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Couple Quick Wash Oil Questions

MedResearcher

Member
Veteran
Trying to perfect my quick wash oil techniques. Got two questions for the pro's, or anyone who has input.

Question 1:

Most people use a double boiler to purge the oil, why cant you just use a hot plate? I have been using a large pyrex boil directly on top of a hot plate set at medium and monitored, is this ok?


Question 2:

How can you tell when it is 100% purged? I have been experimenting with Denatured Alcohol and recently Acetone, I hope to believe they don't leave residue when purged, but I want to be 100% sure its 100% purged.



Thanks for the input. Also shortly I will share my technique and materials used for a larger scale quick wash.

Mr^^
 

dingbat

Member
Hot plate is fine. As for the purge, smell it as cloase as you can without getting your face sticky. If you do not dectect any alcohol smell move on to taste testing :D. Taste is easiest way to tell that it is purge. Can be risky if you really dont know what your are doing or have a shitty sense of smell. This method has worked every time for me since i figured out what i was doing.
 

dope_roor

Member
double boiling has its advantages because the temperature will never really exceed 100*C, although even this may be too high of a temp

i find that most hot plates get too hot and you end up with dark oil with less flavor. i recently witnessed an individual using a heating pad for sore joints with good success, although i could observe a little heat degradation
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Trying to perfect my quick wash oil techniques. Got two questions for the pro's, or anyone who has input.

Question 1:

Most people use a double boiler to purge the oil, why cant you just use a hot plate? I have been using a large pyrex boil directly on top of a hot plate set at medium and monitored, is this ok?


Question 2:

How can you tell when it is 100% purged? I have been experimenting with Denatured Alcohol and recently Acetone, I hope to believe they don't leave residue when purged, but I want to be 100% sure its 100% purged.



Thanks for the input. Also shortly I will share my technique and materials used for a larger scale quick wash.

Mr^^

The reason for using a double boiller is that electric heating devices don't just move up to the set temperature and hold there. The elements turn on and locally get hotter than set point before turning off again, and rely on their mass to even out the temperature. Using a double boiler eliminates those local hot spots that burn the material.

At low purge temperatures, that is less of an issue than if you are decarboxylating, so either way should work.

If I am doing a low temperature purge, taste and smell are how I tell. Once I crank the temperature up high enough to decarboxylate, I can tell by sight as well, because the bubbling activity falls off and changes to minute C02 bubbles.

I have yet to try acetone, but if you use denatured alcohol, if you will redissolve the oil in 190 proof and let that sit in the freezer for a bit, a lot of the undesireable constituets will precipitate out. You can then decant and filter it for a much cleaner extract.
 

Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Veteran
Hey Grey Wolf, I'm interested in hearing more about freezing the solution and precipitates, assuming I can fit a clear container into my freezer, I would imagine some plant waxes or the like would precipitate out and settle to the bottom?

I've noticed when I use anything but denatured alcohol, the remaining water (in room temp 190 proof or 90% ISO) will pick up a lot of plant color and tastes, and float to the top of an evaporating pan. I see less of this with frozen alcohols to be sure, but none with SLX denatured. Any input appreciated!

Thanks
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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Hey Grey Wolf, I'm interested in hearing more about freezing the solution and precipitates, assuming I can fit a clear container into my freezer, I would imagine some plant waxes or the like would precipitate out and settle to the bottom?

I've noticed when I use anything but denatured alcohol, the remaining water (in room temp 190 proof or 90% ISO) will pick up a lot of plant color and tastes, and float to the top of an evaporating pan. I see less of this with frozen alcohols to be sure, but none with SLX denatured. Any input appreciated!

Thanks

You're welcome!

SLX Denatured alcohol is a mix of methyl and ethyl alcohols, with methyl Isobutyl keytone added.

Methanol extracts different constituets than ethanol, as does MIK, as does water, so if you first purge out the denatured and then redissolve the mixture in 190 proof ethanol while hot, a goodly amount of dark green material will precipitate out when you subsequently stick it in the freezer. Or even if you just set it on the shelf at ambient, as far as that goes.

Chilling also clumps some of the waxes together, so that if you decant without disturbing the sediment and then filter your solution, you should end up with some pretty oil.

I have only used denatured to make topical and I cook it in a 250F oil bath to decarboxylate it, before redissolving it in Everclear.

The two alcohols are long gone before the solution will reach those temperatures, but as you are no doubt aware, methyl isobutyl ketone MSDS, has a boiling point of 240F, so it takes a little longer to boil it off.

As the MSDS shows it irritating to tissue, I cook it until the pool is quiescent, before adding the Everclear and redissolving the oil while still hot.

I use the extra ethanol clean up step on topicals to get rid of all the non active residue that stains the skin and clothes green.

Another way I've cleaned it up is to evaporate down the alcohol to a manageble volume and then mix it with equal parts of saturated salt water and hexane. I shake it up well and then put it in a separatory funnel to separate at ambient.

The cannabinoids end up dissolved in the hexane floating on top and the water solubles like chloraphyll are left behind in the water alcohol mixture. I bleed off the bottom portion and evaporate off the hexane, to produce some gorgeous oil.

I still redissolve it in 190 proof Everclear and cook that off, because that removes any residual hexane quickly, instead of requiring a lengthy purge.
 

Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Veteran
Thanks a bunch, I've learned a lot of chemistry from you. I rarely see chlorophyll components with the frozen alcohols, but with room temp alcohols I get dark green solutions in 2 minutes. Will certainly try the post wash decanting and freezing tho! Have you tried using fresh material or even baking material before washes?
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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I've butane extracted fresh material but not with alcohol. You might pick Jump's brain on that subject.

I've also baked dry material, but get more consistent results just decarboxylating the oil later and it isn't as smelly.
 
Its been a while, a longf while, but here goes.
this method we used to make oil yrs ago, we just grew bagseed and cut it all down in the fall and hung it to dry.
We then took the crumbled plant material and heated it slightly in a 5gal pail of 90% methel alcohol. after it was strained thru coffee filters it was added to container of water. then that was heated to boil off the alcohol. after the smell was gone it was cooled and had pure naptha gas added and mixed thoroughly and violently, then the whole pail(s) were put in the freezer til the water was hard. the liquids were poured off the ice and strrained. then it was put in a double boiler and evaporated, if you had the temps proper (I dont remember which liquid and what tempand step of the process besides not the first step) the oil was a beautiful honey that was a 1 toke floor ya oil.
I tried making some last yr but its hard to find pure naptha, I tried using a campstove fuel, but it had waxes? or some lubricant or something and the oil was unsmokable. If you can find pure naptha I'd suggest giving this method a try. play with the amounts to fit your needs and have fun picking yourself off the floor if you take 2 hits.
 
the water filters off 99% of any contaniments, the alcohol gets the most resins off the plants, and the naptha gets the oils out of the water.
anyone use this or simular processes?
 
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