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LED panel help please

N

ninjacorey

Member
Hey ICEMAG. :tiphat:
NinjaCorey here, stopping by to get some help. So if you’re good with electronics (wiring and configuration). I have a small stealth grow and had a small HPS light in it. I had to take it out due to heating problems. So I decided to make me a custom LED light panel. I was wondering if my list sounds right and if my panel will work. So just let me know.

I am planning on using LEDENGIN LZ1 5w series. The colors I will be using is Warm White (3100k), Blue (465nm), Red (625nm), Deep Red (660nm), Far Red (725nm – 745nm).


LEDs:
Red: 2.5v, 625nm, 1A, 5w

Deep Red: 2.9v, 660nm, 1A, 5w

Far Red: 2.6v, 725-745nm, 1A, 5w

Blue: 3.6v, 465nm, 1A, 5w

Warm White: 3.6v, 3100k, 1A, 5w

Resistors:
Red: 2.2 ohms 5w

Deep Red: 1 ohm 3w

Far Red: 1.8 ohms 3w

Blue/White: 1.2 ohms 3w

Power Supply: 12v 90w 7.5A

Does this sound right? Did I miss anything? Should I change anything?
I plan on making the panel, find something to encase it in and add 2 intake and 1 exhaust fan.


I plan on using 8 x Red, 4 x Far Red, 4 x Deep Red, 4 x White, 5 x Blue
So I have a 3.2:1 Red to Blue ratio. Good enough?

The panel design is as follow. :artist:


R = Red
D = Deep Red
F = Far Red
W = Warm White
B = Blue


RF DFR
RBWBR
DWBWD
RBWBR
RFDFR


Any other designs are welcome. I don’t know if this design will work. And I don’t know where to place resistors. So help on a design that will work with resistors would help.
Need more info just let me know.

Thank you :thank you: – Ninja Corey
 
xcogollox

xcogollox

Member
hi ninjacorey,

visit http://www.cannabiscafe.net/foros/forumdisplay.php/212-Cultivo-con-Leds , is in spanish languaje but the best information about DIY Led homemade

i recommend LED type Osram GoldenDragon,GDPlus(red,blue,white) or Dominant KNOVA red,SPnova deep red(but this model is too little for hand soldering, little problems:ying:)

the panels is demostrating,and (my self view and experience),
no resistors on the circuit,

for protections is better zener diode

your configurations is ok but ,the white moore distance for psychotropism of the plants,

RFWFR
RBDBR
WDBDW
RBDBR
RFWFR

greetings,

P.D:exuse my languaje
 
xcogollox

xcogollox

Member
google translate bro, and look at the pictures to make things easier and take ideas
is ttechnical languaje

assembly tutorial hand soldering,model cree led,osram golden dragon, dominant knova/SPnova
http://www.cannabiscafe.net/foros/showthread.php/141007-Tutorial-montaje-LEDs

go led world:tiphat:

P.D:you power supply is 12v??seems to fall short
and 7.5A ---->is adjustable??remember your diodes are 1A
you configuration 8xRed: 2.5v, 625nm, 1-1,5A max, 5w
2,5vx8=20v exceeded without the rest
 
xcogollox

xcogollox

Member
never PCB with HIGH POWER LEDS,
the assembly is on the aluminium(like the windows aluminiums),or defect MCPCB,
aluminium is one of the best materials dissipation for our case
the tape is KAPTON
 
M

MrBlue2

Member
IMO it would be better for you to switch to CFL's instead of LED's they yield about the same but the CFL's will give you a better quality product.
 
N

ninjacorey

Member
well im thinkin about running both..... right now i took out the HPS and placed in CFL. Also i have a ? if i was to run a series of.. red,red,white,red,red. would i need a resistor in between the red,white,red? how should resistors be placed?
update on diagram.... might run
where would i place resistors?

RFWFR
RBDBR
WDBDW
RBDBR
RFWFR
 
S

sm0k4

Wattage is wattage. Its how you use it that determines the buds.

Your panel design is missing lots of parts to grasp your goal.

Cabinet size would be needed. From that you want to be sure to have minimum 250 W/m^2.

With 5W LEDs running at 1A you will have some heat to worry about. You need to be sure your heat sinks can handle the wattage you want to put on them.

Not sure what you mean by resistors. If you mean to take a resistor and put it in series with the string to limit the current, this is not the way to go about it. These LEDs need a constant current source and a resistor won't cut it when the LED heats up changing the forward voltage and current. You can buy constant current drivers that you can plug into the wall, or build your own if you can read datasheets and follow design apps.

Lots of things to consider when going LED.
 
N

ninjacorey

Member
i was looking at the Drivers. would that be the best way to go? if i use one will i need resistors? also would it be better to link up in parallel or series?
i been reading up and it says better in series. this is also why im asking for help :p
so if u know well into LED and wanna help me out feel free to.
 
S

sm0k4

ninjacorey said:
i was looking at the Drivers. would that be the best way to go? if i use one will i need resistors? also would it be better to link up in parallel or series?
i been reading up and it says better in series. this is also why im asking for help :p
so if u know well into LED and wanna help me out feel free to.
Click to expand...

I have been researching this for the last month or so and have a couple prototype lights built with my own driver running off of a switching AC/DC converter. The light design is based off of KNNA's tutorial on another forum. Google DIY LED Array and it should be the first hit. I just ran with that to build my own by adding a home-brew driver and switching up the design a bit.

Yes, get a constant current driver if you are inexperienced with electronics. Your LEDs will burn out prematurely if you just use a resistor. They are relatively cheap and efficient enough. Aluminum or copper is the heat sink material to go with also. Usually Aluminum can be bought in angle or U channel as 6 and 8 feet sections. Or you can get Aluminum heat sink extrusions for better efficiency and more wattage per sink.

First thing you might want to do is Figure out how many LEDs you want to run in a string and then add their forward Voltages to get the total voltage for the string, then pick the driver. Or if you know the driver you want to use, take the output voltage of that driver and subtract the forward voltages until you are close to zero without going under 0. Take Osram Golden Dragons, the 660 nm reds run at 2.2V @ 400mA. If I were to run 8 of these in 1 string that would be 8 x 2.2V =17.6Volts. Osram GD Blue and Whites both run around the same Vf. The ones I have here are running at 3.2V @ 400mA. If I want to run 5 of these in a string, that would be 16V.

If you mix LED colors in the same strand, you will be restricted to the same current on each LED and either under driving blue and white or over driving red. Also, you still need to still add the Vf of each LED and get it as close to your driver output voltage without going over. In my case I have 4 reds, 2 blue, and 2 white on my driver. The total voltage these want to draw is (4x2.2V)+(2x3.2V)+(2x3.2V)=21.6 Volts. I have a 24 volt supply feeding my string that I can adjust. I adjusted my supply to 22.2 Volts because the driver IC I am using needs at least .5V left over after the LED drop.

Hope that made sense :)

It is ideal to separate Red from B/W and run on two drivers with separate currents, but not necessary and would cost more for small setup that only requires 1 driver. I am running a mix string right now all at 500mA and the reds seem to be doing OK. Very important to calculate heat sink cooling capacity and not go over that unless you want to add active cooling via fans.
 
N

ninjacorey

Member
How do u have ur light set up as in PCB or wat? also what kind of heatsink u have and u know anygood website to browse LED, Heat sinks...etc
 
S

sm0k4

ninjacorey said:
How do u have ur light set up as in PCB or wat? also what kind of heatsink u have and u know anygood website to browse LED, Heat sinks...etc
Click to expand...


LEDs

Osram Golden Dragon Plus

LH W5AM-1T3T (Hyper Red, 660nm)
LR W5AM-HZJZ (Red, 625nm)
LD W5AM-1T1U (Deep Blue, 455nm)
LUW W5AM-KYLX (Ultra White 6500K)


These will be easiest to mount and are up at the top of the LED tech heap with Cree and Luxeon. Their new 660 nm hyper reds are really efficient, bin 2T.

You can use Cree and Luxeon but they are more expensive due to you needing to pretty much buy them on a star already.

Osrams can be ordered from Digikey or Mouser. There is also a store called custom hydro nutrients that also has started selling them. The bins specifically tested for growing. All recommended by KNNA.

Yes, I designed my driver and have PCBs being sent atm. I am going with Aluminum extrusion profiles for my heatsinks to mount the LEDs to. They will cost around $180 for a quantity of 13 bars that are 20 inches long by 1.5 inches wide. My light is going to cover a 3'x2' area.

Here are some of my pics to give you an idea on the light. This is just a 6 inch long prototype.

 
S

sm0k4

ninjacorey said:
how would i find the right driver and power source. and i like the dragon plus. what mA should i run it?
Click to expand...

They sell drivers that plug into the wall already if you don't want to build your own. They usually wind up being more expensive for the good ones. Mean Well sells some nice constant current drivers.

These are some examples

http://www.ledsupply.com/lightech.php
http://www.meanwell.com/webnet/search/seriessearch.html#led

As for the current to run them at. Depends on your heat sinks and power limitations. You need to calculate it based on the data sheets that can be found here.

For me I think I will run my red strings at 500mA-600mA and blue/white strings at 600-700mA. Depending on my heat sink's ability to cool them.

Proper mounting to allow for best thermal transfer is crucial for a long lasting light. double sided copper foil like 3M's part #1182 is ok, but using a thermal pad would transfer the heat better.
 
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