Never learned to press right

[TriWingGirl]

We all have leaf to make Keefe out of, and some other stuff. I was never taught to press it into hash properly. i have read all the books and tried all the ways except extracting oil. I always get something different but not like it should be.

I have a box with a screen so i know how to get good material, I've tried to put it in my hand and work it with my thumb it always just Gets lost and makes a mess what am i doing wrong how do i press it right.

i have a twist press it makes nice cookies but just not right. i have tried heating it, to help melt the crystals together. did not work.

I know the objective is to heat the crystals ; either from pressure from a press or warm heat and pressure hand and thumb. I was just never shown how, i have trouble putting some things into practice with out seeing it done.

I've used ice bags most of the good stuff pulled though both bags and was unrecoverable. what was caught did press and stick together. just made a mess. i know Keefe won't stick together and if it does it gets real hard and won't fluff up.

how do i press good material and get what i want to kill the pain, and not waste it. the unpressed is harsh and not as good as it should be. It works good for cooking but if i could get something pressed it would be better to. I know pressing makes it stronger. i've done the butter thing to.

Is there anything out there that can show me how to do this.

I have learned a lot from this site so thank you for being patient with me and all the help you have given and will give

 

[RulaTone]

Usually if you can't get the powder fixed is because the material is not pure enough.
Can you explain how you obtain the powder you mentioned?

Probably green matter particles are in the powder and avoid it's full melting into the cream form you are looking for.

To heat the powder is the right move to get it creamy:
If you have a very very clean drysift it probably will melt in your palms without adding more heating. Just manipulate with your warm hands and you will obtain the cream.

If it is not so clean but without big impurities you will have to add more heat, using the rosin method (bain-marie and inox bowl) setting temperature at around 70°c.
You can do this with your bubblehash also.
But remember everytime you add heat to the powder you are losing taste, so don't heat too much.

I suggest you for the Kif to refilter it on a 100u mesh
and for bubblehash try starting with better material and shake with care.

 

[TriWingGirl]

Thats what I've been told Thank you It helps it verifies more than what i was told, explains a lot to.

I'm processing to much It's hard to know when to stop Never been shown, seen all the video's

Lost my pressing sceens. Oh Well guess i need more practice

I'll keep trying

Thank you Very Much Very Helpful

 

[Chamba]

I suggest you for the Kif to refilter it on a 100u mesh

bad advice.

resin heads range in size from 50 ~ 110 micron, so re-sifting that purchased dry sift over a 100 micron mesh would not be a good idea.

at $25 per gram, I wouldn't try to re-sift it.....you are better off buying decent quality in the first place.

To press dry sift into a solid form, spoon about a gram into a cupped palm, with the other hand use your thumb to press and twist the dry sift powder into a putty. If it takes more than 15 seconds of really hard pressing to form that $25 per gram dry sift into a solid, then there's obviously too much contaminant (broken up leaf) in there and you paid too much for it.

anyway, try growing your own and after your first harvest, you won't be smoking low quality hash made from second rate trim from badly grown, over-fertilized plants that are most likely choc full of chemical additives....instead you'll be smoking the world's best hash made from bud that hasn't been force fed and mauled.

 

[Bionic]

Where does it say she bought it?

 

[TriWingGirl]

You Have Me Confuse with someone else

You Have Me Confuse with someone else

I'm a medicinal grower who is licensed to grow. i only use my own left overs, I do not purchase any product nor sell said product that would be illegal here. i follow the law. I'm hoping when it changes i can start a business yes. But only as my state allows.

So cost does not apply thank you.

In my case rescreening might work i have a tendency to over process

 

[Papulz]

just watch for the color change on your collection plate. you want gold but not green.

also you can stop every few mins and test a small bit of the powder to ascertain quality.

 

[mriko]

Usually if you can't get the powder fixed is because the material is not pure enough.

That's the most logical explaination indeed

I'm processing to much It's hard to know when to stop Never been shown, seen all the video's

Maybe you should train on smaller quantity & divide the sieving time in two. Keep in mind that the best quality resin comes first (I'm talking dry sieving here).
I use a single cloth for my dry sieving (can't remember the mesh, sorry), and I usually make two sieving with the trim. First one produces a definitely better quality which requires little pressure for pressing.

so yes, work with smaller quantity at a time, if working with a single sieve then divide your sieving time in two, at least. Ideally you should buy a whole set of sieving screens so you can sort out the different grades (your customers will love it), http://www.art2screenprint.com/Wooden_Screens

And don't forget to give the trim or loose resin enough curing time before the pressing, so the whole organoleptic & therapeutic potential can reveal itself. Curing is the difference between resin & hash !

Irie !

 

[TriWingGirl]

Yea I've noticed that: but there are always left over crystals on the left over material. So i would process it longer.

But i see what you mean take a smaller amount break it up screen it for a short while and repeat with another small amount. Build up a pile. Use that to make the good stuff out of, then finish processing the left over for cooking or just smoke it.

I got used to just stuffing that nug in the roor. Guess i should start breaking it up in my box first. EEHHH i got lazy.

Once again i need to just chill and stop trying so hard, I'm learning. Like everything else this just takes time and patients.

Cool Learned more here in a few months than in the 10 years I've been doing this. Thank you all for filling in the gaps. Books are great but it help to have someone to ask questions. It helps me to confirm things and always helps to ask when I'm not sure.

You have been helpful Thank you

 

[Chamba]

Where does it say she bought it?

it doesn't,

the only explanation I can think of is that I must of read another thread and commented on it on this thread.....(yes, the shit I'm smoking right now is a bit trippy lol)...but at least I got part of it right, a 100 micron mesh is not suitable for normal sifting or resifting with most strains.

One way is to gently sift your material through a 150 micron ("100 Mesh") and then resift with a 125 micron ("125 Mesh"). This will allow most of the resin heads to be separated from the plant material while minimizing the amount of rubbish getting in with the resin.

Keep in mind that is better all round with dry sifting (with the initial 1st run of the material) to not let the broken up leaf material in with your resin in the first place (by being gentle) than it is to try and remove it later.

Resin made this way will easily press together cold with minimal pressing......the need for high heat and tonnes of pressure required is Nature's way of telling you there's way too much broken leaf dust in there with the resin.

Happy Hashing.....I hope I posted this in the right thread!

 

[RulaTone]

I suggest you for the Kif to refilter it on a 100u mesh

bad advice.

resin heads range in size from 50 ~ 110 micron, so re-sifting that purchased dry sift over a 100 micron mesh would not be a good idea.

Sorry for the misunderstanding but i'm not that good in english so i translated badly.
I was referring to a second filtration for the kief over a 100 micron screen not a 100 mesh screen. (wich is 150 micron)
I wrote 100u mesh wich makes no sense.
I hope now sounds better.
Thanks

 

[RulaTone]

One way is to gently sift your material through a 150 micron ("100 Mesh") and then resift with a 125 micron ("125 Mesh"). This will allow most of the resin heads to be separated from the plant material while minimizing the amount of rubbish getting in with the resin.

125 microns should correspond to 120 mesh
105 microns to 140 mesh

 

[TriWingGirl]

Very Cool

Very Cool

Very cool I love this site Everyone is friendly and very helpful


Thank you all

 

[Bionic]

Where does it say she bought it?

it doesn't,

the only explanation I can think of is that I must of read another thread and commented on it on this thread.....(yes, the shit I'm smoking right now is a bit trippy lol)...but at least I got part of it right, a 100 micron mesh is not suitable for normal sifting or resifting with most strains.

Then why did I get neg'ed?

 

[mriko]

Yea I've noticed that: but there are always left over crystals on the left over material. So i would process it longer.

But i see what you mean take a smaller amount break it up screen it for a short while and repeat with another small amount. Build up a pile. Use that to make the good stuff out of, then finish processing the left over for cooking or just smoke it.

Do you think about freezing the plant material before sieving ? This is very important, even crucial. Don't forget also to re-freeze the material after the first sieving. Put the plant material back to freezing temps as soon as you're done with it.

Irie !

 

[Chamba]

Then why did I get neg'ed?

why don't you ask the member who gave it to you?...then again why bother.

If I get a neg rep (not that it happens that often!), I usually give them positive rep back with something along the lines of " big thanks!....Keep the good vibes coming!" if they posted on the same thread.....I bet they wonder if they made a mistake and hit the positive button instead...lol

 

[Chamba]

125 microns should correspond to 120 mesh
105 microns to 140 mesh

Not always.

Not all. for example 125 meshes, have the same size openings.

"Mesh" or lines per inch, tells us how many threads or lines per linear inch...micron is a metric measurement of the gap between each thread. The mesh's open area width measurements depends on the thickness of the threads, so one "125 mesh" may have openings of 130 micron, but with thicker threads, another 125 mesh mightl have smaller mesh openings of 120. ......but you are right, a majority of 125 meshes have a 120 ~ 125 micron distances between each thread.

the important point to note is that mesh sizes are not that important, don't get hung up on getting 125 micron mesh when 130, 135 or 140 micron mesh (or 105, 110, 120, 125, 130 lines per inch "Mes"h etc) will do a good job too.....the technique and the quality of the starting material are more important factors to consider when dry sifting.

 

[Chamba]

Do you think about freezing the plant material before sieving ? This is very important, even crucial. Don't forget also to re-freeze the material after the first sieving. Put the plant material back to freezing temps as soon as you're done with it.

Irie !

good advice Mriko.....working with frozen material and or dry sifting in really cold, dry conditions really does improve your purity as well as the speed at which the resin separates from the material and passes through the mesh.

If anyone had to write a how to dry sift in just 3 short sentences, then it would probably be as follows....

1) Freeze your dry plant material
2) Gently dry sift over a 120 ~ 140 micron mesh
3) Monitor your progress with a 20X magnifying glass

 

[treeofsatta]

Are you working with large quantities or small quantities?

I normally take all my crystals from bubblebag runs and put it in cellophane then stick in my shoe and walk around for a day or two. Always works really well and turns it into proper full melt hashish.