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uk clone only! (and british bred strains)

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theherbalizor

Well-known member
Veteran
I really hope to be able to make any mass get together. Finding the people to look after dogs / plants is a nightmare.

Gotta try that KC at some point. Sounds lovely.

Yo - hope you dont mind me throwing some more snoe shots up. I would start a thread but I simply havent the time atm.

So new d90 with lenses, and new lighting suite.

Snoe day 42

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BIGGS

**********
Veteran
I've used allsorts Dr. D ,i've even used the coco and latex bonded blocks in a continually running drip system ,that was fun LOL. I used to use B'cuzz slabs and break them up but that is still very absorbant compared to this galuku coco i rekon , it has alot more of the outer husk or whatever it's called, and that does'nt seem to get as "wet" as that finer stuff.

have you looked at the botanicoir range. i read that the galuku stuff isn't very good. i prefer profit disc's as i really like the rough grade they come in. check out this link, you might find something worth using:

http://www.botanicoir.com/p5-45kg-cocochips-bale.php
 

cannaboy

Member
My soil is balanced fine rick!!! No tip burn no lockout and a leather texture to them. They don't look the best because I killed all the leaves,, pest too hopefully I had a few niggles on a few bottom bits so they got done anyway..

I hate bugs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Kc if you can get a 6 month cure on it will put to sleep any1 who thought it was bland without the cure it's by far the best clone I have E-man but I like others more to work with.. the reek on the KC is unreal coffee shop a+ keeper pheno for propper old boys who don't like toy plants and are not into sativa,,,
 

cannaboy

Member
My feed is? ltrs tapwater o.6 ec 8.3/4 ph bubble for 24hrs ,,,,,its just like hydro,, soil ph is 6.6 to start I like 6.3/2 5.8 0n coco

But if I blend 50/50 soil coco I test it.. this lets you flush a plant and have less nitrogen available,, good for the plant.. helps it yellow and die"!!

20mlIguana
7g's Pirana
5ml Riz
50ml Sensizym
25ml organic bee
25ml fulvic
25mlHumic
20ml carboload
0ml big bud
0 ml pk9/18
0 g's bud blood
3 drops of super vit!!

At the mo

I may try kushie kush and x factor and sweet bud, this run,, they should make "Hurry the Fuck"!!
 
B

Buffoonman

I have found over the last 12 months that the tap water seems to be deterioating never used to have to touch it but now have to leave it out overnight then readjust the ph otherwise it starts getting too alkaline causing some nutrient lockout. Unless its a localised area problem.
 

Dr. D

Active member
Veteran
I have found over the last 12 months that the tap water seems to be deterioating never used to have to touch it but now have to leave it out overnight then readjust the ph otherwise it starts getting too alkaline causing some nutrient lockout. Unless its a localised area problem.
Our tapwater is pretty good here but i always let my water sit for 24hrs regardless of how good it is, the plants like it better when its been sat...Peace
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
watch out for chloramine - it is used now by some UK water companies - letting the water sit for a day or two will let the chlorine excape but not the chloramine (which i think you need to add ascorbic acid to neutralise). you can call them to find out about what they use.

also you should know that most UK water companies add lime to the water if necessary because a pH of around 8.5 is regarded as the optimum pH for drinking water. this is a bit high for cannabis. i use citric acid (cheep from ebay - its used in jammaking, soapmaking etc) mix a tablespoon of the powder into a pint of water and use this solution as your pH down. i bring mine down to about 6. the great thing about citric acid is that it keeps P ion available to the plant and has quite a few beneficial effects on nutrient availability and uptake by the plant - in fact plant roots exude citric acid all by themselves.

---

i grew the KC (S1's)in my organic soil and i found it to be very smooth and silky to smoke. not a strong taste - although i can see where people might think chocolate - its more of a 'texture' - very pleasant. the smell, well i laughed when people said it smelt of 'church hall' but again i can understand that now. kind of a musty smell with metallic overtones.

VG
 

funkymonkey

Member
My feed is? ltrs tapwater o.6 ec 8.3/4 ph bubble for 24hrs ,,,,,its just like hydro,, soil ph is 6.6 to start I like 6.3/2 5.8 0n coco

But if I blend 50/50 soil coco I test it.. this lets you flush a plant and have less nitrogen available,, good for the plant.. helps it yellow and die"!!

20mlIguana
7g's Pirana
5ml Riz
50ml Sensizym
25ml organic bee
25ml fulvic
5mlHumic
20ml carboload
0ml big bud
0 ml pk9/18
0 g's bud blood
3 drops of super vit!!

At the mo

I may try kushie kush and x factor and sweet bud, this run,, they should make "Hurry the Fuck"!!

What a waste of money. Carboload is shit, total ripoff, it's nothing more than dextrose powder disolved in RO water. Molasses is a twentieth the price and many times more effective. AN's humic and fulvic are the most watered down on the market, there are loads of better options for humic/fulvic, I buy a pound of 70% fulvic for 12 dollars and a lb of 80% humic for the same, that's more fulvic and humic than you would get in 100 litres of AN's F1 and H1. Organic B is a waste of time, you are using Hesi's Supervit so you don't need the Organic B at all, the Supervit is many times more concentrated and has the same stuff. Good old Superthrive is the best option for vitamins, Supervit is good but Superthrive is the cheapest and works fantastic. Iguana Juice is a terrible nutrient, very unbalanced and has very poor uptake, the original Iguana formula was better but still not very good. Sensizym doesn't do anything at all, this is well proven, it has NO live enzymes in it, it's a pointless product. You can buy enzyme products sold for other uses such as Hagesan Kitchen sink and drain unblocker for a fraction the price and they are 25x stronger, a 750ml bottle of the Hageson is under 6 quid and lasts a couple of years as it;s super concentrated. Try putting a slice of apple in Sensizym and a slice in Hagesan enzymes and see how long it takes to break down. You'll see the sensizym doesn't break down the apple whereas the Hagesan will completely dissolve it overnight. Piranha is the poorest beneficial funghi product on the market, it has urea prills in it to bulk it out, utter crap. Roots, a Uk brand is fantastic and a quarter the price, it is what pro horticulturalists use and has RHS accreditation. Big Bud used to be good but they changed it so it has no aminos in it anymore so now it;s another pointless piece of crap. The liquid Big Bud has always been watered down garbage, the powder was good but since they changed it, garbage. Metrop do a superb amino booster or you can buy powdered aminos for about 15 dollars for a pound. Kelp extract is full of aminos too.

AN products are the worst available and they get worse and worse with every reformulation, they just changed Hammerhead from 0-9-18 to 0-4-8 while at the same time hiking the price, they just rip people off shamelessly.

My coco regime:

Amino powder
Humic/Fulvic powder
Kelp extract powder
Horse feed molasses
Liquid silicon (currently using Dutchmaster as I got it for 4 quid a litre)
Ionic Coco Grow/Bloom (I got 5 litres of each for 12 quid in a clearance sale, it's good stuff, plants love it, but any good base nute will do, Hesi, Canna House&Garden, they are all good)
Superthrive

The Molasses is 6.49 for a 5 litre bottle from the local farmer's store, a bottle lasts me a couple of years and I use it in heavy quantities. The humic/fulvic and aminos are very important and are found in most expensive boosters like Canna Boost, Bcuzz Bloom Booster, ATA-XL and Head Masta, I use them because they are the exact same ingredients just I save a fortune because I get them in raw dry form instead of paying through the arse for a fancy bottle. Liquid Silicon is essential in coco, I get rock hard stems and high resistance to moulds and mildews. Potassium Silicate is not easy to find in powdered form and I have enough DM liquid silica to last me another year. Superthrive I only use a couple of drops for the first 4 weeks of flower and it works brilliantly. Kelp extract is another essential, it is roughly 1-1-5 in NPK and has 72 trace elements plus a ton of other goodies, it is found in a ton of expensive bottles, I pay 14 quid for half a kilo of powder, I'm still using the same kilo I bought 4 years ago and I use it every watering in veg and bloom in heavy doses, I think I have about 350g left.

When I start boosting PK I add:

Lecithin granules
Mono potassium phosphate
Sulphate of Potash (potassium sulphate)
Malt Extract
Palm Sugar

The Lecithin is extracted from soy beans and is full of phospholipids, a highly available organic form of phosphorous, adds bulk and density and is found in Canna Boost, Dutchmaster add.27, Biobizz TopMax and a few other expensive bloom boosters.

The mono Pk and Sulphate of potash are the two ingredients in 0-9-18 PK boosters such as AN Hammerhead and Canadian Xpress Superior Potash, I just make up my own stock solution by adding roughly 150g of mono Pk and 50g of sulphate of potash to a litre of de-ionised water which I get from Tescos for 2.29 for 2.5 litres. This makes it an almost exact copy of the original Hammerhead for about one twentieth the price. A 25 kilo sack of mono Pk is 36 quid and will last anyone a lifetime. Sulphate of Potash is 22 quid for a 25 kilo sack.

The Malt Extract and Palm Sugar I only use for the last week of feeding and first week of flush, they enhance flavours and resin, they cost mere pennies, I pay 89p for a 350g jar of malt extract, the palm sugar is about 1.49 for 500g, comes in round cakes or flat bars, I just break off a piece and dissolve it in hot water. A blend of 50% molasses, 25% malt extract and 25% palm sugar outperforms all the fancy carb booster products for a tony fraction of the cost.

Nutrient companies deliberately avoid giving the customers accurate info about the ingredients in all those expensive fancy bottles and as so few ganja growers have ANY horticultural education they get away with it. People spend hundreds of pounds on a grow's worth of nutrients when all those bottles just contain a couple of quid's worth of simple agricultural salts plus some basic additives like molasses, kelp, aminos and humic/fulvic. I can do a whole grow for a couple of quid and there is zero difference in quality of yield as I am feeding the exact same ingredients just my sources are vastly cheaper. I can make a litre of 0-9-18 for under a quid, whereas a litre bottle of 0-9-18 is about 16 quid these days.

If anyone wants to know where I get any of my ingredients, PM me and I'll give ya all the info. I use a teaspoon, an EC meter, a PH meter, a measuring jug, a 2 litre mixing jug, a 10 litre bucket and a plastic spoon for stirring and that's it, it's incredibly simple and anyone can do it, the only reason more people aren't is the nute companies and their fraudulent marketing practices have conditioned ganja growers into believing they need to use extremely overpriced bottles of crap to grow top notch product. I know a lot of pro growers of other crops and they laugh hard at the adverts for cannabis specific nutrients. If i see someone who I know is a great grower such as Herbalizor getting good results with a new product i do my research to find out what's in that product and always find out I can copy it for pennies. I've even started making my own rooting/cloning gel that is many times more effective than Clonex, I mix gelatine powder from the supermarket baking section in hot water then add indole butyric acid, indole acetic acid, napthaleic acid, gibberelic acid and another thing I forget the exact name of now and have the best rooting gel you could hope for, all the ingredients are available from supergrow.biz really cheaply, I made 2 litres for about a tenner.
 

lovelightpower

Active member
Veteran
watch out for chloramine - it is used now by some UK water companies - letting the water sit for a day or two will let the chlorine excape but not the chloramine (which i think you need to add ascorbic acid to neutralise). you can call them to find out about what they use.

also you should know that most UK water companies add lime to the water if necessary because a pH of around 8.5 is regarded as the optimum pH for drinking water. this is a bit high for cannabis. i use citric acid (cheep from ebay - its used in jammaking, soapmaking etc) mix a tablespoon of the powder into a pint of water and use this solution as your pH down. i bring mine down to about 6. the great thing about citric acid is that it keeps P ion available to the plant and has quite a few beneficial effects on nutrient availability and uptake by the plant - in fact plant roots exude citric acid all by themselves.

excellent advice mate. a 3 stage R.O. unit with a cloramide filter is great for getting all crap out of the water. i let mine sit with a big fat elestial quartz crystal in it, with love written on the bin i collect it in (i know i'm a hippy, but check out the Masaru Emoto pictures.... water has a memory and stores information).

also i use citric acid to acidify, i buy this from a supermarket that sell beer brewing equipment, bout £1 a pot. i've heard citric acid is beneficial to friendly nitrogen producing bacteria.
to make my solution more alkaline i just use bicarbonate of soda, i've been told this is a good chelator.

sorry bout your blueberry mate, the last grow i did was unlabelled. the plants i thought were your blueberry were actually lemon venom. i never could find which ones were blueberry, maybe there wasn't any there at all. it was just a random buch of cuts that i had left over.

i find i can keep my mothers and cuts labelled fine, but as soon as it comes to flowering i keep forgetting to label. its only since i've been doing bigger plant set ups really. think i'm gonna set up a hobby tent just for test runs...

just for the record though 2 that i can identify this run are doing nicely; thats the cheese x white rhino (or maybe another father, only londinium is more clued up than the rest of us) and the old school black domina cut, both need to be cut down, dried and smoke tested. i'll probably chop on monday/tuesday.

slightly gutted about this crop though, when i went on holiday the guy looking after everything had a bright idea.... we were using earth juice sugar peak catalyst and bloom. the catalyst ran out so he thought he could substitute it with bio-bizz grow, which we had some of lying about. so usually i pride myself on my flush, i like to do 3 weeks at least. 1-2 weeks of 1tsp mollasses a gallon, then 1-2 weeks plain water. i dont know if this minimises yield but the taste is amazing and really clean. but this time its not gonna be my usual flush. oh well least there's some new flavours to try....
 

cannaboy

Member
Your plants always look like there crying for antother grower to take care of them so idifferent are you some grandmaster master grower hiding the good stuff cos your plants look shit,, my nutrients are the least of your worries lol,,

but thanks for the diss..
 

funkymonkey

Member
Your plants always look like there crying for antother grower to take care of them so idifferent are you some grandmaster master grower hiding the good stuff cos your plants look shit,, my nutrients are the least of your worries lol,,

but thanks for the diss..

I wasn't trying to diss you, just educate you, but I forgot what an arrogant child you are and can't be told anything. Carry on wasting your money on overpriced extremely dilute products, I don't have the money to waste so I need to make the money I can afford to spend go as far as possible. What you just aren't grasping is I'm giving my plants the SAME SHIT as all the other coco growers like ojd, truecannabliss, Dr.D, Herbalizor etc, the only difference is the source of that shit.

My plants are very happy and they never see any overpriced overhyped bollocks out of a bottle. I have achieved over 0.9gpw many times without the use of ANY cannabis specific nutrients and that is with a full 3 week flush. It's not the price of your nutrient products that makes good end product, it's the skill, patience, observation, experience and willingness to learn that make a good grower and all the expensive bottles in the world will never change that equation.

If you weren't so full of yourself you might actually learn something, I've been growing weed since you were in nappies and experience counts for a lot. When I started there were no fancy bottled products to waste our money on so I learnt the princples of plant nutrition starting from the basics through many years of hard work, if I can share some knowledge and experience with others in order to save them from the mercilessly rip-off nutrient companies then I have done a good thing. You might not see what I'm trying to do as a good thing but I assure you, my only goal is to educate and save people from emptying their wallets needlessly.

Here's a Deep Chunk hybrid at 12 days of 12/12, couldn't be any happier or healthier. You can see some brown spotting on a leaf in the first pic, that is a leaf on an ECSD cutting and the brown spots are the result of spraying with SBPI to control mites, I found out the hard way that the dilution rate stated on the SBPI bottle is way too high and will burn foliage. The DC hybrid however has zero issues and I just picked one plant out of a dozen, they are all glowing with health.
 

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cannaboy

Member
I do notice a scum that comes out the water and collects on the lid ans sides if I bubble it for a week with a pump circulating, the E.c and Ph go crazy,, This is why I like teas,, you can just keep the same thing I feel its easy,, but the smell isn't I've done a few shit and piss grows recently and am using the discontinued stock before the dates go off, I used to mix a few hundred ltr and use it over 2 days till it went but the mix used to change!!!!! Mix and use is best,,I think on store bought bottles but a 80ltr tea is ample for me,, and 100 times more potent,, the last time I used my tea it took weeks to get it to finish up but store bought get it done quick!!! And on the critical mass I don't care!!!
It will get everything!!! If you get plants healthy and big enough they will take a 3.2 ec without a problem but its expencive,,, once they been fed look 4 /8 hrs later at tips and if you can hit them harder do!! but flushing is essential,,,,


those ones look sweet wheres the canes and the rust gone???
 
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Dr. D

Active member
Veteran
All i use is this;
Canna Coco A+B
Bio-Bizz Top Max
Rhizotonic in Veg only
silicone
Thats it..although i just bought some House and Garden Top Booster to try out and some Plagron Enzymes...Peace
 
C

cheesey

All i use is this;
Canna Coco A+B
Bio-Bizz Top Max
Rhizotonic in Veg only
silicone
Thats it..although i just bought some House and Garden Top Booster to try out and some Plagron Enzymes...Peace

yep no need for over priced crap whats on the market today

i just use

canna A/B
Canadian Xpress regen a root
Canadian Xpress headmasta
Canadian Xpress Superior Potash( 1st time )
 

funkymonkey

Member
It will get everything!!! If you get plants healthy and big enough they will take a 3.2 ec without a problem but its expencive,,, once they been fed look 4 /8 hrs later at tips and if you can hit them harder do!! but flushing is essential,,,,

those ones look sweet wheres the canes and the rust gone???

It doesn't need to be expensive, if you tell me the exact ingredients you put in your teas I'll almost certainly be able to give you alternatives that are exactly the same and cost a lot less, the cannabis growers are a mere drop in the ocean compared to the horticultural world as a whole and we are the only ones using the expensive shit so everything we use is commonly available, you just need to know what you're looking at when you go shopping for ingredients, the cannabis nutrient companies do everything they can to confuse us and bamboozle us with pseudo-science so it's little wonder few of us have much insight to cut through that BS. For the last 5 years I've been living in the back of beyond and the nearest hydro store is 90 miles away, but within 15 miles of my house there are almost a dozen horticultural suppliers so I have learnt what is available in the horti world and what it is the equivalent of in the canna world. I just want to help people, and in these harsh financial times I would have thought it was a good thing for all of us to be able to save money without losing performance.

I don't understand what you mean by canes and rust, if you care to clarify your point I am happy to try to answer it. I run a lot of stuff from seed and I like to stress the hell out of things I haven't run before in a variety of ways on the first couple of runs, I am merciless about selection, if a plant is going to hermie, I want to know that on the first or second run so I treat my bitches as mean as they will take. At the same time as I'm putting some through a battery of stress tests I am also running cuttings that I have already fully tested and proven and worked out how to grow properly, those are where I get my smoke, the stressed ones are usually turned into hash.

Dr D, it was talking to you and true at the cup a few years back that I learnt the benefits of the 3 week flush as opposed to 2 weeks, I try to talk to the best growers and find out what they are doing and then see if I can adjust my own techniques to incorporate this knowledge.

If you had a list of the precise ingredients that are in the bottles in your simple regime then it wouldn't differ much at all from the ingredients in my regime, the difference is in the source of our ingredients. Due to location and other issues it is easier and more cost effective for me to avoid using bottled products, but other people who live in places with hydro stores and have disposable income find it easier to buy bottled stuff. Obviously you aren't wasting much money as your regime works well and isn't anything like as costly as some alternative nutrient regimes. I would highly recommend ATA-XL and Molasses instead of the Top Max, the ATA-XL is full of aminos, vitamins, trace elements and other goodies and the Molasses is loaded with cards, sugars, aminos, trace elements, vitamins and potash (NPK of roughly 1-0-5). Top Max is mostly molasses which is why it smells so sweet.

I'd say Dr.D is a prime example of a good grower can grow great product regardless of the products he choses to use, that is the crux of the matter. I'm not trying to knock anyone's techniques or abilities, merely trying to help people to learn what is in the products they use, to realise there are cheaper alternatives and allow them to decide for themselves if different products they use or are thinking of trying are worth the money they cost or not.

If anyone wants to see it, I'll post the recipe for Canna Coco A+B so you can see exactly how many grams of just five different common horticultural salts are in it, I have software that will produce a recipe for any nutrient formulation. Canna, very helpfully give all the info you need to enter into the software on the back of their bottles. They also add humic, fulvic and kelp, but apart from those, there are only five salts in a set of A+B and you can buy them all in most garden centres for a couple of quid a kilo.
 

funkymonkey

Member
yep no need for over priced crap whats on the market today

i just use

canna A/B
Canadian Xpress regen a root
Canadian Xpress headmasta
Canadian Xpress Superior Potash( 1st time )

EXACTLY. Canadian XPress are, along with ATA, the most reasonably priced products on the market imho. Regen-A-Root is damn good stuff and I think the cheapest of the root stims. Superior Potash, since they changed Hammerhead is the best PK booster on the market as it has the correct 1:2 ratio of P to K. PK13/14 is good for growing large flowers but has the wrong ratio of P to K for cannabis. A 0-9-18 formulation with the correct 1:2 ratio of P to K gives the same yield boost as PK13/14 but with noticeably greater resin production. Headmasta is good stuff too and much cheaper than alternatives like Canna Boost, not sure exactly what's in Head Masta but I could find out easy enough from their technical data they have to publish by law, it will be the same old stuff that's in other boosters - kelp, humates, carbs, aminos.

Another Canadian Xpress product I like is Spray Safe, works very well against mites and is the cheapest mite spray around as a litre of it is less than a 250ml bottle from their competitors. I am using SBPI at the moment to treat mites as I can buy it at the local garden centre and it's cheap, but if I had a hydro store locally, I'd go for Spray Safe.
 

theherbalizor

Well-known member
Veteran
Must start using liquid silicone. Something I always forget to buy.

Love all that knowledge FM. You have a grasp of nutrition that we all should have. I will be the first to admit I do not know enough about the shit I feed my plants, I have a basic understanding. But with indepth knowledge on organic chemistry I seam to muddle through ok.

When ever I get onto nutes I always have a chuckle remembering some kiddy that came into my store looking for a bottle of the magical John Innes additive. I tried to explain to him that John Innes was a chap that developed a set of 4 formulae for growing mediums. With differing ferts ratios for differing stages of growth... He then asked if I knew his email address so he could talk direct.. Thats where I fell over and had to explain that this was in 1930's and had nothing to do with weed. I advised he read up on horticulture.

So, whats in my mix atm.

House and Garden A&B Coco.
Root Excel
BCuzz Coco booster
Hygrozym and Bactivator once a week to end of flower.

Thats veg.

Then early flower I introduce

Multizym
Superior Potash
Fulvic (when I stop Root XL around day 14)
Humic (when I stop Root XL around day 14)
Bcuzz Coco Bloom stim
FFF

Then mid flower I replace Multizym for BudXL. Also I stop Bcuzz coco booster around week 5.

Week 7 I stop all Bactivator and FFF. No more Superior Potash and pretty much go down to a very basic

A&B at 1.2
Bud XL
and Top Shooting Powder for about 10-14 days.

Then mollases (vitrasol) for a week then flush till done.

I use Superthrive throughout. A capful (small bottle) in each bucket. But not first 2 weeks of flower. And at the end I throw loads in with the Top Shooter Apps.

I have used so many different additives over the years. This seams to be the best mix for me and my regime. The only thing I would like to add is Guanokalong liquid extract, but with my style I would be throwing money away for a little increase in taste. Well quite a big difference actually. But I like to use it at 1L / 10 L in last 3 weeks of flower feeds.

I know I can make my own alot cheaper by using the powders, but I seriously have no time.
 

theherbalizor

Well-known member
Veteran
Strain Evaluation Smoke Report
Strain?

Apollo Princess (3rd Place cup winner)

Breeder?


H3ad Seeds.

Sativa Or Indica

60 % Sat

Lineage?


(Apollo 11 (c99 x genius) x C99) x Sour D V3

Grown Or Purchased

Grown by Dr. D

Indoor Grown or Outdoor

Indoor

Organics or Synthetics


Mixture of both

Hydroponics or Soil


Coco

Bag Appeal

* 9. It was very nice, looked yummy

Bud Density

* 4. Quite dense but can be squeezed
* 5 Very dense, like rocks

Odour Level


9. pungent odours, fruity, tarty

Describe odour in your own words


Dry, spicy, pungent and quite fruity. The C99 and Sour D are very detectable. Has a lovely earthy edge and this also carries lovely notes of black fruits like blackberries, black currents and red grapes. Also a little perfumed. Very similar to GPD with its fruity perfumes.

Smoke Report

8.

Taste

Fruity, sweet, tart, dry and meaty.

Smoothness

5.

Indica Or Sativa high


Sativa High, Happy, energetic, some body later

Immediate Effect or Creeper

5. 30 seconds

Duration of High


a good few hours.

High Description

You feel this one almost instantly. Right between the eyes and on the temples. Giving that headbanding effect. After a 3rd of the spliff you feel a nice body buzz and relaxation. Eyes feel a little heavy. Kind off feel motivated yet relaxed. Good for making music or even writing smoke reports. This is a report I looked forward to writing. Unlike other that just destroy all motivation to do anything but smoke.
This is lovely weed. Such a great high profile. Not too soaring that you drift off and not too body that all you want to do is slouch. It delivers motivated relaxation with intensity and waves of euphoria. I can really see why this placed in the cup.

The high is similar to that of old skool amnesia haze from barneys - back in the day. Just not quite as mind numbing. Very good for inducing munchies.

Medicinal value

Stimulates Appetite

Keeper?


Yes

Your DOB


1\01\1980

Duration of your cannabis use?

+ 15 years

Cannabis use - Frequency?

* Daily use - night and day

Cannabis Use - Quantity


About 7 grams

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