Tea Article

[jaykush]

if its from a city they might do biological testing on it, might be worth asking them.

 

[Smoke Buddy]

If you're getting a white fuzzy growth on top though, I'd just mix it back in to the soil. Make sure your storing your soil in a breathable container. That means holes in the bottom and sides of the container, along with a breathable top.

Thanks CT Guy. I've been battling fungus gnats lately so I put the top on the container.. doohhh... so now I've mixed it all up and moisened a bit.. looks and smells great!~

if its from a city they might do biological testing on it, might be worth asking them.

Good idea jaykush! I'll ask about that. I will be going soon.

 

[Bud-Boy]

WOW

Lots of excellent info here!

Would making an AACT tea out of Earth Juice Bloom be a good setup?

I'd start aerating 5gal tap water 48-72 hrs before application
add ammount "X" of EJB to the aerated tap water
"brew" for 48hrs. Add anything?? molases? Humic?
apply??

I ask because I was gifted 5gal of EJB

EJB
Derived from all natural sources primarily bat guano, ancient seabird phosphate guano, sea kelp, natural sulfate of potash, steamed bone meal, oat bran, rock phosphate

 

[CT Guy]

WOW

Lots of excellent info here!

Would making an AACT tea out of Earth Juice Bloom be a good setup?

I'd start aerating 5gal tap water 48-72 hrs before application
add ammount "X" of EJB to the aerated tap water
"brew" for 48hrs. Add anything?? molases? Humic?
apply??

I ask because I was gifted 5gal of EJB

EJB
Derived from all natural sources primarily bat guano, ancient seabird phosphate guano, sea kelp, natural sulfate of potash, steamed bone meal, oat bran, rock phosphate

Personally, I would use the EJB as a "nutrient tea" not as an aerated compost tea or ingredient. You only need to aerate the water for an hour or so to remove chlorine, or let it sit out for 24 hours. Otherwise it's overkill. Brewing times are typically 24-36 hours for ACT.

For ACT you need a biology source (EWC, compost, etc) that you are adding a food source to (alfalfa meal, molasses, fish, etc...) in a medium that is high in oxygen where it can grow (essentially aerated water in a bucket).

 

[Bud-Boy]

Gotcha, missed some linking in my comprehension

So basicly just mix n use

no way of biology-ing it up? that's what I was imagining

 

[jaykush]

if you want to biology it up just make some compost tea with EWC or some good compost, and then apply the EJ to your soil, followed by ACT for best results. this way your putting the nutrients in the soil, followed by the nutrient processors.

 

[Bud-Boy]

if you want to biology it up just make some compost tea with EWC or some good compost, and then apply the EJ to your soil, followed by ACT for best results. this way your putting the nutrients in the soil, followed by the nutrient processors.

Thats x actly what im thinking

Id like to see the outdoor farms go all teas this year. I see sooo much money in bottles float around, (that could be parked in my pocket) but everyones "afraid" to go that route (on their own accord at least). (lack of info fear) I consult enough growers, Im kickin around the idea of mobile tea operation for the big boys. But I need the experience to back me, so a (nother) pilot year in "something new". But if I can keep my lil trees happy shouldnt be too much adjustment for the giants.
Humboldtlocal's trees inspired me to seriously go this route this year

 

[Microbeman]

You're up early too I see (of course that doesn't surprise me!).

My understanding is that he was looking to add it in his ACT at the beginning of the brew. Have you tested guano to have the same effect as fish? I could see where this could be the case, but then I've had no issues using kelp or humates at the end of a brew cycle either.

Also a factor is that your tea is probably going to contain more active microbes, which means higher DO requirements. He's using an EWC that may or may not be good, and we know nothing of the brewer design or motor. If the microbial counts aren't as high, it may not be as much of an issue when adding ingredients at the end of the brew cycle.

I think topdressing with the guano would be the way to go if you wanted to use it. Or as a separate "nutrient tea," mixed with your kelp, etc...and then applied without a brewing cycle.

I'm sorry for replying so late. Too many irons in the fire. If he is adding at the beginning I don't see a large issue as the microbes will deal with it. I don't like adding anything to a finished ACT but I have not tested everything. If you've tested using kelp and humic acid, I'll take your word on it until I test it myself but recall the tests we did in the 'tubes' with humic acid.....not a microbe in sight.

I think that if his system is not efficient, all more reason to not add stuff to a finished ACT. Preserve what you have.

I agree with you and Jay..topdress with guano.

 

[RipVanWeed]

JayKush and BudBoy,

IME adding EJB to your soil without bubbling up the Ph could have negative effects on your garden. I think if your mix of EJB is too strong in relation to the biology in the soil, it will over power the ability of the soil to self regulate Ph. The EJB is very acidic.

It seems as though as the quality and efficency of the soil biology increases, it can suck up "hot" nutes into the plant and burn it.

I had been brewing everything in 1 bucket, EWC, Vermiblend, and EJ products, until recently. I struggle with defiecncies, and burns...I manage to swing back and forth.

Examples



My plan is to better pre-amend the soil, leave the EJ behind, and use ACT and guano's to feed. I grow in 5g buckets and veg for a while so the girls can get pretty big. Then they rely even more on my getting the feeding right.

Oh yeah, I also switch in some Neptune's Harvest Fish/Seaweed @ about 10mil per gal. Could this be hot enough to burn?

Thoughts, input, and advice are welcome.

Thank You, Much Respect,

 

[Sourbear]

For 4 gallons of water, I am using a cup and a half of earth worm castings
and 8 tablespoons of Hibrix Molasses.
For my ACT
Should I add more EWC/Molasses?
After 24-36 hours of bubbling it smells a little sweet.

 

[NAD]

I use 1 TEASPOON per gallon of blackstrap, a little goes a long way.

Original recipe from the very first page of this thread:


"Here's a recipe from Dr. Ingham of Soil Food Web Labs (www.soilfoodweb.com):

5 gal brewer
1 lb. compost
½ cup of humic acid
1 to 3 T. of kelp
1 tsp. of non-sulfured, blackstrap molasses"

LESS IS MORE! I know its hard not to add stuff. Really isn't necessary to add anything but to add good compost and a bit of molasses.

Using a tablespoon of molasses per gallon is looking for trouble.


not trying to say anything negative about what works for others.

 

[heady blunts]

finally got a little tea brewing station set up. using the "60+gal" aquarium pump from petco. i've been making a tea bag with cheesecloth, putting two of the four air stones inside the bag amongst the EWC. the other two also go in the tank. i weigh them with a stainless steel butter knife to keep the bubbles coming from the bottom. here's my recipe:

~2gal pre bubbled tap water
~3/4c EWC
~1 tbsp kelp extract
~1 tbsp fish hydrolysate
~1/4 tsp barley malt

only on my third brew, but it's coming out pretty beautiful. now all i need is a microscope!

ps- the stainless steel knife was my best idea for a sterile weight. anyone see any problems with that or have better suggestions?

 

[Microbeman]

1 gallon = 16 cups = 256 tablespoons

2.38% by volume compost or vermicompost (EWC) per gallon = .38 cups or around half a cup max or about 2 cups in 5 gallons max.

0.5 to 0.75% molasses by volume per gallon = 1.28 to 1.92 tablespoons per gallon. 0.75% is the maximum I use. It is a good bacterial and fungal food.

0.063% fish hydrolysate by volume per gallon = 0.16 tablespoon = 0.479 teaspoons or half a teaspoon

0.25% (max) kelpmeal by volume per gallon = 0.64 tablespoon or half a tablespoon

In my opinion it is a little confusing for someone to say to use a weight of compost. What is that? Wet it down and a pound becomes less.

Why is using a tablespoon of black strap molasses per gallon looking for trouble? Using a 1/2 cup of humic acid in 5 gallons is trouble for sure according to my and CT Guy's testing.

 

[heady blunts]

micro-

sounds like i should be putting a lot more molasses/barley malt, and a bit less fish guts.

thanks for the condensed info!

ps- i'm probably not the first person to figure this out, but i was having trouble adding the molasses/barley malt due to its consistency, but i've figured out warming up a couple tablespoons of water and dissolving it into that, then adding that solution to the brewer is a lot easier.

 

[someotherguy]

CT Guy, Microbeman or Clackamas Coot, this is a bit off topic but i was wondering if i could get some advice on beneficial spider-mite controls and reliable suppliers as i have an infestation that i have been holding back with frequent sprayings and No Pest Strips for close to a year now and i'm getting tired of seeing them in my garden.

anyway, i've only recently committed to organic growing, i'm brewing my 3rd 5 gallon tea (3 cups EWC, 1 tablespoon of blackstrap molasses and 2 scoops of Super Tea mix from the Guano Co. and 1 scoop of FoxFarms, Peace-of-Mind All-purpose 5-5-5 [scoops are aprox. 2 tablespoons])

my point is, i stopped using the No Pest strips because i don't want to kill anything beneficial but, at the same time, i don't want the mites to now be able to flourish so i'd like to add beneficials.

lol, hence my question to you organic old-timers.

anyway, thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

peace, SOG

 

[grapeman]

A question for CTGuy & MicrobeMan.

In my area our local USDA Soil scientist that I've used and known for 30 years retired and formed a company selling EWC, Mycos, Azo and other various bacterias to local farmers and large nutrient companies for re-packaging. I'm meeting with him next week to pick up some comp'ed products.

In discussions with him he informed me that he is also brewing specific teas for the local farmers. I told him that I was doing the home brewed thing for my tomatoes.

He asked me what my ph was of my finished tea. I told him I've never checked it really. He says that if it isn't under a ph of 3 or 4 it is worthless as at that level or less, it is full or "organic acids", which is what he says is most beneficial. Higher then that and it is not worth applying.

I've never seen a post here about the ph of a finished tea (I might have missed it) so I am wondering if there is validity to this statement.

Thanks

 

[Thomkal Vwalaa]

A question for CTGuy & MicrobeMan.

In my area our local USDA Soil scientist that I've used and known for 30 years retired and formed a company selling EWC, Mycos, Azo and other various bacterias to local farmers and large nutrient companies for re-packaging. I'm meeting with him next week to pick up some comp'ed products.

In discussions with him he informed me that he is also brewing specific teas for the local farmers. I told him that I was doing the home brewed thing for my tomatoes.

He asked me what my ph was of my finished tea. I told him I've never checked it really. He says that if it isn't under a ph of 3 or 4 it is worthless as at that level or less, it is full or "organic acids", which is what he says is most beneficial. Higher then that and it is not worth applying.

I've never seen a post here about the ph of a finished tea (I might have missed it) so I am wondering if there is validity to this statement.

Thanks

Hey, I know this wasn't asked of me, but my tea (bountea) comes out around 6.0 pH with RO water. Hope "he" is not correct. I thought this was about life, not organic acids.

 

[Stankie]

I also am not CT Guy, MM, or CC, but maybe he was referring to a fermented plant extract? With EM concoctions I know the finished pH is supposed to be 3.4 or below. Never heard anything similar for an AACT. Make sure you two are referring to the same 'tea'....as in nutrient tea, microbe tea, or fermented tea.

I pH'd my AACT once and it was 7.0. 1st and last time I did that.

 

[Microbeman]

CT Guy, Microbeman or Clackamas Coot, this is a bit off topic but i was wondering if i could get some advice on beneficial spider-mite controls and reliable suppliers as i have an infestation that i have been holding back with frequent sprayings and No Pest Strips for close to a year now and i'm getting tired of seeing them in my garden.

anyway, i've only recently committed to organic growing, i'm brewing my 3rd 5 gallon tea (3 cups EWC, 1 tablespoon of blackstrap molasses and 2 scoops of Super Tea mix from the Guano Co. and 1 scoop of FoxFarms, Peace-of-Mind All-purpose 5-5-5 [scoops are aprox. 2 tablespoons])

my point is, i stopped using the No Pest strips because i don't want to kill anything beneficial but, at the same time, i don't want the mites to now be able to flourish so i'd like to add beneficials.

lol, hence my question to you organic old-timers.

anyway, thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

peace, SOG

I used persimilis and lady bugs to control spider mites. Use the lady bugs first as they don't normally last that long, followed by persimillis which can stick around a long time. Coot may know places in the USA to get bugs. I had a living soil going in bins so had natural populations of rove beetles and cucumeris (sp?) as well which go for two spot spider mites a little. I'd simplify my compost tea were I you. [just (vermi)compost and foods]

 

[Microbeman]

A question for CTGuy & MicrobeMan.

In my area our local USDA Soil scientist that I've used and known for 30 years retired and formed a company selling EWC, Mycos, Azo and other various bacterias to local farmers and large nutrient companies for re-packaging. I'm meeting with him next week to pick up some comp'ed products.

In discussions with him he informed me that he is also brewing specific teas for the local farmers. I told him that I was doing the home brewed thing for my tomatoes.

He asked me what my ph was of my finished tea. I told him I've never checked it really. He says that if it isn't under a ph of 3 or 4 it is worthless as at that level or less, it is full or "organic acids", which is what he says is most beneficial. Higher then that and it is not worth applying.

I've never seen a post here about the ph of a finished tea (I might have missed it) so I am wondering if there is validity to this statement.

Thanks

He is 100% full of sxxxt! I have checked pH on many many many finished brews and the pH can vary widely. A CT which finishes between 5 and 7 pH is desirable as there is more liklihood of a diversity of live microbes. Under 4 pH bacteria begin going dormant or die which is why food testers use it as a guideline for safety for consumption. (naturally acid trends to fungal; alkali trends to bacterial) What kind of scientist is he??? It sounds like he is talking about EM fermentations. Feel free to refer him to me via my webpage.

If he is really talking aerated compost tea he has not a clue (unless fermenting) and should not be spreading this misinformation.