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Nute or ph problem ?

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
give it time....

mine have that too...look at the bottom leaves...all shriveld up...aslong as your new growt is not affected and looks green and lush you are golden...just the plant adjusting to the regime....

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edited a pic

ohw and this is a light mix used on the first pic
 

ProfGerbik

Active member
Did you read the post explaining the problem and look at the pictures?

Cause I did and from looking at the pictures I see some beautiful looking plants that are 19 days old from seed and are ready to start receiving some nutrients.
The grower is doing a fantastic job with everything else so far. Give em some food and keep the Ph between 6 and 7. Roots grow better during veg if the Ph is on the lower side of 6...

ok well i read it also, did you read any of my previous post because i mentioned that was most likely the problem already. im glad you can read. thanks for clarifying that.

most soil lose their potential after being drained, so its necessary to start adding nutes after a couple weeks.

i never said he was doing anything wrong? sorry for trying to cover many bases regardless of what he says maybe he missed something along the way, that is why i ask directly.

soil should never be higher than 6.5, 6.3-6.5 is a much safer range, 7 could be dangerous and most likely will be.

personally thats probably your problem using 5.5 water, around here ive never been told by anyone who grows killer plants in soil to test the runoff unless you start to see some major problems but thats probably why the plant is showing signs of nitrogen lock out seeing the water was 5.5.
 

ProfGerbik

Active member
Hi guys, sorry for the big delay, been so busy with work these days.

To answer your questions:
soil is biobizz, it says on it the ph is 6.6 ( I never measured soil pH)
I use a digital pH tester to test the water, it seems ok but I will recalibrate it today
I use tap water, and I let it stay AT LEAST 24 hours. Most of the times it's a couple of days, could that be a problem?

Thanks for your help!

your water if fine the longer its left out the better it gets but if you arent filtering it before hand it still being tap that could be a problem, just wanted to know more specifically. if you arent filtering it go out and spend a couple bucks on a brita filter for your faucet or a brita pitcher. cheap and works great. i know i could never use straight tap even if i left it out its just way too hard and gross, i cant even drink it without it being filtered you can just look and see how much crap is in it.

so i filter it, then let it sit for 24 hours or more.

if your tester is new i wouldnt worry about recalibrating for a while, just use the solution you use to adjust your tester and let it keep it moist, it helps keeps it calibrated a lot longer instead of letting the tester completely dry out, which can cause wrong readings if you arent patient enough.

if your soil is like my FFOF, its good to let the plant feed off the soil for about a 2-3 weeks then you can start feeding it regularly. probably someone covered that but just saying. feeding them in enriched soil earlier on can cause lock out problems or burn.

no problem, love to help any way i can. sorry i post a lot i just hate to see any plant problems.
 

ProfGerbik

Active member
Ok, for most of the babies, the first set of leaves (right above cotyledons) is now yellow. Should I still worry about N deficiency?
Also notice the brown spots in the pics

http://postimage.org/image/288k4ion8/
http://img42.imageshack.us/i/22062011753.jpg/
http://img26.imageshack.us/i/22062011754.jpg/
http://img231.imageshack.us/i/22062011755.jpg/

the first set is normal happens, i always cut those off immediately once the plants gets some fat vegging going on, but i still think there is a problem. what worried me was the yellowing on your newer leaves on the other pictures, especially since its on the newer growth.

it definitely has to be a nitrogen issue, i think they arent getting enough right now. easier sign to know they arent getting enough food is how droopy your leaves are, when a plant is being fed properly it should be perky after each feeding. i think if you give some nutes to it, increase the nitrogen you should see some improvements as time goes by just remove those yellowing leaves.

plants naturally prepare to sleep some hours or close to lights off. so dont be alarmed if they droop then its perfectly normal, they are resting but if they start to constantly droop after looking really healthy which looks like your case its usually a sign of not enough nutes if you know you arent over watering for sure.. also i noticed many indicas will droop right after a watering, i dont know if its because the leaves are larger and get heavier or just a genetic trait in most indica strains but its another thing to not be alarmed of when your plant droops slightly right after a watering, couple hours it will be back to normal.
 

crocop676

Member
Thanks man, rly good answers, what sort of filter would you recommend then?

Here's some more pics, notice the yellowing right in the middle of the leaf..yea could be N deficiency since the runoff pH was 7.0 yesterday after I watered with 6.5, well, I'll keep watering with 6.3-6.5 and hopefully gonna turn out good.

http://postimage.org/image/1zhbpsj6s/
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
heya crocop they are looking good for now but a higher ph comming out thats not a good sign to be honest....do you let the plants dry out or is the soil still moist when you water....?
let these plant dry out till they wilt a bit and then water with 6.2 water .....moist soil in combination with high lvl's of nutrients can interfeer with the ph lvl's
if this does't help then only thing you can do is a flush ....to straighten ph and nutrient lvl's out....IMHO!!
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
no it does not look ok on these pix mate, realy not...you need to take action on these plants asap
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i'm realy serious ....i always am when it comes to plants and money......but that aside
they are not looking very healthy ....


maybe you can start a newer thread in a other section for more reactions of IC memebers.....?

i'll check in later on
 

Stress_test

I'm always here when I'm not someplace else
Veteran
picture.php

I'm astonished this thread is still alive. Eleven days after the original post?


Your plants need fed... If you keep fuckin around they will be dead.

If they were in my garden I would:
Nutrient/water schedule: By weight, as needed.
Nutrient recipe:
16 crushed Aspirin,
3/8 cup Brer Rabbit Molasses, (8Tbs)
8 tsp Jack's Classic All Purpose (20-20-20),
3 Tbls Epsom Salt,
8 Tbls Lilly Miller Vitamin B1 Plant Starter.
Mixed in 3 cups hot water (boiling hot) to dissolve solids.
Makes 1 quart concentrate. Stored in Refer.
Mixes 16 Gal. @ 1/4 cup per gallon of water and Ph to 6.5ish.

The aspirin will help build immunity to pests and virus's.
Molasses is a great supply of micro nutrients, as well as K and Mg.
Epsom salts keeps Cal/Mag in check.
LM plant starter cleans and encourages root growth, as well as delivering sufficient chelated iron to assist in uptake.

After this long man you need to stop jerking off and go get supplies to grow those plants before they die.

Those are Autoflowering plants. That means you are fighting a biological clock and from what I'm seeing and reading; you are losing. They were beginning to flower at day 19 when you first started this thread, so every day the problem isn't corrected is like a weeks worth of growth they lose, and with AF's you can't just veg longer to make up for stunted growth. They will finish when it is time regardless, whether you are keeping up or not.

Core seems to be pretty much on top of things and from what I've read, usually gives sound advice. Don't let ProGerbik sidetrack you with possible problems and solutions, from what I've read in this thread he doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground about growing herb. Because there AREN'T ANY POSSIBILITIES. It's a 100% fact that your plants are starving and a 100% fact that if you feed em it will correct the deficiencies.

the first set is normal happens, i always cut those off immediately once the plants gets some fat vegging going on, but i still think there is a problem. what worried me was the yellowing on your newer leaves on the other pictures, especially since its on the newer growth.

it definitely has to be a nitrogen issue, i think they arent getting enough right now. easier sign to know they arent getting enough food is how droopy your leaves are, when a plant is being fed properly it should be perky after each feeding. i think if you give some nutes to it, increase the nitrogen you should see some improvements as time goes by just remove those yellowing leaves.

plants naturally prepare to sleep some hours or close to lights off. so dont be alarmed if they droop then its perfectly normal, they are resting but if they start to constantly droop after looking really healthy which looks like your case its usually a sign of not enough nutes if you know you arent over watering for sure.. also i noticed many indicas will droop right after a watering, i dont know if its because the leaves are larger and get heavier or just a genetic trait in most indica strains but its another thing to not be alarmed of when your plant droops slightly right after a watering, couple hours it will be back to normal.

By throwing out too many "potential problems" and shit, you're confusing the fuck out of everything dude.
The guy has a simple deficiency that is easily corrected. All the added bullshit about soil and RO Ph and filtering water and symptoms "to not worry about" is wasted text.
It ISN'T a Nitrogen issue... It IS a complete nutrient deficiency. Period.
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
its ether a deficiencie or a PH problem.....can't be anything else imho......still, the corrections needed lie miles appart from each other....
i'm going for the last coz he just transplanted into a all mix....even if it is one gallon...

there's is one action that should correct everything in one go....just flush out everything with a mild 1/2 dose of nutrients .....that could do the trick and go from there ....
 

crocop676

Member
As far as I know, when you have a nute problem, first thing to do is correct the pH, cuz if that isn't right, the nutes will be locked as well, right?

So I'm starting to think the pH is messed up bcuz when I watered (with 6.5 ph'd) it came out as 6.8 and for some of them 7.0.

Watering today just to test the runoff, feeding next time if it is really high


Core, just to let you know, I had them in the all mix FROM SEED. so probably the nutes are already eaten up..
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
yea but you have transplanted from a 1/2 gallon it into a gallon not so long ago i understud of your posts???
 

Stress_test

I'm always here when I'm not someplace else
Veteran
As far as I know, when you have a nute problem, first thing to do is correct the pH, cuz if that isn't right, the nutes will be locked as well, right?

So I'm starting to think the pH is messed up bcuz when I watered (with 6.5 ph'd) it came out as 6.8 and for some of them 7.0.

Watering today just to test the runoff, feeding next time if it is really high


Core, just to let you know, I had them in the all mix FROM SEED. so probably the nutes are already eaten up..


As it should...
The Ph of the R/O should actually be neutral if the plants are up-taking properly. Leaving no salts behind.

An experiment I've done several times, and one that I recommend every new grower do:
I started with some remaining soil from the batch I mixed up about two months previous. It approximately consists of 50% Miracle Grow Organic, 40% perlite, 10% peat moss. This soil also contains blood meal and lime. I discovered through use that this soil is VERY acidic and needs lots of lime to help bring the pH up.

I checked the beginning soil at a pH of 5.6 according to my Milwaukee SM802 pen.

I then filled three identical sized/shape/drained pots with the same amount of soil (approx. 1 gallon).

I then prepared three 1 gallon contains of water. One of them I adjusted to a pH of 5.0, one I adjusted to 7.0, and the other to a pH of 9.0.

Into the first pot I poured half of the 5.0 water and caught the first bit of runoff. I then let it sit for about 5 minutes and poured the other half gallon into it and caught the first runoff from that.

I duplicated this with the other pots and the 7.0 and 9.0 water.

Soil A with 5.0 water going in:
First Runoff: 5.6
Second Runoff: 5.9

Soil B with 7.0 water going in:
First Runoff: 5.7
Second Runoff: 6.0

Soil C with 9.0 water going in:
First Runoff: 5.8
Second Runoff: 6.0

Now obviously the Ph won't remain the same after repeated tests without plants helping out. But what it indicates to me is that the R/O really doesn't tell squat about what plants are doing because if the soil is neutral and the plant is up-taking then the Ph is going to balance out close to the same as the soil.

If the Ph does change then there is a nutrient or Cal/Mag problem that needs to be corrected.
The recipe I posted previously addresses the problem head on. I've used it for years and many growers here on ICMag have corrected uptake problems using it.
 

crocop676

Member
Ok watered with nutes and the droopy leaves climbed back up in no time!

But, I'm quite amazed, I only watered 200-300ml of water (the pots felt quite light before watering), and there was already a runoff of 100ml, what should I understand from this? too much water?

Another thing, would it be worth transplanting them into bigger pots at this point (32 days old), currently in 1 gal pots

Also, afaik Bio Bloom doesn't have any cal/mag in it, if I add some epsom salts, how much should I add / liter or gallon?

Thanks guys
 

Stress_test

I'm always here when I'm not someplace else
Veteran
The 1 gallon pots will be fine for another couple weeks. You are actually better off letting them get slightly root bound before transplanting.

The reason you got so much run off right away is because the soil was dry. When I water, I water 1/4 of the pots volume and wait 10-15 minutes and do it again.
That allows the soil be absorb some water which will help it absorb the second watering better.
The first volume is used more like a primer for the pot, the second is the actual watering.
 

crocop676

Member
Hi, just noticed the roots are coming out the drain holes, should I transplant now?

Also, if I transplant into same soil (Biobizz all mix), do I still need to add nutes to the water or would the new soil be enough?

Thanks guys
 
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