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passive non-circulating hydroponics.

geopolitical

Vladimir Demikhov Fanboy
Veteran
Set it and forget it. I'd love to apply this to cannabis but I shudder at the size of the res I'd need. Solution is never changed, never circulated. Just fill & come back to harvest a few months later.

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Tranc3R

Member
Interesting.

Usually passive hydro draws air to the roots via the medium they are in?

I dont understand how this would work ?? Keen to know, i'd give it a go.
 

geopolitical

Vladimir Demikhov Fanboy
Veteran
The roots convert from water to air roots as the solution drops. You end up with a very tiny % of the roots in the water itself, and most of them acting as a capillary wick with air roots shooting off as small spikes along the column.
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been trying to do this outdoor for years.very hard in a large rez with no air pumps,water pumps,ect..indoor idk but nice thinking.peace and a peaceful harvest
 

geopolitical

Vladimir Demikhov Fanboy
Veteran
We actually do large beds this way using a pond liner + bluefoam w/ holes for the cover. The real issue is the pH over the long term. It works best for short term crops of 4-6 weeks unless you intend to come back to regularly check and adjust pH. With head lettuce I have to adjust pH 2-3x total, with leaf maybe once and sometimes not at all. I have seen full season tomatoes done in a 40 gallon trash can so it's very possible.

The biggest rule is to NEVER let your res refill for any reason unless your plant is semi-aquatic like spearmint or similar.
 

geopolitical

Vladimir Demikhov Fanboy
Veteran
Same plant after 2 harvests, the trick with this oak leaf is to keep it to 10 or less leaves, they don't tend to bolt without enough "resources". You can also go with a much lower nitrogen level in winter as well, I'll roughly halve the nitrogen level when I'm at 6 hours or less of natural light. The supplemental lighting is enough to maintain photoperiod but not enough to really encourage much growth. Very little solution is consumed compared to growth, and the growth while lovely is lighter green than in summer. You can add a ton of nitrogen to "green" them up, but the plants just store them away for a rainy day as nitrates in the leaves, you really don't get any benefit from it "looking" right.

The medium itself from the starter net pot is bone dry. This is a huge advantage when you're growing mold prone crops in fairly high humidity conditions. I can't do basil any other way with our fall weather.

Notice the algae buildup, very little builds up in the solution or walls, a fine network of algae & other critters build up on the roots. I notice clarity issues when they occur do so very early on and resolve w/o intervention. I used to throw the bottles in paper sleeves but after I got lazy one year and it worked anyway I just stopped, too much trouble.

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#1cheesebuds

Well-known member
Veteran
wow holy shit dude this looks very kick ass dude.

So like do u have a how to on building one. cuz I really wanna build me a bunch of these for my summer veggie garden grow. and Id love to try this with mj also.

thx for sharing this cool idea.
 

stihgnobevoli

Active member
Veteran
looks like the same concept as hempy bucket no? i think ill try this with some mary jane, now i gotta find a bottle i can fit in my cab with the res and something to support it.
 

geopolitical

Vladimir Demikhov Fanboy
Veteran
Similar, except once you add your solution you never do another thing. No watering, no nothing.

We got curious and we're actually running a few small indicas through on this system now. Once we get some growth I'll post some pics on the other sub forum.
 

#1cheesebuds

Well-known member
Veteran
so could I use coco as the medum for this setup? is fo them ill be building me one of these to day for sure. :D
 

geopolitical

Vladimir Demikhov Fanboy
Veteran
you can use anything that a seed or cutting will root in. Effectively there is no medium as far as the roots are concerned. I have used peat pellets, coco pellets, nothing (I just stick basil cuttings in a hole cut in a lid), standard soilless mix, perlite, leca, & gravel. Heavier mediums (remember the medium will go dry so factor that into how "heavy" it is) will help the plant stay put until the roots really expand.

Mature plants will almost always exhibit a "cone" shaped root structure with thin fairly undifferentiated water roots that will grow very fine air roots as the nutrient level drops. Water roots can look VERY ugly depending on the plant so don't be put off if it's a bit odd looking.
 

supermanlives

Active member
Veteran
i dont see any cannabis. i too would like to see someone try it with cannabis. everyone knows this method works well with leafy greens and herbs. not so good for fruiting and flowering crops. i tried once and it was a disaster. i built several coolers from the first link worked great with leafy stuff
 

geopolitical

Vladimir Demikhov Fanboy
Veteran
I've seen tomatoes & cucumbers done with it, but the res involved for the plant was pretty drastic, upwards of a medium trashcan in most cases.
 

SRGB

Member
passive non-circulating hydroponics.
Square Root™ Brand Garden Bag may be of interest to viewers of this thread. The Low-tech Gardening Method was developed specifically for passive, non-reciculating gardens, in soilless media and mixes.

See these threads for more:

Square Root Brand™ Garden Bag - Drain-To-No-Waste [Methods]

Square Root™ Brand Garden Bag - Low-Tech Gardening [Methods]

Some root p0r|\|:

Square Root™ Brand Garden Bag - Roots Gallery


And a recent brief write up:

Where does your coco run off go? Drain? Floor? [at post # 17]

Feel free to post your methods, techniques, experiments and questions in the Square Root™ Brand Garden Bag sub-forum.

All the best,

SRGB
 

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