Pics of leaves. How do I correct this?

[Nationwide]

Hello:

Im pretty sure its a cal or mag problem. I had posted pics before and that was the conclusion so I did a folier feed with 1/4 teaspoon epsom salts, also switched from ro water back to tap water and watered once since then with 1/2 teaspoon per gallon botanicare calmag plus.

I have checked my ph and the ph runnoff is at 6.1 - 6.3 area. I am growing in ffof and sunshine #4. I also added dolomite lime but not to much of this I dont think.

When I watered with ro water I had not used calmag. I did 2 waterings with the ro before the symptoms showed up and have watered only once with tap plus calmag. The last watering was 3 or 4 days ago and the soil is still on the moist side. I may have watered one time to early when I wanted to get the calmag back in the soil.

I am useing floranova bloom nutes but had only done 2 feedings with the last one at 600ppm and was gonna bump it up next feeding and switch the lights. I also had done most of my plant stakeing and training about the same time that the issues started but thats just coincidence I think.

How do I go about fixing this problem? What I was gonna do is wait till the soil is good and dry then just water hard with tap water and floranova at 600 ppm...mabey add calmag to the tap water at 5 teaspoons for 10 gallons of water. Also was gonna ph the water to 6.7 this time.

Someone help me so I can get the plants into flower soon. Should I flower them anyway while treating?

Heres the pics

Thanks peeps for your time!!!

 

[vannuysorganic]

Kinda looks like late stage mite damage maybe...

 

[TokeD]

looking like a potassium def

Potassium (K) -
[/B]
Deficiency: Potassium-starved plants initially appear healthy. Deficient plants are susceptible to disease. Symptoms include the following: older leaves (first tips and margins, followed by whole leaves) develop spots, turn dark yellow, and die. Stems often become weak and sometimes brittle. Potassium is usually present in the soil, but it is locked by high salinity. First, leach the toxic salt out of the soil and then apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. Potassium deficiency causes the internal temperature of the foliage to climb and the protein cells to burn or degrade. Evaporation is normally highest on leaf edges, and that's where the burning takes place.

The progression of the deficiency symptoms at a glance:
Plants appear healthy with dark green foliage.
The leaves lose their luster
Branching may increase, but the branches are weak and scrawny
Leaf margins turn grey and progress to a rusty brown color, and then curl up and dry
Yellowing of the older leaves is accompanied by rust-colored blotches
The leaves curl up, rot sets in, and the older leaves drop
The flowering is retarded and greatly diminished

Treat deficiency of potassium by fertilizing with a complete N-P-K fertilizer. Occasionally, a grower will add potassium directly to the nutrient solution. Organic growers add potassium in the form of soluble potash (wood ashes) mixed with water. Be careful when using wood ash, the pH is normally above 10. Use a pH-lowering mix to bring the pH to around 6.5 before application. Foliar feeding to cure a potassium deficiency is not recommended.

 

[Nationwide]

hehe...no these were healthy plants no mites. Its a calcium or magnesium problem....I just cant seem to get it fixed...I need help with where to go from here.

If its potasium then watering/leeching with ph adjusted water with added blackstrapp molassas may be the ticket? The plants are still growing...and there are other plants that were started the same time but different strain that are just fine or tiny bit of same problem. I was hopeing that it will fix itself since I switched back to tap water.

 

[BrainSellz]

Bro on alot of your leaves you see how they are kinda shiny, heavy, burnt and clawing looking, this happens when they are full of nutes. This makes me think you should back off the nutes,imo. I could be wrong though

 

[Nationwide]

If that were a spidermite problem then it would have had to be a severe one. My last grow had them little fuckers...chewwin little bastards...I got em gone...knock on wood..

 

[Nationwide]

Bro on alot of your leaves you see how they are kinda shiny, heavy, burnt and clawing looking, this happens when they are full of nutes. This makes me think you should back off on the nutes, but i dunno.

I do agree with this....they dont need nutes...but molassas for the minerals? I do know they are not nute burned...the leaves on alot of the problem leaves have green tips and edges..

 

[BrainSellz]

...but molassas for the minerals? I do know they are not nute burned...the leaves on alot of the problem leaves have green tips and edges..

Damn my man I dunno what you'd use for the minerals, (not experienced on the substrate) im sure someone will swing through with your answer though. Right on and easy does it!

 

[TokeD]

You need to flush with adjust ph water, for sunshine mix #4 i water with 6.5 ph and have NO ISSUES whatsoever, i'm watering every 2 days or so with this mix. I'm using gh floramicro and florabloom at a 6ml micro/9ml bloom ration per gallon with 5ml of cal-mag per gallon as well. with my nute ratio i NEVER see any deficiencies whatsoever. You can really see deficiencies with over saturating your soil, seems like if your soil is still moist after 3 days you shouldnt be using as much water, with this medium you want to have your soil be able to dry out in at least 3 days.

You seem to be having some type of ph lockout with the nutrient uptake, i highly suggest you flush with plain water, and check the run off of the ph. I bet you see some extreme difference in your soil ph at the runoff, ill bet a nickel its to acidic. once the flush is complete and soil has dried out, remove any damaged foliage and go back to your normal feeding schedule and be sure to use the micro and bloom & cal-mag once you've flushed.

here is something that will help identify some of the lockouts caused by instable PH.

 

[Nationwide]

I agree that a little later in the plants life they will use water faster. I did add perlite to this and its the same soil mix as my last grow except I used some ot roots organic root powder stuff while the soil was in storage in the 55 gallon drum. When I start flowering my plants they will need water every 3 days but now while they are still smallish (3 feet) they seem to use less. Also I am useing floranova lineup...which has only grow and bloom with no micro. Its the lucas formula in a bottle and was killer on my last grow.

I am gonna do exactly like you said....wait till the soil is dry like I usually do then water good till the treys have an inch of water in them...ph adjusted to 6.5.

Thanks bro

 

[rashboy99]

more nutes

 

[Nationwide]

So if its to acidic and I need to raise it can I use Epsoma garden lime? Can I just sprinkle it around the plant or what? From what I have been reading just watering with water that is higher ph will not be a fix?

I have some of this epsoma organic traditions all natural neutralizer garden lime.
Thanks

 

[bobman]

i agree with toked. The only time i saw problems in soil was when the roots could not handle a muddy soil. if those roots stay wet for long periods of time its going throw your ph off even in good soil. most good soils are ph adjusted and should remain stable unless its over wet. to be honest with you I would just take the plant out of the container and mix a fresh batch of soil knock off the dirt that is not connected to the roots and repot. then just water lightly. but its hard from the pictures to tell how bad the problem is and if it is advancing. how long have they been in this container? How much have the roots grown into the container? most of the time this is caused by roots being to small compared to the container and not being able to absord a good watering before the ph gets out of whack. One thing for sure i would rather cut to the chase and just repot with some fresh soil than fuck around with adjusting ph and food and cal/mag.

 

[Nationwide]

These plants looked great before I switched to ro water. They have been in these pots for almost a month. The soil should be ok. Its ofxfarms ocean forest and roots organic and sunshine mix #4 all in equel parts. Here is a pic of them before the problem started. In the same pots with same soil..

Nationwide

I just added the epsoma garden lime to the top of the soil and watered in. 2 tbl spoons per pot....

 

[bobman]

those look great man. not every leaf is going to look perfect. i am not a big fan of ro as well. i would not go tweaking too much in the quest for perfection. Certain leaves are going to take hits no matter what this is an unnatural environment for the plant. anyways you are on your way.

 

[ciboha]

Do you let your soil dry completely before waterings? Since I've had similar problem which was appearing on bottom leaves and my roots were in really bad condition after I checked them. So I transplanted and was more careful with waterings and they were doing just fine.

 

[Nationwide]

That is before the problem started....I have lockout due to low ph....I need to raise my ph from 6 to 6.3 at least to correct it. I did add some garden lime and watered it in...lets see how they look in a few days.

Look at the pics in the top of the thread...this has to be fixed before I flower them...no?

 

[Nationwide]

Yep...I let the soil get really dry...almost pulling from the sides of the pot. They like it dry...makes the roots search for water and makes a huge root ball so they can suck up plenty of nutes in week 4...5...and 6 of flower..grin..

 

[bobman]

so your saying they look a lot worse now? What are they in 3 gallon pots? How tall are they?

 

[Nationwide]

They are about 3 feet. They are in those same pots which are 4.5 gallon. Actually the pots say 5 on the bottom and the guy at the hydro shop said they were 5 but they look like 4 to me. Yes they look worse.

Since I wrote earlier I have watered in some fast acting garden lime and the runnoff is now 6.5 - 6.8. I have ordered a replacement ph proba as mine cracked so drops is as accurate as I can be