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Frost protection..What's best method?

feenom

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plhkarma

Member
Once again...Thank You all for the suggestions:tiphat::thank you:

Our biggest prob with tarps and blankets etc. is that once the foilage of surrounding vegitation is gone they would become visible to the workers and engineers of the trains that go by,(sometimes slowly or stopped for switching).
The liquid fence sounds the most promising at this point for our situation. We thankfully don't have hunters to worry about.
We for sure will look into other strains more suited to our climate here. These were bagseed so who knows...they were all from local outdoor so perhaps they will hold up ok.
My hubby is from Colorado and we are seriously considering moving there. He's disabled and we would have no problem becoming "legal". Sure would be alot less stressful.

:plant grow:


Peace, Love and Harmony
 
Once again...Thank You all for the suggestions:tiphat::thank you:

Our biggest prob with tarps and blankets etc. is that once the foilage of surrounding vegitation is gone they would become visible to the workers and engineers of the trains that go by,(sometimes slowly or stopped for switching).
The liquid fence sounds the most promising at this point for our situation. We thankfully don't have hunters to worry about.
We for sure will look into other strains more suited to our climate here. These were bagseed so who knows...they were all from local outdoor so perhaps they will hold up ok.
My hubby is from Colorado and we are seriously considering moving there. He's disabled and we would have no problem becoming "legal". Sure would be alot less stressful.


Peace, Love and Harmony

Good plan on all acounts gf
Colorado is a good place to be legal and will be much less stressful for all concerned.
My best of luck to you and yours

:plant grow:
 

plhkarma

Member
Good plan on all acounts gf
Colorado is a good place to be legal and will be much less stressful for all concerned.
My best of luck to you and yours

:plant grow:
Thank you for your kind words:thank you: Do you think it would be worthwhile to start a thread about the liquid fence? Perhaps there are folks that have given it a try. This site has so many kind people that are willing to help. :)


:plant grow:



Peace, Love and Harmony
 
Thank you for your kind words:thank you: Do you think it would be worthwhile to start a thread about the liquid fence? Perhaps there are folks that have given it a try. This site has so many kind people that are willing to help. :)




:plant grow:



Peace, Love and Harmony

You're welcome.
I think you did a 'fine' job with the thread you created so anyone with the same type of situation, I'm sure will find it.
Sharing ideas like this in almost real time is why sites like this are so valuble.
Its a great thread on its own
But just my opinion.:cathug:
 

plhkarma

Member
You're welcome.
I think you did a 'fine' job with the thread you created so anyone with the same type of situation, I'm sure will find it.
Sharing ideas like this in almost real time is why sites like this are so valuble.
Its a great thread on its own
But just my opinion.:cathug:

Thanks straintester, I find your opinion to be quite valuable:tiphat:
Will be good to hear other's experience with the Liquid Fence:)
 
i use the liquid fence for deer and rabbits. the place i have my stuff planted was basically a den for the deer but with one application they never eat my shit. seems to be a pretty legit company
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
phlkarma

I can only speak for myself but I would love to hear how this frost protection works. There is nothing better than anecdotal evidence. PLEASE keep this thread open and show us the results including pics of the application and how it affected the plant in general. Big help for northern guerillas and much appreciated.
 
yeah, i'm pretty pumped to try this stuff, i already use safer brand fungicide for my black spot mold now but i know i'm gonna get the PM in october
 

Kushed

Member
What do I need to be concerned with when it frosts? I dont want to cut the plants early if they can still recover, I live at a very high elevation above 6000ft and generally its nice during the day but temps drop at night, should I be very concerned if temps dont reach below 30?
 
What do I need to be concerned with when it frosts? I dont want to cut the plants early if they can still recover, I live at a very high elevation above 6000ft and generally its nice during the day but temps drop at night, should I be very concerned if temps dont reach below 30?
You need to read the following and pay heed to it.
Frosts can be damaging to your plant so if it is possible to cover it up safetly, then you might want to do so.
They can handle the cold weather but it does degrade the plant to some degree.
Give liquid fence a try.
The thing you have to be paticularly careful of is if and when these branches freeze, they hold in a lot of moisture which can literally rot your buds(Botrytis)
Don't worry too much as there isn't much you can do about the weather.
Shake off excess liquid and let buds dry out well before hanging to dry
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
One of my biggest questions with this product from manufactures of liquid fence is mold. If you are coating your bud to protect it from frost my initial thought is you are also holding in moisture.
Just a thought but experience will tell.
 

DocLeaf

procreationist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Painting flowers with anything is out of the question if you intend to consume them later!!

Please...any advice will be so appreciated :thank you:
Peace, Love and Harmony


Hi :wave:

There are several ways that you can help raise/maintain soil temps now before winter. These include:

- applying a dark rich compost or matured manure to the top soil.

- cover the top soil with black plastic sheeting which radiates heat... some of which is transferred into the ground.

- remove any stones or rocks from the top layer of soil. which hold the cold in winter.

Above ground we can consider:

- bubble-wrap (the stuff that pops) round the base of the plants will prevent wind and help insulate the main stems. (we use this method around plant pots when over-wintering peppers).

- erect a rain shelter (see Growdoc's album) which helps prevent cold borealis (the north wind),, rain ,, ground frost, and snowfall into winter.

- erect a wicker fence on the side of the prevailing wind. (ideally plant this up now as a hedge for next season). a warm hedge that will help trap the mid-day sun and prevent ground frosts from settling on the soil.

Remember there are lots of NATURAL ways to help improve the micro-climate of a garden ,, without using chemicals or concrete.

Hope this helps
 
This is excellent info for the home gardener or a place where this will not be detected but in plhkarmas case, she is trying to be discreet since they can easily be spotted. Many of these you are suggesting will only attract more attention to the fact that it is unnatural looking. Being a natrue lover it not difficult spotting a piece of plastic glimmering in the sunlight; not to mention the noise it can produce if and when the wind gets it flapping. The thing is these very spots in nature are usually clear of obstacles so light and sound have nothing to reflect off of. Nothing to absorb it so it becomes extremely noticeable in the silence of nature.
Compost or anything added that is even a different colour can be noticed easily since it sticks out like a sore thumb from all the other stuff.
Even the suggestion of adding hay around one side to absorb the excess water(which someone else suggested) is a great one.
I saw this inexpensive passive solar way of sheltering plants using this method. The hay stacks are used as a northern wall to insulate and absorb excess moisture where the south end is open to the max sunlight. Great concept if you can use it.
If you have your plants in pots it is also best to cover them in burlap or something so frost doesn't land on the root system. Good point.
I've never used chemicals on any of my plants but if there is a product are there that is biodegrable and safe for use that works, I'd be willing to at least try it on one or two just to see if it works.
The only thing I wonder about is that it says it is for fruits and such. These types of things can be washed off before eating so I am wondering how it biodegrades and how long it takes.
 

plhkarma

Member
phlkarma

I can only speak for myself but I would love to hear how this frost protection works. There is nothing better than anecdotal evidence. PLEASE keep this thread open and show us the results including pics of the application and how it affected the plant in general. Big help for northern guerillas and much appreciated.

Will do. Liquidfence freeze pruf seems to be the best option for our situation. We hesitate only because we can't find any comments from anyone who has tried it yet. If we use it we will for sure post pics etc. and let you all know how it works :)


Thanks to all of you for your ideas and feedback:thank you:
 

Jaymer

Back-9-Guerrilla☠
Veteran
At first I thought there's no way a room temp liquid can help frostbite and then I thought about being drunk in the wintertime and not minding the cold so much.

I don't know if that's how it works though : ) it looks like its meant to keep animals away....?

I once saw a science experiment on tv where two chess games took place in arctic temperatures. The first game showed temps dropping rapidly, hypothermia setting in as well as stress from the cold temperatures causing loss of focus. The second game was played with the scientist wearing heated gloves allowing higher body temps less shivering and proved the game to go on much longer with less distraction. Testing out some kind of heating element around the rootstock might show a benefit of preventing frostbite.

TO MAKE YOUR OWN HAND WARMER YOU WILL NEED:

2 sealable plastic bags (approximately 4 inches square)
1/2 ounce (14 grams) powdered lime (calcium oxide)
2 tsp. (10 cc's) of tap water
a teaspoon
a plastic pipette or eye dropper
a bucket of cold water

Before you try the following experiment, make sure that you are wearing protective glasses and latex or rubber gloves. Do NOT handle these chemicals with your bare hands. Don't use a nylon apron or gloves.

NOTE: Be careful! When mixing the contents you may find they become so hot that they can cause serious burns. we found that so much heat was generated that some of the plastic bags actually melted. If this happens when you try the experiment, drop the bags into a bucket of cold water and dispose of the resulting solution by flushing it down the toilet. Be sure to wash your hands immediately and thoroughly in lots of cold running water.

Take a small, self-sealing plastic bag and put it inside another bag of the same type and size. Using the teaspoon, carefully add the half ounce (14 grams) of powdered lime to the inner bag, and use the pipette or eye-dropper to add about 2 teaspoons (10 cc's) of tap water. Seal both bags securely, and mix the contents together by carefully manipulating the powder and the water with your fingers. After a few seconds, you will notice that the temperature of the hand warmer starts to rise dramatically.
 

biteme

Member
i tend to agree with dstoker,md and hamstring on this issue. in covering plants in the past for frost protection, for the most part the covering caused more damage than the frost itself. plants nearing maturity usually can handle light frosts if followed by warmer days but when temps hit those low 20s your season is over.

a partner and i are discussing some haze hybs that will be late so we are constructing a tarp on poles so it will not touch the plant but this unit certainly will not stand up in wind. usually those first frost evenings are clear and calm, we hope? peace-biteme
 

Grat3fulh3ad

The Voice of Reason
Veteran
Farmers of cold sensitive fruit will usually simply mist their field/orchards with water and the resulting coating of ice insulates the fruits from the damaging effects of frost.
 
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