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Pimp Your Soil !!!!

chris1985

Member
Think this is in the right section but i am going to double post it as to make sure its in the right section here you go guys!!!!!

What is a soil amendment?
A soil amendment is just stuff you add to soil- either a single ingredient or a blend to help combat micronutrient deficiencies, adjust PH, combat salts, introduce microbial activities and so much more. But hey, dont confuse soil amendments with with fertilisers - these add formulated food for the purpose of the plant, while soil amendments are used to treat the soil itself. However that said many soil amendments are also used in blended ferts and provide feeding nutrition.

Types of amendments
Soil amendments come in different forms, most are organic, which is preferable for your soils, some are considered "natural" which are derived naturally though not necessarily organic, and some are synthetic. Organic amendments as well as naturally derived amendments are the best way to change your soils from a dead clay to a living, symbiotic organism. The categories of amendments include: bark products, plant by products, manure based, compost and mulch based, and rocked and mineral powder based.

Do i need a soil amendment?
As a rule of the thumb, all soils love to be amended; the question actually lies in which amendment do you need? It is best to have your soil for Ph, micronutrient deficiencies, salt content and more before applying products that will alter the nutrient value of your soil. Just because lime is a great amendment, it does not necessarily mean that you need it. When selecting a soil amendment you look for how long the amendment will last in the soil depending on your growing season; the soil texture and salinity; the plants you are potting, and the salt and the pH content.

Which amendment?
Plant By Products

First lets look at the amendments that are made from plants:

Alfa Meal
Feeds with 3% Nitrogen and is known to contain growth factors and mineral content. Very common ingridient in many blended organic ferts.

Cottonseed Meal
Nitrogen super booster! (between 6-7%) Only "organic" if it was grown that way, most cotton farms use chemical foods and insectercides. So check your source. Cottonseed meal is also a very common ingredient in blended ferts.

Sphagnum Peat Moss
Great to add to to rough soils, and improves moisture retention.

Soybean Meal
Adds vital nitrogen to the soil. Usually one of the more expensive amendments, but very useful.

Wood Ash
Another soil softner. Adds essential Phosphate and potash. Can be a little high in pH (very alkaline) so go easy on it. Great to add to very acidic soils that are high in nitrogen.

Seaweed
Adds micronutrients and plant hormones! Derived from varieties of kelp harvested from the ocean then dried and ground into a powder form. Small amounts nitrogen, Phosphorous and potassium. Many forms include kelp extracts in which compounds are extracted from the seaweed to concentrate the micronutrients and other helpful plant hormones. They are not high enough to correct deficiencies but kelp provides plants and soils with a vitamin like effect.

Coconut Fibre
Great aerator. Excellent soil amendment or a standalone grow medium. Coconut not only provides great aeration but also efficient transfer of nutrients. Watch out for the source though as coconut can be very salty which can actually harm soils and also plants!

Animal By-Products
Earthworm castings
Clean, usually odourless and can be used on all soil and plants. Castings when concentrated are rich in nitrogenbut they will not burn plants. Castings vary but can contain magnesium, calcium, potassium, potash, micro nutrients and some trace elements. Grain fed castings tend to be the best and stay in the soil longer, while manure fed castings are a lower grade, but release their nutrients faster. More importantly, worm castings contain tons of beneficial organisms and microbes that help to restore soil life and begin recreating the soil web.

Phosphorous Bat Guanos
King of the Phosphorous amendments. crop sweetener. Not to be used for Nitrogen Bat Guanos which are more of a manure product, phosphorous bat guanos are ground up fossilized remains of bat crap. The Phosphorous releases slowly into the soil over time and contains beneficial microbes too.

Blood Meal
Use with caution or risk burning your plants. It's dried and ground waste from slaughterhouses, primarily steer, and is a strong source of nitrogen.

Bone Meal
Slow release. Another common ingredient in fertilizer mixes, and due to its high amounts of phosphorous, should be used with care like blood meal.

Feather Meal
Products of the poultry industry, the feathers are ground into a meal which contains levels of nitrogen which releases a bit slower than other nitrogen sources.

Fish Meal
Ground and dried fish waste, fish meal provides not only a good source of nitrogen, but phosphorous levels as well. Fish meal is not to be confused with fish emulsion, which is a liquid form of the fish waste products and less stable.

Oyster Shell Lime
Sometimes grouped with dolomite lime, however it is derived from the shells of finally ground oyster shells and not rock based like dolomite lime. Oyster shell lime will raise pH, add calcium, and many micro nutrients. The microbiat life inside of your soil loves oyster shell lime!

Shrimp, Crab, and sea meals
Ground waste products from sea going animals that are not fish. Their waste is primarily their shells and exoskeletons which provide and excellent source of major nutrients as well as many micro-nutrients. They break down slowly, thus providing some staying power.

Manure Based
Nitorgen Bat Guanos
Bat droppings that are fresher provide a great source of nitrogen. They contain some phosphorous, though not as high of levels as the folssilized bat guanos. Nitrogen bat guanos is considered to be the best of the manures as they are nutrient rich, but very stable.

Poultry Manure
Quick and dirty fix of nitrogen - releases very fast. One of the poorer quality manures, but effective if used quickly and properly treated. It can burn your plants, so it must be amended into the soil and watered in before planting. Fish meal is preferable as it is more stable and does not decompose as quickly.

Steer Manure
The farmers stinky favourite. Derived from steers and some equine. Very potent source of nitrogen and should be used truly to amend soils in preperation of planting. Best for large gardens and not small landscapes or containers. In bagged form, it is still very volatile and breaks down quickly.

Sewage sludge / Bio-solids
Very cheap, very dirty - derived from human waste and what ever else got flushed (including drugs wise lmao) such as traces of house hold chemicles bleaches and paints. It can contain many harmful pathogens and heavy metals. Not nice!

Compost Based
Compost
Derived from decayed plant matter such as your leftover vegetable scraps. Compost does include decaying animal matter as well, but for most gardeners it comes from vegetables and fruit scraps from your home.

Mulch
Plant and bark materials trhat are not fully decomposed. Aids moisture retention, decreases temperatures (protects from hot temps) weed reduction and more!

Rock and Mineral based
Rock Phosphate
Excellent, slow releasing form of phosphorous. Many sources have been mined deeply and contain levels of arsenic, so get it tested or check your manufactures MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet).

Hard Rock Phosphate
Derived From volcanic deposits and highly mineral in composition. The phosphate is not as available as in more traditional, soft rock phosphates, so it is not always the best amendment. However with its mineral qualities it can provide slow and steady mineral release into soils.

Greendsand
A clay type mineral supplement, greensand will provide potassium on a slow release schedule, it is very effective on improving soil structures though not as much as fertaliser.

Perlite
Volcanic Rock "rice crispies". Perlite is inert and provides drainage and aeration into compacted soils. perlite rises to the top when watered, so is not the best to add to in-ground plantings, though very important for containers and raised beds.

Vermiculite
Vermiculite is very light and can float in water. It is a great medium for starting seeds and amending salts as it contains some minerals and will help with aeration. perlite provides better results for drainage and aeration!

Dolomite Lime
Provides calcium, magnesium, and lowers pH quickly. It also helps with the breaking up of clay soils.

Humates
Derived from leonardite, humic and fulvic acids, humates help with the active part of soils humus. These goodies help with nutrient uptake by plants and assist under the soil too.

Words Originally by Heather Colburn just thought it might help some guys out!!!!
 

geopolitical

Vladimir Demikhov Fanboy
Veteran
You forgot the all important northern amendment. Moose poop. Comes free with large bites out of anything vaguely edible in a 10 mile radius.
 

gr0wm3

Member
a huge error here ... dolomite lime buffers ph at 7.0 and raises low soil ph, buffering around 7..... dyslexic much .... ? Might need to change that one lol. A small ammount of sulfur will lower ph over time, but takes a while to really manipulate soil ph.... obviously the usual phosphoric acid in a solution will lower soil ph may take a few days...... watch ec / ph of solution etc....
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
I just use half fine coco, half compost. Use a PK supplement when they start fruiting. I have never had any problems or use for "alfalfa meal".
 

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