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soil remineralization: process and discussion

J

*Journeyman*

Jay - if you ever fiddle with an ormus project you can contact Acme Labs in Canada and they will do a 72 element analysis for like $45 using atomic absorption. Only problem I think is they might have a minimum requirement for the number of tests or something like that. Just checked and yeah +$50 if sending less than 20 samples. They, or any decent lab, can tell you exactly what the stuff is you might make. Would be interesting.
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
since you bumped this, i just gave all my plants a dose of my own "glacial milk" the rock powders were collected at 12,000 ft in the sierra nevadas. im sure they will LOVE it :)
 
S

schwagg

i read the whole thread today and put two things together. a local river i fish is always milky/cloudy looking. come to find out, it's glacial fed. time to load the five gallon jugs and take a little trip!!

and what's the difference between lignite and langbenite?
 

guest2012y

Living with the soil
Veteran
Recently found layers of glacial sediment in between lava flows. There was clearly periods of melting,freezing,and volcanic activity. Picked up about 5 gallons of glacial rock dust in between these layers where a fault line had thrust up at about 9000 feet.
 
Y

Yankee Grower

OFC!

but really, langbenite(sp) vs lignite.
Langbeinite is commonly known as K-Mag otherwise known as Sul-Po-Mag but really it's 0-0-22 which is 27% sulphur, 22% potash and about 18% magnesium oxide or about 11% magnesium otherwise known as potassium magnesium sulfate or double sulfate of potash and the chemical 'formula' is K2SO4-2MgSO4 or something like that. It rocks when used at a low % of a global mix and better in concentrated zones down low in the pot or hole. It takes a few weeks to become available. A great K source and since a salt really not good to load up on globally.

Lignite is basically the source material they get fulvic and humic acids from...think coal...kind of. Very different from K-Mag....not even close.
 
S

schwagg

yankee grower.... my hats off to you for that awesome answer! brown coal baby! i have the kmag too but not too sure on how to supplement with it. i'm in no rush to toss it here or there but just trying to figure out what i have sittin in my hands and soil.

thank you

now what about lignite. what are your uses for it. do you use it? i have a decent soil that i top dressed with lignite and glacial rock dust. not much but half a spoon of each.
 
Y

Yankee Grower

now what about lignite. what are your uses for it. do you use it? i have a decent soil that i top dressed with lignite and glacial rock dust. not much but half a spoon of each.
This is a bit off topic for this thread but...if you're composting and have a lot of humus in your mix or stuff converting to humus through the cycle you don't really need any lignite. It does add value though but in a enviro strongly dependent on composting and tons of organic matter I think your $ would be better spent elsewhere. I can easily see something like whole lignite working well in a sandy soil. If you do use lignite particle size is really important. I have talked to farm consultants who use a whole product that outperforms humic extracts and mainly about the starting particle size :). When you get down to about 1 micron it really kicks ass and starts acting immediately.
 

guest2012y

Living with the soil
Veteran
I've recently made an ACT tea for the outties and incorporated sul-pul-mag according to CC and others. Can't hurt to get some sulphur in that action. Not sure what effect it has with the multiplication of beneficials in the tea,but the tea smelled normal before use.
 
Y

Yankee Grower

Can't hurt to get some sulphur in that action.
Not sure really how that would work in a tea but ya need sulphur. Some will say sulphur is in great part responsible for weed's dankness. Gypsum is a good sulphur source but can't speak on plant type amendment sources.
 

idiit

Active member
Veteran
question of sulphur

question of sulphur

Not sure really how that would work in a tea but ya need sulphur. Some will say sulphur is in great part responsible for weed's dankness. Gypsum is a good sulphur source but can't speak on plant type amendment sources.
when people on the canna forums talk about adding molasses they often remind us to use non sulphur types ie blackstrap or equivallent.seems that sulfur/sulphur is bad for some benne microorganisms. so i'm asking for clarification. thanks.
 
Last night I put a 1/2 teaspoon of glacial rock dust in a .5 liter bottle of water just to see how much would stay in suspension.

12 hours later and very little had settled to the bottom so I gave the "glacial milk" to my potatoes this morinig and mixed more for them. Is there any advantage here over a simple top dress when late in the season?
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
So the cows drink the glacial runoff and then we milk 'em? Can we bottle it and store it for later use or will it go bad? I guess this qualifies as off topic huh.........
Nice to see ya' around Clack....started wondering how you're doing.
Capt

A lot of hospital time as things are turning out. Not much time for playing around with soil biology as things are turning out.

Still I have the ability to post - probably a lost cause in the whole scheme of things what with my predisposition against 'flushing with molasses' or other nonsense, eh?

BTW - an extended experiment running a soil amendment pushed down to <3.0 pH has proven to be interesting if nothing else.

I took my seed meal and fermented it to the uber-low pH levels as noted to see what impact, if any, this level of acidity would have for the overall health of a plant - guess what? The plant(s) thrived and advanced better than expected using straight seed meals.

Is it important? Hardly - just the musings of an old man searching for some answers as pH relates to a plant's overall health.

HTH

CC
 
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