Should I Drywall??

[Tolkin Bowls]

I have a unfinished room w/insulation do you guys think it is best to drywall and then install the panda plastic or can I just install the plastic over the insulation on to the studs? Pros and Cons?

Peace

 

[zor]

u can install the panda plastic without drywall, but drywall provides more insulation and sound absorption

 

[Rysam]

Drywall is comparable to plywood in price and offers a degree of fire safety too. Yes it will take a fair amount of work to install but then you have a semi-finished room when the grow is done. Paint it white and roll on, save the cash on the plastic unless you need quicky dividers.!

 

[HydroCab]

i was actually asking a long time home builder about the fire safety of dry wall and such.

basically for wut we do, he said that 5/8" dry wall is considered the standard fire retardant walls in a commercial setting.

so pop up some dry wall, mud and paint it and ur good.

i myself was contemplating its use on a ceiling...

 

[calstar]

Rysam, a sheet of 1/2" drywall is a lot cheaper than plywood, about $6 vs. $15 for 1/2"plywood(5/8" drywall is $7, prices at home depot). Without the drywall, anything falls against the plastic will tear a hole in it.

Moisture resistant ("greenboard") drywall is available at a few bucks extra per sheet.

Rysam is right about the paint, there are reflective paints available that will do the job in place of the plastic. Always use a drywall sealer(applys just like paint, cheaper than paint) before applying paint or the paint will not cover well.

If you do not want a finished wall effect there is no reason to tape and mud the seams, other than to "firetape" the seams with one coat of mud/tape.

 

[odium33]

i would rock it, skip the spackle and paint, cover in panda film, then when you are done with the garden, go back and do a nice job spackling and painting and you will easily be able to finish the room if you want. One drawback of going straight panda film to studs, is the panda film rips right out of the staples really easily. to make it hold tight, you have to put pieces of gorilla (preferably) or duct tape wherever you plan on putting a staple

 

[milehighmedical]

.

 

[Flying High]

Thanks for asking this question; I have been trying to decide which way to go myself.
Is something like 1/4"ply totally out of place; not much fire protection?

Sounds like I need to hang drywall... Is it worth the extra money to buy the sound absorbent drywall; I forget the name? Is greenboard the same stuff?

Any opinions on the best way to insulate; Rigid foam, fiberglass, ???

 

[hup234]

Thanks for asking this question; I have been trying to decide which way to go myself.
Is something like 1/4"ply totally out of place; not much fire protection?

Sounds like I need to hang drywall... Is it worth the extra money to buy the sound absorbent drywall; I forget the name? Is greenboard the same stuff?

Any opinions on the best way to insulate; Rigid foam, fiberglass, ???

just buy cheap fiberglass for between the studs and rock it w/5/8"gyp,there's quiet rock 1/2"that's equivelent to 8 layers of gyp but it costs $60 4x8 sheet...

 

[Guest50138]

I built a room not to long ago using drywall (we call it plasterboard in Aus) I painted it with 3 coats of bathroom white and its working great ,the bathroom paint inhibits mold and is easy to wash,panda goes brittle with age, if your building for the long term go drywall....its cheap too . and I just use fiberglass batts for insulation.

 

[dexter840]

don't use plywood- that crap delaminates with moisture... OSB is way better if you insist on wood, but the drywall where it's at. finishing drywall sucks but plants don't care how it looks as long as light or smell don't leak

 

[the gnome]

dex if your comparing plywood to OSB you have it backwards.
OSB is basically woodchips glued together and is cheaper and is inferior to plywood

also if you don't at least do a basic taping on the sheetrock joints the smell will penetrate thru the the joints, so make sure the outside wall is sealed one way or another or do a basic taping on the inside.
if you use sheetrock get the greenboard, its resists moisture better than the reg stuff

 

[420ish]

taping and mudding is essential to keep smell in check.you want the room as air tight and sealed as possible.before drywalling get a good plan and execute for air intake and exhaust.it is much harder and time consuming to add or modify your intakes and exhaust later.i have seen a thread on figuring airflow for intake and exhaust.i didnt plan well enough and am still trying to get it right without ripping apart and redoing everything over again.once you have it going ,modifying is a bitch when the room is full

 

[SCROG McDuck]

I've been useing MFB (MDF?) high density fiber board because it
works easy, is easily paintable and looks 'finished' whihout sanding....
it is expensive and heavy.

but y'all are converting me.. I never thought of DW..with metal studs

If the 'room' is going to be 'temporary', use painters tape (the blue one, comes off easily) the joints, on the inside of the wall... mud is messy...
insulation would kinda nice. and IMO, there is something 'better' about
mylar than flat white paint.. I'm a cheap SOB but I like my yields
better when I use the Mylar.. 2mil hung with velcro 3/4inch 'dots',
saples are a PITA

 

[WasntMe]

Do yourself and anyone using your meds a favor: NEVER USE MDF

Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) is a manufactured wood product used in a variety of industries. The manufacturing process includes some chemicals which may be hazardous to humans, leading to concerns about the health risks of MDF. There are two primary health risks of MDF: exposure to the chemicals used to make it, and wood dust.

To make MDF, a company shreds wood, softens it, and turns it into a fine powder. The powder is combined with resins and other bonding agents and compacted into solid boards. A number of different woods can be used to make MDF, and the material is also sometimes treated to be fire, water, or stain resistant.

Toxic chemicals are one of the major health risks of MDF. The chemical of most concern is formaldehyde, which can aggravate asthma and other lung conditions, irritate mucous membranes, and cause contact dermatitis. Studies on formaldehyde also suggest that it is a likely carcinogen, and it should be generally avoided. During the manufacturing process, personnel should protect themselves with respirators and adequate clothing. When cutting or working with MDF, nose, mouth, and eye protection should be worn. Finished MDF also has offgas, raising concerns about its use in the home. MDF should never be burned except in adequately ventilated facilities.

Even at a low level, exposure to formaldehyde though inhalation can cause
irritation to the eyes, nose, throat and mucous membrane. Formaldehyde can
also affect the skin, leading to dermatitis, and the respiratory system
causing asthma and rhinitis. The International Agency for Research on
Cancer (IARC), part of the World Health Organisation, quoted evidence that
even short term exposure to formaldehyde, at far below the legal limit
allowable in Britain, could cause irritation to the eyes, nose and throat.

The IARC's findings also stated that wood dust is a carcinogen' (cancer
causing) and that 'formaldehyde is probably carcinogenic to humans'. IARC
was also concerned about the reproductive hazards of formaldehyde'.

Formaldehyde is classified in the UK and throughout Europe as a Category 3
Carcinogen. This means it is a substance which "causes concern for humans
owing to possible carcinogenic effects but, in respect of which, available
information is not adequate for making a satisfactory assessment." This
puts formaldehyde on the GPMU list of potential carcinogens, meaning it
should be replaced where possible, and if not, subject to rigorous controls
that reduce exposure to the lowest possible level.

 

[mothersucker]

Formaldehyde isn't exclusive to MDF. A lot of plywood, OSB, etc. also use it. Chances are if it's processed (glued) wood and it doesn't specifically state "formaldehyde-free", it isn't.

 

[SCROG McDuck]

Do yourself and anyone using your meds a favor: NEVER USE MDF

Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) is a manufactured wood product used in a variety of industries. The manufacturing process includes some chemicals which may be hazardous to humans, leading to concerns about the health risks of MDF. There are two primary health risks of MDF: exposure to the chemicals used to make it, and wood dust.


Toxic chemicals home. MDF should never be burned except in adequately ventilated facilities.

Even at a low level, exposure to formaldehyde though inhalation can cause
irritation to the eyes, nose, throat and mucous membrane. eyes, nose and throat.

The IARC's findings also stated that wood dust is a carcinogen' (cancer
causing) and that 'formaldehyde is probably carcinogenic to humans'. IARC
was also concerned about the reproductive hazards of formaldehyde'.

Formaldehyde is classified in the UK and throughout Europe as a Category 3
Carcinogen. This means it is a substance which "causes concern for humans
owing to possible carcinogenic effects but, in respect of which, available
information is not adequate for making a satisfactory assessment." This
puts formaldehyde on the GPMU list of potential carcinogens, meaning it
should be replaced where possible, and if not, subject to rigorous controls
that reduce exposure to the lowest possible level.

JimminyCrickets, WasntMe.. talk about raining on my parade...!

Gassing is one of those things I NEVER think about.
What is it.. N-G-W.com blue & blackhalf inch hose gasses and kill yields.. I read it here, somewhere.. I'm holding (in my hands right now) a 100' roll of the blue.. unopened.. it reaks of plastic smell.

I'm rebuilding, anyway, after these grows... no MDF..

Thanks for the info..

 

[WasntMe]

It's kind of scary to think about how some of these products sold to the general public will sit in our homes. To us, it seems like a perfectly standard and mundane bookshelf (or whatever) but in reality they a slowly emitting toxic gasses that are the result of their manufacturing process.
Now some have the thought process that "it's only one bookshelf and the minimal amount of gassing is negligible so no harm no foul".
Unfortunately, the reality is that some one is putting that bookshelf next to their bed or their kids bed where they will spend 1/3 of their life (8hrs a night) breathing in that toxic gassing.
mmmmm. tasty. also people that have that type of furniture tend to have more then one piece which ups the concentration levels of the gassing in the air they breath.

Now as far as being around your meds, I have not seen any MDF vs Cannabis studies obviously. But look at the problems it can cause in humans. I, personally, would not want to chance that my meds would pass those issues onto myself or someone else.
Also, knowing now, about the yield effects of similar gassing from certain plastic products ... like the tubing mentioned above ... it would be safer IMO to avoid MDF and other press wood products as much as possible and keep them away from your grow.


here is some more MDF and pressed wood info on the EPA web site.

http://www.epa.gov/opptintr/chemtest/formaldehyde/
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/formalde.html
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/725.html

hope this helps someone

 

[ballplayer 2]

I would go with drywall if you plan on using the structure at least semi-permanently.

That being said, I built a room 4 years ago using drywall and have been unsuccessful in that room ever since. For reference; I have been a successful gardener outdoors, and was fairly successful indoors for about 2 years before building this room.However, I wanted to build my "dream" grow room. This is likely not the drywalls fault though (unless I was unlucky enough to get the chinese drywall, which given my luck is NOT all that far fetched).

I was a complete newb at building anything, let alone considering the possibility of the materials off gassing. I have been at my wits end trying to figure out why the hell I could not garden all of the sudden. I figured I was overwatering/underwatering/overfertilizing, etc, etc. I believe I have narrowed the likely culprits of the off gassing to cheap/crappy VOC heavy primer/paint and using caulk to seal the drywall at every seam. I just found out last week that caulk is a notorious off gassing nuisance. Hopefully I did not get the toxic drywall, my metal door hinges on the grow rooms have not corroded and I dont see any markings stating "made in china." However, I dont see any markings that say made in the USA on my drywall either.

Here I thought off gassing was only taking place in the huts. I am absolutely sure I have an off gassing problem in my grow rooms, I just have to find a way to fix it. I have been contributing to a thread in the Growers forum in the Hydro section. It discusses the possible culprits of off gas. My next course of action is to get a high quality Low/Zero VOC primer to seal the off gas of the drywall/paint/caulk and the paint over the top with a Zero VOC paint. Hopefully I will be able to seal off the offending offgassing items and get some decent use out of the room.

In any case, be thorough researching the quality of the product you use to build your rooms with and you should be fine. Buy quality "sealing" primers/paints such as Coronado or Benjamin Moore with low or zero VOC's and dont use caulk.

 

[mothersucker]

What kind of caulk? Haven't had any problems myself with the "Alex FastDry" (Acrylic + Latex) so far, but definitely nice to get a heads-up on this.

I also used some "PolySeamSeal" which I believe is high in VOC.

I'm not sure that any/all VOC's are toxic to plants in these "off-gassable" quantities, by the way. And the entire deal with getting no-VOC paints, etc, I think is going a bit too far.