first grow

[daromank42]

haha this is my fitst grow so idk too much about how long its all gonna go down lol. as of know i got once clonse of some s.d.c and some mystic gem. i jst want it to turn out good in the end cyase everone says dont cutre to ffast justtak eur time orr u well fuck ur buds i[

 

[Fat J]

They will tell you when they're ready, and yeah, dont overlove em. Less is almost always more when it comes to nute additives.

 

[Dankiam]

thanks for the tip fat j i got a scope on my trainwreck waiting for amberss

 

[coloradomedical]

Looks like you have a good grasp on things sir, keep up the good work.

And keep your thread bumpin

 

[daromank42]

so i got a new light its a abour 3 ft by 1 1/2 ft. t8 bulbs. also i got reflective wall paper to that ive put all aaround the inside. im having some bad over heating problmes ive got two small fans as of now running in there. dont get paid till the weekend so i cant do anything besides leave the door open to the veg box. does anyone have any options that could help with heat inside of the box? ill post pics up tonight so you can see what the light and box looks like also ill update the plants pics.

 

[Fat J]

intake fan on the bottom, use convection

 

[daromank42]

im going for stealth dont want it like outside of the box. i just leave it open when lights are on and its staying right arounf the 75 to 80 range

 

[Fat J]

Gotcha... just be careful, poor airflow can murder plants, and there are ways 2 put in stealth ventilation...

 

[someotherguy]

Fat J is right, air flow is essential, can you post up some
pics of the grow area, so we can maybe suggest some
stealthy ways to install some fannage?

btw, if you're broke, go dumpster divin', if you find
any trashed pc's you can usually pull 1 or 2 12volt
fans out of each.

peace, and stay safe, SOG

...oh yeah, here's a couple threads that are well
worth reading.

[URL="http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=112862"]Ventilation 101[/url]

[URL="http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=100823"]Understanding air flow[/url]

 

[daromank42]

here is an upsate of all the plants and the new steup in my veg box. got a new light its a 4 light panal i got the t8 daylight bulbs in there running. had it for about two days now so im just starting to calabrate the heat and the humidity in the room.



here is the setup and the lgiht i got. also it show the temp and the humd. little hot in there right now.



this is the jungle wreck bottom leaves are curiling up towards the stem ive been bending the stem back and forth to stengenth it up. plant is looking good also had a little overheating and over water problems.



this is the dumpster clone went to beg for about two weeks and seemed to not be very happy brought it back to veg and now its looking a lot more happy. ive got it tied down the other side let the internoads get out and make the plant a little more busher. also had went through some overwatering and some overheating.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=22472&pictureid=486671

This is the s.d.c clone looks really good also over watered and had some heat problems for a little but its starting to look better.

all spider mites seem to be gone havent used any neem oil in about week two weeks and havent seen one yet. plan to get some asmat in there asap already got the stuff just havent had the time to put it into action lol. so any tips let me know.

-one thing i do to keep the box cool for the time being is keeping the door open and when lights are on.
-also tired to put a cup of some ice water in there to keep the humidied up and also just test see if that had any effect on the temp change in the box.
-as of now im running 20/4 on the lighting and it seems to be good for the plants im thinkin about maybe going to 18/6 but idk waht i like best yet.

any tips just let me know. thanks

 

[Dankiam]

so excited to see what happens with these more updated pics commin up ready for the feedback

 

[daromank42]

update on plants in flower

update on plants in flower

As of now we have 4 pla nts in flower. were running a hps 400 watt. dankiam does all the flowering but i do all the pic posting so here it goes let me know what you all think about it so far for our first grow.

this is the dumpster just moved it from veg to flower 2 days ago. suffered some overheating and lil over wating in veg but should be lookin healthy here real soon.



this is mystic gem its about a week into flowering and is looking healthy and im getting good growth from it seems to be very happy.


this is the s.d.c. clone one we got i alsoe have one other clone in the veg



this is our very first plant its train wreck got it as a clone and its been our baby its about 3 weeks till it should be done in veg and ready to cut and dry.

cant wait to toke my own lol

let me know what yall think.

 

[Fat J]

Yo man ^.^ the Gem looks like a gem indeed, good n healthy. As to the others that look real stressed... I'd reccomend against putting any plant thats not 100% healthy into bloom. Yields will be signifigantly reduced, and once its in flower, it wont get much healthier - veg plants bounce back, flowering they just kinda fester. Try not 2 water until the pots are nice n light... also would reccomend giving plain water/weaker nutes to the ones that look stressed, let them perk back up some.

Aww cant see the TW pics. :-(

 

[daromank42]

what one do u feel look stressed?? the dumpster?? cuase i know it got over heated in veg twice cause i got a new light and wasnt able to control it as quick as it needed to be.

 

[Fat J]

Yeah, but u should always let them recover fully before flip, veg is when they will regrow veg matter...

 

[Dankiam]

thanks for the info ill lighten up on the nuets and let em dry out

 

[daromank42]

yeah thansk a lot on the tips! i read up about what ur saying thanks man.

how do u think the tw is looking its our first plant and our first buds lol?

 

[danimarie193]

How long has that TW been flowering?

 

[someotherguy]

how do you keep the plants from stretching

mornin' guys, in lookin' at the pics above i noticed that
you have what looks like mylar or foil on the walls, if so
that COULD be contributing to your heat problem, can't
be sure but with stuff like that you have a potential for
hotspots with every wrinkle, plus, that shit is a pain to
keep clean, especially over time.

anyway, here is some info on reflectivity and some other
options you might consider, myself, all my cabs are painted
with the Elastomeric paint as it is highly reflective,
cheap at $15.00 a gallon, waterproof so easy to clean and
it is also mold and mildew resistant.

and btw, Fat J is giving you some good advice, i second
everything he has said.

peace, and stay safe, SOG

[FONT=Verdana, sans-serif]
Foylon:

A more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate. Foylon is resistant to most solutions, won't tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.

A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost. It has the ability to reflect about 95% of the light and approximately 85% of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in conjunction with folyon.

A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier nd reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it. If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.

Mylar:

A highly reflective polyester film that comes in varying thickness, the most common being 1 and 2 mm thick. The 2mm thick mylar while not quite as durable as the foylon, is fairly rugged. The 1mm thick mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is quite difficult without damaging it in the process. Both types of mylar are able to reflect approximately 92-97% reflective, giving it the potential to be more reflective than foylon, but because foylon is more easily cleaned without damaging it as well as it being harder to crease, foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective. Important to note is that mylar reflects radiant heat energy just as well as foylon (around 85%), so proper ventilation is necessary if mylar is used in your grow room. Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. The 1mm thick mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls.

C3 anti-detection film:

A specialized type of mylar that exhibits the same properties as the 2mm thick mylar, but in addition to reflecting approximately 92-97% of the light, it also is 90% infrared proof, making your grow room all but invisible to IR scanning. This can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

Flat white paint:

Self explanatory; a great option for large grow rooms or for people who are interested in a low maintenance wall. Flat white paint has the ability to reflect between 75-85% of the light, and does not create hotspots. Adding a fungicide is recommended when painting.

Glossy and eggshell whites not reflect light as efficiently as flat white. Semi-gloss paint for example, only has the ability to reflect between 55-60% of the light. Also important to remember when using paint is that any smears or blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is so care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls. Titanium white paint is very reflective; however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its high cost.

[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, sans-serif]Elastomeric paint (info by furun)

A rubberized roofing paint with 90% reflection. Good for growboxes. Mildew resistant. Highly reflective.

Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating ~ $15.00 (1 Gallon)

Ultra high reflectivity
Forms a rubber-like blanket that expands and contracts
Adheres to almost any surface (very good on wood and metal)
Available @ [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, sans-serif]Lowe's Home Improvement: Buy Kitchen Cabinets, Paint, Appliances & Flooring[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, sans-serif]

White/Black plastic (also known as panda plastic or "poly"):

"Poly" is useful if you are setting up a temporary grow room or don’t want to damage the walls. Poly is easily cleaned.

The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark. The white side is 75-90% reflective. Choose a 6 "mill" thickness of poly for maximum light blockage and duribility.

If this plastic is put too close to the light, you will obviously melt it so be careful!. Panda plastic does not create hotspots. Poly can be attached to the walls by using carpenter’s nails or using tape glue or similar means. This can be used as a cheap alternative to mylar if painting your grow room is out of the question.

Polystyrene Foam Sheeting (more commonly known as Styrofoam):

This is excellent for harsh environment growrooms (your attic for example), provided you have a good ventilation system and a way to keep the temperatures from rising too high (an a/c unit or similar) as it is an excellent insulator.

It is also a great material for use in a temporary setup or for use as a "travelling reflector" on a light mover, where weight is a concern. It is approximately 75-85% light reflective so it is comparable to using a flat white paint. Foam will not create hot spots. Rigid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a free standing wall or can be taped, glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally being the most successful method.

Emergency Blankets:

These are ultra thin polyester blankets that are sold in most camping stores and are constructed of a single layer of polyester film that is covered with a layer of vapor deposited aluminum.

It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin. Holding it between you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with, this coupled with the many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant amount of it reflectivity. It is very easily creased as well which also detracts from its ability to reflect light. And while it is reflects nearly 90% of radiant heat energy, it is only able to reflect around 70% of the light.

The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is very cheap and therefore easily replaced. Emergency blankets can create hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps exist between it and your supporting wall. The easiest way to attach this is to use tape (Aluminum or metal tape is recommended), as it tears very easily once it is cut or punctured.

Aluminum Foil:
Aluminum foil is no more than 55% reflective - if used, make sure that the dull side is the one that is used to reflect the light. When it becomes creased its reflectivity is even lower (around 35%.) It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting. Attaching this to walls is a pain and usually using aluminum tape or glue is the best way. This should only be used as a last resort, and even then its usefulness is questionable.[/FONT]

 

[Dankiam]

How long has that TW been flowering?

3 wks today still needs about 4-5 is that around right cuz i heard that strain can flower up to 100 days +