Is This TMV?

[RetroGrow]

Don't think it's TMV, but it is some disease.TMV won't kill your plants. It could be a spore based disease, ie, spores in your environment, something I have been attempting to fight.
The only thing that helps me is aspirin.
Whatever it is, aspirin will boost the plants natural immune system to fight it off. If it's a spore based disease, your room is pretty much history, as I have found out. Without aspirin, plants die after yellowing, wilting, and getting spots. With aspirin, they survive.

 

[iSMOKE.KUSH]

if it's fungal, try ridomil. shit kills root rot and fungus spores.

 

[CrzKat]

Don't think it's TMV, but it is some disease.TMV won't kill your plants. It could be a spore based disease, ie, spores in your environment, something I have been attempting to fight.
The only thing that helps me is aspirin.
Whatever it is, aspirin will boost the plants natural immune system to fight it off. If it's a spore based disease, your room is pretty much history, as I have found out. Without aspirin, plants die after yellowing, wilting, and getting spots. With aspirin, they survive.

I just started trying the aspirin and will continue it with new grows, but it doesn't seem to help if you don't start it from rooting on.
I also considered the spores thing. I plan on constructing plastic tents within my bloom space to isolate the plants from the existing walls and ceiling (which I'll repaint with Kilz). Funny that it showed up all of a sudden after having grown in the same space for many years...

 

[Oliver Pantsoff]

No off gassing

No off gassing

OP I would be checking all your hoses if you haven't already, I smell off gassing.

Crush- plants meant for hydro? Seriously? Either you can grow in hydro or you can't, the plant makes more difference. Putting them in dirt with unknown parameters is not a good way to test anything. Hydro really is very simple once you understand what your reservoir is telling you, to bad you scrapped the hydro. I grow in organic soil and hydro and nothing touches the rate of growth I get form RDWC.

I cannot think of one clone I have ever heard of that "works" well in hydro. A plant is a plant is a plant, either you can care for its needs or not. Sounds like you tryed a flood table with multiple strains, big no no, mono crops are the way to go. No disresepct Crush but your advice pretty much sucks every where I have seen it, you have alot more reading and experimenting to do before you should be giving tips.

Trust me bro, it's not an off gassing problemo...It's a funky diesease that he has that is not going anywhere w/o a good cleaning & new genes...Every picture that he has supplied, I've seen in peoples rooms. I've seen with my own eyes how diluting milk with a light spray on the leaves make the problem go away..It's NOTHING that the grower himself is doing....It's the diesease..It will ruin every grow until it has completely been eradicated. This shit lives in a dry form for many many yrs..

OP

 

[Stress_test]

I hope you're right! But if Ca/Mag was the problem why did it wait for years to rear it's head. I hadn't changed my feeding regimen. I added Ca/Mag to the mix at the start of the problem, but it changed nothing... Ph is set at 5.5 on res changes, and rises over the two week interval to around 6.1 to 6.2. I normally only correct Ph at res changes....

Temps were up around 80 air/ 70 water when I was running CO2, but I cut that off and lowered temps to 72 air and 70 water after I started having problems.....Seems like the harder I pushed the girls the worse they did... The room is climate controlled, it stays where I set it, unless there's a power failure, which hasn't happened lately.

Problem usually doesn't appear until about 2 weeks after plants are moved to 12/12.

Anyway, everything that wasn't in bloom has been transferred to soil and moved outside. New clones from another source are being rooted and will be vegged out in entirely different space. We'll see what happens. If they do better in soil then I'll re-think the problem and look harder at the res. If the new clones do well on my regular hydro routine in a different space, I'll go back to thinking virus.

Okay here is a potential issue: Make ONE change... See what happens. If it doesn't fix the issue then undo the change. Go back to previous conditions.
Since we know that CO2 helps plants and helps eliminate pests, it's a good idea to get em back on CO2.
Look someplace else...

The only way to narrow the scope of potential problems is to make a change and wait to see the results. If you treat for everything then you have NO IDEA what you changed that made any differences and usually create even more issues, (or compound the original problem)...

 

[RubeGoldberg]

For whoever it was that was suggesting root aphids, I sacrificed on of my bloomers, pulled it apart and exposed the roots. I examined them with a 30X microscope, and didn't find any bugs.....

hi there mr brown as fuck roots

Peroxide flush that shit

150ml per gallon with 3%
30ml per gallon with 15%
15ml per gallon with 35%


Run it through for 24 hours, then go back to light nutes,

Ridomil as well isn't a bad idea.


double check that your PH reading gear is working correctly against some litmus paper (not just your buffering solution)



Basically,
- your nutrients are fine,
- chances are 99% that you have no fucking virus, but people on this forum will still discuss it in order to blow smoke out their ass.


Treat it for sick roots as well as get the PH in gear to make sure there is no lockout and you'll fix this shit.

 

[CrzKat]

The only way to narrow the scope of potential problems is to make a change and wait to see the results. If you treat for everything then you have NO IDEA what you changed that made any differences and usually create even more issues, (or compound the original problem)...

My friend, I have been trying that for the past 5 months and I've gotten nowhere. I'm still working at that, although now I think that it's time to change the genetics. Hence, new clones from an unrelated grow which will be grown the same way I've been doing it for years, although in a new space until their ready to bloom. Old genetics have been put in pots and I'll let them finish outside away from the grow room. I believe I've addressed all the other issues in my previous tries. So now it's just wait and see.....

 

[CrzKat]

hi there mr pythium!!!!

Peroxide flush that shit

150ml per gallon with 3%
30ml per gallon with 15%
15ml per gallon with 35%


Run it through for 24 hours, then go back to light nutes,

Ridomil as well isn't a bad idea.

I've been doing that although not in the dosage you suggest.... following the directions on the bottle, I've been using 3ml per gallon of 29% every 4 days. Have also been using clorox at 1 tsp in 40 gal. every other day and hygrozyme at 5ml per gallon. Discounted Pythium as the cause because all that had no great effect. Besides when I've run into root rot in the past, it usually causes crazy Ph fluctuations, and I'm not seeing that.

Are you saying that you see Pythium in those root pics? I hope your right! Be a lot easier to shed that than the damned virus. Please explain your line of thinking, as I'm hoping that you're on the money.

 

[CrzKat]

hi there mr brown as fuck roots

Peroxide flush that shit

150ml per gallon with 3%
30ml per gallon with 15%
15ml per gallon with 35%


Run it through for 24 hours, then go back to light nutes,

Ridomil as well isn't a bad idea.


double check that your PH reading gear is working correctly against some litmus paper (not just your buffering solution)



Basically,
- your nutrients are fine,
- chances are 99% that you have no fucking virus, but people on this forum will still discuss it in order to blow smoke out their ass.


Treat it for sick roots as well as get the PH in gear to make sure there is no lockout and you'll fix this shit.

I'm willing to give this a shot on the plants still in the bloom room.

Are you saying that I should multiply my H2O2 dosage by 5X from 3ml to 15ml/gal?

When you say run it through for 24 hours do you mean I should flood my trays for 24 hours straight and then dump and refill with new nutes at low strength and go back to my normal once a day flood?

Where can I find Ridomil? Is it Ridomil gold? I checked my usual sources, but they don't carry it.

If this works dude, I'll rent you a hooker.

 

[iSMOKE.KUSH]

I'm willing to give this a shot on the plants still in the bloom room.

Are you saying that I should multiply my H2O2 dosage by 5X from 3ml to 15ml/gal?

When you say run it through for 24 hours do you mean I should flood my trays for 24 hours straight and then dump and refill with new nutes at low strength and go back to my normal once a day flood?

Where can I find Ridomil? Is it Ridomil gold? I checked my usual sources, but they don't carry it.

If this works dude, I'll rent you a hooker.

ridomil gold, yes..you can get it on ebay. not sure why more of you rdwc guys don't use this shit as a preemptive against root rot. it's the eagel20/floramite of root rot.

as for the hooker, if you read above his post. you'll see that i'm the one that suggested ridomil, so if it works...i'd like my hooker.

 

[CrzKat]

ridomil gold, yes..you can get it on ebay. not sure why more of you rdwc guys don't use this shit as a preemptive against root rot. it's the eagel20/floramite of root rot.

as for the hooker, if you read above his post. you'll see that i'm the one that suggested ridomil, so if it works...i'd like my hooker.

This stuff is pricey at $125 a pint. Although, considering what all this down time has cost it's a no brainer. What is the dosage?

By the way, I don't grow RDWC, just old-fashioned flood and drain in rockwool.

Please let this work. if it does, I'll get in touch to find out where to send the bimbo.........

 

[RetroGrow]

I just started trying the aspirin and will continue it with new grows, but it doesn't seem to help if you don't start it from rooting on.
I also considered the spores thing. I plan on constructing plastic tents within my bloom space to isolate the plants from the existing walls and ceiling (which I'll repaint with Kilz). Funny that it showed up all of a sudden after having grown in the same space for many years...

Once a large number of spores are released, it's close to impossible to get rid of them. There are billions. They are microscopic, and they get into the air ducts and everywhere. My plants get sick at the two week mark no matter how much I clean and sterilize everything.
High temperatures will kill them, but it has to be over 110 degrees from what I've read. Haven't figured how to get my room to that temperature.

 

[Crush]

Anyway, everything that wasn't in bloom has been transferred to soil and moved outside. New clones from another source are being rooted and will be vegged out in entirely different space. We'll see what happens. If they do better in soil then I'll re-think the problem and look harder at the res. If the new clones do well on my regular hydro routine in a different space, I'll go back to thinking virus.

Yeah that's exactly what I would do. Just as a first step of troubleshooting what the problem is.

I noticed you mentioned well water.. I actually brew beer.. and what the beer brewers do often is send a sample of their water in for a lab analysis because the base water heavily effects the final taste of the beer. It will tell you everything in your water so you can know exactly what's in your well water and maybe you can use that to connect the dots? It's under $16.50 to get your water tested. Just letting you know in case you're interested.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/how-send-water-ward-labs-test-129581/

 

[CrzKat]

OK, I added H2O2 at 15ml/gal to my res and turned the bitchon to run for 24 hours. Also ordered Rimodil. Can anyone tell me what the dose rate is per gallon in hydro? Everything I saw on their site give per acre rates. We'll see if this works.

 

[iSMOKE.KUSH]

5 drops per gallon is the consensus i believe...

 

[CrzKat]

Thanks!

Thanks!

5 drops per gallon is the consensus i believe...

Thanks!

And thanks to everybody who offered advice. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[RubeGoldberg]

wait until you get your ridomil, there are different grades with different application rates

 

[RubeGoldberg]

also what are temps usually sitting at in your reservoir? sorry if this was already covered, but it might be useful in stopping this issue from popping back up again

 

[CrzKat]

also what are temps usually sitting at in your reservoir? sorry if this was already covered, but it might be useful in stopping this issue from popping back up again

69-70 F

 

[CoCo_Crazy]

Those roots definitely didnt look very happy, you might be underdosing the h2o2 as Rubes schedule suggests.

Maby you should get fresh medium, fresh genetics and start running feed to waste?