How would you do a 4 x 8 flowering area?

[NachoConQueso]

I'm looking for ideas. In my bedroom I'd like to build a flowering space alongside my veg tent. The idea is for it to be totally light proof, use 8" ducting attached to 2 600w (blockbuster hoods), and use those fancy lightproof vents for intakes. Also, I'll be hanging a vortex and can filter 50 inside there. Should I frame out a 4' x 8' space with 2" x 4"s and attach floorboard for the walls? What about my reflectivity, Mylar or just attach some thin panda film? I can afford either way since I'm skipping the grow tent purchase this time around. Finally, my door...how do I make something that is always going to light seal? Clasps w/ foam liner?

 

[RubeGoldberg]

my favorite method is using those 2x2 peices of lumber they sell for like 2-3 bucks each at home depot and then just stapling 2 layers of panda film (white facing out both sides) on the bitch and using an adhesive grow room zipper for the door. Build your room, brace all the joints in the corners and you're good to go pretty much.

2x4s is smarter though because you'll have enough strength to mount more things up top

 

[RubeGoldberg]

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

My flower room is 4x8. I run 2 1000w in SS2 hoods cooled with a 6 inch fan. I exstract through a can 66 with a 745 cfm 8 inch fan. 2 16 inch ocilating fans on the wall. This is in a basement. I line the room with panda film since it looks cleaner than the mylar after a short time. In 32sq.ft. I have to train in such a way that light doesnt need to be reflected since it covers a flat canopy wall to wall.

If not in a basement and no a\c I think the 1000w lights would be a bitch to cool. THe 600's would probably be more appropriate.

I grow in organic living soil fed water and light teas only. I top/supercrop for 4-5 tops per sqft. Never a problem pulling over 1.5 per light with multiple strains.

What I would change. Larger footprint hoods like the xxxl. A more powerful 6 inch or go to an 8 inch fan for cooling the hoods. A pond liner and sump pump are on the agenda to ease watering.

You can check out my build thread or my last grow thread for pics/costruction process.

Hoe that helps
Smiley

 

[Canniwhatsis]

My room is 4.5x9,... access is on one of the short ends tho So in order to be able to access everything in there I've got about 1.5x 6.5 of space I have to leave open as a walk path.

I've got a 400w and 600w hanging in there presently, the 600 is on the far end where I can cover the last 2-3 feet of the room with canopy.

Soon I'll be adding a light mover and reducing to just the 600, either light produces enough light to "Wake up" the plants, it's just a matter of intensity, so the 600 will pass directly overhead every 30 seconds!

Much like GeorgeSmiley I train my plants, then I use SCROG in flower to maintain an even canopy regardless of strain.

+2 to the Panda, and the tarp Zipup's!!!! my "Door" is only about 2' wide, so I have one on either side, when I'm working in flower I roll it up, and secure it with a bungie.

Bad thing about the zippers tho is they're pretty much clear, you need to do some extra work to get light bleed down some. I don't believe that a pinhole of light will cause a plant to go hermie, but with 2 of those zippers covering a 7' length and a 400w MH on the other side there was quite a bit of light in my flowering room during lights out.

 

[RubeGoldberg]

Bad thing about the zippers tho is they're pretty much clear, you need to do some extra work to get light bleed down some. I don't believe that a pinhole of light will cause a plant to go hermie, but with 2 of those zippers covering a 7' length and a 400w MH on the other side there was quite a bit of light in my flowering room during lights out.

I used to build bigger "tents" inside apartments with 4x600 on either side of the tent, light leaks became a concern because there was 1 room in the tent always on. how I got around this was using adhesive velcro and made a long rectangle of panda film that i attached over the zipper seam which I would remove when I needed access.

I would have skipped the zipper all together and just used the velcro but the zipper holds things together a lot better which was needed due to the negative air pressure.

 

[Canniwhatsis]

I used to build bigger "tents" inside apartments with 4x600 on either side of the tent, light leaks became a concern because there was 1 room in the tent always on. how I got around this was using adhesive velcro and made a long rectangle of panda film that i attached over the zipper seam which I would remove when I needed access.

I would have skipped the zipper all together and just used the velcro but the zipper holds things together a lot better which was needed due to the negative air pressure.

Again, +1, same fix I came up with! Simple and effective.

When I first built my new flower area I had an effective "Light" lock because access to flower was only possible thru the old smaller flower cab that I'd left the light barrier up to.

Once I expanded my vege to include the old flower area it got dicy, and I added the velcro flaps!

 

[NachoConQueso]

My flower room is 4x8. I run 2 1000w in SS2 hoods cooled with a 6 inch fan. I exstract through a can 66 with a 745 cfm 8 inch fan. 2 16 inch ocilating fans on the wall. This is in a basement. I line the room with panda film since it looks cleaner than the mylar after a short time. In 32sq.ft. I have to train in such a way that light doesnt need to be reflected since it covers a flat canopy wall to wall.

If not in a basement and no a\c I think the 1000w lights would be a bitch to cool. THe 600's would probably be more appropriate.

I grow in organic living soil fed water and light teas only. I top/supercrop for 4-5 tops per sqft. Never a problem pulling over 1.5 per light with multiple strains.

What I would change. Larger footprint hoods like the xxxl. A more powerful 6 inch or go to an 8 inch fan for cooling the hoods. A pond liner and sump pump are on the agenda to ease watering.

You can check out my build thread or my last grow thread for pics/costruction process.

Hoe that helps
Smiley

Thank you for the replies! It sounds like I'm on the right track. I live in a garden apartment and my ac is amazing. My plants actually get too chilly underneath my light so I'm not too concerned about heat issues. May I recommend the blockbuster 8" reflector? One fits a 4 x 4 space exactly and construction of the hood is awesome. I think I know what to do now as far as my construction is concerned. The only downer is that I don't have any electric saws so I'll have to figure out how to get the 8" circles cut into the floorboard for my ducting.

 

[Canniwhatsis]

8" disk, a pen, a drill, and a fine saw blade. (Fine as in not very thick from tooth to spine)

Could do it with a drill alone,... say use a 3/8" bit, every other 3/8" until you've made a complete circle, (the outside of the hole drilled should be lined up with the outside of the hole your trying to cut!. do NOT center the bit on your 8" diameter line, or you'll wind up with an oversized hole! : )

Once you've drilled all those holes,... go back and drill in between them and clear out the flashing,... or use a small hacksaw blade, your choice. It's ruff but works.

 

[Phaeton]

The budroom is adjacent my veg room also. I use 2x2 frame door (tri-angle the corners) with rubberized canvas cover from the local tent and tarp maker.
Using the canvas on outside only overlap the frame 2" all around. Wood lathe across the top of the door holds straight without wrinkles. 3/4" cup hooks screwed in all around at the edge of the canvas (the canvas is flat-the hook shaft just touches the canvas) keeps it loose against the walls with an easy swipe.
Velcro could be used but I have passive intakes and air pressure holds it tight when the door is shut.
The canvas is wear resistant enought to roll up the door like a window shade, varying the air inlet during lights on, following the ambient's temperature up and down.
Vacuum holds the canvas totally light tight until the last fan stops, fan power slaved to the veg lights. The door does not have to be as light proof with the veg lights off and the cup hooks keep it close enough to catch air in the morning with out being a hindrance during the day.
Rolled up and down for 5 years on a 36" x 76" door frame and no wear to speak of on the canvas. The canvas was in the $100 range 5 years ago for the 48" x 84" piece I had locally cut to size. Edges are seamed.

Ducts in plywood are as above, but a Stanley fine tooth keyhole saw and 1" paddle drill are relative cheap,$10-$15 range total, and make very fine holes limited only by how much care the tech uses. :kitty: