What's new

fungus gnats! am i doomed?

JFC people NEMATODES! One application is all it takes, no chemicals needed.

A $10 sponge of them treats 3000 square feet.

I just can't understand why people struggle with these gnats at all. You guys got the answer in the 3rd fucking post.[/QUOTE


i saw those for $12 bucks but it seemed like id have to buy a shit load of them for potted plants. i think it only inoculated 1 gallon of water. youd need at least a qt per 3 gallon pot right? so 4 pots per 12 dollar batch? maybe i just didnt understand how to use em.... help me out if you know. these fuckers are coming back!
 
O

OrganicOzarks

I just ordered some too. I have not fully gotten rid of them. I knocked them down to nothing, and then boom they came back. So I am going to continue to do what I am doing until I get the nematodes, and then try them. With all of the shit i have done i have just controlled them. I am still trying to get rid of them. Come on nematodes.
 

Harinama

Member
Tried these things:

* strips-work ok to catch fliers, but the problem is in the soil, not the air(larvae)
* need oil-only works to keep them off surface, very little effect
* bt dunks-worked somewhat, but not great for drip systems.
* azamax-kicked their butt, finally!

So Azamax does it for me, site indicates it is "natural" and made with "food grade formulation ingredients"..not organic, but very effective.
 

Muleskinner

Active member
Veteran
>>>>> NEMATODES! One application is all it takes, no chemicals needed.

A $10 sponge of them treats 3000 square feet.

I just can't understand why people struggle with these gnats at all. You guys got the answer in the 3rd fucking post.<<<<<<

Amen!! SO easy to get rid of fungus gnats, beneficial nematodes or any form of BTi will kick their ass quickly.

Just go to hardware store & get mosquito dunks & crumble them in your water, game over.

btw, DON'T blame overwatering. Fungus gnats will be present in the vast majority of organic mixes, overwatering or not.
 
T

The Strain Man

mosquito dunks did not work for me I would use the nematodes or bottom feed just make sure they dont sit in the water too long:beat-dead:
 
bottom feed? i sware i see these fuckers coming out of the drain holes in the bottom of my pots! i got me some nemes yesterday. topdressing with it tonight. hope it does the trick!

the Azomax, or whatever it is, from general hydro, i read about it, and it actually kills nemetodes! its a nemicide! so no , dont use them at the same time, and , if nematodes kill sucky larva then dont use that azo shit at all! at least thats my conclusion. we need nemes in our soil. its part of the soil food web.,
 
S

schwagg

you'll see them bailing out everywhere once those nematodes get in there!!
 

Phedrosbenny

Trying to have a good day
Veteran
They breed in damp soil.If you are running Organics they pop up sometimes if you are trying to maintain a microbe population.Crumble up a musqitoe dunk in the top of your soil if you need to get rid of them.I have read that they attack clones root systems.I have had them.Never any problems with them though.To be honest they really dont bother anything.Unless it gets to be too many of them...I leave them alone.They sometimes die off in a dry cycle.
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
While it's true that Azadirachtin and the other limonoids found in neem tree seeds (the substances responsible for neem's insecticidal properties) can be effective against many insects (though certainly not all), it's primary use in horticulture and medicine is its anti-fungul properties.

Meaning that applying Azamax or Azatrol (said to be 'pure Azadirachtin' *cough*cough*) will severely damage the fungi colonies which would seem to be counter-productive from my perspective any way.

By adding neem seed meals/cake to your potting soil when you mix it will provide all of the 130 active ingredients in this product - not simply an isolated agent. Adding some crab and shrimp meal will also give you some insecticide defense in the form of chitin.

You can also take neem seed meal/cake and make a tea and apply as a soil drench.

HTH

CC
 
I

Indian Culture

A good preventitive is a couple inches of sand on top of your soil, that way they can't get into your soil in the first place to lay their eggs and eat your roots.
 

guest2012y

Living with the soil
Veteran
Lactobacillus eats dead cells and some living cells from molds...as far as I know,and I've only scratched the surface of that trip. Lactobacillus is everywhere,in your guts,the air,the dirt...everywhere...........on my keyboard too probably.
EDIT:So I guess the question I have is...Why would it eat insects?
 

excalibud7

Active member
picture.php

paint strainer bag or any mesh type fabric will work..they have no place to lane in the soil...trust me it works and like others said peroxide is good and when you see your soil bubble you be like yeah what now you bastards..lol
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
good thread. i've had some flyers, not too bad. i was letting the soil dry out but it's just getting worse. now a few of my plants look really sad. losing yellow leaves on the bottom. i think i'm gonna try to find some nematodes and if not, drench with h2o2 and cover the pots with a screen.
 

Cannasseur

Member
I'm kind of skeptical of the hydrogen peroxide claim. I tried to search for reputable sources on H202 efficacy on fungus gnats, most of them came up cannabis related. I would guess any benefits that come from H202 applications is from nuking fungi populations rather than directly affecting the insect at hand.

As others have said, BTi or entomopathogenic nematodes sound like the way to go. Mosquito Dunks will be somewhat effective, but other horticultural sources (like Gnatrol) will be superior due to the higher concentrations of the active ingredient.
 
O

OrganicOzarks

Nematodes did it for me finally. I tried, Azatrol, mosquito dunks, perlite on top of the soil, neem oil, Don't bug me spray, and some other things i am sure I am forgetting. However, the nematodes kick ass. I have ordered 5 total batches of them so far. After taking care of the plants in veg i decided to just hit everyone up. I am also keeping some in reserve in the fridge just in case. I love those little fuckers.
 

Cannasseur

Member
Remember to always research your source and product when purchasing biological controls. Some of these microorganisms live in very specific environments. You wouldn't want to spend all that money, only to have them perish during shipping.

The entomopathogenic fungi Beauveria bassiana also is effective against fungus gnats and a wide variety of pests.

# Description of the Biological Pesticide

Generic Name(s) of the Active Ingredient: Beauveria bassiana strain ATCC 74040
OPP Chemical Code: 128818
Year of Initial Registration: 1995 (conditional)
Pesticide Type: Microbial Insecticide
U.S. and Foreign Producers:

Troy BioSciences Inc.
113 S. 47th Avenue
Phoenix, AZ 85043

# Use Sites, Application Timing & Target Pests

* Target Pests: Ants, Aphids, Armyworms, Bermuda Grass Mites, Billbugs, Budworm and Bollworm, Cutworms, Chinch Bugs, Citrus blackfly, Colorado Potato Beetle, Corn Borers, Leafhoppers, Beetles- Flea Cucumber, Elm Leaf, Fungus Gnats, Grasshoppers, Japanese Beetles, Elm Leaf Leafhoppers, Leaf-feeding caterpillars, Leafrollers, Loopers, Lygus bug, Mealybugs, Millipedes, Mole Crickets, Tetranychid Mites, Pear Psylla, Root Weevils, Psyllids, Sowbugs, Spittlebugs, Sod Webworms, Shore flies, Tarnished Plant Bug, Thrips, Tomato Fruitworm, Weevils and Whiteflies, Eggs of Lepidopteran Pests, Larvae of the following pests: White bugs, Annual White Grub, Black Turfgrass Ataenius, European Chafer, Green June Beetle, Japanese Beetle, Northern Masked Chafer, European Cranefly Larvae.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top