Leaf Issues - Help!

[beans4theladies]

So, i the last week my leaves start to do this across different strains.

Front side of leaf 1 ^^^^

Back side of Leaf 2 VVVVVVV

Leaf 2 vvvvvv

And last shot of lots of leaves VVVVV

 

[kronic420smoke]

looks like spider mites 2 me bro see the lil white spots ? ..look under ur leaves with a magnifying glass look for lil redish brown or black bugs moving around..if u got em get some neem oil it should clear em up

 

[qbert]

ditto on the spider mites, those spots are the tell-tale sign.

Neem can be ok, I'd look at Azamax or Monterey's Garden Spray with spinosad too.

Better move quickly too. Get some and spray asap. You will have to repeat applications because these insectisides generally won't harm the eggs - and mites are practically born pregnant with significantly more than half the population female on average.

 

[Stress_test]

Spidermites looks right.
If you need a fast cure, mix 1 can of frozen concentrate apple juice with 7 cans water and spray em down once a day for a week. They will look beautiful in a week too, you will want to keep spraying them.

 

[Wingnutt]

Although you may have spider mites, that is not causing the leaf burning you are seeing on your plants. If you do have spider mites, you caught it early and should be able to keep a handle on it as long as you are persistent. Keep spraying even after you don't see anymore bugs.

The leaf burning is most likely being caused by a lockout. The lockout looks to be caused by over-fertilization. The many burned lower leaves lead me to think this. If you don't have a pH/PPM meter, then make the investment. You'll want to flush your soil. First measure the PPM of the water going in ( I would pH it to 6 for a baseline). Then, water slowly until water comes out the bottom of the pot. Watering slowly is key. You need to let the water sit in the soil for a bit and absorb the salts and waste before it runs out of the pot.

Next, collect a sample of the runoff water as soon as it comes out of the bottom of the pot. Test the PPM and the pH to get an idea of where your medium is at. If your pH is out of whack or your PPMs are high (this is strain dependent but I would say on average that 300-600 is on the low end, 600-900 is average, 900+ is strong and will burn most plants.

If your pH is too high, say 7.0 for Coco grow whose target is 5.8-6.2, then you want to flush with a slightly acidic solution - maybe go as low as 5.6 until your pH gets back to an acceptable level. I wouldn't recommend swinging the pH more than .5-.7 in a single flush or you risk shocking the plant. Also, if your pH is high but your PPM is on target, then you would want to flush with a nutrient solution, not plain water, as you would risk rinsing all the nutes out of your soil.

Make sure you set your targets based on your medium as pH and PPM targets vary from soil to coco to hydro. I highly recommend a product called Drip Clean from House & Garden. It will help you avoid your current problem - salt buildup. I know it works with hydro and soilless, not sure if it is compatible with soil.

 

[Stress_test]

Well look at this chart and see which most closely matches your leaves.

 

[beans4theladies]

Although you may have spider mites, that is not causing the leaf burning you are seeing on your plants. If you do have spider mites, you caught it early and should be able to keep a handle on it as long as you are persistent. Keep spraying even after you don't see anymore bugs.

The leaf burning is most likely being caused by a lockout. The lockout looks to be caused by over-fertilization. The many burned lower leaves lead me to think this. If you don't have a pH/PPM meter, then make the investment. You'll want to flush your soil. First measure the PPM of the water going in ( I would pH it to 6 for a baseline). Then, water slowly until water comes out the bottom of the pot. Watering slowly is key. You need to let the water sit in the soil for a bit and absorb the salts and waste before it runs out of the pot.

Next, collect a sample of the runoff water as soon as it comes out of the bottom of the pot. Test the PPM and the pH to get an idea of where your medium is at. If your pH is out of whack or your PPMs are high (this is strain dependent but I would say on average that 300-600 is on the low end, 600-900 is average, 900+ is strong and will burn most plants.

If your pH is too high, say 7.0 for Coco grow whose target is 5.8-6.2, then you want to flush with a slightly acidic solution - maybe go as low as 5.6 until your pH gets back to an acceptable level. I wouldn't recommend swinging the pH more than .5-.7 in a single flush or you risk shocking the plant. Also, if your pH is high but your PPM is on target, then you would want to flush with a nutrient solution, not plain water, as you would risk rinsing all the nutes out of your soil.

Make sure you set your targets based on your medium as pH and PPM targets vary from soil to coco to hydro. I highly recommend a product called Drip Clean from House & Garden. It will help you avoid your current problem - salt buildup. I know it works with hydro and soilless, not sure if it is compatible with soil.

You are dead on with the Nutrient Lock. The Last photo is my burkle that got accidentally NOT watered and wilted really bad like dead like. It came back after watering it but the plant shocked. I am giving this plant Distilled water until it rebounds.

Thanks for the detailed explain on testing the PH of the soil/coco. I am going to test Friday or Saturday as super busy.

I will update this thread with the numbers this weekend.

Thanks for the help.