I saw passive plant killer. said i got to read that. could not stop before i new it the day was gone and my brain said "this is the shit" ive been growing for about a year had my ups and downs. got some pretty girls now. but this just looks to be what i have been looking for. D9 great idea and presintation. i am going to bulid a few. thanks for all the work and posting it here.
passive plant killer
- Thread starter delta9nxs
- Start date
S
SCROG McDuck
Away goes the bubble cloner
Away goes the bubble cloner
2 more days and the bubble cloner goes in the trash.
D9s', wick cloners w turface and FNB are insane with clones
or toss in seeds (dry, out of the package) and they are germinators. 2/3 so far,
#3 just went into mini wick geminator yesterday, 5-7 days, presto.
#1 was a 3 year old Joey Weed AK47, I thought it was going to be a sacrafice seed. 5 days.
#2 was a 5 pack of ******s freebe mix.. but in nylon balls as the
media. 7 Days.
I expect the DNA Sour Cream, #3, to appear in 5-7 days..
No pumps or stones... lovin it.
Away goes the bubble cloner
2 more days and the bubble cloner goes in the trash.
D9s', wick cloners w turface and FNB are insane with clones
or toss in seeds (dry, out of the package) and they are germinators. 2/3 so far,
#3 just went into mini wick geminator yesterday, 5-7 days, presto.
#1 was a 3 year old Joey Weed AK47, I thought it was going to be a sacrafice seed. 5 days.
#2 was a 5 pack of ******s freebe mix.. but in nylon balls as the
media. 7 Days.
I expect the DNA Sour Cream, #3, to appear in 5-7 days..
No pumps or stones... lovin it.
...and so it continues... Niceness.
n/a
n/a
S
SCROG McDuck
Jump.
S
SCROG McDuck
Hi McDuck, I'm the canna guy and I'm totally happy with it. My bag tested .2EC RO runoff so I didnt have to rinse it.
I have not had the "holds too much juice" problem. Or said another way...The Bitch likes it
Use it with confidence,
OO
Thanks old1.. I'll try it too.. since its been everywhere that
the B'Cuzz 'isnt available any more'..
just wanted to report that I have set up my buckets with a hole and a tailpiece. The tailpiece has four holes plus the bottom is open but flush with the bottom of the bucket. Today I took all my buckets out and set them on 2x4's so I could observe the runoff. There was a tiny bit of coco in a few buckets but no new coco is coming out of any of the holes.
I have no drain holes in my bucket beyond the wick and was scared that they would drain unevenly if some wicks are more packed than others. They look like they are draining OK but the EC in one was .93 and another one was 1.7. They have just gone into fresh botanicare coco grow. The documentation says no need to rinse, but after the trasnplant the runoff was like 2.5. I watered with 1.0 EC for a few days. I am watering them one by one from the top and trying to get the EC close. Maybe I should just get the bottom watering going.
I don't think I'll use this brand of coco any more. I'll probably go back to cana.
I have no drain holes in my bucket beyond the wick and was scared that they would drain unevenly if some wicks are more packed than others. They look like they are draining OK but the EC in one was .93 and another one was 1.7. They have just gone into fresh botanicare coco grow. The documentation says no need to rinse, but after the trasnplant the runoff was like 2.5. I watered with 1.0 EC for a few days. I am watering them one by one from the top and trying to get the EC close. Maybe I should just get the bottom watering going.
I don't think I'll use this brand of coco any more. I'll probably go back to cana.
S
SCROG McDuck
D9.. I'm cornfused...back aroung page 24 you say:
Starting with an unknown volume of ro water I add jack's until I hit my target ppm, they recommend 630 ppm for commercial use.
Mix it thoroughly. I use a canoe paddle. If you overshoot your target add water to bring it down before adding the calcinit. I usually give it about 10 minutes and then just throw in the calcium nitrate mixing after each application until I hit their recommended dose of 216 ppm.
At this point your solution should read 846 if you are dead on. That's it. This will not precipitate.
I dont know if you promoted .67 CalNit then and realize that that was early in your investigations and manipulation of Jacks+
and your formula there was the 'recommended' dose; is more like 1/.34
630 x .67 = 422 or 1072 ppms not 630+216 and 846.
That is to say, in plain english, that one uses 67% of CalNit of the amount of Jacks Pro used.
Yes, I'm waked and baked... and need it simple right now.
I thought I had it down pat.. Pat who!??
Hope you're well...
Starting with an unknown volume of ro water I add jack's until I hit my target ppm, they recommend 630 ppm for commercial use.
Mix it thoroughly. I use a canoe paddle. If you overshoot your target add water to bring it down before adding the calcinit. I usually give it about 10 minutes and then just throw in the calcium nitrate mixing after each application until I hit their recommended dose of 216 ppm.
At this point your solution should read 846 if you are dead on. That's it. This will not precipitate.
I dont know if you promoted .67 CalNit then and realize that that was early in your investigations and manipulation of Jacks+
and your formula there was the 'recommended' dose; is more like 1/.34
630 x .67 = 422 or 1072 ppms not 630+216 and 846.
That is to say, in plain english, that one uses 67% of CalNit of the amount of Jacks Pro used.
Yes, I'm waked and baked... and need it simple right now.
I thought I had it down pat.. Pat who!??
Hope you're well...
hi, bearded1! welcome! if you need anything let us know.
jjfoo, man, the more i think about that open tailpiece full of coco, the more i'm certain it's going to let a big wad of coco fall out at some point in your grow.
i think you need at least a piece of fiberglass screen or some kind of fabric over the end.
everybody, the only coco i've ever tried is the atami stuff and hd's 7.99 block.
the atami is still available, my local grow shop has stack's of it. looks like several pallet loads. very high quality control. it is still being manufactured.
the hd block has to be hydrated and is dirty. mostly dark river mouth beach sand and small rocks. i put it into a 44 gal tub with 20 gals of water, broke it up and soaked it overnight, fished it out onto a screen, rinsed it with the hose, and then mixed it 50/50 with the atami coco. i think the hd stuff will work well on it's own as long as you rinse it and treat it well.
a lot of people are putting out decent coco. i think the major concern for us is to make sure we get an even graded mix with all different particle sizes and fiber strands. the fiber strands help to avoid compacting.
i fill the grow container to the top and then rinse it in with the hose. it establishes it's own level of working density. after a good rinse and drain i pour an equal volume of whatever strength solution i'm working with through the medium real slow.
another good drain and then into the veg system where it is hooked up for operation and allowed to run at least overnight. this lets everything stabilize. not just chemically but temperature too.
when i transplant a clone they just take off. no stall, no spots, no discoloration. lush, rapid growth.
i understand that the canna and botanicare cocos are very good but old andrew olley uses galuka with good results. there are bound to be many others.
my philosophy on them all is that, no matter what they say they have done with it, i'm still going to treat it as outlined above.
the ppk is likely to be more tolerant of low grade coco than a standard container because of the way it regulates moisture.
later on
jjfoo, man, the more i think about that open tailpiece full of coco, the more i'm certain it's going to let a big wad of coco fall out at some point in your grow.
i think you need at least a piece of fiberglass screen or some kind of fabric over the end.
everybody, the only coco i've ever tried is the atami stuff and hd's 7.99 block.
the atami is still available, my local grow shop has stack's of it. looks like several pallet loads. very high quality control. it is still being manufactured.
the hd block has to be hydrated and is dirty. mostly dark river mouth beach sand and small rocks. i put it into a 44 gal tub with 20 gals of water, broke it up and soaked it overnight, fished it out onto a screen, rinsed it with the hose, and then mixed it 50/50 with the atami coco. i think the hd stuff will work well on it's own as long as you rinse it and treat it well.
a lot of people are putting out decent coco. i think the major concern for us is to make sure we get an even graded mix with all different particle sizes and fiber strands. the fiber strands help to avoid compacting.
i fill the grow container to the top and then rinse it in with the hose. it establishes it's own level of working density. after a good rinse and drain i pour an equal volume of whatever strength solution i'm working with through the medium real slow.
another good drain and then into the veg system where it is hooked up for operation and allowed to run at least overnight. this lets everything stabilize. not just chemically but temperature too.
when i transplant a clone they just take off. no stall, no spots, no discoloration. lush, rapid growth.
i understand that the canna and botanicare cocos are very good but old andrew olley uses galuka with good results. there are bound to be many others.
my philosophy on them all is that, no matter what they say they have done with it, i'm still going to treat it as outlined above.
the ppk is likely to be more tolerant of low grade coco than a standard container because of the way it regulates moisture.
later on
hey, mcduck! my early calc on that was wrong, i corrected it somewhere. disregard the 1/.34, that is wrong.
use 1/.67. this ratio is correct at any dose. what working strength do you want? ec 1.5 or 750 ppm at .5 is 450 ppm or ec .9 jack's and 300 ppm or ec .6 calcium nitrate.
S
SCROG McDuck
Implementation of the ppks has led to moving water.
Very Low Pressure, moving of water! for the most part
but moving water is always a concern.
Here is what I came up with for the Valve Stem to 1/4" tubeing
connection, necessary for all controll to ppk buckets.
1/4" inside diameter (ID) tube fits very snugly over the threads of the valve stem.
1/4" outside diameter (OD) tubeing fits, snugly, inside the 1/4" ID
hose that was placed over the threads of the valve stem..
Then a piece of shrink tube over the whole sebang.
Shrink tube> http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-heat-shrink-wire-wrap-assortment-9639.html
Another bigger piece of shrink tube or a plasitc zip tie if you're worried.
and for what it's worth, 5/16" tubeing fits, snugly, into the other end of the valve stem.
Very Low Pressure, moving of water! for the most part
but moving water is always a concern.
Here is what I came up with for the Valve Stem to 1/4" tubeing
connection, necessary for all controll to ppk buckets.
1/4" inside diameter (ID) tube fits very snugly over the threads of the valve stem.
1/4" outside diameter (OD) tubeing fits, snugly, inside the 1/4" ID
hose that was placed over the threads of the valve stem..
Then a piece of shrink tube over the whole sebang.
Shrink tube> http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-heat-shrink-wire-wrap-assortment-9639.html
Another bigger piece of shrink tube or a plasitc zip tie if you're worried.
and for what it's worth, 5/16" tubeing fits, snugly, into the other end of the valve stem.
Attachments
S
SCROG McDuck
Brain cells 'do' reproduce, d9... I remembered! HA!
By the way, theses ppks and more so the Jacks+ has taken me
out of many of the other forum threads that deal with Ph up, Ph down, too much this, too little that, air, noise, etc, etc...
I dont care !
Just the revelation of 1/.67 is monumental (to my little brain anyway).
mcduck, that looks good as long as it doesn't leak. funny i've used heat shrink tubing quite a bit for electronic apps but i didn't think of it here.
i assume all the pieces were locally available for you. that is good. i had to order the 3/16" black latex tube.
later
i assume all the pieces were locally available for you. that is good. i had to order the 3/16" black latex tube.
later
S
SCROG McDuck
My unsucessfull quest for 3/16th black tube, led me, like you intially, to fabricate..
I dont think it will leak.
I dont think it will leak.
S
SCROG McDuck
Hey burnt rope.. this is the link FOR THE JACKS ORDERING...
JACKS 5-12-26 and calcium nitrate..
Thanks IF..
I'm not trying to be sarcastic or anything. Many times our intuitive way of thinking is often wrong. Maybe because until we measure stuff we are making way to many assumptions. This is part of being human.
All I can say is try it. In a simple set up where you can easily observe the actual behavior of the coco. The coco quickly forms a net of its own due to the fibers. I've used large drain holes with no leakage in the past.
If there is no leakage wouldn't it be one less thing to do and maintain when building and running PPKs?
