getting MOLD inside middle of BUDS
- Thread starter pftek
- Start date
your humidity is to high,
get a dehumidifier,
alternatively do more exhaust
you basically need to move your air around to help this
I am betting that your rooms Relative Humidity is above 70%
are the windows getting wet from humidity, condensation?
it might be powdery mildew, I don't see a pic so just taken a helpful guess in case.
add a pic to for extra help.
get a dehumidifier,
alternatively do more exhaust
you basically need to move your air around to help this
I am betting that your rooms Relative Humidity is above 70%
are the windows getting wet from humidity, condensation?
it might be powdery mildew, I don't see a pic so just taken a helpful guess in case.
add a pic to for extra help.
cut out the mold and let the bud grow on.
http://www.amazon.com/LG-LHD459EL-4...?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1291794594&sr=1-27
mine if you want to see, has hose to drain into reservoir or just let bucket fill...
cheap, plus works great for me
http://www.amazon.com/LG-LHD459EL-4...?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1291794594&sr=1-27
mine if you want to see, has hose to drain into reservoir or just let bucket fill...
cheap, plus works great for me
pftek
Member
that's what i'm doing now as well. dropped the humidity to 50%... i had higher humidity. now will the mold stop if it already started??
pftek
Member
btw how much air circulation do you need? i have air moving above and slightly hitting the plants. when i used to hit the plants i got wind burn.
Ludo
Member
The mold will not stop unless bud is dried out. Chop and/or cut infected bud away and discard....DO NOT SMOKE INFECTED BUD...!!!
You can give them an UV treatment, but this is tricky....if you want, just pm me and I'll write info on how to do....there are threads regarding this subject in here...!! The UV-light kills all bacteria and fungus.....!!! One or two treatments should do.
50% humidity is not low enough at this point.....go as low as possible.........IMO.
Good luck
You can give them an UV treatment, but this is tricky....if you want, just pm me and I'll write info on how to do....there are threads regarding this subject in here...!! The UV-light kills all bacteria and fungus.....!!! One or two treatments should do.
50% humidity is not low enough at this point.....go as low as possible.........IMO.
Good luck
pftek
Member
The mold will not stop unless bud is dried out. Chop and/or cut infected bud away and discard....DO NOT SMOKE INFECTED BUD...!!!
You can give them an UV treatment, but this is tricky....if you want, just pm me and I'll write info on how to do....there are threads regarding this subject in here...!! The UV-light kills all bacteria and fungus.....!!! One or two treatments should do.
50% humidity is not low enough at this point.....go as low as possible.........IMO.
Good luck
thanks will do. will drop even lower. i was worried i'd dry out the bud growing if i dropped it too low.
You gotta cut it out bro, once its started its hard to get it to stop, remember inside the Buds its verging on total saturation, esp with very Large fat Buds & if these spores have bloomed(Botrytitis/Grey Mold etc) the only answer is to cut the affected area out. Grab your Colas & gently bend them & pull the clusters of Calyx in an up & down motion so you can see the centre of the buds, Check them all, remove infected areas, youve already reduced Humidity to where it should have been. drop RH to 35-40% i would.
Bicarbonate of soda is known to work, applied as a foliar, also Liquid silicon used in earlier development is known to form a protective barrier. There's varios spray treatments/Fungicides but you gotta cut that shit out of the Bud. get some pics up so we can see the infections development bro asap, Ive been meaning to try a product called Budrotstop for a while, its supposed to make all Mold spores germinate & then kill them as they do forming a protective barrier, might be worth a look too. I lost a major fat(5"fat) AK47/Lowryder#2 cross, it was 20" high & prolly the fattest Bud ive ever seen. I suspected Mold because of its thickness so i did what ive told you to do & pulled open my bud to check, sure enough- white cobwebs like whispy clouds of a cotton candy like substance was observed, fk i thought, That old chestnut - Botrytis, i lost over 25% prolly more like 35% of the monster Bud(Single Cola), i was devestated.
This happened in 50%-60% RH which aint bad at all, but i imagine inside that fatty it was more like 95%-100% RH, completely saturated, id get that RH as low as you can for now too, de-humidify. Good luck bro!
(you can use Copper sulphate too again as a foliar but i never bother with it)
You need to post this in the infirmary section. & Get some pics up or if you cant post your own pics, an example from somewhere else that looks exactly the same will help!
UV-C destroys DNA & will kill mold spores i believe, but ive never tried it tbh. Ive got an edition of Urban Gardener that covers this in detail, check/search!
Bicarbonate of soda is known to work, applied as a foliar, also Liquid silicon used in earlier development is known to form a protective barrier. There's varios spray treatments/Fungicides but you gotta cut that shit out of the Bud. get some pics up so we can see the infections development bro asap, Ive been meaning to try a product called Budrotstop for a while, its supposed to make all Mold spores germinate & then kill them as they do forming a protective barrier, might be worth a look too. I lost a major fat(5"fat) AK47/Lowryder#2 cross, it was 20" high & prolly the fattest Bud ive ever seen. I suspected Mold because of its thickness so i did what ive told you to do & pulled open my bud to check, sure enough- white cobwebs like whispy clouds of a cotton candy like substance was observed, fk i thought, That old chestnut - Botrytis, i lost over 25% prolly more like 35% of the monster Bud(Single Cola), i was devestated.
This happened in 50%-60% RH which aint bad at all, but i imagine inside that fatty it was more like 95%-100% RH, completely saturated, id get that RH as low as you can for now too, de-humidify. Good luck bro!
(you can use Copper sulphate too again as a foliar but i never bother with it)
You need to post this in the infirmary section. & Get some pics up or if you cant post your own pics, an example from somewhere else that looks exactly the same will help!
UV-C destroys DNA & will kill mold spores i believe, but ive never tried it tbh. Ive got an edition of Urban Gardener that covers this in detail, check/search!
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if you're not using co2, then just get a charcoal filter attached to a fan to blow air out the room, here's a video for ideas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmHp2ydAv1s&feature=related
you don't want the heat exchanger it'll add humidity but you get the idea.
from this video you have many links to opp rooms and set ups for ideas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmHp2ydAv1s&feature=related
you don't want the heat exchanger it'll add humidity but you get the idea.
from this video you have many links to opp rooms and set ups for ideas
adding an oscillating fan should help. ive been told that you want every leaf in your room to wiggle a little when your fan(s) pass over them. If your leaves dont wiggle a pocket of stale air can form around the leaf. the stale air can become depleted of co2 (slowing growth) and leave you exposed to fungal and pest attack. if your not running co2, the air in your room should be completely exchanged very often.
good luck
You need to re-think your ventilation bro, once every '2'?? Hours, your way out & asking for trouble(unless you are running Co2). you need at least 2 times a minute imo, 3 would be more paletable(3 times per minute-yeah?). The bare minimum recommended is 20 airchanges an hour bro, but this is knowhere near enough when using HID lighting(Imo) unless your using AC Lighting then 20 acph is fine! Best of Luck~!
Unless your growing in CGE environment & using Co2, then you dont need air-changes at all.
Here's the equasion for ya mate: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_changes_per_hour,
(note 20-60 acph in a commercial kitchen!!!)
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I appreciate you concern. I dont even know were i was going with that bit of info, so i deleted it. your correct, air should be exchanged as often as possible if not running co2. I have a sentinel environmental controller and i have an 8 burner propane co2 generator, and my ventilation system can exchange the air in my room faster then once every two hours. My vent fans can move a total 0f 3100 cfm when they are turned on, which happens once every two hours. my room has a weird shape and im to lazy to do the more complicated calculation. the air exchange rate would be roughly 2 times per min except the ceiling is lower in part of the room.
I thought something was a bit wrong with your advice bro, i want a propane burner too, explains it all! Respect!
C
cvk
All you have to do is spray them once with Green Cure and the mold is gone. You can spray your buds up to a few days before harvest. I always rinse those sprayed plants with clear water a couple of days before harvest to get rid of any residue
Bullshit, mold does not vanish by magic spray, and getting buds wet before harvest is a real bad idea.
And your leaves got wind burned? Plants live in the wind, they do not get wind burn, you are misunderstanding something. Increase airflow, lower humidity, keep buds under four inches in diameter, larger than that some are gonna mold, before you see it.
I was fucking outside 30 years ago and my ass got wind burned.
H
And your leaves got wind burned? Plants live in the wind, they do not get wind burn, you are misunderstanding something. Increase airflow, lower humidity, keep buds under four inches in diameter, larger than that some are gonna mold, before you see it.
I was fucking outside 30 years ago and my ass got wind burned.
H
C
Cheeb
I guess it'd be great to have that kind of air exchange but you DONT NEED. Exchanging all of the air in the room once every 2-3 minutes is good. Once every 5 minutes is fine if you're not concerned about heat.
Telling people that they NEED to swap air 3 times a minutes would result in them buying exhaust fan way overkill.
2100 CFM in a 10x10 room as you suggest is a lot and just isnt necessary.
350CFM or so is fine.
By all means go overkill on your exhaust/airflow.. the more the better - but not absolutely a must.
- -
For MOLD I'd recommend foliar with SM-90 up until week 2 flower. Keep humidity low and airflow through canopy good. I've scaled back aggressive pruning for massive colas to prevent mold as well. Pruning is good, but going extreme can lead to too large/dense colas where mold is likely.
D
DiiZZii3
As long as u cut all of it out its gone, unless u give it the climate to start up again, which it sounds like u got that under controll now so i'd say ur good.
By the way man im very curious what does wind burn look like? a thick stem?
By the way man im very curious what does wind burn look like? a thick stem?
Read the post carefully, i explain it as 20 ACH(air changes per hour-acph') as a mimimum. When using HID lighting its better to have overkill CFM exhaust to help cooling. IMO its also great advise, In SOG or Scrog conditions with 1000w HIDs its essential, again IMO, I never said its an absolute MUST for 2-3 acph! if you worked out 20 acph as a minimum like i advised, how many times is that a minute?. btw, i use 3-4 acp/minute, most of the time. Overkill with exhaust is a good thing as long as you can control RH!
have you ever heard of something called a 'Fan Speed Controller' ?? LOL In the OP's case its better to have too much CFM exhaust than not enough, yes?
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