If you are just switching it through the contacts of the timer, are they rated to handle the type of load hid lights make? I know people use special relays for a reason when making lighting contactors. I just can't remember that reason at the moment. Different type of load, high inrush current? Something along those lines...
Would anyone like a HOW TO on:
- Thread starter Manitoid
- Start date
supersmallgiant
Member
I'm really interested in how you got that much tungsten load capacity for $50. The timer is ~$40 so that only $10 left for boxes, outlets, plates, wire, wire nuts, strain reliefs, and I have to assume a relay. Let us know!
R
RedRain
yea you power a contactor to with a timer. a contactor is what is used to engage/ disengage large levels of power. you get one that uses a 120v coil and therefore you only run as much power is needed through your timer to pull in the coil in the contactor (less than .1 amp)
all the power is run through the contactor that can be rated at as much as 200 amps. this is also how you rig a thermostat to shut off power if your room gets too hot.
any safe, power board for a grow will have this.
ya u have got to wonder why such a big company spends absolutely no money on your safety or well being!!! you have to be a complete idiot to run ANYTHING CAP!!!
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DoughBrezzy4Twz
New member
Write it up!
Write it up!
Can't wait to see the write up.....
Write it up!
Can't wait to see the write up.....
Is that style contactor that RedRain posted the right kind to be using?
I bookmarked this one while doing some research awhile back...
http://shop.willyselectronics.com/b...relay-heavy-duty-industrial/4,6791,1,0,0.html
I might be thinking of a flip flip where it's at a higher voltage and frequency since it is switching the wire to the lamp, not the power to the ballast. I might just be confused. If the kind RedRain posted a pic of works that is nice since they are cheap. If the special relay isn't required for switching the ballast power, that means that water heater timer probably works fine too.
I bookmarked this one while doing some research awhile back...
http://shop.willyselectronics.com/b...relay-heavy-duty-industrial/4,6791,1,0,0.html
I might be thinking of a flip flip where it's at a higher voltage and frequency since it is switching the wire to the lamp, not the power to the ballast. I might just be confused. If the kind RedRain posted a pic of works that is nice since they are cheap. If the special relay isn't required for switching the ballast power, that means that water heater timer probably works fine too.
R
RedRain
That is a relay u posted used to flip flop a ballast to run 2 lights
Relays can have one leg that is normally open and one is closed. When u energize a coil u switch from one leg to another. Relays have NC and NO contacts (normally open and normally closed).
The contactor i posted can handle 40 amps, you can get contactors to handle up to 200 amps or more.
Relays can have one leg that is normally open and one is closed. When u energize a coil u switch from one leg to another. Relays have NC and NO contacts (normally open and normally closed).
The contactor i posted can handle 40 amps, you can get contactors to handle up to 200 amps or more.
supersmallgiant
Member
Are you guys sure that relay would be good for a flip flop? 1000w bulbs run at 400 volts and that one is only rated at 125v... or am I missing something?
R
RedRain
that style of relay is what is used to flip flop a light
not that EXACT model...
if you want to properly control your lights use a contactor,
instead of running all your power for your lights through a timer, you run the power through the contactor and use the timer to trigger the coil on the
contactor
if you want to flip flop your lights a 240v relay is used, 2 pole , 120v coil
120v is the coil voltage, the contacts are rated much higher.
That page has a link for the pdf with detailed specs. I'm pretty sure that is the relay to use, but might be wrong. Listed for incandescent lamp loads with high inrush current. 600v at 5 amps.
supersmallgiant
Member
I'm really interested in how you got that much tungsten load capacity for $50. The timer is ~$40 so that only $10 left for boxes, outlets, plates, wire, wire nuts, strain reliefs, and I have to assume a relay. Let us know!
supersmallgiant
Member
Did the write up ever get posted? If so, where can it be found? I was really looking forward to this since I already have the timer.
