The point JF, is that they can be saved, returned to robust health, and will grow and yield as well as any plant, and I say that having done it over and over, I ain't talking out my ass here. It is good to add skills to your skill set, tools to use for sucessful growing. Rrot is a part of life, learn to deal with it properly, and it is not a constant problem.
DWC root rot? plz help
- Thread starter blank85
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El Toker
Member
As pointed out earlier, with root rot you expect the pH to fall sharply.
It was going up to 8 because there were no nutrient buffers in the solution.
The whole point of keeping the pH below 6.5 is to allow the uptake of nutrients.
If there are no nutrients in the solution the pH doesn't matter.
It's unlikely that pythium would thrive in tap water.
You should start feeding clones as soon as they start to show roots.
The green stuff is algae and will only grow if you have light going into your reservoir. Roots don't like light. Algae will eat all your nutrient.
If you have a failing plant, your best bet is to keep it in the same medium and minimise the trauma to the roots. Any jostling of the roots will result in the loss of thousands of microscopic root hairs damaging the plant even further.
I know you've said that you haven't got access to seeds or more cuttings, but the reality is, looking at those cuttings, I'd be surprised if one in six of them make it. You've lost a potential harvest but you'll probably get at least one decent mother out of them. You'll learn a lot about the plant keeping it alive and in your situation you don't have any choice but to try to nurse them back to health.
Good luck
It was going up to 8 because there were no nutrient buffers in the solution.
The whole point of keeping the pH below 6.5 is to allow the uptake of nutrients.
If there are no nutrients in the solution the pH doesn't matter.
It's unlikely that pythium would thrive in tap water.
You should start feeding clones as soon as they start to show roots.
The green stuff is algae and will only grow if you have light going into your reservoir. Roots don't like light. Algae will eat all your nutrient.
If you have a failing plant, your best bet is to keep it in the same medium and minimise the trauma to the roots. Any jostling of the roots will result in the loss of thousands of microscopic root hairs damaging the plant even further.
I know you've said that you haven't got access to seeds or more cuttings, but the reality is, looking at those cuttings, I'd be surprised if one in six of them make it. You've lost a potential harvest but you'll probably get at least one decent mother out of them. You'll learn a lot about the plant keeping it alive and in your situation you don't have any choice but to try to nurse them back to health.
Good luck
Exactly what I said. Pythium makes pH drop sharply. OPs pH is rising because there is no nutrients to buffer it. Glad someone is tracking that.
OP - some people might think this is crazy, but what I have done in the past and what i tell others to do with clones that small when they are having root problems is to cut them off again and put them back in a bubble cloner. literally just cut the entire above ground portion of those tiny little plants of (like you are just using the whole thing for a clone) and stick it back in the bubble cloner. Then when they root again (and they will...) you can throw them right back in your cleaned and lightproofed hydro setup. just my 2 cents....
The point is, learning how to prevent root rot is the only skill a grower needs when it comes to rot, or rather the only skill they should need.
blank85
Member
There were nutrients in the water, i used rain water that started at ph6.8 and 40 ppm and nuted it to 100ppm and ph 6. I failed to mention that i added nutes,my apologies.
And yes they had nutes from when they had roots.
I have another bubbler with the same water and same nutes and the ph is constant.
Only difference is it was light proofed properly, i assume thats why i had green stuff growing on the bottom of the tubs.
This is my second grow and im learning alot, thanks for all the replies.
Im gonna go check if the plants have improved at all.
Thanks for encouraging me haps, its just not in my nature to give up immediately. But if they dont look saved within the next week i will start again. Have already ordered seeds for that possibility.
And yes they had nutes from when they had roots.
I have another bubbler with the same water and same nutes and the ph is constant.
Only difference is it was light proofed properly, i assume thats why i had green stuff growing on the bottom of the tubs.
This is my second grow and im learning alot, thanks for all the replies.
Im gonna go check if the plants have improved at all.
Thanks for encouraging me haps, its just not in my nature to give up immediately. But if they dont look saved within the next week i will start again. Have already ordered seeds for that possibility.
Numboard
Member
Learning how to prevent rrot is definitely essential. Recovering from rrot is also essential. Stop being so condescending. You can recover from root rot.
It's about time management.
ozone, ozone and cool rez temps, if you can find a tiny ozone genarator of 1000-3000mg that you can turn up or down that would be cheep and 100% kill all and i mean all the shit in you rez 100% in your tank,
450ltr dwc,....
aero is best, on off pump times and have no roots in the juice man,
add this to co2 and take off...
450ltr dwc,....
aero is best, on off pump times and have no roots in the juice man,add this to co2 and take off...
The End Is Near
Member
Glad they're okay. But as someone who's fucked up a few DWC grows, don't give up on it because DWC yields like a motherfucker. The only thing I see you doing wrong is using rainwater. Just use tap because it has minerals that help keep ph balance. And don't get fancy with the h202 or preventative additives. All you need is 8ml Flora Micro and 16 ml Flora bloom per gallon of tap water. Also, a few more tips from past fuckups:
-Lightproofing is important. Do your best to make sure no light hits the res, or you'll get rot.
-Make sure 75% of the rootmass is above water, or they'll start to drown/wilt. Never fully submerge roots.
-Never use rainwater. It's ph can vary and it might have algae, leading to oxygen depletion and rot.
-Always use ventilation. DWC plants can take upwards of 90 degrees F, but will get root rot at around 100F. Don't know what that is in C.
-Lightproofing is important. Do your best to make sure no light hits the res, or you'll get rot.
-Make sure 75% of the rootmass is above water, or they'll start to drown/wilt. Never fully submerge roots.
-Never use rainwater. It's ph can vary and it might have algae, leading to oxygen depletion and rot.
-Always use ventilation. DWC plants can take upwards of 90 degrees F, but will get root rot at around 100F. Don't know what that is in C.
with lucas i would use r/o water, just suppliment with a little cal mag and make sure your ph doesnt go over6.0- otherwise you start locking out mag.
dwc is the way to go in hydro. easy, very effective, and forgiving. lucas formula is 8ml of gh micro and 16ml of flora, throw in some cal mag, watch your ph, because that is a direct correlation of the nute strenth in the res. ph raising means the plant is using more nutes than water, ph dropping means its using less. try to avoid ph up and down; its bad bad stuff. instead, balance out the ph with more or less nutes- that simple.
as far as res temps, anything within 70-95 will get you by. by no means is higher temps a death wish for roots; ive actually had more problems with cold than heat. as long as you dont alter the water chemistry too much with additives, which are a complete rip off aside from pk14 and you dont need cause tehy dont do jack shit, root rot wont ever be a concern.
right now im testing the boundaries of what roots will take, have 10plants in a open container with no aeration or cover- my roots are taking full light and covered in algae, but the they look fucking fantastic as do the plants. and guess what? even with temps at 72f no light and 88f with the light on...
no root rot.
lol, i need to post a pic cause its fucking hilarious considering all i do is pour my lucas formula into the container and monitor the ph once a day. kinda wish i did a side by side comparison with the open container vs a closed one with aeration, just to see the difference. i will attest that aeration helps, but even that is not a necessity. everytime i see all the algae and debris floating around, i like to call it my own chemical bio bucket.
dwc is the way to go in hydro. easy, very effective, and forgiving. lucas formula is 8ml of gh micro and 16ml of flora, throw in some cal mag, watch your ph, because that is a direct correlation of the nute strenth in the res. ph raising means the plant is using more nutes than water, ph dropping means its using less. try to avoid ph up and down; its bad bad stuff. instead, balance out the ph with more or less nutes- that simple.
as far as res temps, anything within 70-95 will get you by. by no means is higher temps a death wish for roots; ive actually had more problems with cold than heat. as long as you dont alter the water chemistry too much with additives, which are a complete rip off aside from pk14 and you dont need cause tehy dont do jack shit, root rot wont ever be a concern.
right now im testing the boundaries of what roots will take, have 10plants in a open container with no aeration or cover- my roots are taking full light and covered in algae, but the they look fucking fantastic as do the plants. and guess what? even with temps at 72f no light and 88f with the light on...
no root rot.
lol, i need to post a pic cause its fucking hilarious considering all i do is pour my lucas formula into the container and monitor the ph once a day. kinda wish i did a side by side comparison with the open container vs a closed one with aeration, just to see the difference. i will attest that aeration helps, but even that is not a necessity. everytime i see all the algae and debris floating around, i like to call it my own chemical bio bucket.
El Toker
Member
I definitely want to see a picture, a few in fact over the next few weeks, to see how that works out. I've always assumed that algae is a bad thing in hydro and roots don't respond well to light. If those two assumptions, based on stuff I've read online, are wrong, it does open up a few interesting options.
Are you using chlorinated water?
damn. i just changed out the solution in the container, which is a aluminum turkey pan (i sincerely believe aluminum was once touted as 'dangerous' to plants, more hype machine propoganda) because so much algae was covering the roots i was concerned they might start to get smothered. after rinsing the EXCESSIVE ROOT formation in the sink, i found alas; this is far from the case.
im even tempted to say with no circulation, no aeration, or even a fucking cover to shield the roots from light, something is going on thats making the roots explode. ill take some pics of the set up and the roots from every plant, which is literally amazing. another thing i missed contesting in my earlier post is that you CAN have the water level all the way up to the base of the stalk, which in MY 8 years of growing encourages massive root formation. after about 2 weeks i drop the level to the last 25% of the container, reason being roots that formed are now reaching all the way down the container and into the solution, leaving some exposed near the top to absorb more oxygen. ill provide some photo evidence of this also.
im no scientist, but common sense tells me if a root was designed to grow underground for billions of years, which if anyone has a basic understanding of biology and how much bacteria and contaniments are contained in a handful of soil, they can endure anything that going to grow in my solution.
i vehemently denounce adding anything to my res aside from the nutes or pk13-14. that alone is the main culprit in root rot, all those fucking chemicals and sugars a root wasnt designed to grow in over he eons. yes, i know lucas is chemicals, but the exact chemicals most plants need to survive. whats hilarious is when people denounce chem ferts over 'organic' is that technically its the same thing.
A LOT of people have problems with root rot, newbies especially.and it can be infinitely frustrating stating out and having to deal with something that if not handled correctly can compound beyond belief. i know, cause ive been there. roots are the life of the plant and healthy roots mean 'effin awesome budz.
please forgive my statements if the sound argumentative- not my intentions at all. if it wasnt for overgrow and some very helpful people i woulda gave up growing a love you long time ago- bet that. im just trying to point out that what we think we know seriously hinders what we dont. i just read in full ''HIGH YIELD DEFOLIATION TECHNIQUE''and it was fascinating, and something that even though hasnt a definitive answer, has opened me up to something new. which you better believe, im all about experimenting. to me alone, that aspect of growing is what truly makes growing my beloved plant the best.
im even tempted to say with no circulation, no aeration, or even a fucking cover to shield the roots from light, something is going on thats making the roots explode. ill take some pics of the set up and the roots from every plant, which is literally amazing. another thing i missed contesting in my earlier post is that you CAN have the water level all the way up to the base of the stalk, which in MY 8 years of growing encourages massive root formation. after about 2 weeks i drop the level to the last 25% of the container, reason being roots that formed are now reaching all the way down the container and into the solution, leaving some exposed near the top to absorb more oxygen. ill provide some photo evidence of this also.
im no scientist, but common sense tells me if a root was designed to grow underground for billions of years, which if anyone has a basic understanding of biology and how much bacteria and contaniments are contained in a handful of soil, they can endure anything that going to grow in my solution.
i vehemently denounce adding anything to my res aside from the nutes or pk13-14. that alone is the main culprit in root rot, all those fucking chemicals and sugars a root wasnt designed to grow in over he eons. yes, i know lucas is chemicals, but the exact chemicals most plants need to survive. whats hilarious is when people denounce chem ferts over 'organic' is that technically its the same thing.
A LOT of people have problems with root rot, newbies especially.and it can be infinitely frustrating stating out and having to deal with something that if not handled correctly can compound beyond belief. i know, cause ive been there. roots are the life of the plant and healthy roots mean 'effin awesome budz.
please forgive my statements if the sound argumentative- not my intentions at all. if it wasnt for overgrow and some very helpful people i woulda gave up growing a love you long time ago- bet that. im just trying to point out that what we think we know seriously hinders what we dont. i just read in full ''HIGH YIELD DEFOLIATION TECHNIQUE''and it was fascinating, and something that even though hasnt a definitive answer, has opened me up to something new. which you better believe, im all about experimenting. to me alone, that aspect of growing is what truly makes growing my beloved plant the best.
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Are you using chlorinated water?
always and i mean ALWAYS r/o. granted, tap does have some elements a plant needs, ie sulfur, mag and so on, but there are other contaniments in chlorinated water that alter the nutrient profile, making the solution ''unreliable''.
a gallon of r/o water with 8ml of gh micro and 16mls of gh flora with 2.5ml of cal mag is all you need to grow any variety of marijuana. dont even adjust the ph; it will be a tad low at first. give it a day and it will swing up to 5.9 or 6.0
working on the pics right now, give me an hour ; )
always and i mean ALWAYS r/o. granted, tap does have some elements a plant needs, ie sulfur, mag and so on, but there are other contaniments in chlorinated water that alter the nutrient profile, making the solution ''unreliable''.
a gallon of r/o water with 8ml of gh micro and 16mls of gh flora with 2.5ml of cal mag is all you need to grow any variety of marijuana. dont even adjust the ph; it will be a tad low at first. give it a day and it will swing up to 5.9 or 6.0
working on the pics right now, give me an hour ; )
El Toker
Member
Not sure I agree with you there, I've never used r/o, but I nearly always get a decent harvest. I used to let the water stand for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to disperse, but I experimented and found that the chlorinated water seemed to help keep the roots clean. I am lucky in that I live in a soft-water area though, maybe that makes the difference.
Fresh from da tap.
Fresh from da tap.
Good chance to bust another myth here.
I have done propagation experiments with tap water vs rainwater.
Finding that, Chlorine is beneficial for rooting cuttings.
Most water companies have switched, or are about to switch, to Chloramine, because it stays active longer and is safer to store and handle..
I found that Chloramine, and it's breakdown products, are not just harmless, they are actually beneficial for propagation and DWC.
Disclaimer:
This is NOT the case with tropical fish.
It can kill them, right along with, the harmful bacteria, fungi, and nasty single-cell beasties.
Of course the rest of "what's in da water" can give one pause.
Mine is from volcanic wells, so I have to add CalMag.
I also have learned to test da PH every damn time I mix nutes, 'cause my tap PH can fluctuate by a full point!
(Long sad story)
I welcome discussion, and especially welcome first-hand knowledge.
Aloha Y'all,
Weezard, (the would be, myth slayer)
Fresh from da tap.
Good chance to bust another myth here.
I have done propagation experiments with tap water vs rainwater.
Finding that, Chlorine is beneficial for rooting cuttings.
Most water companies have switched, or are about to switch, to Chloramine, because it stays active longer and is safer to store and handle..
I found that Chloramine, and it's breakdown products, are not just harmless, they are actually beneficial for propagation and DWC.
Disclaimer:
This is NOT the case with tropical fish.
It can kill them, right along with, the harmful bacteria, fungi, and nasty single-cell beasties.
Of course the rest of "what's in da water" can give one pause.
Mine is from volcanic wells, so I have to add CalMag.
I also have learned to test da PH every damn time I mix nutes, 'cause my tap PH can fluctuate by a full point!
(Long sad story)
I welcome discussion, and especially welcome first-hand knowledge.
Aloha Y'all,
Weezard, (the would be, myth slayer)
