softyellowlight
Active member
Reading the book, the symptoms seem to coincide with those for:
Ca deficiency,
P deficiency and/or
Septoria fungal infectiion
Ca deficiency,
P deficiency and/or
Septoria fungal infectiion
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
2 weeks into flowering, spotting on cola fans
- Thread starter softyellowlight
- Start date
kstampy
Member
I highly doubt there is an infection. It looks like simple nute deficiency or lockout from pH, have seen the same thing in my garden before.
You could easily continue the rest of this grow with what you are doing and still get a nice harvest but I always suggest pHing and monitoring the ppm of your water if you still don't have a meter. There's no way of pinpointing any problems in your grow if you can't monitor pH/ppm. My 2 cents. 
softyellowlight
Active member
Quite relieved to hear it sounds like simple deficiency! I'm gonna give 'em a feeding with P now and a low amount of P with every watering for a bit and see if that might be it. The three-way meter testing my pH may not be very accurate, so I will definitely be investing in quality meters at the start of my next grow. If P doesn't perk things up at all I can still drop by the hydro store and get a Cal/Mag supplement but if things look like they will finish alright regardless I am happy =)
i agree with kstampy that it is MUCH more likely to be a deficiency rather than an infection, especially as Ca/Mg deficiency's are EXTREMELY common in our hobby.
keep in mind also that just adding P might not be enough if the problem is caused by a ph imbalance which may have created a nutrient lock-out situation that no amount of P will correct.
i'd actually try flushing with ph'd water before adding ANYTHING, then i'd add the Ca/Mg to the last of the solution you pour into the pots.
and if that's unclear let me know, lol, i just don't want to explain ad nauseum if you already know how to flush a plant.
peace, SOG
keep in mind also that just adding P might not be enough if the problem is caused by a ph imbalance which may have created a nutrient lock-out situation that no amount of P will correct.
i'd actually try flushing with ph'd water before adding ANYTHING, then i'd add the Ca/Mg to the last of the solution you pour into the pots.
and if that's unclear let me know, lol, i just don't want to explain ad nauseum if you already know how to flush a plant.
peace, SOG
Ph + Ca/mg = healthy
Seems like the general theme from the crowd. If you feed a lot, FFOF can be acidic blocking Ca/mg, also hard water can block P in my experience. Sometherguy is right about backing off the other additives until she recovers. They will pull it after a few days of rest. NS
( I dont mean to scare you but do you see any flyers? probably not root aphids but...FF)
Seems like the general theme from the crowd. If you feed a lot, FFOF can be acidic blocking Ca/mg, also hard water can block P in my experience. Sometherguy is right about backing off the other additives until she recovers. They will pull it after a few days of rest. NS
( I dont mean to scare you but do you see any flyers? probably not root aphids but...FF)
softyellowlight
Active member
You know, I was >this< close to picking up Cal-Mag at the hydro store last time, but then I thought, "May as well wait to see if I need it; don't need to make my water too hard, if it's already good." Now I'm thinking I was seeing a different form of this nutrient uptake problem earlier, but fortunately, growth is overall happy and healthy enough that I won't sweat it until I get to hit the hydro store! What are the best Calcium/Magnesium products for the home soil grower?
@northstate I'm being really neurotic checking for bugs after letting something that seemed like symphilids hurt my harvest last attempt. Luckily no pest signs on any of the plants!
BTW I have a big bag of crushed coral lying around -- maybe that should go into my next soil mix and make it less likely to need to supplement the Calcium?
@northstate I'm being really neurotic checking for bugs after letting something that seemed like symphilids hurt my harvest last attempt. Luckily no pest signs on any of the plants!
BTW I have a big bag of crushed coral lying around -- maybe that should go into my next soil mix and make it less likely to need to supplement the Calcium?
VIKINGtrich
Member
Looks like a PH issue or possible salt build-up....Could be from a number of different things that you are doing....
"""I used the GH nutrient feeding schedule without diluting it and split a gallon of it evenly between those two plants."""
Not good, mix well, But i don't think that is your problem...Certainly did not help though..
Your tap water may be high in salts, or high in calcium, or anything....That could hurt you as well..
Your feeding them FULL STRENGHTH, EVERY DAY, is not good at all... Go with half of what the GH schedule says, and feed at most every other watering, that's my opinion of course....
Lemon juice works, But, Im not sure how stable it is, I would invest in a 10 dollar bottle of PH up....The down you probably wont use much, But I would buy that too, just to have in your arsenal....The PH down may be needed on the days you feed with water only...
Continue to work and figure out what it is you are doing wrong, and make adjustments, and most important, LEARN from your experiences, so one day you will be able to grow an entire crop without having any issues arise.... You will get there, just keep at it...
...And once you can figure out these small details, get some good genetics to work with... Get the Knowledge, then the genetics, then good soil, then good water, and you will be well on your way to top shelf shit.
Good luck.
...And If I have one plant that is finicky, I absolutely DO, mix up a seperate bucket of water/feed for her.... I take take care of my girls, ALWAYS, Do whatever it takes to get the most out of your girls. When you find some time, check out some genetics from Nirvana Seeds, or MAndala, or Seedsman Seeds.... All 3 have nice genetics, at very cheap prices.... I would start with Seedsman, then Mandala, then Nirvana, from experience.
For right now, Im saying a salt build-up causing a lock-out... GH is a great brand, but does have alot of salts in it... You just need to use ALOT less, and less frequently..
"""I used the GH nutrient feeding schedule without diluting it and split a gallon of it evenly between those two plants."""
Not good, mix well, But i don't think that is your problem...Certainly did not help though..
Your tap water may be high in salts, or high in calcium, or anything....That could hurt you as well..
Your feeding them FULL STRENGHTH, EVERY DAY, is not good at all... Go with half of what the GH schedule says, and feed at most every other watering, that's my opinion of course....
Lemon juice works, But, Im not sure how stable it is, I would invest in a 10 dollar bottle of PH up....The down you probably wont use much, But I would buy that too, just to have in your arsenal....The PH down may be needed on the days you feed with water only...
Continue to work and figure out what it is you are doing wrong, and make adjustments, and most important, LEARN from your experiences, so one day you will be able to grow an entire crop without having any issues arise.... You will get there, just keep at it...
...And once you can figure out these small details, get some good genetics to work with... Get the Knowledge, then the genetics, then good soil, then good water, and you will be well on your way to top shelf shit.
Good luck.
...And If I have one plant that is finicky, I absolutely DO, mix up a seperate bucket of water/feed for her.... I take take care of my girls, ALWAYS, Do whatever it takes to get the most out of your girls. When you find some time, check out some genetics from Nirvana Seeds, or MAndala, or Seedsman Seeds.... All 3 have nice genetics, at very cheap prices.... I would start with Seedsman, then Mandala, then Nirvana, from experience.
For right now, Im saying a salt build-up causing a lock-out... GH is a great brand, but does have alot of salts in it... You just need to use ALOT less, and less frequently..
softyellowlight
Active member
Let me amend what I said about the feeding schedule, because now that I remember -- I used only half strength before and scaled up when I went to bloom. These guys were cloned from flower so my expectation was the start of bloom would be fast and need a lot of nutrients. The vegetation time was pretty short so the one with salt build-up would really be the old, harder-soil mother in the center... anyone's guess what that one can produce.
I still have a bit more equipment to invest in to get it all right, and lots of experience to work on, but this is a very fun hobby to learn from! I appreciate all of the insight from this forum's populace.
I still have a bit more equipment to invest in to get it all right, and lots of experience to work on, but this is a very fun hobby to learn from! I appreciate all of the insight from this forum's populace.
VIKINGtrich
Member
And an FYI, for the first 2-3 weeks in 12/12, they don't just immediately start flowering, It;s more of a transition, You still want to give them plenty of Nitrogen for the first couple weeks in 12/12, then drop it down a little for the next couple of weeks, then around 4-5 week, drop the Micro or Grow, and use just the Bloom.... that will save you the trouble of dealing with a nitrogen deprived plant in mid flower...Once it starts turning yellow to early, it's hard to get her back on tract, perfectly.
just keep asking questions, and continue to study, You will get there soon.
just keep asking questions, and continue to study, You will get there soon.
hey dude, cannabis strains use more calmag then phosphorus. epsecially in veg. i have the charts if you need to see them, d
softyellowlight
Active member
The flowering of these plants is pretty non-standard: I took the clones at three weeks into flowering and they took about a month to fully begin growing vegetatively again. As soon as they got planted into the soil and under the high-powered light they shot out a number of branches in a sort of starburst pattern, similar to the ones pictured in the article on these forums on Topping, Training and Pruning for revegetated flowering clones.
Anyway, consequently, going into flowering at about one and a half feet, pistils started exploding out as soon as the light schedule changed. The total stretch so far is only about half a foot, with lights switched to 12/12 on 12/23/2010. The flowers on it now look similar to the flowers on its mother when it had been under 12/12 for over a month, so I think the total flowering time dropped due to having already been part of a flowering plant previously. We shall see for sure!
Anyway, consequently, going into flowering at about one and a half feet, pistils started exploding out as soon as the light schedule changed. The total stretch so far is only about half a foot, with lights switched to 12/12 on 12/23/2010. The flowers on it now look similar to the flowers on its mother when it had been under 12/12 for over a month, so I think the total flowering time dropped due to having already been part of a flowering plant previously. We shall see for sure!
softyellowlight
Active member
since you guys sound confident it's more likely that than P I've got a trip planned Monday to get something for it (likely CaMg+ so I can say, "I've tried GH/GO's line")
BUT I would love to see nutrition-related charts nonetheless! there's only so much info in each book or guide you read so teach away; peace
kstampy
Member
This doesn't look like a N deficiency IMO and I have never specifically fed N in the first few weeks with either pure blend pro, lucas (GH) or Canna so be careful if you try this because I do believe they have N already in them. My logic states that more N will mean more stretch and later bud production but hey I'm prolly wrong
. Strain could make a big difference but I don't grow much that runs past 9 weeks. I do 700 or 1400ppm from day 1 they both work if balanced out right with fresh water feedings and never see N def. If you want to be careful Cal/Mag has N in it and you can do like 1-2ml/gal on your plain waterings instead of putting Cal/Mag in your feed waterings. It helps pH adjust as well if you use RO. Strains like DGS SC99 and C99 would eat up massive amounts of cal/mag, I was adding 8ml/gal for a while there. Also I have hard water 350ppm and moved to RO and it has just made things easier. Don't worry too much I bet your plants will come out fine if you keep on doing what you're doing and soak up the knowledge. Keeping notes of what you do helps in the long run too. Clone runs generally flower faster than seed if ya didn't know
i'd just like to say that you might want to take a more natural approach considering that you're new to this anyway.
with chem nutes you WILL get results, and it's relatively easy because you basically just follow a formula, ...so many ml's of this and so many ml's of that mixed with so many gallons of water in this stage of life and a different formula for that stage of life, ...after a while it can become like a treadmill and you become dependent on all the additives and formulas and shit.
and forgetting that so many say that organically grown bud is the best tasting bud you can get, once you learn how to do things organically, you become much more connected to your plants and their needs.
the difference is in the approach really in that with organics you feed the soil everything the plant needs to complete it's life cycle, then, during the life of the plant, you feed it microbial teas, compost teas, which don't feed your plants directly but indirectly, by feeding the eco-system in your alive and healthy soil, kind of like God set it up, before we had chemical nutes.
also, doing it that way puts your plants in charge in the sense that the roots produce exudates that attract and feed microbial life that in turn feed and protect the plants, and the plants exude whatever is needed to attract whatever kind of bacteria that will feed them what they need.
...it's much harder to explain this shit than it is to know it and i'm still learning it so my understanding is rudimentary at best. ...so my explanations are probably off the mark but close enough so you should be able to get the idea and the attraction.
anyway, lol, below are a couple of threads you may find interesting if you don't want to stay on that nutrient regimen treadmill.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=53792Organics for Beginners
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=110620Tea Article
btw, both of these threads are a little long but read them anyway and you will be won over, lol.
peace, SOG
oh yeah, ...if you do things organically you don't need PPM meters and EC meters and even a PH meter is more a convenience than a need.
with chem nutes you WILL get results, and it's relatively easy because you basically just follow a formula, ...so many ml's of this and so many ml's of that mixed with so many gallons of water in this stage of life and a different formula for that stage of life, ...after a while it can become like a treadmill and you become dependent on all the additives and formulas and shit.
and forgetting that so many say that organically grown bud is the best tasting bud you can get, once you learn how to do things organically, you become much more connected to your plants and their needs.
the difference is in the approach really in that with organics you feed the soil everything the plant needs to complete it's life cycle, then, during the life of the plant, you feed it microbial teas, compost teas, which don't feed your plants directly but indirectly, by feeding the eco-system in your alive and healthy soil, kind of like God set it up, before we had chemical nutes.
also, doing it that way puts your plants in charge in the sense that the roots produce exudates that attract and feed microbial life that in turn feed and protect the plants, and the plants exude whatever is needed to attract whatever kind of bacteria that will feed them what they need.
...it's much harder to explain this shit than it is to know it and i'm still learning it so my understanding is rudimentary at best. ...so my explanations are probably off the mark but close enough so you should be able to get the idea and the attraction.
anyway, lol, below are a couple of threads you may find interesting if you don't want to stay on that nutrient regimen treadmill.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=53792Organics for Beginners
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=110620Tea Article
btw, both of these threads are a little long but read them anyway and you will be won over, lol.
peace, SOG
oh yeah, ...if you do things organically you don't need PPM meters and EC meters and even a PH meter is more a convenience than a need.
softyellowlight
Active member
after taking a look at that report on elementary breakdown of cannabis I am going to completely disregard GH's suggestions for ratio and use something like 1 FloraMicro-3 FloraGro-.5 FloraBloom (i.e. 1(5 0 1) + 3(2 1 6) + .5(0 5 4) = 11 5.5 20)
also... three part again never
also... three part again never
softyellowlight
Active member
1:1:1 GH meaning N=7 P=6 K=11 for flowering? I'm gonna feed with an additional Ca/Mg supplement tomorrow but now I'm totally unsure what NPK ratio I should be going for, if as you said I should be minimizing P is 7-6-11 not too much P?
I'm gonna hit up the local hydro store for some kind of Ca/Mg and pH Down to round out my supplies for this grow. I've got NPK, kelp extract, Humic acid, molasses.... anything else I'm shooting myself in the foot for not having at the ready? I can invest a little bit more if it will make a big difference. Thanks a bunch brother
I'm gonna hit up the local hydro store for some kind of Ca/Mg and pH Down to round out my supplies for this grow. I've got NPK, kelp extract, Humic acid, molasses.... anything else I'm shooting myself in the foot for not having at the ready? I can invest a little bit more if it will make a big difference. Thanks a bunch brother
softyellowlight
Active member
fed em tonight with full nutes, kelp, humic and the "big" serving of GO CaMg+, and gonna continue feeding the "small" amount with every feeding and watering for a while. hopefully this stops the leaf death right in its tracks. everything that is not fan leaves looks totally good.
