V
vonforne
n)
no that would be 4 TBS per gallon. 16 TBS per cup.
That is way toooooooo much
V
And if you are using Alfalfa and guano it is a nutrient tea then and not an ACT.
my turn to cry...
- Thread starter trichrider
- Start date
no that would be 4 TBS per gallon. 16 TBS per cup.
That is way toooooooo much
V
And if you are using Alfalfa and guano it is a nutrient tea then and not an ACT.
Thats what I'm saying, 1 cup/4gallon = 12tsp per gallon = 4tbs per gallon = too much.
Also he is using EWC, compost, alfalfa, and guano, is it bad to combine a "compost tea" and a "nutrient tea" together like he is?
V
vonforne
When you put nutrients in it defeats the purpose of the Compost tea which is to add a greater number of micro organisms to you soil. When you use nutrient components you are feeding the plants and also a adding a little organic matter to the soil.
So, make a compost tea seperate. and if <ou think yyou need a nutrient tea then make that seperate.
But only use about 1 TSP molasses either way.
V
So, make a compost tea seperate. and if <ou think yyou need a nutrient tea then make that seperate.
But only use about 1 TSP molasses either way.
V
oh boy yeah, you weren't kidding.
I like to go with microbeman's recipe, which calls for three quarters of one per cent molasses.
that's 2.8tsp per half gallon in my brew.
I like to go with microbeman's recipe, which calls for three quarters of one per cent molasses.
that's 2.8tsp per half gallon in my brew.
Do you have a link to his recipe? I need to brush up on my recipes, for some reason I was thinking MM recommended 1tsp/gallon.
microbeorganics dot com
my half gallon brews look something like:
compost tea
3TBS compost (2.38%)
1/2 gallon water
2.8tsp molasses (0.75%)
1/4tsp fish H (0.063%)
1tsp kelp meal (0.25%)
rock phosphate 1/4 tsp (0.063%)ic
my half gallon brews look something like:
compost tea
3TBS compost (2.38%)
1/2 gallon water
2.8tsp molasses (0.75%)
1/4tsp fish H (0.063%)
1tsp kelp meal (0.25%)
rock phosphate 1/4 tsp (0.063%)ic
I think CT Guy uses a tiny bit of alfalfa in his teas,I believe it's just enough to provide food while brewing. I've sampled his tea mix and seen a bit of alfalfa in there,just not sure how much he uses.
I usually recommend 0.5% molasses but 0.75% is the maximum I'd use; so I think there are 256 tablespoons per gallon and 0.5% x 256 = 1.28 tablespoons/gal or max 0.75% x 256 = 1.92 tablespoons/gal
0.64 tablespoon kelp MAX but use less like 0.063% unless you have a scope; seriously Kelp can kill microbes
6 tablespoons of compost/gal 2.38%
0.16 of a tablespoon (0.063%) fish H/gal or 2.4 ml
Last edited:
From the Tea Article
yeah I actually substitute bio-tone for the kelp, and azomite for rock phosphate these days.
thanks really, all of you.
did the ewc slurry treatment, brewing a new batch of tea.
was trying to figure why it was too much molasses, then I remembered diluting the mo by half in the jars so it would be easier to handle...so thats only about 1/2 cup full strength.
I'm such a stoner all the time.
vonforne, apologies for misspelling your handle, I was exsaperated at the time.
Hey Microbeman! thanks for taking a moment, appreciate it.
Really all of you, Thanks.
did the ewc slurry treatment, brewing a new batch of tea.
was trying to figure why it was too much molasses, then I remembered diluting the mo by half in the jars so it would be easier to handle...so thats only about 1/2 cup full strength.
I'm such a stoner all the time.
vonforne, apologies for misspelling your handle, I was exsaperated at the time.
Hey Microbeman! thanks for taking a moment, appreciate it.
Really all of you, Thanks.
TACOE
Member
Hey trichrider,
I'm glad the other folks here covered your AACT being too strong in many departments.. that was my first comment. I have made teas the way you have - combining AACT with Nute Tea.. it's no good. Thats how i ended up with the claw in flower. After having unsuccessful grows using my previous methods, I have decided to keep most of the food in the soil. Working on a water-mostly grow lol.
secondly, I didn't see anyone cover this in this thread and you may already know this:
FF Bottled Nutes (except Big Bloom) are INORGANIC. They are chelated with EDTA(?) - a synthesized compound of formaldehyde and sodium-cyanide which is used in fertilizers like miracle grow, and is also contained in MANY soaps (facial, body) and lotions. Kinda gross if you ask me. (speaking of soaps I have been using that alba facial soap .. pineapple enzyme or something... seems pretty safe and smells pretty --- no homo)
anyway.. You mentioned a possible build up from recycling? Recycling a mix that used synthetic nutes is probably not the best idea. Salt buildup? Careful with that.
DON"T USE YOUR FF BOTTLE NUTES WITH ORGANICS (except big bloom - I think thats good shit) Since you have them anyone, might as well hang on to 'em and once you get your true organics dialed in, compare it to a clone in the FF and see what's good. I would like to do the same thing when im all dialed in.
I'm glad the other folks here covered your AACT being too strong in many departments.. that was my first comment. I have made teas the way you have - combining AACT with Nute Tea.. it's no good. Thats how i ended up with the claw in flower. After having unsuccessful grows using my previous methods, I have decided to keep most of the food in the soil. Working on a water-mostly grow lol.
secondly, I didn't see anyone cover this in this thread and you may already know this:
FF Bottled Nutes (except Big Bloom) are INORGANIC. They are chelated with EDTA(?) - a synthesized compound of formaldehyde and sodium-cyanide which is used in fertilizers like miracle grow, and is also contained in MANY soaps (facial, body) and lotions. Kinda gross if you ask me. (speaking of soaps I have been using that alba facial soap .. pineapple enzyme or something... seems pretty safe and smells pretty --- no homo)
anyway.. You mentioned a possible build up from recycling? Recycling a mix that used synthetic nutes is probably not the best idea. Salt buildup? Careful with that.
DON"T USE YOUR FF BOTTLE NUTES WITH ORGANICS (except big bloom - I think thats good shit) Since you have them anyone, might as well hang on to 'em and once you get your true organics dialed in, compare it to a clone in the FF and see what's good. I would like to do the same thing when im all dialed in.
TACOE, thanks man. i may have to consider a new soil before growing any expensive strains...never knew that about the tea either. Made new tea without adding nutrients other than mo (and the ewc, and whatever is in the compost), hoping that helps.
seriously, i never expected the plants in gal. milk cartons to make it anyway. not that i won't utilize the yeild. i know now that to grow from seed in them, less veg is needed. thing is the siblings are doing pretty decent in 3 gal containers, still a bit of curl, but yellowing, no.
seriously, i never expected the plants in gal. milk cartons to make it anyway. not that i won't utilize the yeild. i know now that to grow from seed in them, less veg is needed. thing is the siblings are doing pretty decent in 3 gal containers, still a bit of curl, but yellowing, no.
V
vonforne
That curl could be from heat also. Try increasing your air movement at the top of your plants. Raise the light a few inches also.
Leaf surface temps. Something most growers think of last.
V
Leaf surface temps. Something most growers think of last.
V
thank you vonforne, but the temps are not high, could be they are too low at 68* lights on, 60* off. measured the temp at the canopy and it was 80*.
while i didn't start this off as help line, i do appreciate getting so many suggestions. some of my methods are questionable, so it gives me something to think about. i'm pretty sure there is no recovery for the ones that yellowed (3 of 4 in 1/2 gal cartons) since they are just a month away from curing. the other 5 goddesses have 3 times the soil volume to buffer problems i cannot fathom.
all will go to fruition, will be interesting to see the difference in yeild, taste, and effect between the sickly stunted looking ones in cartons and the more robust ones.
again thank you for any advice or suggestions that we may not have covered (or did).
while i didn't start this off as help line, i do appreciate getting so many suggestions. some of my methods are questionable, so it gives me something to think about. i'm pretty sure there is no recovery for the ones that yellowed (3 of 4 in 1/2 gal cartons) since they are just a month away from curing. the other 5 goddesses have 3 times the soil volume to buffer problems i cannot fathom.
all will go to fruition, will be interesting to see the difference in yeild, taste, and effect between the sickly stunted looking ones in cartons and the more robust ones.
again thank you for any advice or suggestions that we may not have covered (or did).
Last edited:
suprise, suprise!
just scoped the trichs on these girls and they have a much shorter flowering time (50 days) than the widows (75 days min.), and are beginning to show amber trichs. have begun final flush, and from precursory evaluation am seriously impressed with trichome production, even in the 1/2 gal cartons.
and after reconsidering my soil recipe am convinced the curl was from overwatering!.
i have other plants in the same soil recipe that have never been affected in this manner, using the same same and geting different shit...could be genetic propensity. just sayin'.
at any rate, i will pop some more of these same beans in different soil to compare, and to select a mother to keep.
just scoped the trichs on these girls and they have a much shorter flowering time (50 days) than the widows (75 days min.), and are beginning to show amber trichs. have begun final flush, and from precursory evaluation am seriously impressed with trichome production, even in the 1/2 gal cartons.
and after reconsidering my soil recipe am convinced the curl was from overwatering!.
i have other plants in the same soil recipe that have never been affected in this manner, using the same same and geting different shit...could be genetic propensity. just sayin'.
at any rate, i will pop some more of these same beans in different soil to compare, and to select a mother to keep.
B
B. Self Reliant
I had the same leaf curl issue when I switched to LED lighting from HPS. The temp n my room went down drastically, and as a result the plants were losing less water to evaporation, and I was watering them the same amount as before. After looking into the curling issue I figured out that the curling leaves meant the plant was trying to expel moisture from it's leaves but couldn't do it fast enough (at least that's the way I understand it).
The good thing was that I found it very easy to fix. My AK-47's simply wanted more perlite in their mix, and my LA Confidential just wanted to be watered less.
If you find a fast finishing plant with a decent yield and good stone, would you consider keeping it even though your original plan was to find a dude?
absofuckingtutely!!! B. Self Reliant!
the suprise is that these are encrusted with trichomes. considerably more than say, the mothers (cannot say which was the culprit, there were three strains in the same tent, one hermed), but definitely nicer coverage than i've been seeing.
i have a shitload of these beans and as soon as i can identify a likely keeper i will treat her with cs and isolate.
i put more of those seed into dirt last night just for that purpose. these are the most robust seedlings i have seen in several years.
the suprise is that these are encrusted with trichomes. considerably more than say, the mothers (cannot say which was the culprit, there were three strains in the same tent, one hermed), but definitely nicer coverage than i've been seeing.
i have a shitload of these beans and as soon as i can identify a likely keeper i will treat her with cs and isolate.
i put more of those seed into dirt last night just for that purpose. these are the most robust seedlings i have seen in several years.
