Chronic Powdery Mildew Problems

[pinecone]

So even though it is still a free country and folks can choose what they want to eat or smoke, to recommend an effective "organic" cure to an already infected crop is labor intensive, spray intensive, ineffective and insane.

OP asked for preventative measures. I provided him a link to some non-toxic options. Just wondering if you have tried lactobacillus on PM to know whether it is effective or not? Have you tried liquid silca as a preventative measure? I haven't as I don't have to contend with PM, but I trust the posters I referenced on this one.

BTW - I'm not sure if you read OPs original post. It seems he is fine in veg, but once plants get into flower and he stops spraying with Senenade (lactobacilus) he gets PM. Thus, he doesn't have an "already infected crop".

I just finished my third grow with some sub average results.

I also spray from veg to first few weeks of flowering with Serenade, which works great, but of once I stop the PM comes back with a vengeance.

And with what? Any other preventative measures that I can do?

 

[Darkstarlive]

I fought PM for over a year in Veg and Flower. I used JMS stylet oil every 3 weeks but it would come right back. I used Eagle20 once in veg and it was gone for good, I gave a second application for good measure but probably didn't need it.

I'd have concerns too if it was used frequently during a grow but one treatment in early veg and you'll be free of this dreaded fungus. Understandably, you still have to keep your enviroment in order. I had my temps and RH right where they are supposed to be and below and I still couldn't rid myself of it then I got Eagle20 and I've been free and clear since.

Do it and don't look back. You have enough to do to have a successful grow you don't need PM to fuck things up.

Best of luck...

 

[grapeman]

OP asked for preventative measures. I provided him a link to some non-toxic options. Just wondering if you have tried lactobacillus on PM to know whether it is effective or not? Have you tried liquid silca as a preventative measure? I haven't as I don't have to contend with PM, but I trust the posters I referenced on this one.

BTW - I'm not sure if you read OPs original post. It seems he is fine in veg, but once plants get into flower and he stops spraying with Senenade (lactobacilus) he gets PM. Thus, he doesn't have an "already infected crop".

Lactobacillus, on an effectiveness scale of 1 thru 10, 10 being most effective would be a 1. It's a bit of a folk lore.

I would contend that the veg area is cleaner then the flower area and the sheer act of spraying anything in the veg room is enough to keep the plants clean.

35 years ago, before there were specifically targeted products for PM, the commercial farmers solution was water and spreader with a bit of wettable sulfur. The water would kill the mildew on contact, thus the importance of using a good spreader for complete wetting. The wettable sulfur would have some effect IF the temps got over @95 degrees, due to the sulfur fuming action.

So my take is that the flower room is harboring a continuous source of infection. So, until that source is rooted out and addressed, the OP's best hope IMHO, is to use a legitimate fungicide and fore go the side shows.

Sorry if my first post came across a bit strong, but I have been combating PM for over 40 years and have come to understand that hope & change solutions are no solutions at all for the problem.

 

[BudGood]

To be quite honest, I would take grapemans advice (who has been battling PM for over 40 years) over pinecones (who just admitted he has no real-world experience with PM). I trust experience, not second hand info.

 

[gaiusmarius]

hm this is disapointing, i have been reading up on these natural remedies and was slowly getting convinced i'd rid myself of the pm in my veg space through natural remedies. my plan was backing soda spray and then horsetail tea for silica and nettle fpe for further strengthening. just did the stinky nettle spray today. will be interesting to see if it comes back. only 1 or 2 lowest leaves are effected so far.

i just took clones for a new run, so now would be the perfect time to use some thing heavy duty and then use the horsetail tea and nettle fpe as a preventative. i do hate the sight of that stuff on my plants, but on the other hand i don't liike to use more chemicals then i really have to.

does anyone know of a product equal to or better then eagle 20 sold in Switzerland?

 

[BudGood]

I believe you can get it through the mail gaius. Ebay is your friend.

EDIT: Went and looked, found a seller on Ebay who will ship to Switzerland. 52.99 for the pint, and 33 dollars for International shipping. You'll never need to buy any more, and will be able to hook up any of your local grower friends with some if they need it. Friends actually gave me the Eagle20 I have in my pesticide/fungicide shelf.

http://cgi.ebay.com/EAGLE-20EW-Fungicide-Systhane-Roses-Fruits-Pint-16oz-/370501089926?pt=Fertilizer_Soil_Amendments&hash=item564395fa86#shId

I just put in a postal code for Bern, I think.

Hope that helps!

2nd edit: Just realized, this stuff is made in Italy. Maybe you can find a seller closer to you?

 

[MIway]

does anyone know of a product equal to or better then eagle 20 sold in Switzerland?

I can't really say locally, where & how to get it, but you might want to look into a product called Amistar... which is the European equivalent to Heritage... azoxystrobin is the main active ingredient.

Heritage has a higher effectiveness on PM as opposed to Eagle 20. Be safe.

 

[FreezerBoy]

To be quite honest, I would take grapemans advice (who has been battling PM for over 40 years) over pinecones (who just admitted he has no real-world experience with PM). I trust experience, not second hand info.

Fighting it for over 40 years and he's still got it? I got rid of it in 10 minutes.

 

[MIway]

Here is something that I found pretty darn interesting...

Guy was in here talking about killing his mold at end of week 5, flower... basically screwed for options. He asked me about a product called Kagen water... did some research... Kangen Water... or rather a form of ionized water that produces both very alkaline & very acidic waters.

Based on preliminary searches... bacteria & mold apparently die at 2.5 & lower acidity ranges... with normal water. There is apparently a university study showing something to this effect... can't find it yet. Anyway, got me thinking about that PMWash stuff... frequency enhanced water... sure as shit, it measures 2.4 pH.


Anyone heard of 2.5 acidic water & treating for mold before?

 

[gaiusmarius]

thanks for the info about Amistar, will see if i can source it. i don't normally like to use chemicals, but i hate to throw away great genetics even more, so if i can treat it once and for all with chemicals on mums, i'll risk it, knowing i'm not even taking new clones for a month at least and then they still have their whole cycle ahead to disperse the chems.

seems to me ph 2.5 water would burn the plant, but this would be cool and very convenient if it really works. much better then using hard core chemicals. who's gonna try it out first?

 

[greenmatter]

Here is something that I found pretty darn interesting...

Guy was in here talking about killing his mold at end of week 5, flower... basically screwed for options. He asked me about a product called Kagen water... did some research... Kangen Water... or rather a form of ionized water that produces both very alkaline & very acidic waters.

Based on preliminary searches... bacteria & mold apparently die at 2.5 & lower acidity ranges... with normal water. There is apparently a university study showing something to this effect... can't find it yet. Anyway, got me thinking about that PMWash stuff... frequency enhanced water... sure as shit, it measures 2.4 pH.


Anyone heard of 2.5 acidic water & treating for mold before?

it would probably do about the same thing as baking soda or potassium bicarbonate. it will keep it in check for as long as you keep spraying every few days but it won't "cure" the problem. it is one more option that could be used that far into flowering FWIW

 

[gaiusmarius]

wow i'm having a crazy hard time finding a web site that sells amistar, finding lots of very interesting info about it being a kind of fungus that does no harm but stops the pm from being able to live. now i'm really interested to get some of this stuff. syngenta web site had plenty of infos about it, but no way to order or buy.

 

[dgr]

Sorry if my first post came across a bit strong, but I have been combating PM for over 40 years and have come to understand that hope & change solutions are no solutions at all for the problem.

Stamp out the internet errors as you find them.

Too funny Freezerboy. You should write a paper on how to wipe out PM in vineyards.

edit: misread

 

[Guest3498]

Fighting it for over 40 years and he's still got it? I got rid of it in 10 minutes.

Much easier decision to make when your grow fits in a shoebox

 

[FreezerBoy]

Niether the OP or I am: growing grapes, growing in a vineyard, growing outdoors, growing in a shoebox or growing irreplaceable strains. Perhaps if we stick to the topic, instead of creating scenarios unrelated to the subject at hand, we can help the guy out.

 

[Guest3498]

Frankly, freezerboy, with eagle working as well as it does with a single application your advice is bad... Hence the sarcasm. Do you consider setting his grow back months needlessly helping him out when there is a better solution that has been well documented? What genetics you are working with doesn't have anything to do with it really... it's about using the best tool/method for the job.

a (likely) single foliar application vs. scrapping everything and starting over from scratch

No brainer...

 

[BudGood]

Not trying to argue with you freezerboy (don't tase, er, ban me bro!), but I would rather inform the OP of the absolute BEST method of eradicating PM. I feel that IS helping him, in the best way possible. He might not have rare cuts, but even so, teaching someone the once and done method just seems better, IMO.

I only brought up the rare genetics thing because with the medical scene, lots of people now have easy access to extremely awesome genetics, he might be a med patient that picked up infected clones, or he might in the future (I don't think he specified if he was a patient, unless you know something I don't?). Better to have the well-documented known PM killer on ones side, rather than stuff that sometimes works or doesn't at all.

Trashing everything? I'm sure you did get rid of it in 10 minutes, that's great. MANY of us grow rare clone-only's, but even still, I sure doubt anyone with something they like & want to keep around, regardless of whether it's the White or a freebie White Widow, wants to just trash it as the solution. Seems like giving up without a fight, to me anyway...

When I referenced grapeman, I was simply pointing out he has REAL WORLD experience with PM and fungicides, whereas pinecone has not. grapeman brought up some valid points, especially about the flowering area likely being infected. He's been battling it for years, how do you know he isn't #winning?? From his posts it sure seems to me like he knows what works and what doesn't. Therefore, I would trust his advice before someone elses who has never fought PM even ONCE! No offense pinecone, just calling it as I see it.

VADO!

Have a good day everyone!

 

[grapeman]

hm this is disapointing, i have been reading up on these natural remedies and was slowly getting convinced i'd rid myself of the pm in my veg space through natural remedies. my plan was backing soda spray and then horsetail tea for silica and nettle fpe for further strengthening. just did the stinky nettle spray today. will be interesting to see if it comes back. only 1 or 2 lowest leaves are effected so far.

i just took clones for a new run, so now would be the perfect time to use some thing heavy duty and then use the horsetail tea and nettle fpe as a preventative. i do hate the sight of that stuff on my plants, but on the other hand i don't liike to use more chemicals then i really have to.

does anyone know of a product equal to or better then eagle 20 sold in Switzerland?

You are right. good practices go a long way in preventing mildew. I have not had a need to spray for mildew for about 2 years. But I do foliar feed quit a bit (2 x a week) and always insist on complete coverage, which coupled with a clean room, keeps the plants happy and clean. Strong healthy plant tissue is more resistant to infection.

But when I do have an infection, I reach straight for a real fungicide. These bacteria fungicides are great when you have an infection within days of harvest on fruits & such, since you can't wait for the mandated label requirements of 14 days or so to harvest.

I wouldn't risk my crop on it, but would use it if that's all I had, it is real close to harvest or if I had a small operation where I didn't mind applying and reapplying all the time.

 

[THC123]

@ OP


just clean and disinfect your whole room and treat the plants preventively and every week untill flowering begins


i use bayfidan from bayer and after using it once the Pm is gone till next season(outdoors)


PM likes hot and DRY , it thrives when the RH is very low

 

[BudGood]

OP, if you can afford to get some, Physan20 is awesome for cleaning/disinfecting, and it won't burn the shit out of your lungs like bleach can. I love the stuff, I keep a dedicated labeled spray bottle mixed and handy at all times.