A Note to my vert buddys...

[laylow]

This is an update from my flat garden wanted to share with you all...

A NOTE TO ALL MAKE SURE YOU CALIBRATE YOUR PH PEN!!!


Well got to the bottom of the yellowing.... you guessed it my PH pen was .5 out so 5.8 has been 5.3 FUCKMOTHERFUCKINGFUCKER...

anyway got it sorted hopefully it wont hinder the yield to much the damage is def done as last time they was a lot bigger and fuller... ohh well you live and learn

so kids remember check you PH pens every 2 weeks!!!! i done mine only 5 weeks ago and my second one i normally use the battery died so there you have it

 

[Noobian]

 

[laylow]

noobian no disrespect but do you think you can be .1 accurate with that old school type test kit? not saying it doesn't work but my ph is set at 6.2 veg 6.0 first 2 weeks flower and 5.8 till the end... i normally use 2 different model PH pens and calibrate them as soon as one reads a point different to the other... unfortunately the batteries run out on one and i got sloppy with the other and its cost me BIG TIME!!!

 

[875]

why do you run higher than 5.8 in the earlier stages?

 

[PuReKnOwLeDgE]

^^

nitrogen is more available at the 6.0-6.3 range. I shoot for 6.0 in veg and in the stretch, once in flower I drift form 5.5-5.8

OP that shit sucks, have to stay on top of them! As for the drop PH, no way that is coming near my grow.

 

[875]

thanks

 

[Corpsey]

another reason to run organic soil!

 

[MIway]

noobian no disrespect but do you think you can be .1 accurate with that old school type test kit? not saying it doesn't work but my ph is set at 6.2 veg 6.0 first 2 weeks flower and 5.8 till the end... i normally use 2 different model PH pens and calibrate them as soon as one reads a point different to the other... unfortunately the batteries run out on one and i got sloppy with the other and its cost me BIG TIME!!!

You betcha, you can. It's a matter of playing with it for a half hour, or less... to figure out bright, clear yellow (nut on 6.0) & adjusting to slight tinges of green (over 6) and orange/yellow (under 6).

If you can get down the color interpretation, then it is chemically nut the fuck on. White light (flouros or MH) with a white background & getting it to shine through so you can get a pure color reading... +/- .1 with much more confidence than any pH pen/meter... unless you want to spend 1500 or so on a lab grade unit.

I got tired of checking my pens against the old school drops... lol... truthfully, I would end up double checking the pen because they caused me so much trouble.

 

[bobblehead]

I also use a dye kit after pH meter problems.... I think I mentioned it before, LL, and u told me about your meter collection... It's plenty accurate. You don't need an exact pH, it's ok to let it swing a little. Better to be off by .1-.2 than have a meter lie and be off by .5+. Just my $0.02.

 

[DHF]

Always ran Nutra-dip tri-meters in my rez`s with submerged probes that gave real time ppm , ph , and rez temps constantly , and traveled from location to location with tried and true "Bluelab" combo meters that the probes were kept stored in 4.0 calibration solution and re-calibrated every time I checked the girls once a week with 7.0 calibration solution.....

Simple....babyshit.....LL.....my Brutha.....it`s the little things......and you know this.....tighten up Bro....you`re better than this....

Snoop....tell daddy to handle it....

Good luck on the recovery process Bro.....I`m sure it`ll be a quick turnaround......

You da man....

Peace.....Freds..........

 

[Anti]

Always ran Nutra-dip tri-meters in my rez`s with submerged probes that gave real time ppm , ph , and rez temps constantly , and traveled from location to location with tried and true "Bluelab" combo meters that the probes were kept stored in 4.0 calibration solution and re-calibrated every time I checked the girls once a week with 7.0 calibration solution.....

Maybe I'm misunderstanding. But did you have one for each rez or did you have one unit that you took back and forth between ops?

I have no first hand knowledge, but I thought that the advantage to those submerged probe meters (ala the trimeters) was that as long as you didn't let them dry out that you would only rarely have to re-calibrate them. (I'm not saying re-calibrating it once in a while be a smart idea just in case, though.)

While we're on the subject, DHF, what temp do you recommend the rez be at?
Take me to school, please.

 

[DHF]

I ran 3 different setups in almost 16 yrs , and the first 2 were fast hydro hybrid systems .......My Krusty bucket rez`s were kept at 62-64 degrees constant so the bottom bucket temps never rose above 69.....

Anything over 70 degrees is inviting disaster in the form of rootborn pathogens and imminent crop failure..Krusty taught me long ago about using SM-90 for rootrot prevention and also acts as a systemic against root critters as well......and then.....

My ebb and flow buckets in flip rooms didn`t require rez temp monitoring but with the trimeters in place and rez`s sittin on concrete slabs , even in deep summer they never rose over 70 degrees.....

My coco setups before shutdown were again only monitored rez temp wise cuz the meters were there but not needed , and yes Anti......I only calibrated the submerged units once a yr when I tore down and moved to a new location cuz they stayed submerged , but ALWAYS checked each rez every week with my portable Bluelab combo meters to make sure they were within parameters.......

Had 1 trimeter go wonky on me in over 15 yrs and it was a defective probe from the factory , and went bad within a couple weeks of using it thus the need for redundancy checkin shit with another meter every week IME......

Even if you`re runnin DTW like I did on coco or even Blumats , yas needta be aware of rez temps cuz depending on what nutrient regimen yas use , shit can fall outta suspension ,separate , and go sideways with elevated temps in the juice.....

Calmag+ goes bad quick with elevated temps....Have seen it happen repeatedly over the yrs.....shit`ll get cloudy and is best thrown away with the quickness........

Anyways....LL.....here for yas Bro.....Holler....

Peace....Freds..........

 

[Billy Liar]

I don't even check my ph between res change out's.... is that bad???
After reading Heath say, that he just tops up the res with water, then add's more A+B when ec drops to 1.0, to raise back to 1.2... then change out res every 2 weeks.. when doing a change out, just set to 5.2-5.5ph and let res drift to around 7.0ph over the 2 weeks between change outs.. all is fine and ph test solution is fine for this.....
peace
BL

 

[Hundred Gram Oz]

I've been meaning to calibrate my bluelab, think I'll do it now.

 

[megayields]

I need to calibrate my crappy wand again.

 

[mrdizzle]

store your pens in a calibrated solution, so everytime you turn the pen on you know its on point

 

[megayields]

 

[DHF]

HeeHee........Yeah Billy.....natural ph drift up as the plants eat is the ultimate equation , but not many folks know howta achieve it....

You and Heathie make it sound easy...and it is......but....only with large rez`s and top off`s that keep shit from fluctuating on continuous feed setups like yours....

As the plants eat their nutrients the ph rises gradually and allows all macro and micro nutrients to be best absorbed and used by the plants at the proper ph level , thus why I used to set my rez`s at 5.2-4 thereabouts and a week later they were around 6.2-5 with dialed results.....

With coco 5.8 -6.2`s within parameters for all proper absorption due to it`s cation exchange capacity....

ALWAYS keep probe`s stored in calibration solution as Dizzle and I already pointed out....it`s the life of your meter.....with Bluelab units it`s best to store probes in the 4.0 solution , and then calibrate em with the 7.0 solution IME....

Ya`ll take care....DHF.........

 

[mg75]

many big producers rely on the ph drops. usually yellowish means ok to water.

 

[Stonetech]

I don't know about the drops anymore. I started using them to verify what my pen was telling me after a few suspicious readings. They were so far apart (as much as 10 points) that I went out and bought a new pen. Now both pens calibrated + with new batteries are within a point of each other and the drops are about 10 points off.