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My first PC grow, S.A.C. OG KUSH!

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
wow clean build!

it's all good with the diff bulbs. most people alternate them tho (it looks like you've got them blue on left/yellow on right)

the other thing about fluoros is that you want to put your plants real close to the bulbs, like 1"-2" seriously. if you've got good ventilation they shouldn't burn unless they physically touch the bulbs. this will also keep them from stretching as much (tighter nodes = more bud in smaller spaces).

looks like you have some sort of adjustable set up so just jump those babies up there near the top.

i guess you should prob keep an eye on the temp for the first 12-24 hours just to make sure there's still good airflow and whatnot.
 

CannMan

New member
Clones can dry out quite quickly the first couple of days . I would add a little water where the plug is. (thats where your roots are right now till they start to grow. Not alot of water just make sure the rooting cube gets wet. I've got great clones from PNC in the past. I have Shit, 93 Super Skunk, Apollo 13 and Valley OG coming down this week. Good Luck.
 

microbox

Member
nice cab, she should bush out by herself the way you got the lights up , you could start to tie her down now , or top when she start to grow nodes straight up
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
looks like my plants when i underwater them (like my clones right now actually). they're prob thirsty. i'd stick with the plain water for now.

i've found that sometimes young plants like to get lightly watered twice a day, rather than drenched 1x a day or every other day.

also i've heard those 70w get pretty hot. are you keeping an eye on temperature/humidity?
 

Sgt.Stedenko

Crotchety Cabaholic
Veteran
You should be able to get a clone to root using any color cfl. I dont think it's the choice of bulb color.
Those sure dont look like 70 watt cfls. I dont see how you could put two end to end and fit them in a standard atx case. Sure those aren't 42 watters?
 

ItGrows

Member
They look like they are all 23w bulbs. maybe mimic the 70w incandescent. I would guess you might have a heat problem. build yourself a light trap where the light leaks. You dont want to insulate that case in a dresser. I know you said it stays at a steady 76* but I just dont see how it could be pulling in fresh cool air if its closed into a dresser. Let that soil dry out. I like to water from the sides. Just my guesses.
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
your plant is looking way happier, congrats!

i usually top after the 4th or 5th node. but if you want to try and clone it, wait for it to grow 2x that, then when you're ready you'll have a nice cutting, and you can get a second plant out of it if you're lucky.

otherwise, you can snip or pinch off the new growth after the 4th or 5th node. expect slowed growth for a few days while she recovers from the shock, but then she'll take off with some new branches.
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
i see the arrow now. yea i'd even go two nodes lower (node = where a fan leaf (and eventually a new branch) grow out from the stem), just because we're all micro here.

basically what you're doing is redirecting energy from the main stem to those side branches. if you want it really squat, top it after the 4th node. if you top it where your arrow is, you'll get 5 or 6 main branches, but they'll be a little wimpier, esp the ones on the bottom.

since your'e scrogging you wont really need a second round of topping, since training the plant to the screen produces new shoots kind of like LST.

basically what i did with my screen was top after the 4th or 5th node, then i selected the three strongest branches, and trimmed off the other shoots, so that all the energy would go to those three. then i vegged that out for a week or so, until those three had a few nodes of their own. i could have topped again here, but instead i started training to the screen at this point. those three stems keep growing longer and stronger, and meanwhile they produce new shoots at most of their nodes. as the new shoots grow through the screen, you tuck them back under, and they start producing new shoots of their own.

keep training the plant till your screen is like 80% full, then flip to flower. at this point, leave all the new shoots that come up through the screen alone. these will be your "colas."

the more evenly you space them, the more efficiently they'll grow. a crowded screen will produce more small buds, and if you thin it out a bit, you'll get less but bigger nugs.

also, once you start filling the screen, you can keep the "legs" under the screen severely trimmed. anything growing down there is only stealing energy from the top of the plant, and if you do allow it to grow you'll only get shitty little popcorn nothings from down there.

here's a shitty picture but it kinda illustrates what i'm talking about:

picture.php
 

Moots

Member
I'd for sure top it, at least once. Looked like you had a screen and were going to scrog it. I'd suggest that or LST. Keeps your canopy level.

Im in a similar situation. First time, 1 plant, some cfls, although I am in a small cabinet. Keep the lights close, I get nodes appearing in very close proximity to each other that way thus far. I topped at my fourth node, as height is an issue.

I'd personally suggest LST to ya (I've never Scrogged) but LST is almost fool proof, and very low tech. After tying down the main branch (which now runs completely horizontally about 3/4 of an inch above the soil.

Since tying down the main branch, all of the side branches have exploded, grown up to the lights, and now all act more like the main branch. Its super easy, I use some hemp twine, and some elastics around the pot, so it holds down branches but won't cut into them.

You could tie down that main stem, and have it grow almost all the way along the width of your pot or rubbermaid, and all of the side branches will grow up from that. Super easy.
 
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