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HELP - ARRRRGGHHHH - Pythium Again !!!!!!, Tried everything !!!!

Hi

Third grow and plants 3.5 weeks in veg and roots are going off white again. I have a RDWC system. Mega bubbles in each bubbles and control bubbler.

Totally light proof even covering pebbles/nets.
Mega cleaned system with strong H202.
Use regen a root.
Got chiller keeping nute temps at 20c.
This also flooms like crazy in control bucket.
Room spotless.
Cuts taken from different mother.


Totally lost now ????????????????
 

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
Don't know what's causing it, but physan20 works great for killing unwanted lightens in your water. What are your nutes an additives?
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Use aspirin, 325 ml. tablets of regular generic aspirin per gallon of water will boost your plants immune system, and allow them to finish, if you want. Not a cure though. Cuts, etc., will still be infected, however aspirin will allow you to harvest what you have. Must continue to give it throughout the grow.
 
Hi guys.

In UK and using ionic chemical nutes, got 120l RDWC, spotless in there. Got tri meter etc. all enviroment spot on. Mega bubbles in buckets. Chiller at 18/19c. This also supplies loads of flooming to control res..

The only thing i have not done if flush/replace nutes in system for about 3 weeks ??

I also add Canadian Express Regen root.

Why am i still getting this. They are turning slightly off colour at moment with darker brown bits at net pots where roots are out of water.


HELP !!!!
 

stoney917

i Am SoFaKiNg WeTod DiD
Veteran
The only thing i have not done if flush/replace nutes in system for about 3 weeks ?? thats it right there bro if ya would of just did that 1rst u may of saved urself some time and work.

ill tell ya 3wks no change in nute wtf all that work ya did ur gonna loose to lazyness of not changin nutes. the shit is in ur res flush everything out add ur basic chem nutes nothin organic and some h202 and u should see it improve. u gotta change ur nutes once a week 10days if ur lazy but u may start to see some bad things happen and they happen overnite. if its bad plain tap with clorine in it and h202 for a few hrs then the nutes
 
So in a recirculating system i need to empty it out once a week (not all is emptied due to tiny bit in each bucket 5 plant and one control/tpo up res).

I thought by topping up everyday with fresh nutes at correct ph/ec would be fine as it is being renewed ?

The Pythium is at a very early in stage atm and i have some H202 at 35%.

Was thinking of draing system, refilling, ph it, nute it then add some H202 at 0.28ml/l

How can the Pythium set in if i constantly top up with fresh nutes ??

Cheers
 

stoney917

i Am SoFaKiNg WeTod DiD
Veteran
u should drain it every week and add new nutes a bit of leftover is expected but it should be so minimal that it doesnt make a difference. when the run is done break down the whole system and clean it good, u will not get rid of the rr till u do that but u can battle it and finish ur grow then win the war. just keep with the chem nutes and h202. and again weekly res changes...
if u constantly top up the shit is still in there u just addin water to it. to get rid of it u have to empty and clean for u rightnow u just wanna controle it
 

Madrus Rose

post 69
Veteran
Hi

Third grow and plants 3.5 weeks in veg and roots are going off white again. I have a RDWC system. Mega bubbles in each bubbles and control bubbler.

Totally light proof even covering pebbles/nets.
Mega cleaned system with strong H202.
Use regen a root.
Got chiller keeping nute temps at 20c.
This also flooms like crazy in control bucket.
Room spotless.
Cuts taken from different mother.

Totally lost now ??????

One thing , how big is your rez ?
How many plants ?

Not having run DWC but one try some yrs ago never had problems with root rot . Know many use H202 treatments but one thing i did incorporate ongoing in regime was an --> inline UV water sterilizer which also comes in submersible versions for pond sterilizing especially for keeping valuable Koi Fish healthy . But also used in the aggy business in large DWC lettuce grows .

With only a 15watt inline UV sterilizer is all thats needed to pretty much knock out all bacterium, algae & viruses...plus most of the molds & fungi in the water ...& that includes Pythium.I bumped it up to a 30watt UV which pretty much destroys everything & leaves even a 300gal rez absolutely crystal clear after running only 24hrs .

More than a quick fix , this is whats used also to sterilize well water to the house for drinking purposes in many rural locations & also used in large DWC lettuce grows where lettuce is sold with the living roots in stores . And those roots the industry found were pure white when the Rez was sterilized with UV .

UV Pond Sterilizer (pythium & slime, things of the past !)
Very simple to add on to ...& one will last u 3yrs easily .
Many versions & mfr's out there here's one example
http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/tetra-pond/tetrapondUV.htm

best regards

;) (good tip huh ? Really works & this is what the Big Boys use !)

mrose

Algae & slime ridden pond before

UV_Pond_Before.jpg


after

UV_Pond_After.jpg
 
My control res holds about 13l as do my five bubblers, they are all 21 black buckets. I have 13mm feed line from control res which then T's of 4mm feed to each of five bubblers.
I then have 25mm return lines on each 5 buckets back to control res.

Feed line at top, return lines at bottom of 5 buckets.

This is powered by 1000lph pump.

In the control res i also have another 1000lph pump which feeds a chillers and treurns back to same bucket providing LOADS of flooming/aeration.

I also have 12" airstone in all buckets fed from powerful air pump.

Cheers
 

GanjaPharma

Member
h2o2 enzymes, yada yada, all work to a degree. if you have it right now and need it gone, search for krunchbubbles posts on bleach in your rez. scary i know, but all the megaponic greenhouses use it.

me, i use beckets pond cleaner and got out of DWC, RDWC, EFT, for good.
 

Madrus Rose

post 69
Veteran
just add a UV inline sterilizer & only need 15watt bulb
& probs with pythium , bacteria, algae etc
are things of the past .

their a little pricey but good to go for 3yrs ,
which is alot of peace of mind !

;)

Might go a little larger rez to...much less maintenance & alot more control.
 

stoney917

i Am SoFaKiNg WeTod DiD
Veteran
krunch knows his shit but bleach im gonna have to chat him up on that one.

madrus that thing seems to good to be true im gettin one thanks for the link.
 

hazy

Active member
Veteran
So in a recirculating system i need to empty it out once a week (not all is emptied due to tiny bit in each bucket 5 plant and one control/tpo up res).

I thought by topping up everyday with fresh nutes at correct ph/ec would be fine as it is being renewed ?

Cheers

Stoney gave perfect advice.

That's not the only problem with topping off your res. While you may add back nutes and water to the correct pH and the right ec. You don't know what ratio of nutes are left in the res. So, the plants may have taken up more of one thing and when you add back, that ratio will go more and more off with each top off and that will lead to nutrient antagonisms as the plants have too much of something and not enough of another, etc.

Add to it during the week, but then a complete change to start back fresh with good nutes.
 

Madrus Rose

post 69
Veteran
krunch knows his shit but bleach im gonna have to chat him up on that one.

madrus that thing seems to good to be true im gettin one thanks for the link.

one caveat ...

There is one thing in using high amounts of radiation for prolonged periods is the action of the light on some of the salts, like Boron, Manganese and Iron which might precipitate out of the solution, possibly leaving the plant deprived of these vital nutes . There is really much much less of this as a real threat though when all u do is not run it all of the time ...just periodically perhaps one 4-6hr period every week is all u need .

So to combat this possibility run the UV in the system just before adding fresh nutes & this will completely sterilize the entire system & then just add fresh nutes. But using only a 15watt UV bulb there's far les of the chance of this happening in any case but enough to kill down most of the bad guys .

so use judiciously as suggested above & your good to go ,
pretty much pythium/bacterium/algae free .

mrose

PS: but this way u'll get yrs & yrs of service out of one UV bulb unit , extremely cheapest peace of mind for a DWC system as you'll find .
 

ImaginaryFriend

Fuck Entropy.
Veteran
Grabbed this post from a different thread, but it is the conclusion from Krunch's threads/problems:

Use of Physan20 in Conjunction with Hydro-Fungicide:

Quote:
1 – Add Physan20 to your existing tank at a rate of one teaspoon per 15 gallons of reservoir. This comes out to 1ml of Physan20 for every THREE gallons in your tank. So divide your tank gallon capacity by 3, then add that many ml of Physan20. Run this tank for 3 days. Groovy set up a wholesale account with the manufacturer of Physan20 after we had a nice chat with the owner of that company. They are only 5 miles away from our office. We didn’t pull any punches, we asked what the application rate for MMJ Hydroponic reservoirs would be. The owner let us know that although Physan20 is a poison, in the dilution he recommended it would NOT be toxic to the plants.
Furthermore, he let us know that Physan20 biodegrades into NITROGEN in 3 to 7 days depending on the tank conditions. Therefore he stated that plants will not concentrate and store the toxic elements of Physan20 and will pose no threat upon consumption of the MMJ Crop. For this reason we recommend running the initial dose 3 days, then draining the reservoir to eliminate any traces of Physan to ease your mind, and also to clear out any dead organic matter such as dead algae, fungus, bacteria, and dead root matter.
2 – Mix up a fresh reservoir of your regular nutrient schedule. Lastly, add in 2ml of Hydro-Fungicide per Gallon of your new reservoir. Add the same ratio to any top-off water you add, and replenish the full amount once a week if you haven’t changed your reservoir out yet.

Physan20 as a solution comes from the Slime thread in the infirmary sticky. If you choose to run RDWC you should spend some time in that thread...

The big boys running RDWC are actively killing everything in their reservoirs.

If you don't have access to Physan20 and Hydro-Fungicide, you can run bleach, as described by the fatman on another site... which can be reduced to .2mL /gallon... so you'd need like 8mL in your system for the first day... then reduce that to a daily dose of .1mL/gallon.
 
just add a UV inline sterilizer & only need 15watt bulb
& probs with pythium , bacteria, algae etc
are things of the past .

their a little pricey but good to go for 3yrs ,
which is alot of peace of mind !

;)

Might go a little larger rez to...much less maintenance & alot more control.

So where do i position this filter on my 13mm supply line ?

Can i then ditch the H202 and Hygrozyme etc ??

Cheers
 
G

greenmatter

have had some of the same problems in the distant past and drove myself close to the f#%^&#g edge trying to figure it out. what worked for me in the end was adding more calcium and keeping the ph under 6. calcium nitrate works in veg. in flower i use a product from cutting edge solutions called plant amp. don't know if you can get it in europe. the stuff is made of calcium chloride (ice melt) which sure beats up my yard but it works great. mj and most other plants use as much calcium as they do n,p, or k but but the nute companies seem to run it as lean as possible. if this is your problem you should start seeing new white roots within 3 or 4 days. the old ones won't turn white again but the rot will stop. good luck easy. keep us posted
 

Madrus Rose

post 69
Veteran
So where do i position this filter on my 13mm supply line ?

Can i then ditch the H202 and Hygrozyme etc ??

Cheers


UV inline sterilizers can be run submersed ...but u can just incorporate inline if you're using a 3/4" tubing line , they wont impede flow at all. Or just drape over the rez & circulate once or twice a week .

Beauty is u can ditch the H202 (which i love for all kinds of uses ) and the problem of right doseages etc . Or the hope that other things like Hygrozme will have their magic effects . UV light just simply takes them all out , the baddies that is . No magic , just almost complete 100% kill rates ... and your left with pure clear rez time after time . Only run it once twice a week as i said for a few hrs & good to go .:wave:

And from then on , years of peace of mind , sound good ? This is what the big boys use in DWC lettuce grows or Japonese keep their valuable Koi fish healthy ...might as well emulate them ?

* But not a good thing if running organics which few DWC peeps do anyways ...UV not a good thing for the microherd , lol. This not a common thing many have done before just a very advanced neat trick am sharing for DWC peeps i know absolutely works . U heard it here first ! ;)
 
Well i have UV sterilizer on the way but after above it seems pointless if doing res changes as i should have...
What about having it on a timer on some sort ? Work out how many circulations an hour i have and setting it to that.

I can see it doing more harm than good if it is going to mess with the nute makeup ???

People must use them on here to good effect, or do i just do as Madrus mentioned ?
But i see the only benefit of this is that you sterilize the small amount of solution left in the system before replacing it...

More confused now...lol
 

jm420

Active member
Veteran
!!! likes running bleach check him out to,are you sure its root rot and not nute stains,Does the res smellbad
slime?
 

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