Intermatic t104 questions, electrician help needed

[real ting]

I have a couple of questions about the T104 timers.

Currently there is a 20 amp 240v circuit for the lights. The circuit terminates at 4 6-20R receptacles. There will only be two 600w 240v hps ballasts run off it for now, with the possible addition of another couple 600w or a 400w down the line.

Before I have seen the T104 ran so that the wire coming from the breaker goes into the T104, then that goes out to the receptacles, so that you have timed receptacles. Is it possible to wire it so that the incoming wire on the T104 plugs into one of the 6-20R receptacles, and then two wires are hardwired on the outgoing side from the T104 to the ballasts?

The only problem I am seeing is that the wire would then be stranded instead of solid going into and out of the T104. Is that ok?

Is this a safe setup?

 

[rives]

If I am understanding you correctly, you want the receptacles to be unswitched (hot all the time), the timer downstream of the receptacles, and then hardwired into the ballasts. This would work fine as long as you aren't planning on plugging in enough equipment to exceed the breaker feeding it (actually staying at 80% of the rated amperage). The stranding of the wire isn't an issue. Use lugs. Stranded wire is used for virtually everything in an industrial setting because vibration will cause solid wire to work harden and then break.

 

[real ting]

If I am understanding you correctly, you want the receptacles to be unswitched (hot all the time), the timer downstream of the receptacles, and then hardwired into the ballasts. This would work fine as long as you aren't planning on plugging in enough equipment to exceed the breaker feeding it (actually staying at 80% of the rated amperage). The stranding of the wire isn't an issue. Use lugs. Stranded wire is used for virtually everything in an industrial setting because vibration will cause solid wire to work harden and then break.

Yeah, the total load right now would be 5 amps, on a 20 amp breaker.

Is this the kind of lugs you are talking about?
http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Gardner-Bender-GSLU-35-Copper-Mechanical-Lugs-3598984.html

or the insulated crimp on ring terminals?

 

[rives]

Either type of lug will work fine. If you use crimp-on lugs, you need to use a real crimper to install them - don't just try and pinch them down with pliers.

 

[delta9creations]

"Is it possible to wire it so that the incoming wire on the T104 plugs into one of the 6-20R receptacles, and then two wires are hardwired on the outgoing side from the T104 to the ballasts?" Lots of things are possible with electricity, including burning your house down. Use a mag-switch. And wire it the way it should be wired or you or a friend will get zapped.

"The only problem I am seeing is that the wire would then be stranded instead of solid going into and out of the T104. Is that ok?" Believe me, that's not the only problem. Don't run the load through the timer, use a mag-switch. That way when the timer trips it won't be trying to weld it's contacts together every time. Oh and btw it WILL succeed sooner or later.
"Is this a safe setup?" Depends on your definition of safe.

 

[rives]

The timer that he is referencing is typically sold as a water heater timer and is rated at 40 amps resistive or inductive, and 2 hp 120vac or 5 hp 240vac motor starting capability. The method of operating the contacts is irrelevant - the current rating and duty is what is important.