Digital Time Switch, aproprate as 1000W timer?

[ShroomDr]

Is this timer (GE-15132) suitable? Reading the directions, i almost think i could use this as a flip flop, im not sure, and would love some clarification.

GE-15132 QuickStartGuide.pdf

GE-15132 User Manual.pdf

SPECIFICATIONS
Input Voltage: 120 VAC, 208/240 VAC, or 277 VAC in all units based
upon dipswitch configuration.
15087 NEMA 3R Indoor & Outdoor BM-A301US5-O2
15207 NEMA 1 Indoor BM-A301US5-I2
56922 NEMA 1 Indoor BM-A301US5-I2
15132 NEMA 3R Indoor & Outdoor EM-A301US9-O2
Switch Rating: DPDT Models
Normally Open Contacts
40A Resistive, 120-277Vac.
30A General Purpose, 120-277Vac.
20A Resistive, 30Vdc
1 HP, 120Vac ; 2HP, 240Vac ;
20A Ballast, 120-277Vac.
15A Tungsten, 120Vac
5.4A Tungsten, 208-277Vac.
800VA, Pilot Duty, 120Vac.
720VA, Pilot Duty, 240-277Vac.
TV-5, 120Vac
Normally Closed Contacts
30A Resistive, 120-277Vac
15A General Purpose, 120-277Vac
15A Resistive, 30Vdc
20A Ballast, 120-277Vac
1/4HP, 120Vac; 1/2HP, 208-240Vac.
290VA, Pilot, 120Vac.
360VA, Pilot, 208-240Vac.
NOTE: If loads are connected to both NC and NO contacts, both contacts are
decorated to 67% of the above values.

So im wondering, if i can wire it to be either on when the timer is on, or off when the timer is on, is it possible to wire this as a flip flop.

Any help would be appreciated, i'll probably get my electrical buddy to help me wire it.

 

[ShroomDr]

bump

 

[rick shaw]

How much did it cost.

 

[Avenger]

No

 

[MrDuck]

Given that it's rated for 20A worth of ballast I would say there's no problem using it as a basic timer. If it were me I would wire it up as 240V and add a neutral to your outlets south of the timer. You will effectively get twice as much timed power this way (40A @ 120 vs 20A @ 120V).

Can't help with the flip flop question, at the least you would want to underrate it a bit. Best of luck.

 

[CaptainChronizl]

no flip, just timed electricity. you could hook it up to time the power to a relay used to flip.

 

[ShroomDr]

The timer was at h0m3d3p0t $60

So i cut a short 14g extension cord in half. The piece with the male end substituted for the '120V from breaker' and the female side to '120V to water heater'.

I tested it on my 20W digital alarm clock, it worked and i didnt burn the house down. I only had it plugged in for < 10 minutes. Before i try running my 1000W though this, can someone confirm its done right? (and im accomplishing something better than running it though a cheapo intermatic spinner).

+10,000 for helping

 

[ShroomDr]

Here are images of the 'quick start guide' included in the box. This is how i wired it.


The 'male' end of the cord are the first two connections, and the 'female' cord are the last two connections. (Dont forget to connect the grounds).









¿Correcto?





-

 

[mdk ktm]

Im using 2 of the exact same ones right now. And you can control 2 rooms off of 1 timer, but you cant power 4 lights off of 2 ballasts. It can be double throw so you can control 2 sets of outlets. I like using a timer for each room though. If you have enough ballasts, you could make an internal flip flop, where you flip the lights on/off every 2 hours.

I have them wired for 240

 

[Fear]

Why flip flop 2k? Space, power?. 4000 watts at 240 is only 16.6 amps. HOw much do those timers cost? The one pictured could be installed inside a car wash. Hope you don't pay the extra for that nema 3 rating.

 

[ShroomDr]

The timer was $60. the 9ft 14g extension cord i used was $10.

So... nema 3 = water resistant? The timer is marketed for hot water heaters.

I flip that circuit anyway, its always has got either a 1000w going or (2) 600w. All my equipment is 120v.


Safety first.... and dont forget to bring a towel.

 

[Fear]

I like 2 600's over 1 1k. You can bring the 6's a lil closer in say a tight space. 1000watters aren't as forgiving.

 

[ShroomDr]

Got both! Ive just been running the lighting systems though the cheapo-spinner-intermatic timers. They are installing the smart meters around here, and i wanted to keep the down time as short as possible. Safety is nice too.

Here is one of my 4x4 homeboxes. (4) 2x2 tables. (I used 2x4's to span the cinderblocks.)