Im considering using co2 to eradicate Spider mites in the lab , But i need some 101 from those who have tried this method . For starters the room is 10x10 , 7 ft ceilings . I know i have to seal it tight an apply co2 when lights are on , 1500-1800 ppms for 15 minutes should do it from wat i have read . I plan on just turning the light in the ceiling on while applying not the grow lights , Im new to co2 so bear with me because thats were i need help . I have 2-20lb tanks an regulators wich i will post pics of , Im trying not to have to buy any additional equip . What i need to know is if i plug one of my light timers to the co2 regulator will this work first of all ? And if it does how long would anyone suggest leaving timer on to reach desired ppms in room to kill mites me not having an air monitor ?
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The Borg an Co2 is resistence futile ?
- Thread starter usda101
- Start date
SWAMP CREW
New member
If you want to kill spider mights use Avid or Floramite. Nothing else is going to do it.
Only use in VEG.
Only use in VEG.
LOL . Im going to have a partner wit me to make sure i dont meet the mites at the pearly gates or in the frying pan . Leaving house soon as i activate timers . Any sugges on how long ? No c02 monitor , So open valve all the way turn timer on for recommended length of time , Repeat process 4 days later an im golden ???
Depending on the temps in your growspace, you should do it again before the completion of another life cycle.
Spider mite Life Cycle:
@ Temperature in degree F - [# of Days (Egg to Adult)]
60 - [30]
64 - [21]
70 - [14.5]
90 - [3.5]
As for the exposure time, 15 minutes is ok. I done it only with plants isolated in bags, not in the whole room. Can be done at night with no problem. During the day plants breathe CO2, but also expel O2, which can feed some of your mites and help them survive.
Spider mite Life Cycle:
@ Temperature in degree F - [# of Days (Egg to Adult)]
60 - [30]
64 - [21]
70 - [14.5]
90 - [3.5]
As for the exposure time, 15 minutes is ok. I done it only with plants isolated in bags, not in the whole room. Can be done at night with no problem. During the day plants breathe CO2, but also expel O2, which can feed some of your mites and help them survive.
Go to WallyWorld and hit the spice section... You're looking for 100% pure Citric Acid in a powder form. It'll cost about $5.
Mix it @ 1 Tbs/gal and 1/2 Tsp Brer Rabbit Molasses.
Spray the piss out of all plants even if they don't appear to be infected.
Repeat every couple of days until a couple days before harvest.
The last couple of days just spray em down with fresh water
Your weed might have a hint of citric smell/taste but it is really slight and barely even noticeable if you do a good job of rinsing in the last couple days.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
You can also use Rosemary oil in the same manner as above. I've never used it personally but know a couple folks who swear by it and I've read some reports from PubMed pertaining to it's mortality on mites when used on greenhouse tomato plants.
============================== ==============
Also as a LAST RESORT: you can go to Schucks and get a box of road flares. Cut ONE into about 2" lengths, it'll give you 4 pieces, place em in soup cans around the room, turn off ventilation and light em. Then leave for a couple hours and turn on ventilation again.
I put the soup cans inside of a bigger coffee can with an inch or so of water in it, to prevent them from getting knocked over, or getting too hot.
Like I said above: Last resort. It does leave a slight sulfur taste in the bud.
Be careful also cause them fuckers burn hot.
Mix it @ 1 Tbs/gal and 1/2 Tsp Brer Rabbit Molasses.
Spray the piss out of all plants even if they don't appear to be infected.
Repeat every couple of days until a couple days before harvest.
The last couple of days just spray em down with fresh water
Your weed might have a hint of citric smell/taste but it is really slight and barely even noticeable if you do a good job of rinsing in the last couple days.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
You can also use Rosemary oil in the same manner as above. I've never used it personally but know a couple folks who swear by it and I've read some reports from PubMed pertaining to it's mortality on mites when used on greenhouse tomato plants.
============================== ==============
Also as a LAST RESORT: you can go to Schucks and get a box of road flares. Cut ONE into about 2" lengths, it'll give you 4 pieces, place em in soup cans around the room, turn off ventilation and light em. Then leave for a couple hours and turn on ventilation again.
I put the soup cans inside of a bigger coffee can with an inch or so of water in it, to prevent them from getting knocked over, or getting too hot.
Like I said above: Last resort. It does leave a slight sulfur taste in the bud.
Be careful also cause them fuckers burn hot.
Last edited:
Thanks for advice Stretes but i have used pyth sprays ,neem , azamax an have had good success in controlling them . I also had to fight PM this round an have been spraying the ladys with Serenade an skim milk an water as well . Im 25 to 30 days from harvest an dont want to spray anything else on them an want a full proof an fairly quick method of gettin rid of the fuckers . Peace
I always thought 20k ppm was lethal?
no pest strips
Since we're advising you on something that could kill you:
"OSHA's maximum safe level is 3% (30,000 ppm); lethal concentration (death in 30 minutes) is 10% (100,000 ppm)"
"OSHA's maximum safe level is 3% (30,000 ppm); lethal concentration (death in 30 minutes) is 10% (100,000 ppm)"
i heard 10-20,000 ppm to kill mites, and to do it every 3 days for 9 days. to totally get rid of them. i tried doing this, and it didnt work :/. floramite/forbid killed em dead.
T
tuinman
I do not believe 10, even 20k ppm will kill mites - it's widely distributed on various grow forums, but no studies to back it up. Most insects will shrug off that level of CO2 without noticing.
We have 5 sealed fumigation chambers at our facility. Each the size of a container holding 24 pallets. We use CO2 to kill all insects prior to shipments to some countries, especially Australia (they have fucked up laws).
We send our operators to school to be trained and certified. All venting is to open air. It's dangerous. It's expensive.
There has to be a better way for you to rid yourself of pests.
We send our operators to school to be trained and certified. All venting is to open air. It's dangerous. It's expensive.
There has to be a better way for you to rid yourself of pests.
T
tuinman
grapeman, what concentration of CO2 do you use in the fumigation chambers?
Damn Ismokush all that a there still around . An based off your chart Explosive twice in a week an i should be cool . An from the feedback this is'nt simple but im going to give it a go . So in a nutshell my newb question would be .. With me having no air monitor how long to leave my 20 lb tank on in the room (10x10x7) per application ?
I'll ask the shed man and get back to you.
OK - I was wrong. We don't use PPM as a guideline. The county ag sets the amount we can use and it can fluctuate from year to year. And the amount is in pounds of material or fumigant. For the last 3 years we use;
Container size: 2,250 cubic feet
CO2: 61 lbs.
SO2: 15 lbs.
Hope that gives a bit of a guideline. Ignore the SO2 as that is used as a fungicide for Botrytis. The CO2 is what kills all the insects.
For some stupid reason, the government uses pounds instead of ppm's. Our government is stupid.
Container size: 2,250 cubic feet
CO2: 61 lbs.
SO2: 15 lbs.
Hope that gives a bit of a guideline. Ignore the SO2 as that is used as a fungicide for Botrytis. The CO2 is what kills all the insects.
For some stupid reason, the government uses pounds instead of ppm's. Our government is stupid.
boroboro
Member
Thanks grapeman!
I'm curious about that 61 pounds of CO2 in 2250 cubic feet. If that's 61 pounds of liquid CO2, that's a huge CO2 concentration!
According to my quick calculations 61 pounds liquid would be about 530 cubic feet of CO2 gas (using a CO2 density of around 8.7 pounds / ft^3). That implies a concentration way up around 23%, or 230,000 ppm CO2!
No wonder we're seeing mixed results at CO2 concentrations down around 10% of what grapeman's employer uses.
I've been trying this for the first time over the past 5 days. I have a 1000 ft^3 room, pretty well sealed. Not too many plants in there, as I just moved in. The CO2 controller switches on for only about 30 seconds every 10 minutes, so I don't think there are too many leaks.
My first attempt at using CO2 to kill the mites was 5 days ago. I aimed for 30,000 ppm and more than 3 hours duration. The next day all mites I could find were dead, dead, dead. Good news!
Till 3 days later. The evil little creatures were back with a vengeance yesterday, 4 days after the initial CO2 treatment. I tried it again last night, about doubling the CO2 concentration.
After reading grapeman's protocol, maybe next time I'll try a still higher CO2 concentration, something at or over 100,000 ppm. Scary high level of CO2, but preferable to pesticides in the flower room if it works.
I'm curious about that 61 pounds of CO2 in 2250 cubic feet. If that's 61 pounds of liquid CO2, that's a huge CO2 concentration!
According to my quick calculations 61 pounds liquid would be about 530 cubic feet of CO2 gas (using a CO2 density of around 8.7 pounds / ft^3). That implies a concentration way up around 23%, or 230,000 ppm CO2!
No wonder we're seeing mixed results at CO2 concentrations down around 10% of what grapeman's employer uses.
I've been trying this for the first time over the past 5 days. I have a 1000 ft^3 room, pretty well sealed. Not too many plants in there, as I just moved in. The CO2 controller switches on for only about 30 seconds every 10 minutes, so I don't think there are too many leaks.
My first attempt at using CO2 to kill the mites was 5 days ago. I aimed for 30,000 ppm and more than 3 hours duration. The next day all mites I could find were dead, dead, dead. Good news!
Till 3 days later. The evil little creatures were back with a vengeance yesterday, 4 days after the initial CO2 treatment. I tried it again last night, about doubling the CO2 concentration.
After reading grapeman's protocol, maybe next time I'll try a still higher CO2 concentration, something at or over 100,000 ppm. Scary high level of CO2, but preferable to pesticides in the flower room if it works.
T
tuinman
Thank you very much for finding this out - this is more in line with the concentrations I've seen in other ag studies (and way way higher than 10k PPM for a couple hours).
