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A/C or Air Cooled Hood to control heat?

A/C or Air Cooled Hood to control heat?

  • Portable A/C

    Votes: 1 7.1%
  • Air Cool hood with TD100 from veg cab

    Votes: 9 64.3%
  • Get a bigger fan and filter

    Votes: 2 14.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 2 14.3%

  • Total voters
    14

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
I have moved up to a dimmable 600w and even dimmed to 400w puts me at 82/83* sometimes 87-89* if I haven't opened the tent in a while. Also I think my thermometers re off by a couple of degrees, but no way to test it

My old setup utilized the fan from my veg cab(TD100x) to air cool my Sun System hood, but theres no space in this new area, to run the ducting the same way and have easy access to my veg cab.

I'm using an S&P TD125 on high, attached to a Phresh 4" filter and an oscillating fan at the bottom, to push up the radiating heat from the sealed Sun System hood.

The fans are kinda small for this size tent so I have various options listed in the poll. I live in a hot area which makes this room very hot during the summer, which is why i'm leaning towards an A/C, but stuck nonetheless.
 
I

Iron_Lion

When I was running my 600 with an A/C hood and venting in to my attic I still needed to run my central air to keep temps where I wanted them to be during the summer.
 

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
It looks like i'm gonna have to buy a portable A/C also. I've connected the exhausts together and push them into the attic for a 5* drop, but its still too hott. I guess thats part of having bigger lights in a hot climate. For now just running 400w...
 

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
Does anyone think a booster fan will help my situation?

Right now I have a 4"-5"-6" wye fitting. The 6" goes out to the attic via a 2' section of ducting. The 5" is attached to 1.5' of ducting, than the TD125 connected to the carbon filter. The 4" fitting has about 6' of ducting in total(TD100X>3' duct>AC hood>3ft ducting>multi-wye).

The reason I mention using a booster fan is because I believe the 4" has lost a little bit of its oomph and I think the 5" tends to create backpressure for the 4". I'd like to put in a 6" booster fan at connection to the wye to boost airflow in all directions. If this could get me an extra couple of degrees id be happy.

I still think an A/C is inevitable though. For now I'm trying to get my control down
 
First off, a duct booster probably won't make a noticeable difference, especially since you have such short runs.

Next, a little more info is necessary before I can give you a good answer to your question, so I have a couple questions for ya:

1) What is the maximum temperature of your intake air (when your lights are on)?

2) What is the maximum outdoor air temperature (when your lights are on)?

3) Do you run your lights at night?

4) Is it possible for you to eliminate the Y-fitting, cut another 6" hole, and vent both circuits (TD100 & TD125) into your attic separately?

5) Do you have enough space in your tent to use larger ducting and reducers to attach said ducting to your fans/filter/reflector?

6) Where is you tent? (e.g. closet, spare bedroom, whatever)
 

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
I fixed the problem by adding an A/C. My tent was 5* within ambient temperature, so I just needed to bring it down some since we dont run central A/C(its broken). A/C was probably the only way to get to the level I needed to since I needed a 10*-15* drop.

The tent was in the closet of a South facing room. Ambient room temperature was 85* usually so temps varied.
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
If you run at night that should drop 5 right there. I run a port A/C when I grow in hot weather. I have a duct fan on the A/C exhaust. If the run is to long the A/C will shut down for overheating. The fan inside the unit is not strong enough so I added a 6" duct fan now no more shut downs.

The larger inline fans can reduce the temp considerably a 8-10" inline can suck a lot of heat out very fast.
 

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
If you run at night that should drop 5 right there. I run a port A/C when I grow in hot weather. I have a duct fan on the A/C exhaust. If the run is to long the A/C will shut down for overheating. The fan inside the unit is not strong enough so I added a 6" duct fan now no more shut downs.

The larger inline fans can reduce the temp considerably a 8-10" inline can suck a lot of heat out very fast.


I'm using a window A/C since they're within a foot of each other. I sealed off all other intakes and have a 6" duct going up to the the A/C's vent. It brings it down to whatever I have the tent set to. Now i'm considering slowing my exhaust down, but I would get a positive pressure buildup...Not to mention a larger fan uses about as much energy as this 5300btu window unit.

I really should be running at night, but i'm worried about doing my work and lighting my room up, even with the window covered up. Or getting light leaks during the day. Not to mention, i just love looking at my plants during the middle of the day....Maybe one of these days...
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I always have more exhaust then intake. The reason you want to have negative pressure is to make sure you dont have any air leaks from the growroom. Its not for ''exchanging air faster''.

Basically you use a bigger fan for exhaust / outake than the intake fan and thus you make sure all the air is being sucked by the outake fan and filtered by the carbon filter.

If you had positive pressure instead of negative , you'd end up blowing more air into the room than the amount you 'd remove and thus not all the air would get the chance to get filtered by the carbon filter. Hope this makes sense
 

big ballin 88

Biology over Chemistry
Veteran
I always have more exhaust then intake. The reason you want to have negative pressure is to make sure you dont have any air leaks from the growroom. Its not for ''exchanging air faster''.

Basically you use a bigger fan for exhaust / outake than the intake fan and thus you make sure all the air is being sucked by the outake fan and filtered by the carbon filter.

If you had positive pressure instead of negative , you'd end up blowing more air into the room than the amount you 'd remove and thus not all the air would get the chance to get filtered by the carbon filter. Hope this makes sense

You misunderstood what I had wrote. I said I would slow my fan down, but I would get positive pressure if so. That is the reason i'm keeping my exhaust as is and have a lengthened semi-forced intake. To maintain that perfect balance.:ying:
 

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