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Sparks! Seeking Urgent Electrical Help

ICmag -

I am getting sparks /shorts from an unknown source and it's scaring the crap out of me. I will try to describe all relevant equipment, wiring, etc that I think could have any possibility of being involved with this issue.

I know electrical problems can be hard to diagnose without seeing in person. With that said, I appreciate any advice, please keep it positive. I do some things DIY and I am aware some people dont approve of that, but please try and stay on topic about this particular problem.

A little background, I have been indoors for over a decade. I have always wired my own ballasts and lamps. I have always built my own hydro systems. But I'm not an electrician.

So anyways, here's my problem. My room is a small, cramped basement stairwell. It has concrete block walls and a concrete floor. I lined the walls with foam insulation that is reflective (and also conductive, ugg! Never been a problem before). To try and smell seal the room up, I used aluminum heater tape to tape all the seams as well as seal the walls to the floors.

Sigh, there are so many details. I wire my own ballasts, have for years, done it 20 times, never had a problem. I have always used heavy duty outdoor extension cords for this. In this case we are talking a 250mh and 600hps. Only other big power draw is a 400cfm can fan and a 4-outlet air pump.

One my my lights is a DIY cooltube, I am unsure it is grounded correctly. The ground can be attached directly to the mogul socket or to the hose clamp going around the tube that secures the bulb inside the cooltube. Right now it's on the hose clamp, not sure if that is correct, please advise. I always thought it was the reflector it should be grounded to, but this light is vertical and does not have a reflector.

On to power. This is my #1 suspicion. My house has a breaker box, I am using a 20amp service that runs to my garage. The house wires run through metal conduit along the ceiling of my small space. There is an access box where we tapped into these wires. We again used heavy duty outdoor extension cord to run the 20amp service main to be split to two GFCI outlets each with two plugs. All my power runs through here, although I had to string a couple power strips to make all the plugs reach. They are all GFCI as well.

I'm thinking maybe the heavy duty outdoor extension cords are not able to handle that much power coming through the outlets. It is warm, but not melted. Also, if an overload happened, wouldnt the GFCI's get tripped or else the breaker? I examined the wires we used to link the outlets to the house wires, they do not show any signs of melting or overheating.

Now my other suspicions involve the wires from the house power touching the insulated/reflective/conductive walls. I am thinking maybe the wires are shorting out somehow against the wall and then the power is coming down to the floor and the concrete/aluminum heater tape. All wire-to-wire connections are made with wire nuts.

I was filling up a res with water when a couple drops landed on the alum heater tape on the floor. I saw a bunch of sparks and low-level shock. My air pump was also resting on this alum heater tape. The pump has a metal base and rubber gaskets between the base and the pump to prevent vibration. The pump sparked quite brightly, then the rubber feet started on fire. I quickly blew it out and cut all power. Wiped up the water. Pump cord has a couple small bubbles on it and was warm to the touch.

This has been happening a few times lately and it's very frustrating. Yesterday a different air pump with rubber feet was on the concrete and the wire touched the reflective/conductive walls and i got sparks there too. If I am in my room when the 600w comes on, I can hear a small pop and smell ozone.

I would really love to tear all the reflective/conductive wall insulation as well as the alum tape on the floors/seams, but that would be a TON of work and I dont think that's really the problem. It seems like a wiring issue.

This stuff is embarrassing and very difficult to write about. I am trying to find someone locally who can come out and help, but it's not easy. I do have a smoke detector in the room and fire extinguisher outside the room.

I do not have anything that can automatically turn off all power if a critical temp is reached or current is detected. I would be interested in learning more about these devices, in laymans terms and as simply as possible. Also where to get it and how much if you dont mind.

Thanks if you're still reading and K+. I appreciate all the advice, and if needed I could maybe post a couple pics. I'm not into the whole room pics thing anymore, although I used to be back on OG.

MikeRoOrganix
 

ecsd

Member
I'd say it's worth it to tear down the walls and redo the wiring with romex, then double check ALL your connections. I'd hate to heAr of a fire or electrocution, electricity is no joke
 
Little more info: I moved into this space a bit over a year ago. This problem has been happening occasionally for the past few months. It is usually just a single spark or pop and then the problem does not reoccur by itself. I do understand this is a bad thing!

So I am trying to find ways to troubleshoot and or isolate this problem.

I have a couple ideas:

-Rip out my wiring connecting the room to the main and redo with real construction/household wiring (sorry I forget the name)

-Unplug everything from the current set of outlets and move everything onto a different circuit using a couple extension cords and power strips. See if sparks happen again. This might be promising???

-Use a multi-meter tool to search for shorts or bad connections by touching every possible suspect surface including wires, outlets, extension cords, and possibly-conductive alum insulation sheathing and alum tape on the seams and floors.

Thanks again for any help.
 

rives

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It sounds to me as though you have contact between the hot wires feeding your setup and your metal wall covering. To check this you can take a volt meter and read between the foil and a grounded component (the air pump case, for instance, if it is metal). If you have a grounded hot wire prior to the gfci receptacles, they won't trip because they are not sourcing the power. This could come from a skinned conductor in the metal conduit if the conduit isn't properly grounded. The cord on the air pump should be replaced if it has bubbles in it - the insulation on the wire has been destroyed even if you cannot see it. To check for proper grounding on the conduit, get a resistance reading between the conduit and the ground wire (I am assuming that a ground wire has been carried with the circuit - if not, and the receptacles are trying to find ground through their mounting screws, that is a problem that needs to be fixed too).
 
Thank you, that was very helpful. I guess I will just cut the cord to the airpump and splice in another cord, if that is acceptable.

Am I okay to run lights on extension cord to another circuit now? or are there still risks because of the cords from the lights running against the foil?
 

rives

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If the foil is heated up from incidental contact with a hot conductor, it absolutely needs to be fixed. If you get between the foil and ground, it is going to light you up. You need to get some readings on it and find out what is going on.

*edit* On your airpump, it would be better if you changed out the entire cord rather than splicing onto the existing one. It would be very difficult to determine if you had a healthy chunk of cord remaining, or just eased your mind and not the problem. Personally, I would take the pump apart and replace the cord from it's point of origin, making sure to keep the strain relief intact so the connections are not subject to being tugged on when handling the cord.
 
Thanks, I bought some good wire and a new multi meter and I have a friend coming over tomorrow so we will try and tackle it then. I may post as we go to let you know what we find.

My circuit is only 15 amp so we are going to change that with a 20 amp breaker.
 

rives

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My circuit is only 15 amp so we are going to change that with a 20 amp breaker.

You need to make sure that everything in the circuit is rated at 20 amps - you can't simply swap out the breaker and hope for the best. You will need #12 wire (#14 is frequently used on residential 15 amp circuits, and it won't handle 20 amps). Also, most residential receptacles and switches are rated at 15 amps and would need to be upgraded to 20 amp devices.
 

gasman420

Member
If the foil is heated up from incidental contact with a hot conductor, it absolutely needs to be fixed. If you get between the foil and ground, it is going to light you up. You need to get some readings on it and find out what is going on.

*edit* On your airpump, it would be better if you changed out the entire cord rather than splicing onto the existing one. It would be very difficult to determine if you had a healthy chunk of cord remaining, or just eased your mind and not the problem. Personally, I would take the pump apart and replace the cord from it's point of origin, making sure to keep the strain relief intact so the connections are not subject to being tugged on when handling the cord.

for what its worth i agree totally there is obv some wayward current getting on to the tape etc. check everything touching or anything that could carry current. if its not happening unless you spill some nutes then id rule out a short on equipment, when you get your multimeter id be checking to see you havent got reverse polarity from crossed wires . id deff also earth your diy air cooled though as a bad earth is a bitch on trip switches and you dont want that going off all the time or you might be in loads of trouble with ladyboys
 

Stress_test

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Sounds to me like you are pulling too much amperage for too far a distance.

You need bigger wire coming from the circuit box.

CGFI's only work to kill the circuit in case of shorting, they seldom trip for overdrawing amperage.
 

rives

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Sounds to me like you are pulling too much amperage for too far a distance.

You need bigger wire coming from the circuit box.

CGFI's only work to kill the circuit in case of shorting, they seldom trip for overdrawing amperage.

How did you come to this conclusion? His whole post, including the title, concerns sparks flying. You are correct about GFCI's forte', but if everything was hooked up properly and the GFCI was the source of the stray current, this is exactly the scenario that they should take care of (current being sourced by the GFCI which isn't being returned to the device).
 
but if everything was hooked up properly and the GFCI was the source of the stray current, this is exactly the scenario that they should take care of (current being sourced by the GFCI which isn't being returned to the device).

doh I can't quite understand what you're sayin there.. :)
 

rives

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Simply explained, a GFCI measures the amount of current that it is supplying, and compares it to what is coming back on the other leg. If there is a difference (usually in the neighborhood of 5 milliamps), it trips out because the current is taking a different route than what it should be. This would be caused by a ground fault. That is why in my earlier post I was conjecturing that the problem was possibly in the conduit prior to the GFCI's and the conduit was poorly grounded. If the conduit has a high-resistance ground, it can fail to create enough fault current to trip the breaker. If the fault was downstream of the GFCI, the GFCI should have tripped instantly when there was a difference in the outbound vs what was being returned to it.
 
I would LOVE to have a dedicated circuit and powerboard... I feel like its a rats nest in here. I'm embarrassed to say it but I think I have tried to pack too much into this small space. I am very overwhelmed the prospect of correcting this.

For example, I feel like I have 20 different items that need power (mostly small amounts) but they all have different length cords and they all need to be plugged into a certain location or kept off the floor. At the moment I have several power strips spread around the room.
 

gardenbug

Member
Sounds like some part of your power is touching that metal insulation. Maybe your neutral is broken and it's grounding to that insulation and your breaker is bad and didn't trip like it should. Possibly a shorted out load such as air pump or something. Maybe something is miswired and using ground as it's neutral. Will probably take some time with a meter and someone that knows how to use it.
With the crazy sparks going on you might have a short on the lamp side of the ballast. Usually you wouldn't get that much arcing on stuff like water drops and through cords.
Since it's a shared circuit could be problems with other stuff on that circuit causing it as well.
Definitely replace the extension cord with romex if it's a long run.
 

gardenbug

Member
Also make sure you have a ground connected in all your wiring you did, and that you have a ground in the main panel. If your wiring is old enough it may only have 2 wires and no separate ground circuit. Things might be trying to ground through the insulation and floor. Check that your main panel is actually grounded as well. With those sparks the breaker should probably trip, the gfci definitely should. Problem is likely before the gfci or gfci isn't working. Does the test button on the gfci trip it like it should?
 
sounds like you are not grounded out properly , or have a crossed connections up.....
also sounds like you are in NO possition to be wiring anything up , I would start over and check all connections, or better yet run a new dryer plug and get a timer box, it will have a some timed plugs some on 24hours, around 2bills from ur local shops......
MM
 
When I started this hobby, all I had to do was learn to wire a ballast and lamp. Now I am having to learn household electrical concepts. I am for sure not an electrician lol.

Thanks for all the posts, I really appreciate all the constructive comments. :)

My house was built in the 1980's, so it's fairly new.

The GCFI outlets in my room have tripped in the past. I thought I was overloading one outlet and I put one light in each outlet. Doesnt happen anymore.

better yet run a new dryer plug and get a timer box, it will have a some timed plugs some on 24hours
ManMed could you tell me more about this please? I currently just use a heavy duty mechanical timer from home depot for my 600hps. Everything else goes right into the outlets. Thank you!

K+ for helping me be safe

I did NOT sleep well last night. Everything in my room is off, except for two small floro tubes in bloom area, and airpumps (yes the one with the two small bubbles in the cord still... everything would be dead if it was not running. I can try and put a new cord on or get a new one but it's a nice GH $75 four output pump, I just got it grrrr). They cannot be without light for long.. This is stressing me out!
 
I am thinking of relocating the veg room to another closet on another circuit while I rip things out. I'm not sure I can easily move the bloom side.

Oh ya, get this one - So I have all the GCFI outlets tripped, where I pushed the test button and power is off, but left all the plugs still plugged in. I went in this morning, leaned my elbow against a wall with foil coating. Got a mild shock when I touched the reflector on my 250mh, which is a store-bought basic wing reflector with grounded mogul socket and heavy-duty cord from reflector to ballast. I did not DIY the reflector although I did DIY the ballast. And it shouldnt even be powered!

I have lamps where the cords are heavy duty outdoor extension cords still in the outer sheathing, connections made with wire nuts (no solder). If I want to run these wires against the walls that happen to have foil coating, what should I do? use an additional layer or plastic conduit?? Or will this problem go away once my grounding/polarity or whatever problem has been solved. I have NEVER had a single problem with my homemade ballasts before. All parts from 1000bulbs.com and follow the wiring diagram for remote ballast, simple for me.

Interested in learning more about better ways to power my room. Links or search suggestions welcome.

Thanks all!
 

rives

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Oh ya, get this one - So I have all the GCFI outlets tripped, where I pushed the test button and power is off, but left all the plugs still plugged in. I went in this morning, leaned my elbow against a wall with foil coating. Got a mild shock when I touched the reflector on my 250mh, which is a store-bought basic wing reflector with grounded mogul socket and heavy-duty 3-prong plug. Not something I DIY'd at all. And it shouldnt even be powered!

This is exactly the point that I keep trying to get across. Somewhere you have contact between a hot wire and the foil in the room. This contact is heating up the walls (heating up = to make electrically live), and when you make contact between the wall and the grounded reflector, you get shocked. Take your meter and read from the foil to ground (your reflector, the metal case of anything that has a grounded plug, the ground of a receptacle, etc) and you will probably find what I am talking about. If this is the case with your GFCI receptacles tripped, then it has to be coming from the wire feeding the receptacles. It could be from a wire in the conduit that was skinned when it was pulled in, or perhaps from where you tapped into the wiring in box - the wire could be pulled too tight against the conduit fitting and cut the insulation, bringing the wire into contact with the metal.

*edit* You apparently keep thinking that the power is somehow bypassing your GFCI - re, your statement about the reflector "shouldn't even be powered". It isn't powered - however, the ground is still intact. When you trip the GFCI, it interrupts the hot wire and leaves the ground connection intact.
 
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