NAjboljsi Mix Zemlje !
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lasko
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No potem gas 
To pa edi rosenhalov pravi
Chapter Seven - Planting Mixes
One of the first books written on indoor growing suggested that the entire floor of a grow room be filled with soil. This method is effective but unfeasible for most cultivators. Still, the growers have a wide choice of growing mediums and techniques; they may choose between growing in soil or using a hydroponic method. Most growers prefer to cultivate their plants in containers filled with soil, commercial mixes, or their own recipe of soil, fertilizers, and soil conditioners. These mixes vary quite a bit in their content, nutrient values, texture, pH, and water-holding capacity. Potting soil is composed of topsoil, which is a natural outdoor composite high in nutrients. It is the top layer of soil, containing large amounts of organic material such as humus and compost as well as minerals and clays. Topsoil is usually lightened up so that it does not pack. This is done using sand, vermiculite, perlite, peat moss and/or gravel. Potting soil tends to be heavy, smell earthy and have a rich dark color. It can supply most of the nutrients that a plant needs for the first couple of months. Commercial potting mixes are composites manufactured from ingredients such as bark or wood fiber, composts, or soil condi- tioners such as vermiculite, perlite and peat moss. They are design- ed to support growth of houseplants by holding adequate amounts of water and nutrients and releasing them slowly. Potting mixes tend to be low in nutrients and often require fertilization from the outset. Many of them may be considered hydroponic mixes because the nutrients are supplied by the gardener in a water solution on a regular basis.Texture of the potting mix is the most important consideration for containerized plants. The mixture should drain well and allow air to enter empty spaces so that the roots can breathe oxygen. Mixes which are too fine may become soggy or stick together, Preventing the roots from obtaining the required oxygen. A soggy Condition also promotes the growth of anaerobic bacteria which release acids that eventually harm the roots. A moist potting mix with good texture should form a clump if it is squeezed in a fist; then with a slight poke the clod should break up. If the clod stays together, soil conditioners are required to loosen it up. Vermiculite, perlite or pea-sized styrofoam chips will serve the purpose. Some growers prefer to make their own mixes. These can be made from soil, soil conditioners and fertilizers. Plants grown in soil do not grow as quickly as those in hydroponic mixes. However many growers prefer soil for aesthetic reasons. Good potting mixes can be made from topsoil fairly easily. Usually it is easier to buy topsoil than to use unpasteurized top- soil which contains weed seeds, insects and disease organisms. Out- doors, these organisms are kept in check, for the most part, by the forces of nature. Bringing them indoors, however, is like bringing them into an incubator, where many of their natural enemies are not around to take care of them. Soil can be sterilized using a 5% bleach solution poured through the medium or by being steamed for 20 minutes. Probably the easiest way to sterilize soil is to use a microwave. It is heated until it is steaming - about 5 minutes for a gallon or more. Potting soils and potting mixes vary tremendously in composi- tion, pH and fertility. Most mixes contain only small amounts of soil. If a package is marked "potting soil", it is usually made most- ly from topsoil. If the soil clumps up it should be loosened using sand, perlite or styrofoam. One part amendment is used to 2-3 parts soil. Ad- ditives listed in Chart 7-2 may also be added. Here is a partial list of soil conditioners:
Foam
Foam rubber can be used in place of styrofoam. Although it holds water trapped between its open cells it also holds air. About 1. 5 parts of foam rubber for every part of styrofoam is used. Pea- size pieces or smaller should be used.
Gravel
Gravel is often used as a sole medium in hydroponic systems because it is easy to clean, never wears out, does not "lock up" nutrients, and is inexpensive. It is also a good mix ingredient because it creates large spaces for airpockets and gives the mix weight. Some gravel contains limestone (see "Sand"). This material should not be used.
Lava
Lava is a preferred medium on its own or as a part of a mix. It is porous and holds water both on its surface and in the irregular spaces along its irregular shape. Lava is an ideal medium by itself but is sometimes considered a little too dry. To give it more moisture-holding ability, about one part of wet vermiculite is mixed with 3 to 6 parts lava. The vermiculite will break up and coat the lava, creating a medium with excellent water-holding abilities and plenty of air spaces. If the mix is watered from the top, the ver- miculite will wash down eventually, but if it is watered from the bottom it will remain.
Perlite
Perlite is an expanded (puffed) volcanic glass. It is lightweight with many peaks and valleys on its surface, where it traps particles of water. However, it dQes not absorb water into its structure. It does not break down easily and is hard to the touch. Perlite comes in several grades with the coarser grade being better for larger con- tainers. Perlite is very dusty when dry. To eliminate dust, the material is watered to saturation with a watering can or hose before it is removed from the bag. Use of masks and respirators is impor- tant.
Rockwool
Rockwool is made from stone which has been heated then ex- truded into thin strands which are something like glass wool. It ab- sorbs water like a wick. It usually comes in blocks or rolls. It can be used in all systems but is usually used in conjunction with drip emit- ters. Growers report phenomenal growth rates using rockwool. It is also very convenient to use. The blocks are placed in position or it is rolled out. Then seeds or transplants are placed on the material.
Sand
Sand is a heavy material which is often added to a mixture to increase its weight so that the plant is held more firmly. It promotes drainage and keeps the mix from caking. Sand comes in several grades too, but all of them seem to work well. The best sand to use is composed of quartz. Sand is often composed of limestone; the limestone/sand raises pH, causing micronutrients to precipitate, making them unavailable to the plants. It is best not to use it. Limestone-containing sand can be "cured" by soaking in a solution of water and superphosphate fertilizer which binds with the surface of the lime molecule in the sand, making the molecule temporarily inert. One pound of superphosphate is used to S gallons of water. It dissolves best in hot water. The sand should sit in this for 6-12 hours and then be rinsed. Superphosphate can be purchased at most nurseries. Horticultural sand is composed of inert materials and needs no curing. Sand must be made free of salt if it came from a salt-water area. Spbagnum Moss Sphagnum or peat moss is gathered from bogs in the midwest. It absorbs many times its own weight in water and acts as a buffer for nutrients. Buffers absorb the nutrients and hold large amounts in their chemical structure. The moss releases them gradually as they are used by the plant. If too much nutrient is supplied, the moss will act on it and hold it, preventing toxic buildups in the water solution. Moss tends to be acidic so no more than 20% of the planting mix should be composed of it.
Styrofoam Pellets
Styrofoam is a hydrophobic material (it repels water) and is an excellent soil mix ingredient. It allows air spaces to form in the mix and keeps the materials from clumping, since it does not bond with other materials or with itself. One problem is that it is lighter than water and tends to migrate to the top of the mix. Styrofoam is easily used to adjust the water-holding capacity of a mix. Mixes which are soggy or which hold too much water can be "dried" with the addi- tion of styrofoam. Styrofoam balls or chips no larger than a pea should be used in fine4extured mixtures. Larger styrofoam pieces can be used in coarse mixes.
Vermiculite
Vermiculite is processed puffed mica. It is very lightweight but holds large quantities of water in its structure. Vermiculite is available in several size pieces. The large size seems to permit more aeration. Vermiculite breaks down into smaller particles over a period of time. Vermiculite is sold in several grades based on the size of the particles. The fine grades are best suited to small con- tainers. In large containers, fine particles tend to pack too tightly, not leaving enough space for air. Coarser grades should be used in larger containers. Vermiculite is dusty when dry, so it should be wet down before it is used. Mediums used in smaller containers should be able to absorb more water than mediums in larger containers. For instance, seed- lings started in 1 to 2 inch containers can be planted in plain ver- miculite or soil. Containers up to about one gallon can be filled with a vermiculite-perlite or soil-perlite mix. Containers larger than that need a mix modified so that it does not hold as much water and does not become soggy. The addition of sand, gravel, or styrofoam accomplishes this very easily. Here are lists of different mediums suitable for planting: Below is a list of the moist mixtures, suitable for the wick system, the reservoir system and drip emitters which are covered in Chapter 9.
CHART 7-1-A: MOIST PLANTING MIXES
1) 4 parts topsoil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite. Moist, con- tains medium-high amounts of nutrients. Best for wick and hand- watering.
2) 3 parts topsoil, 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam. Moist but airy. Medium nutrients. Best for wick and hand-watering.
3) 3 parts vermiculite, 3 parts perlite, 1 part sand, 2 parts pea- sized gravel. Moist and airy but has some weight. Good for all systems, drains well.
4) 5 parts vermiculite, S parts perlite. Standard mix, moist. Ex- cellent for wick and drip emitter systems though it works well for all systems.
5) 3 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam. Medium dry mix, excellent for all systems.
6) 2 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam, 1 part peat moss. Moist mix.
7) 2 parts vermiculite, 2 parts perlite, 3 parts styrofoam, 1 part sphagnum moss, 1 part compost. Medium moisture, small amounts of slow-releasing nutrients, good for all Systems.
8) 2 parts topsoil, 2 parts compost, 1 part sand, 1 part perlite. Medium-moist, high in slow-release of organic nutrients, good for wick and drip systems, as well as hand watering.
9) 2 parts compost, 1 part perlite, 1 part sand, 1 part lava. Drier mix, high in slow-release of nutrients, drains well, good for all systems.
10) 1 part topsoil, 1 part compost, 2 parts sand, 1 part lava. Dry mix, high in nutrients, good for all systems.
11) 3 parts compost, 3 parts sand, 2 parts perlite, 1 part peat moss, 2 parts vermiculite. Moist, mid-range nutrients, good for wick systems.
12) 2 parts compost, 2 parts sand, 1 part styrofoam. Drier, high nutrients, good for all systems.
13) 5 parts lava, 1 part vermiculite. Drier, airy, good for all systems. Here are some drier mediums suitable for flood systems as well as drip emitters hydroponic systems (covered in Chapter 9).
CHART 7-1-B: FLOOD SYSTEM/DRIP EMITTER MIXES
l) Lava
2) Pea size gravel
3) Sand
4) Mixes of any or all of the above
Manure and other slow-releasing natural fertilizers are often added to the planting mix. With these additives, the grower needs to use fertilizers only supplementally. Some of the organic amend- ments are listed in the following chart. Organic amendments can be mixed but should not be used in amounts larger than those recom- mended because too much nutrient can cause toxicity. Some growers add time-release fertilizers to the mix. These are formulated to release nutrients over a specified period of time, usually 3, 4, 6 or 8 months. The actual rate of release is regulated in part by temperature, and since house temperatures are usually higher than outdoor soil temperatures, the fertilizers used indoors release over a shorter period of time than is noted on the label. Gardeners find that they must supplement the time-release fer- tilizer formulas with soluble fertilizers during the growing season. Growers can circumvent this problem by using a time-release fer- tilizer suggested for a longer period of time than the plant cycle. For instance, a 9 month time-release fertilizer can be used in a 6 month garden. Remember that more fertilizer is releasing faster, so that a larger amount of nutrients will be available than was intended. These mixes are used sparingly. About one tablespoon of dolomite limestone should be added for each gallon of planting mix, or a half cup per cubic foot of mix. This supplies the calcium along with magnesium, both of which the plants require. If dolomite is unavailable, then hydrated lime or any agricultural lime can be used.
To pa edi rosenhalov pravi
Chapter Seven - Planting Mixes
One of the first books written on indoor growing suggested that the entire floor of a grow room be filled with soil. This method is effective but unfeasible for most cultivators. Still, the growers have a wide choice of growing mediums and techniques; they may choose between growing in soil or using a hydroponic method. Most growers prefer to cultivate their plants in containers filled with soil, commercial mixes, or their own recipe of soil, fertilizers, and soil conditioners. These mixes vary quite a bit in their content, nutrient values, texture, pH, and water-holding capacity. Potting soil is composed of topsoil, which is a natural outdoor composite high in nutrients. It is the top layer of soil, containing large amounts of organic material such as humus and compost as well as minerals and clays. Topsoil is usually lightened up so that it does not pack. This is done using sand, vermiculite, perlite, peat moss and/or gravel. Potting soil tends to be heavy, smell earthy and have a rich dark color. It can supply most of the nutrients that a plant needs for the first couple of months. Commercial potting mixes are composites manufactured from ingredients such as bark or wood fiber, composts, or soil condi- tioners such as vermiculite, perlite and peat moss. They are design- ed to support growth of houseplants by holding adequate amounts of water and nutrients and releasing them slowly. Potting mixes tend to be low in nutrients and often require fertilization from the outset. Many of them may be considered hydroponic mixes because the nutrients are supplied by the gardener in a water solution on a regular basis.Texture of the potting mix is the most important consideration for containerized plants. The mixture should drain well and allow air to enter empty spaces so that the roots can breathe oxygen. Mixes which are too fine may become soggy or stick together, Preventing the roots from obtaining the required oxygen. A soggy Condition also promotes the growth of anaerobic bacteria which release acids that eventually harm the roots. A moist potting mix with good texture should form a clump if it is squeezed in a fist; then with a slight poke the clod should break up. If the clod stays together, soil conditioners are required to loosen it up. Vermiculite, perlite or pea-sized styrofoam chips will serve the purpose. Some growers prefer to make their own mixes. These can be made from soil, soil conditioners and fertilizers. Plants grown in soil do not grow as quickly as those in hydroponic mixes. However many growers prefer soil for aesthetic reasons. Good potting mixes can be made from topsoil fairly easily. Usually it is easier to buy topsoil than to use unpasteurized top- soil which contains weed seeds, insects and disease organisms. Out- doors, these organisms are kept in check, for the most part, by the forces of nature. Bringing them indoors, however, is like bringing them into an incubator, where many of their natural enemies are not around to take care of them. Soil can be sterilized using a 5% bleach solution poured through the medium or by being steamed for 20 minutes. Probably the easiest way to sterilize soil is to use a microwave. It is heated until it is steaming - about 5 minutes for a gallon or more. Potting soils and potting mixes vary tremendously in composi- tion, pH and fertility. Most mixes contain only small amounts of soil. If a package is marked "potting soil", it is usually made most- ly from topsoil. If the soil clumps up it should be loosened using sand, perlite or styrofoam. One part amendment is used to 2-3 parts soil. Ad- ditives listed in Chart 7-2 may also be added. Here is a partial list of soil conditioners:
Foam
Foam rubber can be used in place of styrofoam. Although it holds water trapped between its open cells it also holds air. About 1. 5 parts of foam rubber for every part of styrofoam is used. Pea- size pieces or smaller should be used.
Gravel
Gravel is often used as a sole medium in hydroponic systems because it is easy to clean, never wears out, does not "lock up" nutrients, and is inexpensive. It is also a good mix ingredient because it creates large spaces for airpockets and gives the mix weight. Some gravel contains limestone (see "Sand"). This material should not be used.
Lava
Lava is a preferred medium on its own or as a part of a mix. It is porous and holds water both on its surface and in the irregular spaces along its irregular shape. Lava is an ideal medium by itself but is sometimes considered a little too dry. To give it more moisture-holding ability, about one part of wet vermiculite is mixed with 3 to 6 parts lava. The vermiculite will break up and coat the lava, creating a medium with excellent water-holding abilities and plenty of air spaces. If the mix is watered from the top, the ver- miculite will wash down eventually, but if it is watered from the bottom it will remain.
Perlite
Perlite is an expanded (puffed) volcanic glass. It is lightweight with many peaks and valleys on its surface, where it traps particles of water. However, it dQes not absorb water into its structure. It does not break down easily and is hard to the touch. Perlite comes in several grades with the coarser grade being better for larger con- tainers. Perlite is very dusty when dry. To eliminate dust, the material is watered to saturation with a watering can or hose before it is removed from the bag. Use of masks and respirators is impor- tant.
Rockwool
Rockwool is made from stone which has been heated then ex- truded into thin strands which are something like glass wool. It ab- sorbs water like a wick. It usually comes in blocks or rolls. It can be used in all systems but is usually used in conjunction with drip emit- ters. Growers report phenomenal growth rates using rockwool. It is also very convenient to use. The blocks are placed in position or it is rolled out. Then seeds or transplants are placed on the material.
Sand
Sand is a heavy material which is often added to a mixture to increase its weight so that the plant is held more firmly. It promotes drainage and keeps the mix from caking. Sand comes in several grades too, but all of them seem to work well. The best sand to use is composed of quartz. Sand is often composed of limestone; the limestone/sand raises pH, causing micronutrients to precipitate, making them unavailable to the plants. It is best not to use it. Limestone-containing sand can be "cured" by soaking in a solution of water and superphosphate fertilizer which binds with the surface of the lime molecule in the sand, making the molecule temporarily inert. One pound of superphosphate is used to S gallons of water. It dissolves best in hot water. The sand should sit in this for 6-12 hours and then be rinsed. Superphosphate can be purchased at most nurseries. Horticultural sand is composed of inert materials and needs no curing. Sand must be made free of salt if it came from a salt-water area. Spbagnum Moss Sphagnum or peat moss is gathered from bogs in the midwest. It absorbs many times its own weight in water and acts as a buffer for nutrients. Buffers absorb the nutrients and hold large amounts in their chemical structure. The moss releases them gradually as they are used by the plant. If too much nutrient is supplied, the moss will act on it and hold it, preventing toxic buildups in the water solution. Moss tends to be acidic so no more than 20% of the planting mix should be composed of it.
Styrofoam Pellets
Styrofoam is a hydrophobic material (it repels water) and is an excellent soil mix ingredient. It allows air spaces to form in the mix and keeps the materials from clumping, since it does not bond with other materials or with itself. One problem is that it is lighter than water and tends to migrate to the top of the mix. Styrofoam is easily used to adjust the water-holding capacity of a mix. Mixes which are soggy or which hold too much water can be "dried" with the addi- tion of styrofoam. Styrofoam balls or chips no larger than a pea should be used in fine4extured mixtures. Larger styrofoam pieces can be used in coarse mixes.
Vermiculite
Vermiculite is processed puffed mica. It is very lightweight but holds large quantities of water in its structure. Vermiculite is available in several size pieces. The large size seems to permit more aeration. Vermiculite breaks down into smaller particles over a period of time. Vermiculite is sold in several grades based on the size of the particles. The fine grades are best suited to small con- tainers. In large containers, fine particles tend to pack too tightly, not leaving enough space for air. Coarser grades should be used in larger containers. Vermiculite is dusty when dry, so it should be wet down before it is used. Mediums used in smaller containers should be able to absorb more water than mediums in larger containers. For instance, seed- lings started in 1 to 2 inch containers can be planted in plain ver- miculite or soil. Containers up to about one gallon can be filled with a vermiculite-perlite or soil-perlite mix. Containers larger than that need a mix modified so that it does not hold as much water and does not become soggy. The addition of sand, gravel, or styrofoam accomplishes this very easily. Here are lists of different mediums suitable for planting: Below is a list of the moist mixtures, suitable for the wick system, the reservoir system and drip emitters which are covered in Chapter 9.
CHART 7-1-A: MOIST PLANTING MIXES
1) 4 parts topsoil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite. Moist, con- tains medium-high amounts of nutrients. Best for wick and hand- watering.
2) 3 parts topsoil, 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam. Moist but airy. Medium nutrients. Best for wick and hand-watering.
3) 3 parts vermiculite, 3 parts perlite, 1 part sand, 2 parts pea- sized gravel. Moist and airy but has some weight. Good for all systems, drains well.
4) 5 parts vermiculite, S parts perlite. Standard mix, moist. Ex- cellent for wick and drip emitter systems though it works well for all systems.
5) 3 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam. Medium dry mix, excellent for all systems.
6) 2 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam, 1 part peat moss. Moist mix.
7) 2 parts vermiculite, 2 parts perlite, 3 parts styrofoam, 1 part sphagnum moss, 1 part compost. Medium moisture, small amounts of slow-releasing nutrients, good for all Systems.
8) 2 parts topsoil, 2 parts compost, 1 part sand, 1 part perlite. Medium-moist, high in slow-release of organic nutrients, good for wick and drip systems, as well as hand watering.
9) 2 parts compost, 1 part perlite, 1 part sand, 1 part lava. Drier mix, high in slow-release of nutrients, drains well, good for all systems.
10) 1 part topsoil, 1 part compost, 2 parts sand, 1 part lava. Dry mix, high in nutrients, good for all systems.
11) 3 parts compost, 3 parts sand, 2 parts perlite, 1 part peat moss, 2 parts vermiculite. Moist, mid-range nutrients, good for wick systems.
12) 2 parts compost, 2 parts sand, 1 part styrofoam. Drier, high nutrients, good for all systems.
13) 5 parts lava, 1 part vermiculite. Drier, airy, good for all systems. Here are some drier mediums suitable for flood systems as well as drip emitters hydroponic systems (covered in Chapter 9).
CHART 7-1-B: FLOOD SYSTEM/DRIP EMITTER MIXES
l) Lava
2) Pea size gravel
3) Sand
4) Mixes of any or all of the above
Manure and other slow-releasing natural fertilizers are often added to the planting mix. With these additives, the grower needs to use fertilizers only supplementally. Some of the organic amend- ments are listed in the following chart. Organic amendments can be mixed but should not be used in amounts larger than those recom- mended because too much nutrient can cause toxicity. Some growers add time-release fertilizers to the mix. These are formulated to release nutrients over a specified period of time, usually 3, 4, 6 or 8 months. The actual rate of release is regulated in part by temperature, and since house temperatures are usually higher than outdoor soil temperatures, the fertilizers used indoors release over a shorter period of time than is noted on the label. Gardeners find that they must supplement the time-release fer- tilizer formulas with soluble fertilizers during the growing season. Growers can circumvent this problem by using a time-release fer- tilizer suggested for a longer period of time than the plant cycle. For instance, a 9 month time-release fertilizer can be used in a 6 month garden. Remember that more fertilizer is releasing faster, so that a larger amount of nutrients will be available than was intended. These mixes are used sparingly. About one tablespoon of dolomite limestone should be added for each gallon of planting mix, or a half cup per cubic foot of mix. This supplies the calcium along with magnesium, both of which the plants require. If dolomite is unavailable, then hydrated lime or any agricultural lime can be used.
smoothcough
New member
Greenish glede stiropora sem ga uporabljal 2 rundi, ker mi ga je priporočil en star grower, potem pa sem slišal razne pripombe da stiropor ni dober pa sem ga opustil čeprav nisem opazil nobene pomankljivosti. Mislite da bi ga moral zopet uporabit ? Da ne škoduje ?
Je ze probal kdo recept od tom hilla ? Sem se odločil da za outdoor 2011 poiskusim po receptu:
25 vreč zemlje za rože (42 l) =total cca. 1050 kg
4 vreče piščančjega dreka ( 28 l)= total cca. 100 kg
1 vreča perlita ( 113 l) =total cca. 100 kg
1 vreča kosne moke (oparjena, ne obarjena) (22kg)
5 kg mavca / 5 kg apna =total 10 kg
Upam da sem prav prevedel edino ta mavec nisem siguren. Drugače pa sem se odločil za manjšo količino zato sem si preračunal da bi za dobro zeljo moralo biti:
210 l zemlje
20 l piščančjega dreka
20 l perlita
4 kg kostne moke
1 kg mavca, 1 kg apna
Kaj pravite bi bil to dober mix za zemljo ? Za posladek posredujem sliko bilk ki so nastala iz tega mixa.
prevod iz orginala :
25 bags black gold potting soil (1.5cf ea)
4 bags stutzman farms chicken manure (1 cf ea)
1 bag perlite (4 cf ea)
1 bag (50 lbs) bonemeal (steamed, not precipitated)
1/2 bag gypsum (aprox 1/2 cf) - Edit -> 1/2 of a 40 lb bag (20lbs).
Mix well, water thoroughly, let rest for 2-3 weeks minimum, transplant, and stand back
Je ze probal kdo recept od tom hilla ? Sem se odločil da za outdoor 2011 poiskusim po receptu:
25 vreč zemlje za rože (42 l) =total cca. 1050 kg
4 vreče piščančjega dreka ( 28 l)= total cca. 100 kg
1 vreča perlita ( 113 l) =total cca. 100 kg
1 vreča kosne moke (oparjena, ne obarjena) (22kg)
5 kg mavca / 5 kg apna =total 10 kg
Upam da sem prav prevedel edino ta mavec nisem siguren. Drugače pa sem se odločil za manjšo količino zato sem si preračunal da bi za dobro zeljo moralo biti:
210 l zemlje
20 l piščančjega dreka
20 l perlita
4 kg kostne moke
1 kg mavca, 1 kg apna
Kaj pravite bi bil to dober mix za zemljo ? Za posladek posredujem sliko bilk ki so nastala iz tega mixa.
prevod iz orginala :
25 bags black gold potting soil (1.5cf ea)
4 bags stutzman farms chicken manure (1 cf ea)
1 bag perlite (4 cf ea)
1 bag (50 lbs) bonemeal (steamed, not precipitated)
1/2 bag gypsum (aprox 1/2 cf) - Edit -> 1/2 of a 40 lb bag (20lbs).
Mix well, water thoroughly, let rest for 2-3 weeks minimum, transplant, and stand back
I
I-Shence
če lahko dobiš kje kostno moko,mi jo prosim zrihtaj!plačam dobro
good luck!
good luck!
smoothcough
New member
Nisem vedel da je prav kostna moka kriva za nore krave ups
Bi lahko bilo to za nadomestilo ?
http://www.kalia.si/index.php?page=...378&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=223
http://www.kalia.si/index.php?page=...378&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=223
upsBi lahko bilo to za nadomestilo ?
http://www.kalia.si/index.php?page=...378&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=223
http://www.kalia.si/index.php?page=...378&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=223
I
I-Shence
hm..nisem čist prepričan,ker ne vem kaj vse naj bi vsebovala kostna moka.sem pa našel kaj je v kostominu:
VSEBNOST ANALITSKIH SESTAVIN: kalcij 12 %, fosfor 8 %, natrij 5 %, magnezij 2 %,
500.000 I.E. vitamina A/kg, 50.000 I.E. vitamina D3/kg, 500 mg vitamina E/kg.
pomoje je za probat.
VSEBNOST ANALITSKIH SESTAVIN: kalcij 12 %, fosfor 8 %, natrij 5 %, magnezij 2 %,
500.000 I.E. vitamina A/kg, 50.000 I.E. vitamina D3/kg, 500 mg vitamina E/kg.
pomoje je za probat.
smoothcough
New member
Mislite da je ta kostomin nadomestek za kostno moko ? Kostno moko je skoraj nemogoče dobiti, bom pa sigurno poizkusil en tak mix drugo leto vsaj za eno rožo če bom dobil kakšen nadomestek... Ve kdo kakšne sestavine vsebuje ?
Ve kdo kakšne sestavine vsebuje ?
Agropop
Member
Lp, ali kdo uporablja tako zemljo http://img407.imageshack.us/i/alim1588.jpg/
Ali je ta zemlja dobra za naše rože, ali bi bilo bolje vzeti kakšno drugo, boljšo zemljo (plantella,asef...)?
Ali je ta zemlja dobra za naše rože, ali bi bilo bolje vzeti kakšno drugo, boljšo zemljo (plantella,asef...)?
Evo bom malo zjebal cene hemp shopom..
Vermikulit dobite v Krškem-bulk varijanta-3* ceneje kot v grow shopu..16 ojrov za 100l
http://www.izolacija.vermit-group.si/vermit/slo/biovermit.htm
Perlit imajo v Cinkarni Celje(industrijska prodajalna)smešno poceni..20 ojrov za 200l
Zemljo tudi jaz uporabljam N8(ima dodane huminske kisline)
Vermicompost od Biobrazde
http://www.biobrazda-sp.si/index.php?id=biobrazda_proizvod&prod_id=11
Sam dodam tudi zeolitno moko in betonitno zemljo(dodata ogromno mineralov brez spremembe PH-ja
http://www.montana-zalec.si/?viewPage=12
Ker nerad plačujem trgovcem 2-3*več kot je cena pri proizvajalcu se je treba potruditi in narediti 200-300 km pa si preskrbljen za 5+ let za 1/3 cene
Vermikulit dobite v Krškem-bulk varijanta-3* ceneje kot v grow shopu..16 ojrov za 100l
http://www.izolacija.vermit-group.si/vermit/slo/biovermit.htm
Perlit imajo v Cinkarni Celje(industrijska prodajalna)smešno poceni..20 ojrov za 200l
Zemljo tudi jaz uporabljam N8(ima dodane huminske kisline)
Vermicompost od Biobrazde
http://www.biobrazda-sp.si/index.php?id=biobrazda_proizvod&prod_id=11
Sam dodam tudi zeolitno moko in betonitno zemljo(dodata ogromno mineralov brez spremembe PH-ja
http://www.montana-zalec.si/?viewPage=12
Ker nerad plačujem trgovcem 2-3*več kot je cena pri proizvajalcu se je treba potruditi in narediti 200-300 km pa si preskrbljen za 5+ let za 1/3 cene
N8 sem dobil pri lokalnem vrtnarju..malo zbarantal..10-vreč 30% popusta
Sem jo pa lani videl v merkurju se mi zdi...
Drugače pa vzemi zemljo brez NPK-jev in raznih osmocotov če hočeš res dober heft,in sam dodaj bio gnojila!
Sam poleti posušim veliko kopriv in gabeza ga zmeljem in delam čajčke(koprive+gabez+lucerna+worm castings)
poceni i naravno je nartaboljš
Sem jo pa lani videl v merkurju se mi zdi...
Drugače pa vzemi zemljo brez NPK-jev in raznih osmocotov če hočeš res dober heft,in sam dodaj bio gnojila!
Sam poleti posušim veliko kopriv in gabeza ga zmeljem in delam čajčke(koprive+gabez+lucerna+worm castings)
poceni i naravno je nartaboljš
