Best Pollen extractor for bad back....
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kushkommander
Member
tumblenow and bubblebox ftw
C
Chamba
In regards to dry sift and resin, I think the word "pollen" came from the Dutch word "pollem".
Pollen or pollem extraction is legal, hashish or resin is not, so for advertising tumblers in Europe they came up with a general term "pollem", which could be from any plant then English speakers bastardized the term and write it as pollen some refer to as dry sifted resin.
Pollen or pollem extraction is legal, hashish or resin is not, so for advertising tumblers in Europe they came up with a general term "pollem", which could be from any plant then English speakers bastardized the term and write it as pollen some refer to as dry sifted resin.
TheHashAssassin
Active member
I would suggest ordering some pre made screens for dry sifting, or make your own, 1 - 160u, 1 - 140u, 1 - 120u, and 1 - 110u (or around there). Use a paint strainer bag to shake the leaf with inside a bucket, once you collect a nice size pile of crude kif, run it through the 4 framed screens. You can easily make very very very pure dry sift this way, and with no stress on the back.
C
Chamba
I would suggest ordering some pre made screens for dry sifting, or make your own,1 - 160u, 1 - 140u, 1 - 120u, and 1 - 110u (or around there).
Good advice! DIY is definitely the way to go if you have the time, tools and ability. Just like growing your own, making your own equipment is very satisfying, as is making & smoking your own hash.
Check out Bubbleman's dry sifting kit (consisting of four screen frames, the top frame is stainless steel mesh) for sale at icmag sponsor www.aqualabtechnologies.com
Here's the specs
1. 160 micron stainless steel mesh
2. 140 micron nylon mesh
3. 107 micron nylon mesh
4. 70 micron nylon mesh
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/medi...reens/dry-sift-screen-set-by-bubble-bags.html
(edit : I just noticed they are sold out at the moment and there's lots of special prices on offer.....check out their other dry sifting boxes : http://aqualabtechnologies.com/medical-equipment/dry-sifting-screens.html
and the tumble now : http://aqualabtechnologies.com/medi...w/tumble-now-rotator-dry-sifting-machine.html )
There's lots of combinations of mesh sizes that will work and lots of different techniques that you could use too, it all depends on the plant material and meshes you have available. Keep in mind that a majority of resin heads on most modern hybrids at harvest are within a range of 60 ~ 120 micron and many strains have a "sweet spot" range of trichome or resin head sizes in the 85 ~ 105 range. Also note that it's a lot easier to try and isolate resin heads within a range of 80 ~ 110 micron than it is within a range of 60 ~ 110 micron meshes as debris passes through fine meshes like the 50, 60 and 70 microns much slower than when using a bottom mesh of 80 or 90 micron meshes.
But if quality is your aim then one way is to firstly gently dry sift small amounts of frozen material at a time with a mesh size that has openings that are slightly larger than the resin heads then work the resulting resin over a mesh that has openings that are slightly smaller than the majority of the resin heads.
This technique will allow the minimum of broken plant matter to pass through the mesh and what debris does, can be broken up and carded through the bottom mesh, leaving mostly resin heads in between.
Depending on the starting material, you could use a 140, 125 or 107 micron mesh then a 70 micron....or you could use 115 and 80 micron and isolate an even narrower size range of resin heads.
Good advice! DIY is definitely the way to go if you have the time, tools and ability. Just like growing your own, making your own equipment is very satisfying, as is making & smoking your own hash.
Check out Bubbleman's dry sifting kit (consisting of four screen frames, the top frame is stainless steel mesh) for sale at icmag sponsor www.aqualabtechnologies.com
Here's the specs
1. 160 micron stainless steel mesh
2. 140 micron nylon mesh
3. 107 micron nylon mesh
4. 70 micron nylon mesh
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/medi...reens/dry-sift-screen-set-by-bubble-bags.html
(edit : I just noticed they are sold out at the moment and there's lots of special prices on offer.....check out their other dry sifting boxes : http://aqualabtechnologies.com/medical-equipment/dry-sifting-screens.html
and the tumble now : http://aqualabtechnologies.com/medi...w/tumble-now-rotator-dry-sifting-machine.html )
There's lots of combinations of mesh sizes that will work and lots of different techniques that you could use too, it all depends on the plant material and meshes you have available. Keep in mind that a majority of resin heads on most modern hybrids at harvest are within a range of 60 ~ 120 micron and many strains have a "sweet spot" range of trichome or resin head sizes in the 85 ~ 105 range. Also note that it's a lot easier to try and isolate resin heads within a range of 80 ~ 110 micron than it is within a range of 60 ~ 110 micron meshes as debris passes through fine meshes like the 50, 60 and 70 microns much slower than when using a bottom mesh of 80 or 90 micron meshes.
But if quality is your aim then one way is to firstly gently dry sift small amounts of frozen material at a time with a mesh size that has openings that are slightly larger than the resin heads then work the resulting resin over a mesh that has openings that are slightly smaller than the majority of the resin heads.
This technique will allow the minimum of broken plant matter to pass through the mesh and what debris does, can be broken up and carded through the bottom mesh, leaving mostly resin heads in between.
Depending on the starting material, you could use a 140, 125 or 107 micron mesh then a 70 micron....or you could use 115 and 80 micron and isolate an even narrower size range of resin heads.
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TheHashAssassin
Active member
I have recently used a set of screens from bubbleman, and personally I wouldnt put the money out for them, hence the suggestion of making your own. If ones too lazy to actually attach the screen to frames, I would imagine you could do it morrocan stylee by securing with some rubberbands over a big metal bowl and stretched tight.
C
Chamba
I would imagine you could do it morrocan stylee by securing with some rubberbands over a big metal bowl and stretched tight.
I've seen dozens of photos of those Maroc style dry sifting tubs with mesh stretched over....but it could be so much better to work with if they had sides so the plant material doesn't just slide off the edges of the tub they use. Bubbleman's dry sifting screens are not just screen printing frames with the right meshes attached, they are purpose built for dry sifting, the top frame sides are high so no plant material spills over, each frame interconnects with the other to ensure no slippage, the bottom frame mesh is 1/4" above the bottom of the frame so the small particles pass through more easily and the top screen has tough S/S mesh so is virtually unbreakable...these are on special now at Aqulabtechnologies.com
Happy Hashing!
I've seen dozens of photos of those Maroc style dry sifting tubs with mesh stretched over....but it could be so much better to work with if they had sides so the plant material doesn't just slide off the edges of the tub they use. Bubbleman's dry sifting screens are not just screen printing frames with the right meshes attached, they are purpose built for dry sifting, the top frame sides are high so no plant material spills over, each frame interconnects with the other to ensure no slippage, the bottom frame mesh is 1/4" above the bottom of the frame so the small particles pass through more easily and the top screen has tough S/S mesh so is virtually unbreakable...these are on special now at Aqulabtechnologies.com
Happy Hashing!
C
Chamba
If you are willing to spend the money, then get a pollinator. Fully automatic, easy to use, expensive, but good quality drysieve.
I own or have immediate access to an Okief, Pollenator and a Tumble Now tumbler...they all will do the job, but the Tumble Now has the potential to produce a much purer result.
The Pollenator and Okief tumblers are plastic storage containers with a motor attached. The Tumble Now is the next generation of tumbler design with the extra screen for those who want to take their dry sifting to the next level and there's also a pull out drawer/resin tray too which is much more efficient than the other choices ...the Tumble Now is so much more user friendly and has been purpose built for dry sifting from the ground up and it shows.
As far as best features, ease of use and best value goes, the Tumble Now is definitely my first choice for tumbling.
* This was a paid advertisement for www.aqualabtechnologies.com ....lol, just kidding
I own or have immediate access to an Okief, Pollenator and a Tumble Now tumbler...they all will do the job, but the Tumble Now has the potential to produce a much purer result.
The Pollenator and Okief tumblers are plastic storage containers with a motor attached. The Tumble Now is the next generation of tumbler design with the extra screen for those who want to take their dry sifting to the next level and there's also a pull out drawer/resin tray too which is much more efficient than the other choices ...the Tumble Now is so much more user friendly and has been purpose built for dry sifting from the ground up and it shows.
As far as best features, ease of use and best value goes, the Tumble Now is definitely my first choice for tumbling.
* This was a paid advertisement for www.aqualabtechnologies.com ....lol, just kidding
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Hi ya'll!
Not an expert on the subject, so I defer to Chamba overall expertise, and generally agree with his thoughts!
I defer slightly only because I usually only dry kief 10% to keep the quality high, so I'm not an expert on what happens when you push it, other than to note that the quality of my extraction decreased.
Given the subject of the best polen extractor for a bad back, dry sieve clearly has the edge. We use a pollen sifter made out of 130 micron stainless mesh, vibrated for 3 minutes for approximately 10% from frozen material, using a palm sander. Picture attached:
Not an expert on the subject, so I defer to Chamba overall expertise, and generally agree with his thoughts!
I defer slightly only because I usually only dry kief 10% to keep the quality high, so I'm not an expert on what happens when you push it, other than to note that the quality of my extraction decreased.
Given the subject of the best polen extractor for a bad back, dry sieve clearly has the edge. We use a pollen sifter made out of 130 micron stainless mesh, vibrated for 3 minutes for approximately 10% from frozen material, using a palm sander. Picture attached:
Attachments
okief tumbler sucked i gave it away
C
Chamba
I defer slightly only because I usually only dry kief 10% to keep the quality high, so I'm not an expert on what happens when you push it, other than to note that the quality of my extraction decreased.
More often than not I try to dry sift a vast majority of the trichomes on the starting material ...it's fast, easy and I like the end result.
I push it to the limit, get one grade and my starting material is usually bud with the big leaves removed.....the "limit" being when the dry sifted resin can still be formed into a solid with a minute's worth of thumb pressure into my palm (not that I press my dry sift, I prefer it loose and unpressed...I usually use a magnifying glass to let me know when to stop working the material).
If you do not separate your dry sift into various grades, you'll be surprised just how far the material can be worked and still have the dry sifted resin form into a putty or dough (without the use of high temps and tonnes of pressure).
Even though there's a lot of contaminant in there, it still smokes up nice, you have the biggest possible pile to play with and the remaining plant material is really only good for composting (I've tried cannabutter, Bubble bags, butane and alcohol extraction on my really well sifted material and it's just not worth the trouble for the tiny returns..but then again I don't have that much to start with....the few handfuls of already well sifted ground up material would only yield a few little hits of BHO or Bubble hash.
If I had an unlimited, low cost supply of bud, then I'd aim for blond putty every time and gently dry sift the material a few handfuls of material at a time for a short duration, then re-sift the resin over finer meshes to further purify it.
Happy Hashing!
More often than not I try to dry sift a vast majority of the trichomes on the starting material ...it's fast, easy and I like the end result.
I push it to the limit, get one grade and my starting material is usually bud with the big leaves removed.....the "limit" being when the dry sifted resin can still be formed into a solid with a minute's worth of thumb pressure into my palm (not that I press my dry sift, I prefer it loose and unpressed...I usually use a magnifying glass to let me know when to stop working the material).
If you do not separate your dry sift into various grades, you'll be surprised just how far the material can be worked and still have the dry sifted resin form into a putty or dough (without the use of high temps and tonnes of pressure).
Even though there's a lot of contaminant in there, it still smokes up nice, you have the biggest possible pile to play with and the remaining plant material is really only good for composting (I've tried cannabutter, Bubble bags, butane and alcohol extraction on my really well sifted material and it's just not worth the trouble for the tiny returns..but then again I don't have that much to start with....the few handfuls of already well sifted ground up material would only yield a few little hits of BHO or Bubble hash.
If I had an unlimited, low cost supply of bud, then I'd aim for blond putty every time and gently dry sift the material a few handfuls of material at a time for a short duration, then re-sift the resin over finer meshes to further purify it.
Happy Hashing!
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C
Chamba
Grey Wolf (your avatar)...I have a black dog too, he loves standing up on his hind legs with his front paws on the top of the wall and looking out. If I stand near the wall, he will stand up beside me and lean against me. ...he's a real leaner, if I'm sitting down he will lean against me too.
TheHashAssassin
Active member
Dude, the screens that I used were put together worth shit and the design sucks in my opinion. You only have a lip on one side of the mesh, basically they took a wooden frame and glued the screen tight on one side. As a result of this you have to always keep the screen side up, and the way they stack together it is not feasible to do this. Secondly, the frames fell apart right out of the bag and had to be nailed together on the corners. Can you say shitty glue job???? Do you really think its worth shelling out the money for a product like that??? Dont get me wrong, his bags work great, but the screens suk.
Da dawgs! Thought provoking heart string jerker, aren't they!
Our G shepherds are always on top of what is going on too! Nothing escapes them, and they frequently stand on their hind legs scoping out the action on the other side of the fence. "What is wrong with this picture?"
Some have been leaners, and some just wanted to sit next to us without being petted. If we tried to pet them, they actually moved just out of reach and continued to sit beside us and beam us their soft contented smiles.
Heart warming to share the esteem that they hold for us as their buds and how far they will go to make us happy, even to the point of coming to our arms to die when their time comes
One of the best bargains mankind has ever made with another species!!! Pleased that you have one to share your soul with bro! You are in good paws with da pups!
Ohmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
