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Spilt A/C for a tent..Questions

Super.Seeds

Active member
ICMag Donor
I run 2 600's in a 4x8 tent and have now broken (or frozen the coil idk) 2 portable A/C's trying to keep this room cool. They were 10,000 and 13,000 BTUs and suck badly (weren't used at the same time...when one broke i got a new one lol). During the summer months I barely made it! Temps outside the tent are only 65-80 degrees (winter-summer). The lights are air cooled but only with 4" fans which are high speed but still are wimpy lol (bought the reflectors when I didn't know shit or else I would've got 6" ducting). The ducting is insulated also.

Anyway, I want to run CO2 but the *portable* ACs suck the CO2 out of the room and cause the tent walls to suck in. This probably hurts the tent and my CO2 never gets to 1500 PPMs. I decided that a split AC would be a good idea and want to get one but I have a few questions:
-How many BTUs cooling/heating do I need? 20,000? Room was perfect temps at night but when the lights come on these things struggle hard to keep temps below 80. I want temps at 70! Id even settle at a higher temp with CO2 but I can't even run my CO2 generator at this point in time and it costs a lot for a fuzzy logic/electronic-start 2-burner CO2 generator! :wallbash:

Any help is much appreciated. What do you guys do? I want to get this CO2 pumpin!! THANKS

SS
 
Last edited:

Super.Seeds

Active member
ICMag Donor
Bump. 26 views and no replies? I'm sure someone out there has been daring enough to put a split A/C in a tent...Let's hear it!

SS
 
D

Diamonddss

well, im not much help but i will say portible AC's are complete crap and ill never relie on them again. A good wall unit will work way better and replace both portables and no negative pressure for CO2. Although i was gonna use CO2 i found it was just not for me. Instead i run a exhaust 24/7 providing plenty of fresh air. However, CO2 is superior i just ran out a patience for it and no negative pressure and 100% sealed was a real problem because of location.
As far as split units like i said im no help
 
G

Guest 18340

I don't grow in a tent but do use a mini split. 9k btu is all you'll need.
Mitsubishi Mr.Slim, Fujitsu, Lg, Sanyo <-Those are the best manufacturer's. Choose a model with an inverter and you'll save a lot on your juice bill.
Physically assembling and wiring the units are straight forward, but you'll need an AC tech to vacuum the lineset. Unless you have your own pump and micron gauges or know a "cool" hvac tech.

 

Dislexus

the shit spoon
Veteran
You say the split ACs suck CO2 out of your room? You're not using a mini-split system then, you mean some other portable? Huh?
 

dybert

Active member
You say the split ACs suck CO2 out of your room? You're not using a mini-split system then, you mean some other portable? Huh?

Exactly... a mini split simply recycles the air inside the room... nothing is sucked out at all.
 

Keyz

Member
I run 2 600's in a 4x8 tent and have now broken (or frozen the coil idk) 2 portable A/C's trying to keep this room cool. They were 10,000 and 13,000 BTUs and suck badly (weren't used at the same time...when one broke i got a new one lol). During the summer months I barely made it! Temps outside the tent are only 65-80 degrees (winter-summer). The lights are air cooled but only with 4" fans which are high speed but still are wimpy lol (bought the reflectors when I didn't know shit or else I would've got 6" ducting). The ducting is insulated also.

Anyway, I want to run CO2 but the split ACs suck the CO2 out of the room and cause the tent walls to suck in. This probably hurts the tent and my CO2 never gets to 1500 PPMs. I decided that a split AC would be a good idea and want to get one but I have a few questions:
-How many BTUs cooling/heating do I need? 20,000? Room was perfect temps at night but when the lights come on these things struggle hard to keep temps below 80. I want temps at 70! Id even settle at a higher temp with CO2 but I can't even run my CO2 generator at this point in time and it costs a lot for a fuzzy logic/electronic-start 2-burner CO2 generator! :wallbash:

Any help is much appreciated. What do you guys do? I want to get this CO2 pumpin!! THANKS

SS

If you're running CO2 you're gonna either want a DUAL hose Portable (Has an intake and exhaust that you can run outside the tent), or get a window AC and build an AC box around it (Look for Tutorial in the search). I had the same problem when I was using a single hose portable. I have an 8x4 tent and I use a 5000 btu window ac with a homemade AC box. That by itself brought my temps from over 100 to around 82 max.

You'll also want to ventilate so that your fans arent sucking the air. Run ducting from outside the tent, to your fans, through the lights, and then right back out the tent. As far as your carbon filter goes, duct it to a fan and recirculate it in the room....

1) Window AC or Dual Hose Portable
2) No air exhange within the actual room itself

Do that, and you won't have any negative pressure left; and you'll be able to keep your temps down without the AC sucking all your CO2 out
 

Dislexus

the shit spoon
Veteran
Yeah damn you need it bad. I wouldn't do the vaccuuming or bleeding trick I would spend the extra cash and get a model that comes with a preloaded lineset and you sir will be fuckin' set after that.
 

Keyz

Member
I run 2 600's in a 4x8 tent and have now broken (or frozen the coil idk) 2 portable A/C's trying to keep this room cool. They were 10,000 and 13,000 BTUs and suck badly (weren't used at the same time...when one broke i got a new one lol). During the summer months I barely made it! Temps outside the tent are only 65-80 degrees (winter-summer). The lights are air cooled but only with 4" fans which are high speed but still are wimpy lol (bought the reflectors when I didn't know shit or else I would've got 6" ducting). The ducting is insulated also.

Anyway, I want to run CO2 but the split ACs suck the CO2 out of the room and cause the tent walls to suck in. This probably hurts the tent and my CO2 never gets to 1500 PPMs. I decided that a split AC would be a good idea and want to get one but I have a few questions:
-How many BTUs cooling/heating do I need? 20,000? Room was perfect temps at night but when the lights come on these things struggle hard to keep temps below 80. I want temps at 70! Id even settle at a higher temp with CO2 but I can't even run my CO2 generator at this point in time and it costs a lot for a fuzzy logic/electronic-start 2-burner CO2 generator! :wallbash:

Any help is much appreciated. What do you guys do? I want to get this CO2 pumpin!! THANKS

SS

By the way man, theres no reason that a 10,000 or 13,000 shouldn't be able to cool a 8x4 space. I only run a 5, and that itself brought me down almost 20 degrees!!

Another thing to keep in mind, if you're gonna put your AC on a timer at all. Some of the newer models have digital buttons, so if you cut it on and the timer cuts it off then on, you'll have to go back in the room and cut it back on manually (which walking into your tent will also leak CO2.) Most of the window AC's have manual buttons and dials, so once you set it its set. That way, when the timer clicks back in, as long as the dials are in place, it will turn right back on.... yep, I learned that one, as well as all the problems you're seeing now.... THE HARD WAY lol

I solved this issue for myself about 3 months ago; so if you need me in detail to tell you how I got things going with the AC and CO2, then shoot me a PM and I'll see if I can help you out
 

Super.Seeds

Active member
ICMag Donor
Thank you for all of the replies!! I currently run 2 600's but might put in a 3rd if the tent doesn't cave in on itself! lol. So, 2-3 600s aircooled with 4" ducting and a 2 burner co2 generator (propane)....You think only 9k btu is enough cooling? I have my eye on the Mr. Slim Mini Split A/C systems (and yes I know a cool HVAC guy)...Some of these units are as high as 26 SEER which is supposedly super energy efficient? idk. What is an inverter and how will it save energy? Always looking to save on the electricity bill! :D Any more thoughts or input is much appreciated and thanks again!

SS
 
G

Guest 18340

Thank you for all of the replies!! I currently run 2 600's but might put in a 3rd if the tent doesn't cave in on itself! lol. So, 2-3 600s aircooled with 4" ducting and a 2 burner co2 generator (propane)....You think only 9k btu is enough cooling? I have my eye on the Mr. Slim Mini Split A/C systems (and yes I know a cool HVAC guy)...Some of these units are as high as 26 SEER which is supposedly super energy efficient? idk. What is an inverter and how will it save energy? Always looking to save on the electricity bill! :D Any more thoughts or input is much appreciated and thanks again!

SS
Co2 burners add a decent amount of heat, and since you're considering adding another 600 anyway, then i'd go with a 12k btu model.
Do a google search on mini splits with inverters, that'll give you a better explanation of what an inverter does than I can explain. But yes, models with inverters save you a lot of $$$ on your juice bill.
Imo, Mr.Slim's are thee best units made.
 

ChaosNyx

Member
The inverter controls the speed of your refrigerant compressor. The speed is governed by the room load. It runs the AC on a variable frequency drive.When all your lights are on "high load" it will run at full speed. Then it will ramp down to maintain the room temp. This saves a lot of off on cycles and there for $$$! With these units you will not need a timer.
 

bubbakush714

New member
Don't add co2 until you got your room dialed in. More co2 more heat = stunt, invest in bigger space or build a bigger room instead of tent. 4 in fan is too small should go with 8" at least.
 

Keyz

Member
Thank you for all of the replies!! I currently run 2 600's but might put in a 3rd if the tent doesn't cave in on itself! lol. So, 2-3 600s aircooled with 4" ducting and a 2 burner co2 generator (propane)....You think only 9k btu is enough cooling? I have my eye on the Mr. Slim Mini Split A/C systems (and yes I know a cool HVAC guy)...Some of these units are as high as 26 SEER which is supposedly super energy efficient? idk. What is an inverter and how will it save energy? Always looking to save on the electricity bill! :D Any more thoughts or input is much appreciated and thanks again!

SS


Ah, sorry bout that, didn't realize you were running a propane burner. Only 4 inch ducting? What size fan do you have cooling your lights?

I'm assuming you have a 4" fan, a 6 inch (say 435 cfm), probably would have helped keep those tempatures down a little too.

I wonder if getting another 4 inch fan and cooling them seperately would help too..... Then your AC is only battling your burner. You getting good air pressure at your tent exhaust?
 

Super.Seeds

Active member
ICMag Donor
My current setup has a 4" 265cfm (1/33rd HP) fan on one side of the lights pulling air from outside the tent into the the lights and another 4" 265cfm fan on the other side of the lights sucking the air out of the tent and to outside...Is this a good idea or not...I'm sure that 265+265 doesnt equal double power but does it help or hurt airflow? I'm willing to here some suggestions but its a pain in the butt to switch to 6" ducting because i would need both new fan(s), reflectors/tempered glass and ducting...fml

Thanks for all of your replies! More advice please! :joint:

SS
 

Super.Seeds

Active member
ICMag Donor
Ah, sorry bout that, didn't realize you were running a propane burner. Only 4 inch ducting? What size fan do you have cooling your lights?

2- 265cfm 4" squirrel cage fans-hydrofarm-one on either side of lights.

I'm assuming you have a 4" fan, a 6 inch (say 435 cfm), probably would have helped keep those tempatures down a little too.

I agree..You think 6" 435 cfm on one side of lights is enough for a 4x8 tent with 2 600's?

I wonder if getting another 4 inch fan and cooling them seperately would help too..... Then your AC is only battling your burner. You getting good air pressure at your tent exhaust?

Kinda what I'm doing now but idk if it's the proper way to do it....HELP!!

Thanks for the reply...After battling heat for years I'm finally sick of it....So much better bud when the temps are right! And easier purpling! I'm taking my time to hear what everyone has to say, about how they keep temps down in their tents, before I make any big decisions. So feel free to share your experiences...Both failures and successes. Thanks!

SS
 

Skunk Kid

Member
In the 10x10 i ran a while back with 2000 watts on movers, i kept around a 73-75 avg temp in my room and i did it with a 10,000 btu Lg AC and i ran my lights from 8pm-8am to take advantage of the cool night time temps and if i pushed the ac to the max i could get it to around 65 and without ac it was about 88-90, but you need to have allot of air running thru your lights. the best way to solve your problem would be just that I would get 2 6inch fans with 4inch reducers and try to keep the ducting as straight as possible to maximize air flow and then vent it out of the room as soon as you can and in a mid size tent like that i still would not run a burner unit to add co2 to the room the best way to add co2 to a tent is with 20-50lb tanks and a reg because with the burner unit in a small space like that your really adding allot of heat that you don’t need. It also helps to move the ballast's out of the room as well if you havent done so already, So I hope that helps
 

mg75

Member
did you consider switching your lighting?
maybe 4 400 Watt CMH bulbs? Better coverage and a lot less heat.
No hoods. Vertically hung. Water cooled CO2 generator?

I am having my own heat issues. Mini Splits are difficult in a tent. You will have to build some kind of a stand for it. CO2 in a tent is also tricky. Better off with bottled. You only need CO2 for about 6 weeks tops. No need for it at the very end when you flush.
 

mars_to_uranus

New member
Yeah damn you need it bad. I wouldn't do the vaccuuming or bleeding trick I would spend the extra cash and get a model that comes with a preloaded lineset and you sir will be fuckin' set after that.

What is a "preloaded lineset"? If it is what i'm thinking of, the lines will still need to be vacuumed.
 
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