Your attitude sucks. Period.
And it sucks even more because you can't handle someone else's experience/opinion and get hung up on one sentence I quoted from an article.
How many growers use the RED or BLUE beer cups?
- Thread starter R3ZNH3AD
- Start date
- Status
Your attitude sucks. Period.
And it sucks even more because you can't handle someone else's experience/opinion and get hung up on one sentence I quoted from an article.
This is the same kid that not long ago was telling me he only ever grew bagseed before. Hilarious! 
Surely very "experienced".
You know I could probably piss on my plants for fertilizer too and they would likely grow okay but that does not make it a "best practice" method for getting them their Nitrogen. Cannabis I will definitely say has an amazing ability to overcome and survive many adverse conditions they would not normally encounter in nature. Lucky for us really since people like yourself seem to think they are going to re-invent the wheel or something by proving you can do something like exposing the root systems to light and the plant will still grow okay and complete it's life cycle. I never said it will kill the plant or the roots myself if you go back and read my posts so don't get confused by reading other posts and responding to me like I wrote something I didn't. It's not a best practice & it can cause issues there is no question about it and this is well known & very old quality information most experienced growers already know. You can expose them to light but it's really best to not do so and an ounce of prevention is really worth a pound of cure if you love your plants and want the best for them. But anyways, good job on the milkjugs we will make sure to nominate you for grower of the year. You truly inspire us all.
Keep up the good work gingerale really you amaze us with each new post & I'll make sure I save all my milkjugs for ya there sport!
I will leave you with one question to ponder though and you think about this one for a few minutes and maybe it will help you on your journey while growing the good plant.
Why are 99% of all pots, growbags, and any and all various grow containers & grow systems fully opaque and designed to block out light from the roots?
These manufacturers must not have your level of experience growing I guess?
Keep it Grapefruity
Surely very "experienced".
You know I could probably piss on my plants for fertilizer too and they would likely grow okay but that does not make it a "best practice" method for getting them their Nitrogen. Cannabis I will definitely say has an amazing ability to overcome and survive many adverse conditions they would not normally encounter in nature. Lucky for us really since people like yourself seem to think they are going to re-invent the wheel or something by proving you can do something like exposing the root systems to light and the plant will still grow okay and complete it's life cycle. I never said it will kill the plant or the roots myself if you go back and read my posts so don't get confused by reading other posts and responding to me like I wrote something I didn't. It's not a best practice & it can cause issues there is no question about it and this is well known & very old quality information most experienced growers already know. You can expose them to light but it's really best to not do so and an ounce of prevention is really worth a pound of cure if you love your plants and want the best for them. But anyways, good job on the milkjugs we will make sure to nominate you for grower of the year. You truly inspire us all.
Keep up the good work gingerale really you amaze us with each new post & I'll make sure I save all my milkjugs for ya there sport!
I will leave you with one question to ponder though and you think about this one for a few minutes and maybe it will help you on your journey while growing the good plant.
Why are 99% of all pots, growbags, and any and all various grow containers & grow systems fully opaque and designed to block out light from the roots?
These manufacturers must not have your level of experience growing I guess?
Keep it Grapefruity
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dgr
Member
SOTF,
Make sure you drink a lot of grapefruit juice before you fertilize your plants. I've got a lot of respect for you and your contributions but, I'm going to have to take a contrary position here.
I'm sorry to say the support of your position is specious. If there was data on this, why can't anyone produce it? Why are you using containers that are not opaque? Put a solo cup over a 400W and watch it glow. Why are white pots so popular? Why are smart pots or Oregon breather bags so popular? None of those are opaque
The answer to your question is actually pretty simple. Your question itself is assumptive and flawed. Care to explain how they are designed to block light? Many industry containers are not "fully opaque," whatever that means. The container industry is driven by the greenhouse industry. The greenhouse industry needs to maximize their growing season. Black containers provide "free" heat to the root zone. It is as simple as that. And I have no evidence to support that outside of the thousands of recommendations to use root zone heat on clones and seedlings.
As I stated earlier, I'm willing to be wrong. But I don't think I am and no one has provided any evidence to support his position. The only quote provided was 1)Not quoted, 2)Taken out of context in order to support a particular position. Once I find my card reader, we can see some pictures of, wait for it, SWT#4 IBL, and BOG LS seedlings growing in either doubled clear cups or clear cups covered with red cups. Apparently the clear cupped plants should show obvious issues and decreased growth compared to the covered ones.
EDIT: It looked like I was casting stones when I have no idea what the history is. Made it look like I was choosing sides without the history and made me look like an ass. My apologies.
Strainhunter,
You are the one that started with the condescending here. Which is really unfortunate as you obviously have skills and I've enjoyed your island threads.
peace
Make sure you drink a lot of grapefruit juice before you fertilize your plants. I've got a lot of respect for you and your contributions but, I'm going to have to take a contrary position here.
I'm sorry to say the support of your position is specious. If there was data on this, why can't anyone produce it? Why are you using containers that are not opaque? Put a solo cup over a 400W and watch it glow. Why are white pots so popular? Why are smart pots or Oregon breather bags so popular? None of those are opaque
The answer to your question is actually pretty simple. Your question itself is assumptive and flawed. Care to explain how they are designed to block light? Many industry containers are not "fully opaque," whatever that means. The container industry is driven by the greenhouse industry. The greenhouse industry needs to maximize their growing season. Black containers provide "free" heat to the root zone. It is as simple as that. And I have no evidence to support that outside of the thousands of recommendations to use root zone heat on clones and seedlings.
As I stated earlier, I'm willing to be wrong. But I don't think I am and no one has provided any evidence to support his position. The only quote provided was 1)Not quoted, 2)Taken out of context in order to support a particular position. Once I find my card reader, we can see some pictures of, wait for it, SWT#4 IBL, and BOG LS seedlings growing in either doubled clear cups or clear cups covered with red cups. Apparently the clear cupped plants should show obvious issues and decreased growth compared to the covered ones.
EDIT: It looked like I was casting stones when I have no idea what the history is. Made it look like I was choosing sides without the history and made me look like an ass. My apologies.
Strainhunter,
You are the one that started with the condescending here. Which is really unfortunate as you obviously have skills and I've enjoyed your island threads.
peace
Not me. Learned the hard way. Netcups are too cheap to pass up.
dgr, good post man and some good points. As you stated I do try to take the higher 
road whenever possible and if you notice there was no cursing or childish explicit name calling in any of my posts but we can't say the same unfortunately for gingerale I'm afraid and he really does have a mega bad attitude. (it's not the first time)
The issue of "experience" was brought up by him a few times in his post before mine and I responded to it with some facts. Milk jugs for the record are not really clear either. I guess the best example of a clear container used for growing would not be the frosted semi-transparent cups or milkjugs but something like a 2 liter soda bottle or similiar and I know that when people have grown with these they usually make some effort to block out the light from the rootzone. In nature plants do not have their roots exposed to light naturally and while I am no expert like some other members here on soil biology and such I would still venture to say that given the option between a clear & mostly dark container for growing I think it would be in the growers and plants best interest to use the one that blocks out most of the light even if for no reason other than duplicating nature the best you can in your indoor environment. I also know that some beneficial soil & rootzone components may be affected by the presence of light and they will not benefit from algae growth in moist containers that compete with the roots for nutrients.
I really am not sure how any of us even got on this topic and I really don't want to further derail this thread about beer cups because at this point we are off topic (like always)
I will say this though, some people here like to disagree and argue with others like gingerale for instance and unfortunately it does very much turn into a cock measuring match with his cursing & name calling whenever he gets involved in a discussion. He is a noob and he does have a bad attitude, none of us here like it and I don't think it really is a good representation of the general goodwill & positivity here amongst us all that we try to maintain on ICM.
I do use beer cups to start seedlings and yes they block out most of the light, enough that algae growth is not ever a problem which was my primary reason I stated for avoiding "clear" containers. Algae again will affect the root system and will compete for nutrients and can really cause some growth issues if left unchecked this is just common sense and yes all commercial growing containers and such are produced in a manner & color to block out the majority of light and as you said to provide some heat for the rootzone. Growing though in milkjugs as mentioned if you think about it are not really clear anyways and do block out some of the ambient light so in all honesty his proof & evidence here is pretty much null & void because he is NOT growing in clear containers.
Maybe we should post up a thread about this complete with a poll on clear vs dark grow containers that would be a very interesting thread provided gingerale can act like he has some common sense & respect for other members here. Might be quite a learning experience for us all and maybe we can finally get to the bottom of this debate.
Might have to call in spurr & microbeman too I would love to see what they have to say about it.
Much love brother and please do get some pics up of your babies as I am sure many people would love to see them including myself. And I actually just had a swig or two of pink GF juice as you mentioned right before I posted it was absolutely delicious & nutritious! Tastes great with salad toppers.
road whenever possible and if you notice there was no cursing or childish explicit name calling in any of my posts but we can't say the same unfortunately for gingerale I'm afraid and he really does have a mega bad attitude. (it's not the first time)The issue of "experience" was brought up by him a few times in his post before mine and I responded to it with some facts. Milk jugs for the record are not really clear either. I guess the best example of a clear container used for growing would not be the frosted semi-transparent cups or milkjugs but something like a 2 liter soda bottle or similiar and I know that when people have grown with these they usually make some effort to block out the light from the rootzone. In nature plants do not have their roots exposed to light naturally and while I am no expert like some other members here on soil biology and such I would still venture to say that given the option between a clear & mostly dark container for growing I think it would be in the growers and plants best interest to use the one that blocks out most of the light even if for no reason other than duplicating nature the best you can in your indoor environment. I also know that some beneficial soil & rootzone components may be affected by the presence of light and they will not benefit from algae growth in moist containers that compete with the roots for nutrients.
I really am not sure how any of us even got on this topic and I really don't want to further derail this thread about beer cups because at this point we are off topic (like always)
I will say this though, some people here like to disagree and argue with others like gingerale for instance and unfortunately it does very much turn into a cock measuring match with his cursing & name calling whenever he gets involved in a discussion. He is a noob and he does have a bad attitude, none of us here like it and I don't think it really is a good representation of the general goodwill & positivity here amongst us all that we try to maintain on ICM. I do use beer cups to start seedlings and yes they block out most of the light, enough that algae growth is not ever a problem which was my primary reason I stated for avoiding "clear" containers. Algae again will affect the root system and will compete for nutrients and can really cause some growth issues if left unchecked this is just common sense and yes all commercial growing containers and such are produced in a manner & color to block out the majority of light and as you said to provide some heat for the rootzone. Growing though in milkjugs as mentioned if you think about it are not really clear anyways and do block out some of the ambient light so in all honesty his proof & evidence here is pretty much null & void because he is NOT growing in clear containers.
Maybe we should post up a thread about this complete with a poll on clear vs dark grow containers that would be a very interesting thread provided gingerale can act like he has some common sense & respect for other members here. Might be quite a learning experience for us all and maybe we can finally get to the bottom of this debate.
Might have to call in spurr & microbeman too I would love to see what they have to say about it.
Much love brother and please do get some pics up of your babies as I am sure many people would love to see them including myself. And I actually just had a swig or two of pink GF juice as you mentioned right before I posted it was absolutely delicious & nutritious! Tastes great with salad toppers.
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I use all colors of them cups. I use em for seedlings and clones and I've always wanted to do a complete room covered floor and walls with em like that guy did with the shoe hangers. Even a small closet grow of 4X4X8 ft would produce spectacularly I think for a really fast flip over.
As for the effects of light on roots?
Anybody who believes that light has no effect on root and plant growth/health is way confused or misinformed.
I hope this is explained rudimentary enough to allow absorption into some to the thicker minder members.
In most vascular plants, roots are underground structures that anchor the plant and provide a means to absorb the nutrients and water needed for growth of the plant body. New root tips grow continuously throughout the life of the plant and provide the surfaces through which most of the nutrients and water move. Roots are used as storage organs for the food materials produced by the shoots. The major functions of roots, thus, can be summarized simply as absorption, conduction, storage, and anchorage.
As cells are added to the tip by repeated cell divisions, a young root elongates and leaves behind cells that differentiate and become the primary roots of the plant. Four areas of the young root traditionally are recognized, but except for the terminal area, are not distinctly separate. Their descriptive names are only partially correct in describing the activities taking place in each area. These regions, starting at the tip and moving upwards towards the stem, are the root cap, zone of active cell division, zone of cell elongation, and zone of maturation.
The first two are compacted in the first centimeter or less of the axis with the latter two no more than 4–5 centimeters from the tip. Only the root cap and the cell division regions actually move through the soil. After cells start to elongate and mature, no further extension takes place, and the root is stationary for the rest of its life.
.
Root cap
The root cap is a cup-shaped, loosely cemented mass of parenchyma cells that covers the tip of the root. As cells are lost among the soil particles, new ones are added from the meristem behind the cap. The cap is a unique feature of roots; the tip of the stem has no such structure. From its shape, structure, and location, its primary function seems clear: It protects the cells under it from abrasion and assists the root in penetrating the soil. Phenomenal numbers of cap cells are produced to replace those worn off and lost as root tips push through the soil.
The movement is assisted by a slimy substance, mucigel, which is produced by cells of the root cap and epidermis. The mucigel:
Lubricates the roots.
Contains materials that are inhibitory to roots of other species.
Influences ion uptake.
Attracts beneficial soil microorganisms.
Glues soil particles to the roots thereby improving the soil-plant contact and facilitating water movement from the soil into the plant.
Protects the root cells from drying out.
Root cap cells sense light in some as yet unexplained way and direct root growth away from light. The root cap also senses gravity to which roots respond by growing downward, bringing them into contact with the soil, the reservoir of nutrients and water used by plants. The root cap also responds to pressures exerted by the soil particles.
Zone of cell division
An apical meristem lies under and behind the root cap and, like the stem apical meristem, it produces the cells that give rise to the primary body of the plant. Unlike the stem meristem, it is not at the very tip of the root; it lies behind the root cap. Between the area of active division and the cap is an area where cells divide more slowly, the quiescent center. Most cell divisions occur along the edges of this center and give rise to columns of cells arranged parallel to the root axis. The parenchyma cells of the meristem are small, cuboidal, with dense protoplasts devoid of vacuoles and with relatively large nuclei.
The apical meristem of the root organizes to form the three primary meristems: protoderm, which gives rise to the epidermis; procambium, which produces xylem and phloem; and the ground meri-stem, which produces the cortex. Pith, present in most stems and produced from the ground meristem, is absent in most dicot (eudicot) roots, but is found in many monocot roots.
Zone of cell elongation
The cells in this zone stretch and lengthen as small vacuoles within the cytoplasm coalesce and fill with water. One or two large vacuoles occupy almost all of the cell volume in fully elongated cells. Cellular expansion in this zone is responsible for pushing the root cap and apical tip forward through the soil.
Zone of maturation
The elongating cells complete their differentiation into the tissues of the primary body in this zone. It is easily recognized because of the numerous root hairs that extend into the soil as outgrowths of single epidermal cells. They greatly increase the absorptive surface of roots during the growth period when large amounts of water and nutrients are needed. An individual root hair lives for only a day or two, but new ones form constantly nearer the tip as old ones die in the upper part of the zone.
Exposing the roots to excessive light - especially blue or UMV light - kills the end caps and exposes the apical tip, which stops mucigel production and excrement resulting in stunted root/plant growth and inhibited water/nutrient uptake.
As for the effects of light on roots?
Anybody who believes that light has no effect on root and plant growth/health is way confused or misinformed.
I hope this is explained rudimentary enough to allow absorption into some to the thicker minder members.
In most vascular plants, roots are underground structures that anchor the plant and provide a means to absorb the nutrients and water needed for growth of the plant body. New root tips grow continuously throughout the life of the plant and provide the surfaces through which most of the nutrients and water move. Roots are used as storage organs for the food materials produced by the shoots. The major functions of roots, thus, can be summarized simply as absorption, conduction, storage, and anchorage.
As cells are added to the tip by repeated cell divisions, a young root elongates and leaves behind cells that differentiate and become the primary roots of the plant. Four areas of the young root traditionally are recognized, but except for the terminal area, are not distinctly separate. Their descriptive names are only partially correct in describing the activities taking place in each area. These regions, starting at the tip and moving upwards towards the stem, are the root cap, zone of active cell division, zone of cell elongation, and zone of maturation.
The first two are compacted in the first centimeter or less of the axis with the latter two no more than 4–5 centimeters from the tip. Only the root cap and the cell division regions actually move through the soil. After cells start to elongate and mature, no further extension takes place, and the root is stationary for the rest of its life.
.
Root cap
The root cap is a cup-shaped, loosely cemented mass of parenchyma cells that covers the tip of the root. As cells are lost among the soil particles, new ones are added from the meristem behind the cap. The cap is a unique feature of roots; the tip of the stem has no such structure. From its shape, structure, and location, its primary function seems clear: It protects the cells under it from abrasion and assists the root in penetrating the soil. Phenomenal numbers of cap cells are produced to replace those worn off and lost as root tips push through the soil.
The movement is assisted by a slimy substance, mucigel, which is produced by cells of the root cap and epidermis. The mucigel:
Lubricates the roots.
Contains materials that are inhibitory to roots of other species.
Influences ion uptake.
Attracts beneficial soil microorganisms.
Glues soil particles to the roots thereby improving the soil-plant contact and facilitating water movement from the soil into the plant.
Protects the root cells from drying out.
Root cap cells sense light in some as yet unexplained way and direct root growth away from light. The root cap also senses gravity to which roots respond by growing downward, bringing them into contact with the soil, the reservoir of nutrients and water used by plants. The root cap also responds to pressures exerted by the soil particles.
Zone of cell division
An apical meristem lies under and behind the root cap and, like the stem apical meristem, it produces the cells that give rise to the primary body of the plant. Unlike the stem meristem, it is not at the very tip of the root; it lies behind the root cap. Between the area of active division and the cap is an area where cells divide more slowly, the quiescent center. Most cell divisions occur along the edges of this center and give rise to columns of cells arranged parallel to the root axis. The parenchyma cells of the meristem are small, cuboidal, with dense protoplasts devoid of vacuoles and with relatively large nuclei.
The apical meristem of the root organizes to form the three primary meristems: protoderm, which gives rise to the epidermis; procambium, which produces xylem and phloem; and the ground meri-stem, which produces the cortex. Pith, present in most stems and produced from the ground meristem, is absent in most dicot (eudicot) roots, but is found in many monocot roots.
Zone of cell elongation
The cells in this zone stretch and lengthen as small vacuoles within the cytoplasm coalesce and fill with water. One or two large vacuoles occupy almost all of the cell volume in fully elongated cells. Cellular expansion in this zone is responsible for pushing the root cap and apical tip forward through the soil.
Zone of maturation
The elongating cells complete their differentiation into the tissues of the primary body in this zone. It is easily recognized because of the numerous root hairs that extend into the soil as outgrowths of single epidermal cells. They greatly increase the absorptive surface of roots during the growth period when large amounts of water and nutrients are needed. An individual root hair lives for only a day or two, but new ones form constantly nearer the tip as old ones die in the upper part of the zone.
Exposing the roots to excessive light - especially blue or UMV light - kills the end caps and exposes the apical tip, which stops mucigel production and excrement resulting in stunted root/plant growth and inhibited water/nutrient uptake.
ijim
Member
Solo knows whats going on. Just like baggies with the stand up baggie and ziploc. Stoners built that company.
Hey man it's all about sharing the knowledge. There aren't any schools for this shit, so those with the info gotta spread it around some.
Discussions with differing thoughts and beliefs, such as this one, are what provoke us to learn and share.
Discussions with differing thoughts and beliefs, such as this one, are what provoke us to learn and share.
In their defense HPS light would not contain much blue spectrum and they are not growing in clear containers so gingerale's evidence to begin with was fundamentally flawed and does not really apply to the discussion. Sunlight however and grows with light rich in blue would likely be more affected. Best policy like I said to begin with is to keep it natural, and keep those roots dark!
We are definitely here to learn & we are all on the same team. Much love & peace.
Gotta goto wally world now and buy some more beer cups as I'm fresh out too much GF juice drinking and all
We are definitely here to learn & we are all on the same team. Much love & peace.
Gotta goto wally world now and buy some more beer cups as I'm fresh out too much GF juice drinking and all
First Transplant-KISS method
First Transplant-KISS method
This has been posted before...but, time for refresher course....
...
16 oz clear cups (cut up one side & half way across the bottom)
...inside 18 oz solid color cups (with drain holes).. Makes transplants quick...no stress.
...
..
..
..
First Transplant-KISS method
This has been posted before...but, time for refresher course....
...16 oz clear cups (cut up one side & half way across the bottom)
...inside 18 oz solid color cups (with drain holes).. Makes transplants quick...no stress.
peterjoseph88
Member
Okay, I was gonna save this for a new topic but I think this is a really good application of the knowledge.
Those clear cups that a lot of people don't use? They do have an application that I stumbled onto a few months ago...
What happened was: A patient wanted some clones ready for a certain date and I had forgotten until late into the evening. So I went to cut em but all my cloners were either out on loan or were full. So I decided to just cut em and stick em in vermiculite. Except I was out of colored cups and nearly out of vermiculite too. So I gathered up a few of my kids empty espresso cups, cleaned em and filled em each half full of vermiculite.
(By the way I'll show you all the easiest way to put holes in your cups too. It's about 5 seconds per cups.)
.
.
So anyway I put a cutting in each cup but since the cups were only half full I used slightly longer cuts and they were mostly down inside the cups.
.
.
I set em inside colored cups when I got em and after about 5 or 6 days they had roots so I delivered the ones to the patient but I had 2 left over. I transplanted em into 1 gallon pots since they were Bubba Kush and had a lot of potential going outside when the time is right.
Anyway I kept noticing brand new white roots above high the soil level. Of course I figured it was settle at first but after 3 or 4 days the damn pots were heaped over with dirt and new roots continued to grow out of the stem and into the dirt.
I got to paying more attention trying to figure out "why" those 2 plants wouldn't stop growing roots.
So I duplicated the entire process to see if it would repeat. I used everything exactly identical to the first time.
Sure enough they done the same thing, fuckin roots growing above dirt.
.
.
So I put them into deeper pots but only about 2/3 full, leaving room to add more dirt.
As long as I continued adding soil and covering the new roots they continued to grow. They grew roots up the stem and past 6 sets of limb nodes, I had to cut limbs to keep adding soil until the tallest pot I have was full.
Once I stopped adding dirt, both plants stopped growing roots up the stems.
Now I know that if you bury the stem it will usually start roots. But these roots were growing an inch or more "above the soil".
.
.
Now from my observation this is what happens:
The stem that's below the lip of the cup is being kept at a perfect humidity to penetrate the skin and encourage root growth. Since I also set the clear cups into colored cups, there is very little light almost as if that section of the stem were buried.
But once it's exposed to light for very long they stop growing roots.
Those clear cups that a lot of people don't use? They do have an application that I stumbled onto a few months ago...
What happened was: A patient wanted some clones ready for a certain date and I had forgotten until late into the evening. So I went to cut em but all my cloners were either out on loan or were full. So I decided to just cut em and stick em in vermiculite. Except I was out of colored cups and nearly out of vermiculite too. So I gathered up a few of my kids empty espresso cups, cleaned em and filled em each half full of vermiculite.
(By the way I'll show you all the easiest way to put holes in your cups too. It's about 5 seconds per cups.)
.
.
So anyway I put a cutting in each cup but since the cups were only half full I used slightly longer cuts and they were mostly down inside the cups.
.
.
I set em inside colored cups when I got em and after about 5 or 6 days they had roots so I delivered the ones to the patient but I had 2 left over. I transplanted em into 1 gallon pots since they were Bubba Kush and had a lot of potential going outside when the time is right.
Anyway I kept noticing brand new white roots above high the soil level. Of course I figured it was settle at first but after 3 or 4 days the damn pots were heaped over with dirt and new roots continued to grow out of the stem and into the dirt.
I got to paying more attention trying to figure out "why" those 2 plants wouldn't stop growing roots.
So I duplicated the entire process to see if it would repeat. I used everything exactly identical to the first time.
Sure enough they done the same thing, fuckin roots growing above dirt.
.
.
So I put them into deeper pots but only about 2/3 full, leaving room to add more dirt.
As long as I continued adding soil and covering the new roots they continued to grow. They grew roots up the stem and past 6 sets of limb nodes, I had to cut limbs to keep adding soil until the tallest pot I have was full.
Once I stopped adding dirt, both plants stopped growing roots up the stems.
Now I know that if you bury the stem it will usually start roots. But these roots were growing an inch or more "above the soil".
.
.
Now from my observation this is what happens:
The stem that's below the lip of the cup is being kept at a perfect humidity to penetrate the skin and encourage root growth. Since I also set the clear cups into colored cups, there is very little light almost as if that section of the stem were buried.
But once it's exposed to light for very long they stop growing roots.
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Wow great pics & quality post, +K
Thanks...
I suppose the easiest way to understand what light does to roots is to learn air-cloning.
Just wrap the limb with wet gauze and a dark plastic wrap for a few days. Speed it up by applying a drop of cloning gel, but unwrap it carefully in a few days to check for roots.
If not re-moisten the gauze, re-wrap and wait another couple days.
If there's roots just snip it off and plant it.
100% survival every time and the clones are never stunted in the process.
My fingers are just too stiff and I can't see well enough to do that tiny work for little cuts.
But if I have the chance to get 1 cutting, 1 time from a good strain that I want, I'll take an air-clone to guarantee it survives.
#1 I primarily grow bagseed, sure. I've gotten a number of good phenos from bagseed. I bet it would blow your mind to learn that some of the best commercial strains available today originally came from....drumroll please....BAGSEED! I'm not concerned about impressing you, I'm after sales. I can and have sold Mexican sativa bagseed for $100/qtr when grown out properly. (It's not the appearance that sells it...it's the smell!) Now I grow Neville's Haze because it's better all around, but if you think bagseed is useless then you're sadly misinformed.
#2 Kid? I'm 28 years old....if that matters. Nice ad hominem attack, Mr. "I don't stoop to the level of name calling like bad ole Gingerale!"
Really? If this is sooo well "known" then you should have no problem pointing to study after study backing up your assertions...right? Don't make an "appeal to authority" because that is another fallacy in your reasoning. The burden of proof is on YOU, not me, because it is YOU making the false and unfounded assertion.
Back in the day everyone "knew" that the earth was flat too but that didn't make them correct. Back in the day I could find all kinds of authorities to quote who supported this view but that doesn't make me correct.
As has already been pointed out...they're NOT.
- Status
