Electrician help need plug identified have pics.

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Problem:

I have a light controller that I need to connect to and extension cord that runs to my dryer outlet. I ordered the wrong extension cord apparently and the connectors do not match. I believe I need a 30 amp 240 volt 14-30p and 14-30r extension cord. I need it to be at least 30'. Going to run 4 lights off of it, dehumidifier, and a c02 burner eventually which is why I chose the combo light controller with 2 120v plugs as well.

(I have to do this because my new place would be a nightmare to run the electric. They said they would have to trench around the house, wrap a cord around the house, or tear up a good 40 feet of dry wall upstairs to run it. Or he said use an extension cord which would be the easiest. So, I am going to run this from my outlet in the garage up into my attic and drop it through the ceiling in the flower room.)


Link to light controller I am using:

http://www.powerboxinc.com/7500_combo.html

30A Plug & Play (14-30P)

"This model connects to a 4-wire 240-volt service and in many cases, you can plug right into an existing dryer-type outlet (14-30r)"


This is the dryer plug:

Link to the cord that is wrong:

http://www.cordtec.com/list.asp?id=1315

Male L10-30R

Female L10-30P

Obviously the L did stand for something different lol...So I was wrong.

Can someone find me the correct 30' or 50' extension cord OR find me some sort of adapters if the sort of thing even exists that would allow me to use my existing cord instead of me having to ship this thing back.

Would be extremely grateful for any help!

 

[Iron_Lion]

you dont want that nuetral to run lights, I would pull that wall plug out and put in a 30amp 240v plug 2wire plus ground and cap off the white wire, unless you will be breaking down that circuit to run 120v stuff too. or there should be a nema # on athat wall plug, go to the electical supply house and tell them you need a male cord cap that correspond to the nema # then cut the end off your cord and put the new one on. What you have is call a twist lock, you dont need that.

pretty pricey, would be cheaper to change out the wall outlet
http://milo.com/bry-blk-30amp-250v-nema-15-30p-plug

 

[Dr Dog]

you could return it or you could just lop off the ends and put on proper plugs. You should be able to get what you need at a bog box hardware store

What kind of wattage you taking about running off a single breaker? 4 1000, s I will have to stop you there, it wont work, you will trip your breaker, when your other stuff came on

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

What kind of wattage you taking about running off a single breaker? 4 1000, s I will have to stop you there, it wont work, you will trip your breaker, when your other stuff came on

I can also plug the dehu and c02 generator right into the wall and just run the 4k watts on the controller that is connected to the dryer plug. I figured adding more would hurt it. I won't be running more than 4k watts. Right now it is just 3k watts.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

you dont want that nuetral to run lights, I would pull that wall plug out and put in a 30amp 240v plug 2wire plus ground and cap off the white wire, unless you will be breaking down that circuit to run 120v stuff too.

pretty pricey, would be cheaper to change out the wall outlet
http://milo.com/bry-blk-30amp-250v-nema-15-30p-plug

If running 120v stuff too is a problem I can simply run that stuff from the existing outlets in the room. I thought that my powerbox would handle that since it is a combo box I did not think the dryer plug would need to be different too. Please let me know if this is truly a problem.

That is the plug I need but why when I type that in for an extension cord is there only L15-30p's....I can't seem to find ones without the L that's why I went ahead and ordered it.

Can anyone find an extension cord with the correct plugs? I am not to sure about rewiring the cord may want to just order a new one.

 

[Tilt]

L stands for locking. When the plug is inserted in the receptacle or female end and turned clockwise it has to be turned counter clockwise to be removed. You can change the wall outlet to a L14-30r nema configuration receptacle to accept the L14-30p plug

the locking type is much safer as an extension cord(it is harder to accidentally unplug) the power controller cord can have its end lopped off and wired into a new cord cap L14-30p to use that cord

 

[Iron_Lion]

If running 120v stuff too is a problem I can simply run that stuff from the existing outlets in the room. Please let me know if this is truly a problem.

You can split that 30amp circuit in to 2 15 amp 120v circuits, I would recommend doing this thru a small breaker box with 2 breakers.

You can use that plug for 120 or 240 but not both at the same time. And like I said that nuetral wont be necessary for 240v lighting.

 

[Throwgar]

If you want to run 4000 watts off of a 30 amp circuit, assuming the wire is of sufficient gague, you'll need to do it with 240v. 4000 watts on 120v will pull too many amps.

 

[Iron_Lion]

250v 30 amp twist lock 4 Wire receptacle is what you want
\

NEMA L14-30

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

L stands for locking. When the plug is inserted in the receptacle or female end and turned clockwise it has to be turned counter clockwise to be removed. You can change the wall outlet to a L10-30r nema configuration receptacle to accept the L10-30p plug

the locking type is much safer as an extension cord(it is harder to accidentally unplug) the power controller cord can have its end lopped off and wired into a new cord cap L10-30p to use that cord

But how would I plug my light controller into it? Get the hardwire version and wire the correct adapter? I am very tempted to do this I have a stanley manual somewhere could I safely do this with proper instructions from someone who is 100% correct int heir instructions on here heh?

I very much like the locking idea so it cannot be pulled out and the weight from it hanging does not mess it up.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

If you want to run 4000 watts off of a 30 amp circuit, assuming the wire is of sufficient gague, you'll need to do it with 240v. 4000 watts on 120v will pull too many amps.

Yes but the light controller I have has 4 240 plugs and 2 120's. I will not be doing this anymore anyways but I would like to know for knowledge, does the light controller I have fix the problem?

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

You can split that 30amp circuit in to 2 15 amp 120v circuits, I would recommend doing this thru a small breaker box with 2 breakers.

You can use that plug for 120 or 240 but not both at the same time. And like I said that nuetral wont be necessary for 240v lighting.

To clear this up the dryer plug is an existing dryer plug that is connected to the main breaker box. This is the not a new plug or connected to a dedicated break box. It runs a dryer so I saw no reason it could not run my lights and hopefully I am not wrong about that too.

 

[Iron_Lion]

To clear this up the dryer plug is an existing dryer plug that is connected to the main breaker box. This is the not a new plug or connected to a dedicated break box. It runs a dryer so I saw no reason it could not run my lights and hopefully I am not wrong about that too.

There are 2 different 240volt configurations, (2) wire 240v and (3) 240volt. The difference being (2) wire does not use a neutral, just 2 hots and a ground, this is the typical confiruation for grow lights.

(3) wire is 2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground, this can be easily split in to 2 120v circuits. The neutral is not needed to run 240v grow lights, but a neutral IS required to run 120v lights.

You can install a 2 wire plug in the wall and cap off the neutral.


Im high as shit, but I hope Im pickin up what your puttin down.

 

[rives]

You can run up to 5750 watts full time on that circuit. 240 volts x 30 amps = 7200 watts. Applying the 80% rule, you get 7200 x .8= 5760. You will need the neutral in order to use the Powerbox that you purchased because it has 120 volt receptacles in it. The "L" on the extension cord plugs refers to "locking", meaning the twist-lock configuration. Depending on the return shipping costs of your cord, you could either change the plugs on the cord to 14-30P and 14-30R or change the wall receptacle and the cord cap on the Powerbox to L14-30P and L14-30R. I haven't turned up anything for a ready-made cord that long that isn't a twist-lock but I will keep looking.


*edit* Holy cow, lot's of replies while I was typing and answering the phone! If there isn't an answer here to all of your questions, hit us up again!

 

[Tilt]

But how would I plug my light controller into it? Get the hardwire version and wire the correct adapter? I am very tempted to do this I have a stanley manual somewhere could I safely do this with proper instructions from someone who is 100% correct int heir instructions on here heh?

I very much like the locking idea so it cannot be pulled out and the weight from it hanging does not mess it up.

That is what the locking is for hanging cords. We use them doing cord drops in wharehouses all the time.

The power box would cord end would have to be cut off. You buy a L14-30r cord cap. ( I like the ones with rubber boot for extra protection against water )
steps i would take
1. cut off the plug on the controller
there will probably be one 4 wires. a. black b. red c. white d. green
2. open up the L14-30p cord cap there will be 4 screw lugs. 1 green screw, 1 silver screw,& 2 black or brass screws
3. strip the outer jacket of the cord back 2.5 inches.
4. slip the outer jacket and rubber boot onto the cord from cord cap
5. land the wires on the cord cap ( some have a strip gauge for the wires) green to green screw. white to silver screw. black to 1 black screw. red to to the other black screw. Make sure the connections are tight and no stray strands sticking out
6. put the cord cap together 3 screws on the plug end to go in the outer cover of the cap.
7. tighten the clamp portion down onto the outer jacket of the cord push the rubber boot over the clamp
8. you are done ( smoke a fattie you deserve it)

please feel free to add to this. I might have missed something. Sometimes it his harder to explain something than just doing it because it comes naturally to me now. A good electrician is always willing to allow a peer to verify his work.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Hey check it!

http://www.conntek.com/shoppic/200711792321912.jpg

It's an adapter cord. Now I just need another adapter for my light controller or I can just order the hardwire version of my light controller and wire my own L14-30p on it.

EDIT:

Can't find adapter configured L14-30p to 14-30r so I will just send back my light controller for a hardwire version and ask for help wiring on here. I will use the existing plug with the adapter I found.

This will work correct?

 

[Iron_Lion]

Hey check it!

http://www.conntek.com/shoppic/200711792321912.jpg

It's an adapter cord. Now I just need another adapter for my light controller or I can just order the hardwire version of my light controller and wire my own L14-30p on it.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Kick ass big sigh of relief! I was really stressed since the electrician gave me the bad news. Thanks a lot everyone in here has helped

Thanks a lot for the instructions Tilt I will post if I have questions when I do it.

 

[growshopfrank]

If anyone needs a extension cord that plugs into a dryer or stove outlet here is a link to a reasonably priced screw on type plug.
http://www.levitonproducts.com/catalog/dept_id_983/model_275-T.htm

 

[Avenger]

Every extra plug in connection that you add, because of the adapters and such, increases the chance of failure.

Relying on friction to maintain good electrical contact is bad mojo on high current, constant loads.