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Wheres the beef? organic = low yields????

I have been growing dilligently for 2 years now and I am 100% organic tea only nutes and i do NOT get yields or plants close to many growers on here.

HOW do I get better yields or what the hell am I NOT doing?

my setup: 1000k hps covering a 4' square, fresh air inlet separate at the floor, 400 watt metal halide veg, cool air vented through lamp.

I harvest and it tastes GREAT but I am barely getting between 3/4 - 1 oz a plant.

any and all suggestions....please.
 
hmmm could you explain in better detail what you do/use during veg? from nute strength to pot usage. I use a 250 mh for veg and a 250 hps for flower. i veg in 16 oz cups for 2 weeks then transplant to 3 gal pots for a final home i also top my plants 2-3 times. i pull almost 1.5oz-2oz each plant and thats from a single 250watt hps with atleast 3 plants in a 2'x4'x5' tent
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i do organic and get 2-4 ounces off each plant, strain dependent, 4 plants under a 250. scrog.

you can get high yields off organic, but things like training etc have more of an effect on yields imo

VG
 
I

Iron_Lion

I consistantly get 1lb from a 600 growing 100% organic but I also do what ever I can to provide the most perfect growing environment for my plants and I train them like a mofo.

I think one of the biggest things is making sure you have enough plant material under your light, cram as many in there as you can and try to keep them short so the light penetrates deeper in to the plant. Also make sure your environment is in check.
 

Lapides

Rosin Junky and Certified Worm Wrangler
Veteran
I do all organic and get a little more than 2 pounds per 1000w HPS. I don't do teas, I just mix everything together in the beginning.

Some things that have helped improve my yield over my 15+ years growing -

Get rid of all the branches/buds that are under the canopy and like VerdantGreen mentioned, training. Grow an even canopy of strictly top colas, no larf. Bend and break the main stems and stake them over. I almost try to grow my plants horizontally. I also remove big fan leaves to allow light to penetrate the canopy more.

Have a perfectly dialed-in environment. My temps never get below 65F and never above 81F. Humidity never rises above 52%.

Ditched watering by hand and starting using Tropf Blumat automatic drippers. I now let the plants dictate when they want to be watered rather than being watered when I 'think' it's the time for them to be watered. Perfect moisture in the medium 100% of the time for their entire cycle.

Expanded my footprint. I used to have a 4x5 space for flower, 20 sqft. and had my lights as close to my plants as I could get them. I raised the lights a little and expanded my footprint to 5x5. If I had the space, I'd probably even go for 6x6.


Maximizing yields has a lot to do with making sure everything you know about growing weed is within the proper parameters. The more you know about growing it, the more you can dial everything in, the more you can grow efficiently. The other limiting factor, imo, would be genetics.

This is my first stone of the morning, I hope this made sense and helps.
 

love?

Member
Do your plants look happy? (not yellowing from nute deficiencies or the like)

If they do, a couple of things you might want to try are more plants, bigger pots, vegging longer and using higher yielding strains.

If they don't look happy try to fix whatever the problem is that's causing it.
 
P

powerrobbie

We need more info on your setup, an ounce off every plant wouldn't be bad at all if you had a whole bunch of them. Many people grow in the SOG (see of green) way which is very high plant numbers but all the plants are very small and their is little to no veg time. If you are only growing one plant then you would have to veg that plant till it was huge to make it produce anything worthwhile.
 
EVERYONE thanks.

I have great ventilation....industrial fan pull fresh air in and through 6" vented hood with a Y manifold to pull out hot air at the top of grow room with fresh air vent also on the floor for entire room.

I start from ready clones and put into 16oz dixie cups then 2-3 weeks I transplant into 1.5 gallon buckets 2-3 more weeks then transplant into either 3.5 gallon or 5 gallon buckets for flower.

I top them as much as I can and also bend the main stem. I also cut most of the large fan leaves.

Veg: The plants are always dark green in veg, using mainly fish emulsion (5-1-1), worm castings, molasses, kelp (sometimes I throw in seabird poop) and every 3 weeks I add lacto baccilli.

Flower: tea: molasses, worm castings, kelp, potash.

soil: BX with humus and composted manure, kelp meal, worm castings, charcoal.

thanks.
 
E

el dub

I'm not sure about the need for two transplants, nor 5 gallon pots at this stage. I'd go from the plastic cups to the 3.5 gallons if you want to shoot for 3 oz/plant to start. 6 plants in your 4x4 could yield maybe 18 oz.

Its pretty easy to get an oz/plant in gallon pots. However, you would prolly be looking at around 18 plants to get the same yield as the scenario above.

Btw, I don't really like using fish emulsion. Its not only nasty to smell inside, but ime, also flavored the flowers a bit. Maybe I didn't have my flush down back then.

Anyway, I use a light, airy mix that dries out fairly quickly and add myco.

Guanos are my ferts of choice. Seabird guano during the transition phase seems to produce good results. I go light on the flowering ferts until the buds are fully formed and then only hit them with a solid dose once or twice before flush.

On second glance, I just reread your flowering tea formula and wonder if you aren't missing a solid source of P in that mix. YOu need far more P than K provided by the potash. And too much of that stuff makes the flowers really difficult to flush properly, ime.

lw
 
I see your problem!

You never cut fan leaves, they are the work horse of the plant. look at them like large solar panels. They do most of the work. Tuck them out of the way but never take them off.

NWbud
 
Are you getting good seeds or cuttings? Genetics is a huge part of it. IMO. I and others I know have grown less than ideal seeds and gotin the same results= low yield
Just something to consider? You can have all the greatest equip and fertilizer and techs, but you must start with a high yielding strain, otherwise you will be wasting alot of your
time. Agian just my opinion.
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
what genetics are you using? seriously you should be getting more like 3-4 oz from a 3.5 or 5 gallon bucket. do your plants look healthy? repotting like you do is also a good idea for more rootmass.
i dont cut fanleaves at all unless they are directly shading a budsite.

remember with ventilation you also need good circulation so the leaves get fresh air round them.

sounds like you are doing many things right (except removing lots of leaves - you should stop that)

pics would be good...

VG
 

highroller614

Active member
yields

yields

I been averaging 5 oz's per plant in 5 gallon buckets.The strain im doing it with is sour 60. I got 2 plants that look like they are going to weigh a lot more. :plant grow::smoke out::smokeit:. I been using home brewed teas, DIYCO2, and aerated water. Im using a 1000 watt HPS and 2 400 watt metal halides. My next trip I'm doing away with the 400's and getting 3 more 1000's HPS. I'm also not doing anymore auto's indoors. Waste of electric IMO. If my hygrometer reads 60% thats when i get rid of it. I lost my digital camera which F'N blows. I wolud get you some bigger pots.
 
OK....you guys are great I appreciate.

Now I think I have found the problem if not one of many...I dont flush.

Is my 400w metal halide to high? Its like 18-24 inches above my Veg canopy.

Strains: Querkle, The black, colorado snow, electric fruit punch, purple wreck, purple erkel,
 
What do you use for nutrients or brew up for your feeding schedule?

How often should I be flushing? I was always told pure organic does'nt need to be flushed.
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
I disagree with el dub and agree with verdantgreen. These plants like to be repotted.
I go from rooted clones to 1 liter air pots to 1 gallon air pots to 3 gal pots. So, IMO, it's not repotting that is the culprit at all. Unless when you do repot, the roots have not yet filled the the pot.

I got strains all the time that are shit and do <1oz while on the same table others do much much more in the same soil mix, same water regimin and same nutes. Those get the boot quickly.

How many times have you changed your strain? I find that if I use a store bought clone, 1 out of 7 are keepers. The rest are shit. That's why they're selling 'em. If they were good genetics, you would never find them at the dispensary.
 
E

el dub

Transplanting can cause shock and temporarily slow plant growth.

I know a few professional growers who say that the best thing you can do for a plant is to never let its roots touch the sides of the pot. And while that's not really possible indoors, I find it works best for me when I get them in their final resting place as soon as possible.

Btw, smart pots are my choice for containers now.

lw
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Transplanting can cause shock and temporarily slow plant growth.

only if you do it badly or at the wrong time.

on the other side of the coin, putting a small plant into a massive pot can cause overwatering issues and an improper wet/dry cycle
 
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