Tea Article

[CC_2U]

MM

Would there be a benefit from applying an AACT to a worm bin after layering the bedding material of horse, dairy and thermal compost to get things up and moving?

Are you familiar with the type of sprayers sold under the generic name of 'compost sprayers' by any chance? A couple of years ago on the Yahoo compost tea group there was a bit of discussion on why using this type of sprayer might be preferable to the standard ones sold at nurseries.

Just curious as usual.

CC

 

[Microbeman]

MM

Would there be a benefit from applying an AACT to a worm bin after layering the bedding material of horse, dairy and thermal compost to get things up and moving?

Are you familiar with the type of sprayers sold under the generic name of 'compost sprayers' by any chance? A couple of years ago on the Yahoo compost tea group there was a bit of discussion on why using this type of sprayer might be preferable to the standard ones sold at nurseries.

Just curious as usual.

CC

Not a great benefit.

I'm not familiar with those sprayers. As you may know, we just use a sump pump hooked to a garden hose. There is nothing better.

 

[jaykush]

Jay can you give an ideal size?

the bigger the better, and faster it works. my pits now are 8'x10' and 3 ft deep and piles that were 20 cubic yards. i have done them as small as 2x2x1 though.

 

[mad librettist]

meh.

Einstein, that's just not enough power. I frequently make use of a 3x barlow lens with the 10x eyepiece and the 20x objective, so I can look at 500x and still have phase-contrast.

I also use my 40x objective very frequently with a 16x eyepiece.

200x is just not enough to help you brew good tea, but it will allow you to spot things you really want to see up close, prompting you to get a real scope.

 

[mad librettist]

And too the other guy talking about 'my scope specs' did ya spend 59.00 on it? Why the need to compare it too a 59.00 toy sold next to legos @ toys r us! ? lol

you invited the comparison by putting it in a thread about compost tea....

for ACT, this is not a good tool.

edit: since you don find that useful, let me be more clear - you need more than 200x to do the most crucial microscopy task of ACT brewing: telling flagellates from ciliates, and gauging bacterial population.

 

[mapinguari]

the bigger the better, and faster it works. my pits now are 8'x10' and 3 ft deep and piles that were 20 cubic yards

That is one large fungal mass...eight by ten are you freakin' kidding me?

And of course the wood chips you say to avoid are the ones PG&E gives us...

 

[jaykush]

did i forget to mention i have 3 of those pits lol.

i get chips from the city trimmers all the time. they mostly trim the oaks that are growing over the power lines. i can call any day i want and within a few more days have a 10 yard pile delivered for free.

 

[Microbeman]

I wanted to post some video but I guess it is not supported(?)

 

[Bullfrog44]

I am about to make my first batch of AACT. I am super stoked. I want to use the following recipe but I don't have any liquid kelp. I have a bottle of fish emoultion, but no kelp. Humm....
5 gal brewer
1 lb. compost
½ cup of humic acid
1 to 3 T. of kelp
1 tsp. of non-sulfured, blackstrap molasses

 

[Bullfrog44]

This is what Vital Earth reccomends.
Vegetative growth tea: (per gallon)

1-2 TBLS Vital Earth's® High-Nitro Guano 9-3-1, &/or 8-4-4, &/or 7-7-2
4-8 TBLS Mega Worm®
1-2 TBLS Vital Earth's® Organic Compost O.M.R.I™

They were at my hydro store when I was picking up soil and I have everything they ask for. Anybody see any problems with this mix? Where is the molasses? Also, how long do I brew for if my temps are around 70-80 degrees?

 

[heady blunts]

I am about to make my first batch of AACT. I am super stoked. I want to use the following recipe but I don't have any liquid kelp. I have a bottle of fish emoultion, but no kelp. Humm....
5 gal brewer
1 lb. compost
½ cup of humic acid
1 to 3 T. of kelp
1 tsp. of non-sulfured, blackstrap molasses

exciting! the kelp is a fungal food (as far as i understand it). so i think you could replace it with something else for them. the fish emulsion might work (i'm sure you've seen the emulsion vs hydrolysate conversation that pops up semi-regularly around here, so i wont get into it). you don't need much of it though, no more than half a teaspoon per gallon.

kelp meal is a great amendment with a ton of uses though. so pick some up next time you get a chance.

also 1 tsp of molasses in 5 gal seems crazy low. i use 6 TBSP in a 4-5 gal brew.

 

[Bullfrog44]

If you don't mind me asking Heady, what is your mix?

 

[heady blunts]

If you don't mind me asking Heady, what is your mix?

since i don't have a scope i just stick with MM's recipe.

for my ~4 gallon brew i use:


<2 cups EWC

6TBSP molasses

2TBSP kelp meal

2tsp fish hydrolysate



from microbeorganics.com

1 gallon = 16 cups = 256 tablespoons

2.38% by volume compost or vermicompost (EWC) per gallon = .38 cups or around half a cup max or about 2 cups in 5 gallons max.

0.5 to 0.75% molasses by volume per gallon = 1.28 to 1.92 tablespoons per gallon. 0.75% is the maximum I use. It is a good bacterial and fungal food.

0.063% fish hydrolysate by volume per gallon = 0.16 tablespoon = 0.479 teaspoons or half a teaspoon

0.25% (max) kelpmeal by volume per gallon = 0.64 tablespoon or half a tablespoon

 

[mad librettist]

since i don't have a scope i just stick with MM's recipe.

 

[Bullfrog44]

I will have to follow MM's recipe as well, I will let you guys know how it goes.

 

[Bullfrog44]

I have yet to make my brew. The only info I can't find is how long to brew. I read the part about how temps, altitude and other factors can effect your brew, but what is the average brew time under ideal temps? I am thinking about mixing up my brew this mourning (8am) and applying it tomorrow at 3-4 pm. Almost 36 hours. I am at sea level, and temps are going to be around 75 today where my brewer is. If anybody sees anything wrong with this please let me know.

Edit: I also have the commercial ecco 5 so my air should be up to par for a normal brew.

Double Edit: Darc Mind - Do you use a extraction bag? Or just dump strait into your brewer?

 

[heady blunts]

hmm seems like you're in ideal conditions. should only take you 18-24 hours to achieve ideal bacterial/fungal populations. 36 hours might get you a protozoa soup..

 

[Bullfrog44]

Good to know, I will wait until 3 so I am looking at 24 hours. So, does that mean that under ideal conditions one should brew for 18-24 hours?

Also, what about an extractor bag? Do I need one or should I just free ball it?

 

[heady blunts]

Good to know, I will wait until 3 so I am looking at 24 hours. So, does that mean that under ideal conditions one should brew for 18-24 hours?

yes, according to microbeorganics.com (ie based on his recipe).

Also, what about an extractor bag? Do I need one or should I just free ball it?

i hate the tea bags. i just do it all in free suspension.

if i want to use it for foliar or apply it to my garden using a syphon, i just drop a paint strainer in there after it's done and it keeps all the larger particles separated.

one thing to consider is that paint strainers, panty hose, tee shirts, and coffee filters are all too finely meshed to allow the fungal hyphae to pass through. it's a bummer.

also all that sludge at the bottom is a great top dressing or you can just pour it back into your worm bin.

 

[Microbeman]

Without a microscope, assuming you have a good quality (vermi)compost 24 to 30 hours should be a pretty safe bet if you are looking for a nutrient cycling brew complete with enough flagellates (protozoa) to cycle nutrients from consuming bacteria/archaea. If you are looking for a bacterial/fungal brew (provided there is fungi in your material) I recommend 18 to 22 hours at around 65 to 70 degrees F. A lot depends on the efficiency of the brewer. A little 5 gallon airlift we just donated to a community garden surprised us by being complete with bacteria/archaea, flagellates and fungal hyphae at 11 hours. We did use extremely high quality vermicompost and only molasses as a feedstock. Once again my belief that black strap molasses is a good all round feedstock was confirmed. Sometimes (often?) it is better to keep your recipes simple.

*KELPMEAL* A word about kelpmeal. The kelpmeal I use is regular feed grade quality. If you are using soluble kelpmeal use much less. The amount I post 0.25% is a maximum and be sure to add it only at the beginning. The hormones in kelpmeal can cause a delay in bacterial activity so it can mean you may need to brew a little longer. It does appear, however to stimulate fungal growth so it might be used to an advantage to grow out fungal hyphae while keeping bacteria temporarily in check.