Light proofing advice for cabinets/wardrobes?

[BuddingGrower]

I have searched but couldn't really find a good thread for cabinet/wardrobe growers and light proofing.

I'm using a modified IKEA wardrobe and I thought that weather stripping would work. However it's white and even with only one bulb turned on there was a noticeable glow through. I have 2x125 W CFLs.

My local hardware store seems to only have white and brown wood color. Unfortunately I couldn't find any black.

Anyone with advice on light proofing a cabinet/wardrobe I would appreciate it.

 

[RubeGoldberg]

use panda film creatively. including covering seams and making an internal lip where the doors meet

 

[FreezerBoy]

Many use bicycle inner tubes. Cut to form a strip and slit open along the length, it's then attached like a piano hinge.

 

[Raedwulf]

Many use bicycle inner tubes. Cut to form a strip and slit open along the length, it's then attached like a piano hinge.

What a neat idea I was just browsing this forum when I spotted the above; thanks FreezerBoy, I shall be implementing this in my own growdrobe asap.

 

[Coco_nuts]

You can buy thick black plastic and duct tape it over light leaks, worked easy peezy for me.

 

[Eol]

Dude I honestly fannied about for so long trying to get my cab light proof. I tried black acoustic foam, 3 different types of draught excluders, and plastic sheeting. You know what I found worked in the end? Black bin bags with a bit of adhesive spray.

If you've got any lying about just give it a try with one, you'll be surprised!

 

[cirog]

I second the panda film approach, worked for me, easy to clean and reflective.

 

[BuddingGrower]

I second the panda film approach, worked for me, easy to clean and reflective.

I actually thought the panda film was a joke by RubeGoldberg because of the picture. I would call it as "Black/White Film," I guess panda film is a brand name or slang.

I think I will try that. Some black and white (overlapped) tape on the wall and door, with a piece of film between so there is still a little slack when the door is fully open. When the doors close it would kind of bow out into the wardrobe. If that makes sense.

I'm not sure about the top and bottoms, or the middle (split between the two doors.)

Top and Bottom might just be a case of making a "P" shape from the film and duct tape. The middle might just be two overlapping pieces of film (which was already suggested I think.)

Hopefully this in combination with some dark (or black) weather stripping will lightproof everything.

I have to wait for some more money now.

 

[someotherguy]

You could also use the vaseline and black silicon caulking trick on the edges that overlap although for the hinged edges FreezerBoy's tip is more durable.

btw, to clarify, what FB is suggesting is that you use an old inner tube, cut to the same length as your doors, then you split the cut piece of innertube so you end up with a rectangular piece of rubber about 3 inchs wide by however long you cut it, hopefully a bit longer than your door.

Anyway, then just staple it in place, one side to the inside wall of the cab and one side down the inside of the door, you could do it on the outside too but it would be no where near as stealthy.

If you look through my 'clone factory' thread linked below you'll see what I did dealing with the gap where the doors meet.

Hope this helps, SOG

 

[MPL]

Painters caulk (don't use silicone, nothing sticks to it if you gotta paint or whatever later) or liquid nails along all the joints.

or

like others have said, panda poly.

 

[Jaymer]

Real quick idk what it's called rope or string caulk and small hard to reach places = good and isn't messy, the doors can get sticky and it's not the best on it's own so use little mylar and velcro also.