foam core for box

[jaysplifferton]

I have read on here that it is bad to use cardboard for a grow box, but what about foam core? Would that pose the same problems? I know that photographers use it to make light reflectors, and I saw a guy on youtube using it for various constituents of an ikea-based grow box, but would it be an option to craft the box out of foamcore?

If it were, then you could make one for very cheap that is super light, portable, and recyclable.

any input appreciated, thanks.

 

[fatigues]

I have read on here that it is bad to use cardboard for a grow box, but what about foam core? Would that pose the same problems? I know that photographers use it to make light reflectors, and I saw a guy on youtube using it for various constituents of an ikea-based grow box, but would it be an option to craft the box out of foamcore?

If it were, then you could make one for very cheap that is super light, portable, and recyclable.

any input appreciated, thanks.

In a word: no.

Mould is still an issue. Flamability is still an issue. Moisture damage is a huge issue.

If you want reflectivity, easy to clean, not damaged by water, light and strong as all hell? Choroplast is a vastly better choice.

Choroplast is corrugated plastic. Plastic cardboard, essentially.

You'll find it in the windows and door aisle of your local Home Depot in 4x8 sheets. In 5mm thickness, it's more than strong enough for any task you want to throw at it.

That and PL-L lights? You are good to go.

 

[jaysplifferton]

Dude. Sweet. Thanks!

Perfect response.

Also; i love your piece on legalization. I read the Ryan Grim book (your country on drugs) after reading that thread. Rock on and K++

 

[FreezerBoy]

One simple stumble will reduce a coroplast box flatter than a pancake. Plywood is a LOT cheaper. I wouldn't do it. At least use some sort of framing, be it wood, metal or PVC.

 

[fatigues]

One simple stumble will reduce a coroplast box flatter than a pancake. Plywood is a LOT cheaper. I wouldn't do it. At least use some sort of framing, be it wood, metal or PVC.

I would agree that using a light frame and choroplast is wise, though not strictly necessary. Use wood strapping 1x2 for the frame. Don't bother with PVC -- it's too expensive.

The strength of choroplast is significantly higher than you think FB. On the edge, it's tensile strength is far stronger than any plywood. When it is doubled up at the corners? That's not breaking or bending by accident: no way, no how. It's way too strong.

I'm not sure about plywood being cheaper (though it may well be). A sheet of 4x8 choroplast is about $15.00-20.00. If you can get a sheet of plywood for less than that? Okay. It's been a while since I priced plywood in 4x8 sheets. Competitively priced, at least.

What you really want is 2 or 3 sheets of it. 2 of them being white and one of them being black. An extremely sharp Exacto knife, strong metal ruler ( a 3 foot long level or T Square will do). Add an Exacto hobby knife with a mitre angled attachment (craft ctores sell them) knife for 45 degree cuts? You are golden.

Home depot sells the white sheets; black is harder to find. For light proofing and making the exterior of the unit more attractive? At least one sheet of black is definitely desireable. You can get 4x8 black choroplast from a sign shop -- the type used in political campaign-style lawn signs. It also comes in 5'x10'. (Don't get the 3mm version -- you want 5mm thickness.)

Choroplast is a joy to work with but you need to plan your cuts, like anything else. If you use carefully planned 45 degree cuts where the material is to be folded for 90 degrees, and plan your project properly, you can mould most of the cabinet with 2 continuous pieces of scored and bent choroplast.

It is exceptionally light, easily made light light proof and is food grade plastic in terms of ease of cleaning, too.

As for a general idea of what you can do with it, Hermanshooltz's Budget Grow Box Thread is missing, but the pics are in his album below.

Keep the frame, make sure to add reinforced bottom and top -- (don't leave the bottom like shown above), substitute white choroplast for cardboard on the interior, (omit the lame aluminum) add PL-L lights and reflectors and you really are good to go:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7218

 

[FreezerBoy]

I would agree that using a light frame and choroplast is wise, though not strictly necessary. Use wood strapping 1x2 for the frame. Don't bother with PVC -- it's too expensive.

The strength of choroplast is significantly higher than you think FB.

I'm very familiar with coroplast which is why my previous post reads as it does. No one intends to use their box as a soccer ball or trampoline but... life happens. One misstep and it's pancake city.

Plywood is 1/3-1/2 the cost. Without advocating PVC over other materials, 10 feet runs about $1.

To no one in particular and everyone in general, foam board has all the dangers of cardboard and more. Highly flammable and water absorbent, the fumes from burning are toxic. Please do not use foam core.

 

[jaysplifferton]

Thanks for the feedback; both of ya. it's good that there's something about this on here so that fools like me don't burn the place down.

I'm reluctant to work with plywood because i feel that it would require a lot of equipment that i don't have; or see a need to have after this project (apt living). That is what made me consider (for a moment; thank god i asked) foam core.

I am also looking for an easily convertible piece of furniture, but in the past few months haven't found anything that has called to me. Last year, my work got rid of a bunch of old furniture, among them were two small white particleboard bookcases with very thin backs that I was able to convert quite easily; but ultimately i ended up with only males. and I couldn't take them w/ me when moving.

I thiink i'll pick up a small sheet of this coroplast stuff (i don't think it has an "h", not to be a dick) to see what it is like to work with. At the very least, it seems like it would be a useful material to add a reflective surface and/or lightproofing (i hate spray paint; and my technique w/ regular paint could use some work).

 

[micro420guy]

Try a mini fridge. They are light weight once you take the mechanical parts out. They come with white plastic interior that is easy to wipe down. They have foam insulation good for sound dampening and the doors make a prefect seal.

Just my $0.02

 

[FreezerBoy]

I thiink i'll pick up a small sheet of this coroplast stuff (i don't think it has an "h", not to be a dick) to see what it is like to work with. At the very least, it seems like it would be a useful material to add a reflective surface and/or lightproofing (i hate spray paint; and my technique w/ regular paint could use some work).

Just give it a good frame. I've got a buddy who uses it for outdoor christmas displays. Billions and billions, well, whole bunches, of lights that sit outside in the weather for a month or more but, he's got sturdy aluminum frames on all of them and we still need to be careful of over flexing when moving them.

On the spell check front, coro is short for corrugated. Looks just like the cardboard that boxes are made of, only plastic.

 

[fatigues]

Try a mini fridge. They are light weight once you take the mechanical parts out. They come with white plastic interior that is easy to wipe down. They have foam insulation good for sound dampening and the doors make a prefect seal.

Just my $0.02

The space inside is usually too small to do the trick for most growers without serious modifications.

A well finished fridge grow-cab is a stealthy thing of beauty.

Getting it to that point? Not so much. Converting a mini fridge to a grow cab is an undertaking I would only wish upon a few people I have known in my life and thoroughly detested.

It is a pain in the ass venture on an epic scale, Getting rid of the insulation is a time consuming and tedious task -- and messy as all hell.

Then, as a "reward" for your efforts, you get to try and drill through sheet steel -- which is an even bigger pain in the ass then getting rid of the insulation was.

Once that's all done and you've reached the promised land? I'm sure it's a lifetime of leisure; coffee, chocolates, cognac and random babes showing up at the door to offer free blow jobs just because of your studly fridge grow-cab. FB is here as a moderator to remind us of those great rewards

Shame of it is, the free sex is just an unfounded rumour. The reality isn't worth the misery to get to that stage unless you have a plasma cutter in your garage. If you do have access to a plasma cutter - put up with the insulation removal and carve that steel like it was buttter.

Otherwise? No.

 

[FreezerBoy]

Dude, you forgot the heavenly choir and winning lottery tickets!

While free sex and great sex are not necessarily synonymous and cutting through dual, steel wall construction is a MAJOR pain, when detectives, sheriffs, paramedics, plumbers, repairmen, neighbors, family and friends can stand right next to your grow in full bloom and not have a clue... sure beats a sharp stick to the eye.

OUCH! Yep, it does, just double checked to be sure...

 

[jaysplifferton]

lol

you guys put the smart in smartass.

while i have nothing but respect and awe for a proper hollowed out fridge; i used to work as a mover, and really really hate moving fridges (it's true). Maybe if i am someday a homeowner i could commit to that. i mean, after all; free is a lot cheaper than what i'm payin for sex.

 

[micro420guy]

The space inside is usually too small to do the trick for most growers without serious modifications.

A well finished fridge grow-cab is a stealthy thing of beauty.

Getting it to that point? Not so much. Converting a mini fridge to a grow cab is an undertaking I would only wish upon a few people I have known in my life and thoroughly detested.

It is a pain in the ass venture on an epic scale, Getting rid of the insulation is a time consuming and tedious task -- and messy as all hell.

Then, as a "reward" for your efforts, you get to try and drill through sheet steel -- which is an even bigger pain in the ass then getting rid of the insulation was.

Once that's all done and you've reached the promised land? I'm sure it's a lifetime of leisure; coffee, chocolates, cognac and random babes showing up at the door to offer free blow jobs just because of your studly fridge grow-cab. FB is here as a moderator to remind us of those great rewards

Shame of it is, the free sex is just an unfounded rumour. The reality isn't worth the misery to get to that stage unless you have a plasma cutter in your garage. If you do have access to a plasma cutter - put up with the insulation removal and carve that steel like it was buttter.

Otherwise? No.

Call me lazy but I left the foam insulation in. It makes a good sound dampener and Im still left with exactly 2 sq/ft. The hardest part for me was buying a $200 stainless steel mini fridge and pulling the mechanical guts out.

BTW. I do have a plasma cutter but its totally not necessary. All tho I did use it to cut some 3/16 aluminum sheet metal to make a mount for my 2g11 sockets. Also replace the doors plastic inner cover with the same aluminum.

The white plastic/foam inside the fridge can be easily cut with an box cutter. As for making a perfect round hole for my 120mm exhaust fan.... thats what 4.5" hole saws and cordless drill are for.

Tools list.
-4.5" hole saw
-14.4 volt cordless drill
-spring loaded center punch
-screw drivers
-wire strippers
-drill bits (cheapo index from 1/16 to 3/8 bits should do)

My mini fridge specs.
-4.3 cu/ft GE mini fridge
-8 24w PLL bulbs
-120mm AC exhaust fan with speed control and capillary tube thermostat
-2 passive intakes (4.5" hole saw 2x)
-80mm pc fan for air circulation.
-Aux 12v power strip (5.8 amps max)
-DIY carbon scrubber

So far im done the temp test runs. All I need to do is pop some beans. I'm waiting for my old CFL box to finish before I start up the mini fridge. Maybe the 2 week of December?

Best part about the mini fridge is its stealth-o-rific.

I'll post some pics when I find my camera charger.