what kind of results did you get using Lc's mix #1 w/ recipe #1 (used exactly)
- Thread starter captinknots
- Start date
captinknots
Member
i feel you man. i got a staggard grow too.
captinknots
Member
Yo Louie, did you have any bugs in your grow? root aphids to be exact?
I'm still working out the problem right now, I started another batch so I'm hoping If I supplement with added teas and fish hydrolysate it will help fix it. No, I didn't have any root aphid problems. I did have bulb mites (in the soil, they usually live on bulb type flowers and onions) at one time, but they weren't an issue.
the root aphid wiped out most of france's grape (and therefore wine) production in the late 1800s. in 20 years, european winemakers saw their production drop by 66%. it's hard to imagine the economic devastation. or maybe not.
eventually, after many tries, a cure was found: grafting the softer-rooted european grapes onto the harder rootstock of american grapes. this is still the only cure, save some pretty nasty chemicals you can read about on these boards, and is still why almost all wine grapevines are grafted. grape phylloxera is still rampant worldwide. the only places spared are island countries like cyprus and australia, and even they now have cases.
now comes a new beast, the cannabis root aphid. likely it jumped from another commercial crop, or the wild, or both, because i am sure there is more than one species that attacks cannabis. and you will learn, even one species can have around 16 or 18 different phenotypes. whatever the root aphid species (or name) they all share a common biology and life-traits, and are truly one of the most devilish and destructive pests ever. they can be eradicated, one needs only determination, and a cold heart: i recommend sacrificing all plants.
live from california, how to cure root aphids:
1. cut and dispose of all plants.
2. bomb rooms with fogger.
3. bleach floors.
4. repeat #2 and #3 3x over 2 weeks.
5. in the meantime clean all equipment.
6. hang and place yellow stick cards everywhere. monitor constantly.
7. discover aphids you missed.
8. ditto #7.
9. ditto #8.
10. rebuild room from scratch. put in biosecurity measures: all incoming air first screened, then HEPA filtered. all cracks and holes caulked. chemical and physical barriers at all possible entry points, starting with doors, ending with plants.
11. introduce clean new plants from seed or clones from TRUSTED source.
jus' sayin'
now some other jack is gonna come and say bayer or merit. really? you gonna put that on a 60 day crop? for real? good growers don't need it. neither do your good customers. and i'll stand by that.
eventually, after many tries, a cure was found: grafting the softer-rooted european grapes onto the harder rootstock of american grapes. this is still the only cure, save some pretty nasty chemicals you can read about on these boards, and is still why almost all wine grapevines are grafted. grape phylloxera is still rampant worldwide. the only places spared are island countries like cyprus and australia, and even they now have cases.
now comes a new beast, the cannabis root aphid. likely it jumped from another commercial crop, or the wild, or both, because i am sure there is more than one species that attacks cannabis. and you will learn, even one species can have around 16 or 18 different phenotypes. whatever the root aphid species (or name) they all share a common biology and life-traits, and are truly one of the most devilish and destructive pests ever. they can be eradicated, one needs only determination, and a cold heart: i recommend sacrificing all plants.
live from california, how to cure root aphids:
1. cut and dispose of all plants.
2. bomb rooms with fogger.
3. bleach floors.
4. repeat #2 and #3 3x over 2 weeks.
5. in the meantime clean all equipment.
6. hang and place yellow stick cards everywhere. monitor constantly.
7. discover aphids you missed.
8. ditto #7.
9. ditto #8.
10. rebuild room from scratch. put in biosecurity measures: all incoming air first screened, then HEPA filtered. all cracks and holes caulked. chemical and physical barriers at all possible entry points, starting with doors, ending with plants.
11. introduce clean new plants from seed or clones from TRUSTED source.
jus' sayin'
now some other jack is gonna come and say bayer or merit. really? you gonna put that on a 60 day crop? for real? good growers don't need it. neither do your good customers. and i'll stand by that.
No, I'm gonna come along and tell you it's a lot easier than that to get rid of them, by using the Tanglefoot and Toss Technique!
Put a sheet of Panda like in the photo under every pot - that's a line of Tanglefoot around the edge.
All pots that show up with aphids take cuttings and toss the plant.
Have dry DE granules(floor absorber from NAPA or DE kitty litter) as a layer in your trays and around the edges of the room - keep it dry, water remotely for a while.
The flyers only show up after the crawlers in newly infected pots.
There is no place for them to hang out without having to hang in DE.
Strong fans really help keep the flyers down if you are trying to finish an infested crop in flower and have a separate veg area.
Definitely no connecting drain lines between drain trays - they are aphid superhighways
If you keep the sheets under at least your veg plants in the future, it will keep them from invading half your plants before you even notice them - they are under control if you bring more in via new soil.
Good luck getting the Tanglefoot off of your clothes, but it is so worth it.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/photo_popup.php?e=vB_Editor_001#
Put a sheet of Panda like in the photo under every pot - that's a line of Tanglefoot around the edge.
All pots that show up with aphids take cuttings and toss the plant.
Have dry DE granules(floor absorber from NAPA or DE kitty litter) as a layer in your trays and around the edges of the room - keep it dry, water remotely for a while.
The flyers only show up after the crawlers in newly infected pots.
There is no place for them to hang out without having to hang in DE.
Strong fans really help keep the flyers down if you are trying to finish an infested crop in flower and have a separate veg area.
Definitely no connecting drain lines between drain trays - they are aphid superhighways
If you keep the sheets under at least your veg plants in the future, it will keep them from invading half your plants before you even notice them - they are under control if you bring more in via new soil.
Good luck getting the Tanglefoot off of your clothes, but it is so worth it.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/photo_popup.php?e=vB_Editor_001#
TheGhostOfLC
New member
Tweak the mix to your particular grows, boys....Thats the fun of organics...No mix will work perfect on any one grow....LC
captinknots
Member
Thanks dudes. yeah i cant seal my garage as i have to use the garage door to get in. besides you can never spot every little tiny flying bug or egg that could possibly contaminate your garden. clean all you want, i dont see that as a real long term solution. im really not trying to create an medical clean room or some shit lol. i think making it uncomfortable for them sounds like a pretty good control measure.
as far as my soil and plants are concerned, ive learned that most of the problems have been countered by adding nutes (either general organics or guano tea) at a strong rate. like double the bottle rate or 4 tbs per gal for the guano.
still not sure why the dolomite lime is not working well to suppliment the cal and mg.
any ideas?
im just using liquid cal mg till i can find an answer. id think 2 tbs per gal of dolomite lime was a heavy dose. not enough for early flower i guess...
as far as my soil and plants are concerned, ive learned that most of the problems have been countered by adding nutes (either general organics or guano tea) at a strong rate. like double the bottle rate or 4 tbs per gal for the guano.
still not sure why the dolomite lime is not working well to suppliment the cal and mg.
any ideas?
im just using liquid cal mg till i can find an answer. id think 2 tbs per gal of dolomite lime was a heavy dose. not enough for early flower i guess...
I had plants just like Loiue. stoped nutes added wattered heavy for a couple weeks untill i read enough here to try using EWC tea+molasses. wish i had a camara so i could show the stages and how they look now they are awsome. I hope i have figured this out. i think my mix (LC #1) was to hot haddnt cooked long enough before i started.
captinknots
Member
i know i was using the molasses and ewc to water and still got the shitty results. i think Louis as well but ill let him answer that. hope it works out for you. if i were you and have been reading this thread id think about adding some ferts and or cal mg supplement, especially if you see any early warning signs!
good luck bro.
good luck bro.
captinknots
Member
yellowing early in flower. like week 3.
captinknots
Member
i think fertilizing is the answer. mine look much better. oh yeah and stay away from the wet/dry cycle. keep it moist. a cal mg source isnt a bad idea either....or just stick with the guano tea recipe, that seems to work well too!~
Chronic Future
Member
I had the same problem in LC#1 mix heavy yellowing 3-4 weeks into flower I think the problem was the 30% perlite with the castings and peat holding alot of water the mix stays wet too long so I added 40% perlite and even parts of ewc, peat, light warrior and added 2 tbs blood meal to 1 gal soil and yeah the yellowing went away.
it's absolutely essential to get watering right with a dry ferts only regimen. water makes the whole thing go.
If you get yellowing early, you need to hit the reset button, with a compost tea application, a good top dress, and a separate fish hydrolysate/seaweed application or some other supplementation.
don't give up just because you see yellow leaves!
If you get yellowing early, you need to hit the reset button, with a compost tea application, a good top dress, and a separate fish hydrolysate/seaweed application or some other supplementation.
don't give up just because you see yellow leaves!
Chronic Future
Member
Nah dont feed teas or topdress with dry ferts already added to the soil unless you want to fry your plants there is no reset button with ferts already added in the soil
The recipes in the BEGINNERS sticky are for new growers who have either never grown before or never grown organic before. Most first time growers fail miserably without a little guidance. After a few grows, you should learn what your plants like and then continue on with some good experience.
Just trying to help.
Burn1
Just trying to help.
Burn1
I
IE2KS_KUSH
I love it and am grateful thank you thank you. I have some plants struggle some do better. Learning as I go works great. Did I say THANK YOU!
