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Volcanic ash as fertilizer

OjoRojo420

Feeling good is good enough.
Veteran
Hello friends,

I would like to know if any of you have any experience using volcanic ash as fertilizer.

What would be a good initial ratio to mix with soil?

Any observations or warnings?

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Ojo
 

C21H30O2

I have ridden the mighty sandworm.
Veteran
i would think that ash itself would be high in carbon and relatively low in nutrients, i could be wrong. either way i dont think it would hurt. The carbon would be good for the microherd. It will probably have a bunch of sulfur, good for resin production. you should do an experiment.
 

OjoRojo420

Feeling good is good enough.
Veteran
^^^

Thank you so much!

Another thing would be to simply ask local farmers (those next to the volcano) and see what they have experienced.

I just wanted to see if this has been done to Cannabis... whatever works for tomatoes will do for Ganja I reckon... LOL
 

guest2012y

Living with the soil
Veteran
I'd use it for sure. Treat it as a rock powder rather than a fert. Remember Mt.St. Helens? There's tons and tons of that ash mixed with river sand all over the spill zone that looks pretty good. I may just grab some next time I roll by there.
 

OjoRojo420

Feeling good is good enough.
Veteran
^^^

Yeap... I even visited Mt. St. Helen and it was awe inspiring to see the destructive and regenerative power of nature!

Thanks for the rock powder advice Capt. Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze !!!! LOL

Ojo
 

OjoRojo420

Feeling good is good enough.
Veteran
Rock Dust… DUH!!

Rock Dust… DUH!!

From:

http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/727/


"Eons ago the earth had a mantle of rock. Then the glaciers slowly and inexorably moved and ground the rocks into a thick layer we called dirt. The dirt supported plant life, which took in the minerals needed for growth, and gardens were born. Over thousands of years, essential micronutrients were continually taken up by plants, often to the point of exhaustion. We as gardeners attempt to add nutrients back to the soil by means of fertilizers, compost and/or other amendments that we purchase and apply in vast and expensive quantities. However, those materials rarely contain all the micronutrients eroded away or taken up by plants.

What are Micronutirents?

“Eight of the seventeen elements essential for plant growth are micronutrients. On soils deficient in these micronutrients, the application of small amounts of these nutrients can greatly enhance crop production. The micronutrients are Boron (B), chlorine (Cl), cobalt (Co), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo) and zinc (Zn). With the exception of nitrogen, all plant nutrients are of geological origin. Under natural climatic conditions the physical breakup, chemical weathering and release of nutrients from minerals is not fast enough to provide the nutrients for annual crop production.” [1]

There was an area of New Zealand where the sheep were dying for no obvious reasons – there was plenty of food. Then it was discovered that the soils were deficient in the element cobalt. It is well known that cobalt is needed for our immune systems. Another example is provided by E.I. Steifel, Science, 996, vol. 272, where he showed that the process that accounts for much of natural nitrogen fixation in soils requires molybdenum. In many soils adding a trace of Mo would reduce the need for nitrogen fertilizers. [2]

It has been suggested elsewhere that there are as many as 90 minerals needed by plants. Minerals are also essential for human health and the human body utilizes over 80 minerals for maximum function. [3] Because our plants and soils are so nutrient depleted, even if we eat the healthiest foods, we are not getting all the minerals we need.

One Solution

There is one simple solution: rock dust. Rock dust is generally a by-product of the gravel industry and is available almost everywhere, often free for the taking. Rock ‘gravel’ or dust is found in the bottom of creek beds, and pond settlings. The finer the size, the easier microorganisms can access the minerals but if the rock dust has been ground into silt, it is too fine and will merely clog up the pores in the soil.Image

The use of rock dust is not new. Agricultural research with finely ground and chemically unprocessed rocks and minerals, based on the concept of “bread from stones” started in the 19th century by Missoux (1853/54), Hensel (1890, 1894) and others. The Hardin Brothers in Queensland Australia have been using rock dust more than 20 years. They have found less environmental damage, 25% higher yields, 20% increase in growth rates and 80% less fertilizer. [4]

One reason seaweed is so effective in the garden is the high trace mineral content. Greensand, a common soil amendment, is just dust from sandstone rock that was deposited in marine environments.

How does rock dust work best?

Rock dust is most effective when mixed 50-50 with organic compost and a handful of soil to add some microorganisms. The microorganisms feed off the rock dust, taking only the nutrients they need while leaving the remainder in the sub-soil. The compost provides the medium for the microorganism growth. Optimally, the rock dust and compost mixture should be incorporated into the top few inches of soil if possible but may also be spread by broadcasting or spread by hand if you use a no-till method of gardening.

It is not totally necessary to add the rock dust mixed with compost. The dust alone may be added and raked in, or tilled in. The addition of compost just gives the rock dust a head start as food for the microorganisms.

An interesting benefit of adding rock dust is that it will help create more organic matter, which in turn helps hold the soil in place and conserve water. Soil erosion is an effect of the shortage of minerals to support the soil organisms. “That shortage can be made up on any piece of land in the time it takes to work ground gravel dust into the topsoil. When that is done, the soil microorganisms begin to multiply and it is they who prevent soil erosion by granulating the soil and holding it against both wind and rain." [5]

What will Rock Dust Do for my Garden?

Applying rock dust is often called “remineralization” which actually revitalizes the soil by mimicking the process of glaciiation.

Rock Dust:
Provides slow release of trace minerals
Increases microorganism growth
Builds more soil
Increases nutrition in plants and crops
Cuts the need for chemical fertilizers
Increases water retention in the soil
Increases pest resistance
Increases crop yield
Reports of increased winter hardiness

What Kind and Size Rock Dust and How Much?

If the mesh that screens the rock dust is of the size “minus 200” (gravel industry standard nomenclature) it will work in your garden. Masonry sand and sand made for sand-blasting procedures are too coarse and will not be as effective in your garden, taking longer to break down. Rock dust from a gravel pit is usually unscreened but about the right size.

Locally, I have granite dust available from the gravel pits, which is okay to use but not best. The mixed gravel dust from the local stream beds is better. A better yet rock dust comes from glacial gravel or volcanic rock like basalt. Another is montmorillonite. Montmorillonite is a very soft phyllosilicate mineral that typically forms in microscopic crystals, forming a clay. It is the main constituent of the volcanic ash weathering product, bentonite. [6]

An application of 2 tons per acre is the minimum amount, and as much as 20 tons per acre for exceptionally poor, dry soil. Use about 14 pounds of rock dust per 100 square feet of garden bed (or 5 pounds per square yard). If this sounds too good to be true, try an experiment at home with potted plants: take a 6” pot filled with half soil and half peat. Add 3 tablespoons of rock dust. Do another pot just the same but leave out the rock dust. Put identical plants in both pots, and watch for astonishing differences!"

Hope this information helps all!

Ojo
 

Gebr'el

Member
my country is a chain of islands that was formed from multiple volcanos....and the soil here is very very rich (dark reddish brown) and the rockbend here is limestone, which makes for an excellent mj evironment. back in the day we used to export onions (we still might, not sure)...which were reportedly some of the sweetest onions in the world and the outdoor local in the right hands has been some of the best ive smoked. i am almost 100% sure it'll work wonders in your gardens.
peace n love
gebr'el
 

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