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Getting More Females

Ulysses

Member
This season, I had to 're-learn' a hard lesson. I became over confident perhaps and ignored the following good advice which had previously resulted in as much as a 75% female ratio from standard seeds...




Courtesy of Dutch Passion

From literature and from our own findings it appears that the growth of a male or a female plant from seed, except for the predisposition in the gender chromosomes, also depends on various environmental factors. Not only the origination of entirely male or female plants is partly affected by these environmental factors, the number of male and female flowers on a hermaphrodite plant is affected as well. The environmental factors that influence the sex of the plant (or the flower in the case of hermaphrodites), are among other things:

The quantity of nitrogen and potassium of the seedbed.
Humidity and moistness of the seedbed.
Level of temperatures.
Colour of the light used.
Length of daylight.

Stress, any form of stress, makes that more male individuals will originate from seed. Even the taking of cuttings from female plants may produce male or hermaphrodite cuttings.

To optimise the result, changes in one or more of the above-mentioned environmental factors for a certain period during growth, may be applied. During this time these environmental factors will deviate from the standard growing system for maximum harvest and quality, as described in nursery literature. The desired change(s) in the environmental factor(s) are started from the moment that the seedling has three pairs of real leaves (not counting the seed-lobes). This is the moment that male and/or female predisposition in florescence is being formed. After approximately two weeks the standard growing system can be reconverted to.

Of the 5 above-mentioned environmental factors the first three are the most practical:

1. Level of nitrogen and potassium of the seedbed: A heightening of the standard level of nitrogen makes for more female plants originating from the seeds. A lowering of the nitrogen level shows more male plants. A heightening of the level of potassium tends to show more male plants, while a lowering of the potassium level shows more female plants. A combination of a higher nitrogen level for the period of a week or two and a lowering of the potassium level is recommended.

2. Humidity and moistness of the seedbed: a higher humidity makes for an increase in the number of female plants from seed, a lowering for an increase in male plants. The same is valid for the moistness of the seedbed.

3. Level of temperatures: lower temperatures make for a larger number of female plants, higher temperatures for more male plants.

4. Colour of light: more blue light makes for female plants from seed, more red light makes for more male plants.

5. Hours of daylight: few hours of daylight (e.g. 14 hours) makes for more female individuals, a long day (e.g. 18 hours) makes for more male plants.

Now let's make some adjustments to that.. You can do whatever you want to your plants in seedling stage and early vegetative stage of growth (of course carefully)and it will not effect your final male to female ratios. The time when things should be near perfect is in or around the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth. This is the CRITICAL TIME for getting those female ratios up and up. I realized this clearly when noticing how some plants hermed because of problems that occurred around this period of the plants development on friends gardens and grow journales etc. . If the problems occurred before this time - no herms. So for this reason I asume that this is when the crucial gender selection is made by the plant. Now I believe that there's genders set in the seed however the environment has a massive impact on how this is expressed in the final phenotypic expression of the plants gender. There are probably many genes that govern this, however lets get into how to up these female ratios.

At the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth make sure that your plants are free from stress. No pests attacks, no fungi attacks, no mold, no irregular photoperiod, not underwatered, not overwatered, not pruned or topped, a cannabis friendly soil mix, not recently transplanted, no small pots. If have these basic growing conditions under control then we can move onto the real forces of female production from standard seeds.

N:p:K and nutrients. What this simply boils down to is that you have the right nutrients present in the right ratios. A nutrient formulation that has roughly equal parts N, P and K is great but if the P levels go up or the N levels go down you are starting to look at a flowering type food for cannabis. If you do this then your odds of producing mostly females is greatly decreased. Make sure that you get those N, P and K levels to almost run from higher to lower amounts from N to P and K. I have noticed that equal portions of N to P an K can help with the female ratios but the higher N is certainly more helpful. So around the 3rd of 4th week of growth make sure that the ratios are good and that P or K has not gone above the N and P or else more males will occur. Obviously this means to avoid overfeeding your plants around this time too.

Never let your medium dry out completely around the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth. If you make sure to water occasionally, but not to OVERWATER your plants, you will get those female ratios on the up and up. Overwatering or drying out too much of the medium will only produce more males. For consistent results in getting more females keeps those mediums moist, and remember moist not mean damped.

Humidity. Now this is the tricky one. High humidity levels only promote fungi and mold development and lowering humidity levels is the way to cure most of this rot but by keeping those humidity levels up in or around the 70 rH factor will help to produce more females. If you have a low humidity grow room then you should get to hold of a humidifier. Now high humidity levels like 70rH cause the medium to dry out a lot quicker so you got to keep this under control too. Keep those mediums moist and those rH levesl at 70. This will help to improve those female to male ratios. Again, getting them on the up and up.

If you run the 24/0 photoperiod then do not allow those temps to go anywhere above 85 unless you have an equatorial strain. 75 is the best but going a little lower is not a problem for helping those female ratios. If you can get in at around 65 then those females are going to be popping up all over the place. The problem with this is that some growers like to use the 18/6 photoperiod and when the lights are off the temps drop from around 65 to 50 and even less. Try not to be below 55 because this has the adverse effect on the plants producing more males than females. Again between 65 and 75 is where you want to be during the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth, the preference being 75.

Invest in a MH Light for vegetative growth. Dump the HPS bulb for flowering later. I have noticed that HPS lighting during vegetative growth simply sends those males to female ratios down. With MH lamps the females are everywhere. Invest in some MH HID lights. It makes all the difference in getting those females to show more often. This is worth repeating! MH Bulbs produce more females under optimal conditions especially if they are present during the 3rd and 4th week of vegetative growth. Surprising enough you can start seedlings under HPS and it will not have an effect on those female ratios. Again the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth is what is important here.


No stress during the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth. That is all there is to it. If you got your garden growing in optimal conditions without plant stress then the impressive 90% to 95% females start to emerge from standard seed packs (in my case, exactly at the end of the 4th week). I find that topping is best done at the second to third week of vegetative growth but that this is a little stressful and can lead to those female ratios dropping again. i personally Avoid topping or pruning on the 3th - 4th week if i'm looking to up the female count.

and well that's it.. lot of the info here i got it from friends, grow journals,myself and the internet, i just wanted to post all the little extra information in conjunction with what Dutch Passion uncovered have helped me and my friends to get female ratios considerably, Hopefully we all can see the same results too.
 

Ulysses

Member
Thanks...

Most people use a 16oz party cup to sprout their seedlings. I have found thats not enough soil volume for rapidly vegging strains like Mandala etc.

If you are lucky, right now, nurserys are dumping hundreds of unsold flowers- you can get a recycled plastic holding tray or four free for the asking. Ten 32oz cups per tray, you can get four trays under an eight tube T5 6500K (blue spectrum) light comfortably. This way you won't have cups tipping over and makes strain sorting and watering easier...

I use clear cups. If you leave the seedlings in the cups too long or if your veg cycle is not properly tuned, yes, you might grow some algae. I can monitor the root health in a clear cup and I am ready to transplant when the roots hit the bottom of the cup. Roots spinning out at the bottom of the cup for too long is stressful- don't let this happen. Be ready to up-pot!

I use earth worm castings as a strong component of my seedling soil mix. This provides the high nitrogen (like 1-0-0 NPK) environment the above article references. When the true leaves appear and I have several nodes going, I am not above hitting the developing seedlings with Liquid Karma or a diluted kelp solution...

I hope you will at least give this method a try- It has worked get for me... Good Luck!
 

VerdantGreen

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good info.

another factor is depth of the pot that you plant the seeds in. you want it to be more than 4" deep as seedlings with a longer taproot are more likely to become female.
 

ibjamming

Active member
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Hmmm...maybe all these "tricks for more females" is what gives people so many hermies.

Think about it...it should be 50/50. But you're encouraging a plant that was "supposed to be male" to grow female flowers. I would think this same plant could easily become a hermie as it goes back to what it "should" have been with just the slightest stress or even naturally.

I would think that the prudent gardener would want the opposite...doing EVERYTHING to make more males...the reasoning being, if it can be a female after all that...it's probably going to stay a female.

Has anyone tested this? I get about 50/50 and very few hermies.
 

VerdantGreen

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hey ib, i just posted about this elsewhere - environmental factors do influence sex determination in cannabis and some other plants. cannabis has very complex sex determination processes and most plants have the ability to become intersex/herm - which can be to their advantage in nature. you wont influence it that much with the methods listed above - maybe 10% or so - but enough to make it worthwhile.
 

ibjamming

Active member
Veteran
I'm sure they do...but we may be going about things the wrong way.

What's the LAST thing you want to see in mid flower? A hermie. So then...WHY are we "tricking" a "male" plant into throwing female flowers by giving it optimum conditions...only to have it turn hermie on us later when conditions may not be so optimal?

Why not go the other route if anti-hermie is what you're after? Stress for more males early, get 1/3 the normal female ratios...but those females are REAL females who "shouldn't" hermie on you...they've already survived stress and passed.

Does that make sense?

I think too many people are greedy...they just want a lot of girls. And that makes sense when you pay $100 for 10 seeds. But...I think that maybe shooting for more "girls" may not be the right strategy...you want the right KIND of "girl"...not a male pretending to be a girl that is going to shoot some pollen down the road.

It's just a thought...
 

VerdantGreen

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yeah i can see what you're driving at. personally i don really see full herms in mid flower. the only herms i get are early on when sex is manifesting itself. i see the odd male flower late on with some strains, especially if you over-ripen, when the sensi (environmental) condition prompts the plant to make a few late seeds.

take care

VG
 

Ulysses

Member
Thanks Verdant Green for putting a finer point on that fact- the larger cups are deeper with approx 6" of usable soil... The resulting seedlings will be larger and healthier while not taking up much more space...

The tap root 'tells' the plant whether or not conditions are suitable to complete a seed cycle...

I grow alot of Blueberry and have gotten a few hermies in my time- however, I feel that stressors like overwatering and rootbound conditions attribute to this- I don't fear a few herms, they usually don't produce viable pollen...

Try this method before knocking it... It's not new, I've had it in my notes for years...
 

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