GH 3 PART Plus Additives

[Ganjagrower1]

good morning icmagers. I have been growing now for a few years and i have been doing hydro. I have jumped into soil and i have not seen much difference with what i am doing.

I know hydro you are suppose to change out your nutes every week or two. but in soil how many times to you feed a week. do you feed everyday or do you skip a day.

I am using micro, bloom, floralicious plus, and kool bloom liquid.
5ml 10ml 1ml 5ml Per gallon...

any kind of advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bunz]

Only water when the plants need it. When growing in soil, you want to give the soil a chance to dry out before watering again. Use the "lift" method. Pick up a pot that you just watered and feel how heavy it is. Next pick up a pot that needs to be water and feel how heavy it is. This is how you know when the plants need to be watered.

I only feed every other watering. Feed, water, feed, water, etc.

HTH

Bunz

 

[Midnight]

Water when they need it. If you are not sure get a water stick. As far as the GH nutes, I use them and get excellent results in soil. Below is a feed schedule I would highly recommend (courtesy of useless).


OK, I figured I would post this here, since some folks are asking about the GH 3 part.
This is my feed schedule -

Here is the nutrient regimen I use and how I control PH with little or no ph up or down...

So OK - feeding schedule week by week. This is the GH weekly feeding program, slightly tweaked. I will only call out the volume of each part per gallon of water in the following manner: grow, micro, bloom, ppm range. Example - 5-2.5-2.5-400/800 would mean 5 ml grow, 2.5 ml micro, 2.5 ml bloom and a ppm of 400-880. Remember it's per gallon. You Euro's can easily convert to liters. 4 liters is just a little bit over 1 gallon. It should also be noted that I use the hardwater micro due to my tapwater. I suggest using the hardwater micro in place of the regular micro if your tap water is over 200 ppm total or you have over 70 ppm Ca. RO water users should use the regular micro.
Veg -
week 1 5-2.5-2.5-400/600
week 2 10-5-3- 600/800
week 3 12-6-3 800/1000 (continue week 3 formula if additional veg time is required.)

Bloom
week 1 6-6-10- 800/1200
week 2 3-7-12 - 1000/1400
week 3 3-8-14 - 1000/1400
week 4 3-8-16 - 1000/1400
week 5 (discussed in detail below*)
week 6 0-7-20 - 1000/1400
week 7 0-6-20 (see bleow**)
* During week 5 if not using a booster like Superbud, Bushmaster Kabloom etc. run 2.5-7-18. I use MOAB (Mother of All Blooms) or BushMaster at 50% of recommended strength, and use 1.25-3.5-9 for the fert base.
**If running an 8 week strain you should only run the ferts during week 7 for a maximum of 3-4 days. This gives you 10 days for flushing. I should note that if I use ferts for a few days in week 7, I take the lants over the 8 week mark. Personally I flush for a min of 14 days. But 10 is bare minimum imo/ime.

The ppms work out almost exactly. I tend to lean toward the lower side of the range, unless I have a really heavy feeder that I know can handle it.

At every ressy change out I add in 5 drops per gallon of 35% food grade H2O2. During flush use ph adjusted water at 5.5-6.0
I will add epsom salt at week 1 of bloom if the plants are heavy feeders AND I see signs of an Mg def. Otherwise I won't use it. The only time I have ever had Mg def is during transition. The GH 3 part is a little low on Mg, but the PBP and Canna nutes are way lower.

Now- how to control your PH...
There are a couple factors that cause your PH to drift. The most common is running the nute solution too strong or too weak. If it's too strong, your PH drops. If it's too weak the PH rises. You have to find the balance point. If you find that theformula above is say, a little strong, and say you have a 20 gallon ressy, mix the nutes for 18 gallons. If it's a little weak, mix it for 22 gallons. You follow?
The other common mistake is mixing your nutrient solution and trying to adjust the PH right away. You have to allow time for the ph buffers in the nutrient solution to do their job. Mix the nutes up, and bubble or circulate for 12 hours before even looking at your PH. You will find the PH to be almost right on target.
I use little or no ph adjusters. (Except during flush). I use tap water, with a starting PPM of 300-400 and a starting PH of 7.4-9.0 (Thats crazy you say! The water is too hard, you will never get stable PH and you will have too much Ca, causing a lockout of Mg!) Bollocks I say.
Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don't have to.
Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30 ml.if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8.

If you are still having PH issues using the above method, an alternative is to PH adjust the plain water to 5.5 BEFORE you add nutes.

 

[shrpshooter]

midnight said it perfectly shrpshooter

 

[Marquis de Sod]

wow, maybe THAT'S why all my plants sucked! i just mixed the ferts in, ph'd them with up, because of the seaweed extract i put in, and watered immediately thereafter. i left my water in the fish tank at least overnight to get the chlorine out is all. never showed signs of ph lockout tho, just shitty plants with not big buds. coulda been other things as well, like no leaving the fan blowing at night, clapped out strain etc. generally not knowing what i'm doing. maybe i need to take out the one fish and just raise fertilized water.

i am currently having problems. but not using GH anymore. using biobizz bloom and budswel, maybe same thing tho, but i am not ph adjusting either. using much less seaweed extract, only 5ml/gal instead of 15. but probably could trace my probs to this

 

[Ganjagrower1]

Water when they need it. If you are not sure get a water stick. As far as the GH nutes, I use them and get excellent results in soil. Below is a feed schedule I would highly recommend (courtesy of useless).


OK, I figured I would post this here, since some folks are asking about the GH 3 part.
This is my feed schedule -

Here is the nutrient regimen I use and how I control PH with little or no ph up or down...

So OK - feeding schedule week by week. This is the GH weekly feeding program, slightly tweaked. I will only call out the volume of each part per gallon of water in the following manner: grow, micro, bloom, ppm range. Example - 5-2.5-2.5-400/800 would mean 5 ml grow, 2.5 ml micro, 2.5 ml bloom and a ppm of 400-880. Remember it's per gallon. You Euro's can easily convert to liters. 4 liters is just a little bit over 1 gallon. It should also be noted that I use the hardwater micro due to my tapwater. I suggest using the hardwater micro in place of the regular micro if your tap water is over 200 ppm total or you have over 70 ppm Ca. RO water users should use the regular micro.
Veg -
week 1 5-2.5-2.5-400/600
week 2 10-5-3- 600/800
week 3 12-6-3 800/1000 (continue week 3 formula if additional veg time is required.)

Bloom
week 1 6-6-10- 800/1200
week 2 3-7-12 - 1000/1400
week 3 3-8-14 - 1000/1400
week 4 3-8-16 - 1000/1400
week 5 (discussed in detail below*)
week 6 0-7-20 - 1000/1400
week 7 0-6-20 (see bleow**)
* During week 5 if not using a booster like Superbud, Bushmaster Kabloom etc. run 2.5-7-18. I use MOAB (Mother of All Blooms) or BushMaster at 50% of recommended strength, and use 1.25-3.5-9 for the fert base.
**If running an 8 week strain you should only run the ferts during week 7 for a maximum of 3-4 days. This gives you 10 days for flushing. I should note that if I use ferts for a few days in week 7, I take the lants over the 8 week mark. Personally I flush for a min of 14 days. But 10 is bare minimum imo/ime.

The ppms work out almost exactly. I tend to lean toward the lower side of the range, unless I have a really heavy feeder that I know can handle it.

At every ressy change out I add in 5 drops per gallon of 35% food grade H2O2. During flush use ph adjusted water at 5.5-6.0
I will add epsom salt at week 1 of bloom if the plants are heavy feeders AND I see signs of an Mg def. Otherwise I won't use it. The only time I have ever had Mg def is during transition. The GH 3 part is a little low on Mg, but the PBP and Canna nutes are way lower.

Now- how to control your PH...
There are a couple factors that cause your PH to drift. The most common is running the nute solution too strong or too weak. If it's too strong, your PH drops. If it's too weak the PH rises. You have to find the balance point. If you find that theformula above is say, a little strong, and say you have a 20 gallon ressy, mix the nutes for 18 gallons. If it's a little weak, mix it for 22 gallons. You follow?
The other common mistake is mixing your nutrient solution and trying to adjust the PH right away. You have to allow time for the ph buffers in the nutrient solution to do their job. Mix the nutes up, and bubble or circulate for 12 hours before even looking at your PH. You will find the PH to be almost right on target.
I use little or no ph adjusters. (Except during flush). I use tap water, with a starting PPM of 300-400 and a starting PH of 7.4-9.0 (Thats crazy you say! The water is too hard, you will never get stable PH and you will have too much Ca, causing a lockout of Mg!) Bollocks I say.
Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don't have to.
Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30 ml.if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8.

If you are still having PH issues using the above method, an alternative is to PH adjust the plain water to 5.5 BEFORE you add nutes.

so you had posted 6 6 10 for the first week. now are you talking about using grow micro and bloom nutes. i am a little confused. if so i have not been using any grow during my flower.

 

[Ganjagrower1]

ok here is day 18 of flower. this is sour grape.

 

[softyellowlight]

Make sure you water until there is a decent amount of run-off waste water coming out!

 

[driftersmokinjo]

I have found that with soil it is hard to stay with a weekly feeding schedule. I bought the gh 3 part with intentions of trying to get a feeding schedule going but was having a hard time keeping up with it so I switched to the Lucas 2 part method and haven't looked back. I still have a unopened bottle of gh flora grow I will use in the out door grow.

 

[Ganjagrower1]

yeah so far i have not used the grow during flower. i am not sure is this has any effect on what i am doing but i have not noticed any difference. so i am all good. not all i have to do is perfect what i have going on now and i will have some nice nugs.

 

[Ganjagrower1]

i have been doing a little research on the sour grape strain. this is my first time growing this strain. it says it only takes 7 to 8 weeks indoors. 49 to 56 days of flowering that is pretty good. this strain seems to knock off some time i like that it is done pretty early. gives you time to do more.

 

[deepcover]

1-1-1 all the way through G-M-B is simple and works. Lucas also works although I think 1-1-1 is better suited if you choose to use a bloom booster. Remember when feeding in soilless CEC means buildup of nutes... at least occasionally check runoff to see what is going on in the root zone. For feed either try feed-water-water or feed 1/3 str. constantly with periodic flush. your goal is to keep the rootzone fed. you may be feeding @ 800 ppm but rootzone buildup might mean your are @ 1500 ppm.

 

[Ganjagrower1]

here is a little update. this is day 21 and they are starting to smell pretty good. i cant wait to smoke some sour grape.

 

[Ganjagrower1]

ok here is day 22

 

[itisme]

Good post. Thx

 

[Ganjagrower1]

ok here we are. these are at day 28.
it is suppose to be an 8 week strain so i will see what happens.

 

[Ganjagrower1]

Alright i am at day 32 and i just did a plain watering last night. I am going to hit them with some gravity and kool bloom powder for the next couple of weeks. then i am going to do a flush.