Collecting pollen

[Corpsey]

Hey Purpur!

where did you get that box? i needs me one!

 

[vicious bee]

Nevil is a personal friend of mine. I am just finishing up a mainly Haze/ Sativa breeding project. I did 54 crosses this winter using 11 males. Two of the Males were Nevilles Haze. He wants a special cross, using his Nevilles Haze as the pollenater. I even hit some Headband, chemdog91, and SFV OG Kush clones with it.

I've seen you at Mr Nice. I have a different nick there. I would like to ask you one more question. Have you ever run Green House Seeds Nevilles haze and is it the same a s Mr. Nices? I know Neville made Greenhouses. I'm wondering if they have been able to keep the original quality. As an aside I'm not trying to start a fight just wondering if they are even close to each other. I think you know which one I'd rather have.

I notice you have indicating desicant. Looks like DRI-BOX silica. One thing about silica as I understand it. It will not dry down to the appropriate level. You would be better at 7% or less. I believe that silica will not go much below 20% or so. Look at the "Equilibrium H2O Capacity" chart at the bottom of this page.
http://www.sorbentsystems.com/desiccants_charts.html

Notice that at less than 10 Deg. F. it will absorb a lot less water than other absorbents. If you don't believe this put a cheap analog Humidistat in a mason jar and see. I found that dried rice and dried wheat flour added to the pollen will bring the humidity down to lower levels. Less than 7%. I know this from testing in Mason jars with humidistats inside. I think the reason is the same as the equilibrium level of moisture of say salt water. I believe it's some where around 75% at room temp. and used to test the humidity level reading of humidistats. The same applies to silica and the room temperature equilibrium of silica is around 20% humidity or so. Here's another reference.
http://www.seedcontainers.net/a_guide_to_long-term_seed_preservation.html
Look down to Figure 4. on the page. Now look up to the previous paragraph. It says,"Silica gel is simply silicic anhydride, SiO2, though amorphous (non crystalline) obtained through an industrial process. It is granular in texture, white and very porous. It is this last characteristic which gives its absorbent properties. When it is well dehydrated and placed on a scale, it can be observed to absorb up to 20% of its own weight of water. If placed in a closed container such as a Kilner jar, it balances itself with the confined atmosphere until this reaches approximately 10-12% of relative humidity."

Yes I know the paper contridicts itself earlier in table number 1. Where it says,"It reaches moisture levels of 2-3%, lower than those obtained by most.". I believe this is incorrect. How can it get to 2-3% when the equilibrium level is 10-12% of relative humidity. It can't.
Here's a link explaining the terminology.
http://www.sorbentsystems.com/desiccants_terminology.html
A quote"
What Is "Saturation" And "Equilibrium Capacity"?

Although technically they are different situations, for most practical purposes these two terms cover the point at which a desiccant no longer adsorbs moisture.
Saturation is when the desiccant is full and even if there were moisture molecules to pick up, the desiccant could not adsorb them.
Equilibrium capacity is when the desiccant has pulled so much moisture out of the air that the air retains a stronger hold on the moisture molecules than the desiccant can exert. At equilibrium capacity, adding more desiccant will not bring the relative humidity any lower"


I somewhere have a link from a major seed storage organization the confirms silica is not good but for about 20% humidity but I can't find it now. They use calcium oxide in combination with silica. Here's another link explaining desiccant types.
http://www.sorbentsystems.com/desiccants_types.html
Anyways this link I posted I believe shows the easiest, "cheapest" way to save pollen. Maybe not the very best. You would need calcium oxide for that.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=199384

 

[Dr. Purpur]

I have used rice with mixed results. some vials somehow got a little moisture in them anyway.I allow the pollen to dry at room temp, then in the fridge, then into the freezer. The "Lock Lock" box is gasket sealed, and should not let any moisture in no matter. You could always put rice in as well if You were concerned

What I do is shake the vial to test for moisture. The pollen should shake around in there like super fine dry dust. It does.
As for Green house seeds. I do have some Nevilles Haze and other seeds from them in My collection, but opted not to run them. They are going to be different then mns seeds. They may produce the catpiss flavor I dont like. The MNS plants I grew were of very good quality. I just picked and hung the Nevilles Haze female.

 

[Dr. Purpur]

Hey Purpur!

where did you get that box? i needs me one!

Hey Bro!

Thats a Lock Lock box. O ring gasket seal. Available online in many sizes

 

[Mr. Greengenes]

Great thread, thanks for all the great advice on pollin storing and pics Dr. Purpur!!

 

[DocLeaf]

How long after I start to flower a male should it start to drop pollen?

30 to 40 days 12/12 is normal,, depending on age and variety.

We often collect male flowers before they open,, and drop them into a jar of fresh water with plate or card underneath for a few days to catch the pollen as the flowers open

NYCD

Orange Kush

This method comes from Mel Franks book,, it helps keep unwanted pollen away from other flowering female plants in the garden . and has always produced viable pollen for us

Hope this helps

 

[RetroGrow]

^^^^^^^^
Yup, that's how I do it!
Just cut a branch or two and put them in a glass.
Works great and minimizes the possibility of accidental pollination in your flower room.

 

[DocLeaf]

We first started using this method , because its was an easy way of transporting male genetics about ...

.. it can all start from a male flower

haha

 

[dddaver]

I did pretty much what you've seen here. I just cut a few male flowers off before killing the dude at 2-3 weeks flowering. I put those in a jar of water then cut off the bottom of a clear 2 liter soda bottle and put it over that. I had it sitting on a dark plastic sheet so I could better see the yellow gold after it fell. Then I put that at the opposite end of the house away from the flowering girls. When I actually fertilized I shut off all fans and slowly and carefully used a small paint brush on three of the lower/smaller buds. You need about five weeks left in flowering to get a fully formed seed. That worked like a champ. I got 41 good looking seeds. I haven't tried growing any out yet but I'm pretty sure their good.

 

[supersmallgiant]

30 to 40 days 12/12 is normal,, depending on age and variety.

We often collect male flowers before they open,, and drop them into a jar of fresh water with plate or card underneath for a few days to catch the pollen as the flowers open

NYCD





Orange Kush



This method comes from Mel Franks book,, it helps keep unwanted pollen away from other flowering female plants in the garden . and has always produced viable pollen for us

Hope this helps

How long after the flip do you cut them? You say they are in the water for a few days but is that as long as it will work for or just all you need? If you cut them too early will they not mature?

 

[Clayton_Bigsby]

Im glad i found this thread. good info fellas.