Seems H2o2 does neutralise Chlorine, best thing ive learnt for a long time.
Whats Your ph ??
- Thread starter stj2006
- Start date
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greenmatter
so how much citric/ascorbic acid/molasses do you use to get rid of the chloramine? how long does it take? could you expand on this?
hey greenmatter, i think ascorbic acid is the 'tried and tested' way of removing chloramine, but here is a post from microbeman that talks about various methods.
personally im not sure about h202, it is a strong antimicrobial and there seems to be some disagreement on whether it works
personally im not sure about h202, it is a strong antimicrobial and there seems to be some disagreement on whether it works
G
greenmatter
thanks for the info green. i knew about the h2o2 but was always stumped on what to do about chloramines. h2o2 would be a really bad mix with the microherd unless you waited for it break down, but if you have to wait anyway why use it. if you were running a clean system maybe you could do the h2o2 for the chlorine, wait 20-30 minutes and then do citric or ascorbic for the chloramines. inside an hour and you would have good water. does that sound like it would work to you? 3 grams on 100 gallons is nothing, but you might need to use some ph up to balance the brew in the end. anyone with input?
Oh the H2o2 works but produces Chlorates(via chlorites)/oxyanions in the oxidising process, im not sure of the implications of these chlorates even though they are oxidised. The stuff ive been reading on it is way way over my little brain!
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greenmatter
been there man. sucks when you have to click on every blue word on the wikipedia page and still don't really get what you just read
LOL, but i still learn a great deal doing that kind of stuff, yeah im with ya man. i'd need a phd in chemistry to understand most of it"!
i like to let my water stand for 48 hours it makes the lime scale stick to the bottle rather than my soil.
hey V im gonna try the citric and mollasas thing, also i have a pond near me can i use that water instead of tap, i am always worried about the potential bugs in it.
hey V im gonna try the citric and mollasas thing, also i have a pond near me can i use that water instead of tap, i am always worried about the potential bugs in it.
the other benefit of letting your water sit in the growroom or somewhere warm is that it is a better temp to water the plants. cold water straight on warm roots isnt ideal.
I let my water sit in 5 gals buckets for 48 hours, and then use PH down to get it to around 7 before adding nutes.
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e4ian
dug this out:[3rd attempt of putting up!,company name was folded down on 2nd attempt! .i just dont see whats offensive.here goes.. ] .
, :4.0,5.0,6.0,6.5,7.0,8.0,8.5. ..[ahaaaaaaa,middle words 'optimum'! not opium,maybe ]
physics are a bit different for nft,but i stand the water a bit for the coir
[chlorine's rife straight out the tap]. -If you grow with soil use hydrated lime. always sorts the ph out.
eee.
'thought', "why did the nips build a nuclear power plant by the sea in the first place?.did they not have 'quakes in 1971 or summat?" 'd'
'2nd thought' SHIMA, FUK'U
physics are a bit different for nft,but i stand the water a bit for the coir
[chlorine's rife straight out the tap]. -If you grow with soil use hydrated lime. always sorts the ph out.
eee.
'thought', "why did the nips build a nuclear power plant by the sea in the first place?.did they not have 'quakes in 1971 or summat?" 'd'
'2nd thought' SHIMA, FUK'U
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JB72
Member
I used to adjust my ph using lemon juice but it was all over the place, since switching to coco I use proper ph down for coco and my plants have thanked me for it, I dont know about anyone else but I mix my nutes up first then adjust the ph as I've found coco nutes bring the ph down slightly anyway.
My ph sits anywhere between 7.4 and 7.8 which is why you should always check your ph religiously.
My ph sits anywhere between 7.4 and 7.8 which is why you should always check your ph religiously.
stj2006
Member
There is a great wealth of infomation in this thread now thanks for the input peoples.
Does anybody boil there water first ? Is there any benefits or downsides to doing this prior to watering. Obviously allowing to cool to room temperature.
Also is it slightly below neutral PH for growing marijuana?
I need to sort out my ph issues in time for the next round. A few of the girls are pretty beat up and I can't help but think that my ph levels and soft water have made the problems worse. They are still packing on the weight and growing so it's still good imo.
Thanks again all
St Jimi
Does anybody boil there water first ? Is there any benefits or downsides to doing this prior to watering. Obviously allowing to cool to room temperature.
Also is it slightly below neutral PH for growing marijuana?
I need to sort out my ph issues in time for the next round. A few of the girls are pretty beat up and I can't help but think that my ph levels and soft water have made the problems worse. They are still packing on the weight and growing so it's still good imo.
Thanks again all
St Jimi
boiling water may reduce the hardness a bit but also removes all the oxygen which is not desirable. also uses a lot of energy.
good organic soil with enough compost/humus will help to buffer the soil to a large extent - but its so easy to reduce the watering pH that i think its well worth doing if your pH is over 7.5-8.
i aim for about 6 when reducing my water pH with citric acid, but im not to fussy - anywhere between 5 and 7 will do, i know the dolomite lime in the soil will help reduce any excess acidity
incidentally ive been noticing that my regular dash of citric acid solution seemed to be redeucing my pH more than usual - and i measured my tapwater today and it was 6.6!
its been solid around 8.5-9 for the last 2 years. maybe they forgot to add the lime at the water board or have changed their policy....
good organic soil with enough compost/humus will help to buffer the soil to a large extent - but its so easy to reduce the watering pH that i think its well worth doing if your pH is over 7.5-8.
i aim for about 6 when reducing my water pH with citric acid, but im not to fussy - anywhere between 5 and 7 will do, i know the dolomite lime in the soil will help reduce any excess acidity
incidentally ive been noticing that my regular dash of citric acid solution seemed to be redeucing my pH more than usual - and i measured my tapwater today and it was 6.6!
its been solid around 8.5-9 for the last 2 years. maybe they forgot to add the lime at the water board or have changed their policy....
Boiling shouldn't make much difference w/regular tap water....you might precipitate a small amount of limescale (CaCO3 = chalk) out, but probably not enough to make a huge difference.
Yes....in soil 6.0 to 7.0 is where you want to be.
Soft water (from wiki):
Water softening methods mainly rely on the removal of Ca2+ and Mg2+ from a solution or the sequestration of these ions, i.e. binding them to a molecule that removes their ability to form scale or interfere with detergents. Removal is achieved by ion exchange and by precipitation methods. Sequestration entails the addition of chemical compounds called sequestration (or chelating) agents.
Since Ca2+ and Mg2+ exist as nonvolatile salts, they can be removed by distilling the water, but distillation is too expensive in most cases (rainwater is soft because it is, in effect, distilled).
Ion-exchange materials contain sodium ions (Na+) that are electrostatically bound and that readily are replaced by hardness ions such as Ca2+ and Mg2+. Ion exchange resins are organic polymers containing anionic functional groups to which the Na+ is bound. Minerals called zeolites also exhibits ion-exchange properties; these minerals are widely used in laundry detergents.
In English:
Naturally soft water (such as in the Lake District) has a low EC i.e. very little crap in it - because it's basically just rainwater. Water that has been artificially "softened", has had the Cal and Mag (which are OK) replaced with Sodium (which is bad).....so it depends on whether you have naturally soft or artificially soft water.
The whole point of softening water is to make it make more bubbles when you use soap or detergent.
Try using soap in the sea....it doesn't work....
Yes....in soil 6.0 to 7.0 is where you want to be.
Soft water (from wiki):
Water softening methods mainly rely on the removal of Ca2+ and Mg2+ from a solution or the sequestration of these ions, i.e. binding them to a molecule that removes their ability to form scale or interfere with detergents. Removal is achieved by ion exchange and by precipitation methods. Sequestration entails the addition of chemical compounds called sequestration (or chelating) agents.
Since Ca2+ and Mg2+ exist as nonvolatile salts, they can be removed by distilling the water, but distillation is too expensive in most cases (rainwater is soft because it is, in effect, distilled).
Ion-exchange materials contain sodium ions (Na+) that are electrostatically bound and that readily are replaced by hardness ions such as Ca2+ and Mg2+. Ion exchange resins are organic polymers containing anionic functional groups to which the Na+ is bound. Minerals called zeolites also exhibits ion-exchange properties; these minerals are widely used in laundry detergents.
In English:
Naturally soft water (such as in the Lake District) has a low EC i.e. very little crap in it - because it's basically just rainwater. Water that has been artificially "softened", has had the Cal and Mag (which are OK) replaced with Sodium (which is bad).....so it depends on whether you have naturally soft or artificially soft water.
The whole point of softening water is to make it make more bubbles when you use soap or detergent.
Try using soap in the sea....it doesn't work....
STUPPA
Member
No try not to boil the water it will make it even worse , it is alright to use a small amount to increase your temp a bit tho.
Also try not use the water out of the hot tap and if your cold water has not run for a while (several hours or overnight) always let the tap run for a few minutes before you collect your water.
The water in the pipes and hot tank will corrode and pick up traces of copper from the pipes over time. copper is not good for your plants!
stj2006
Member
Dont know if it makes any difference really but I like to use the water from the shower set too a slightly warmer setting than freezing cold. So i'm assuming it is using the cold water supply then a heating element is warming the water.
So Im going to de-chlorinate by leaving to evaporate for 48hrs, and also try to amend the ph with some form of citric acid. Can't hurt to experiment. I'm not going to worry about all this chloramite business, but it is good infomation none the less.
Okay another question, what about using water from a dehumidifier? As i understand it this water would have little mineral content very low ppm. So it would be lacking in beneficial elements.
St Jimi
So Im going to de-chlorinate by leaving to evaporate for 48hrs, and also try to amend the ph with some form of citric acid. Can't hurt to experiment. I'm not going to worry about all this chloramite business, but it is good infomation none the less.
Okay another question, what about using water from a dehumidifier? As i understand it this water would have little mineral content very low ppm. So it would be lacking in beneficial elements.
St Jimi
stj2006
Member
Just realised I have been reading my test strips wrong, I am actually around 8. Just got some ph down and around 4 drops brings me somewhere between 6-7 ph. Silly me, can't remember much of gcse chemistry, or biology I'm sure if I was interested in weed back then I would have paid more attention, or maybe not come to think about it.
St Jimi
St Jimi
