What is damaging my new growth?

[brightskies]

What STRAIN are you growing? This plant is a Critical+ (feminized Critical Mass from Dinafem Seeds) and some Dutchgrown strains
What was the establishing technique? Seed
What is the age of your plants? 42 days from sprout
What PHASE are the plants in? veg
What Technique are you using? Ebb & Gro buckets
What substrate/medium are you using? Hydroton
What is the Nutrient temperature? 74F
What Nutrient's are you using? Canna Aqua line and Magical cal/mag
What is the TDS/EC/PPM you are using? 1.7 incl cal/mag supplement
What is the pH of the "Tank"? 5.7-6.1
Are you sure your calibration is correct on your equiptment? yes
When was your last watering? today
When was your last feeding change? Changed reervoir 6 days ago
What size bulb are you using? 1000 hps
What is the distance to the canopy? 15”
What is your RH Factor? 50-55
What is the canopy temperature? 74
What is the Day/Night Temp? 71 in room 24/7 AC
What is the current Air Flow? Lights are air cooled, 3 oscillating fans in 10X12 room
Is the fan blowing directly at plants? From a distance
Is your water HARD or SOFT? Soft .14EC
Has plant been recently pruned, cloned off of or pinched no
Have any pest chemicals been used? No
Are plant's infected with pest's ?? maybe now they are, I don’t know


42 days since sprout- in veg. The new growth tips in a few places are looking like something is eating them or they are eating themselves. I think I see slight signs on a neighbor plant as well. I didn’t see any bugs under a 30X exam, but I did see tiny, irregularly shaped, black stuff on a couple of the leaves (poop?).

I’m growing in Ebb & Gro buckets for the first time and had a problem when I transferred the young ones into the buckets, under watering them, over fertilizing and really stressing them out. That was 2 weeks ago and everything has been growing vigorously since then.

Another strain that I'm growing showed cal/mag deficiencies so I added Magical (cal/mag) to my tap water reservoir at .7ml/gal a week ago. The deficiency started to improve aftre a few days, so I boosted the Magical to a total of 10ml/gal a couple of days ago. I also bumped up the EC by .15 to 1.7 including the Magical. Also, I recently increased my room temps from 67 to 71 because I learned better here.


Here's some pictures, any help is greatly appreciated! There is a link to the grow thread in my sig. Thank you.

 

[Love2herb]

Mine showed same symptoms, transpanted and been giving distilled water still no fix.

 

[ibjamming]

I don't grow that way...but it looks like Ph and wet feet...wilty, twisty, Mg deficiency caused by pH/bad roots. Are you sure pH is that low? Actually, it should be lower.

 

[unclefishstick]

that looks like micro nute problems,i want to say zinc from the twisted appearance of the leaves and it being new growth,but aside from that i dont see anything else in the sticky that jumps out as being wrong

 

[brightskies]

I've double-checked the calibration of my meter and it's right on.

During the last couple of weeks, my PH has not fluctuated much, and was rarely below 5.8. I've been logging it 2x daily.

Am I using too much cal/mag on top of my .14 EC tap water.? I started using the Magical about 5 days ago at .7ml/gal (1.o ml recommended for existing deficiency).

 

[brightskies]

I forgot to mention that I just started using a dechlorinator for my water about 7 days ago. I used it instead of letting my tap water sit for 24 hrs prior to using it.

 

[Phillthy]

also looks like it could be heat stress.

 

[brightskies]

I've double-checked the calibration of my meter and it's right on.

During the last couple of weeks, my PH has not fluctuated much, and was rarely below 5.8. I've been logging it 2x daily.

Am I using too much cal/mag on top of my .14 EC tap water.? I started using the Magical about 5 days ago at .7ml/gal (1.o ml recommended for existing deficiency).

 

[chaz]

ease up on the grow nutes.looks like too much nitrogen.i honestly thought that your ph is or was too high because ive been there. the leaves have that rams horn look.in your case looks like just the tips are pointing down,also showing what looks to be nute burn spots on the leaves.bigger,darker green leaves and short-stocky plants are usually signs that nitro is at its peak or over.please correct me if im wrong.im not sure if genetics have anything to do with it.i have not learned much on genetics YET.oh yes, brightskies,i have a question,do you have to use magi-cal every feeding?ive never done that.i used magi-cal before and there is a good amount of nitrogen in it.just my 3 cents. keep us posted!

 

[brightskies]

I'm seeing signs of bluing today on one of the plants from overfertilization? I'm still new. I made a new rez and lowered the EC by .2 to 1.40 , leaving out the calmag supplement for now. I set the PH at 5.3.

I have been leaving the PH at 5.8 pretty consistently. In my recent searching, I'm seeing that maybe I should be starting the res out at 5.3 and letting it drift on its own before correcting it once it reaches about 6.2. Not having this fluctuation can cause poor uptake of certain micronutrients. Is this true in hydro? What's your experience?

 

[chaz]

sorry so late,well im a soil grower,and also use a ppm meter.i thought that 5.3 is a little too low.but a friend mixes his hydro setup at 5.8 900 ppm and within 5 days he told me during veg the res will measure 6.3 or better letting him know that there still eating and he will back off the nitro for a week or 2 then he will hit them again.in that case he will know if he is overfeeding before they look overfed.he also told me that no matter how you grow the deficeincies and over fert. looks the same. you know,after my last reply i even check stitches problem solver just for some pics and it seems that there is too much nitrogen in your nute mix.i got him on the phone and he said to tell you to keep the ph at 5.6and give them a week with low levels of nitrogen.when the leaves start to stand up (new growth will be a little lighter shade of green)you will know thats the problem.just dont add anything else to fix it.last thing he says is your ec is too high right now,maybe they can handle it but its doing you no good and keep the fans on low.i cant type every word he said but its for your own good he loves to talk but he has been successful for many years and if you dont have bugs, your temps are where you said they are you should be good.i hope im not steering you wrong but with his instuctions i think that it cant or wont hurt your girls he really has a greenthumb,i just wish he knew more about soil.my question is after 1 week what are the readings of the water in the res?

 

[chaz]

i personaly thought your ph was too high but how can it be if your meter is spot on?do you have a friend that will let you trade meters for a day?hhmmm,im looking at the ec/ppm conversion and 1.7 ec is 850ppm,that is what i feed most types that i had,but i had a few that could not handle that much food and they were actually very healthy producers at no more than 650ppm.there i go again,maybe its genetics check around to see if there is anyone here who knows more about how much your strain likes to eat.maybe its more about gradually feeding rather than heavy feeding.my last grow was doing well at 1300ppm thats 2.6ec.white widow that was vegged for 7 weeks.what a mistake that was.

 

[brightskies]

Hey chaz! Lots of good info there- thank you very much. I'm new at this recirculating hydro "Ebb & Gro", but I've been doing a lot of reading. Some of the very respectable members here who are running this system advise setting the PH low and letting it drift to about 6 before correcting it.

I think the upward drift in the PH has something to do with the way in which the plants secrete something to change it. But, don't quote me- I'm new.

There is always a couple of inches of nutrient solution left in the outer buckets, and the roots sit in it between the 6 floods a day that I'm currently doing. This standing water always reads a few PH points higher than the reservoir.

I'm using Canna Aqua and they state on their feeding chart to use a PH between 5.2 and 6.2. The Canna "Aqua Paper" on their web site directs you to start a new reservoir at 5.3 PH and let it drift up. But, I'm getting a LOT of conflicting information regarding this subject from other well respected members here.

My PH has remained quite stable throughout the grow. In 3 weeks, I've only had to do 1 5 gal add back per week, PH'd to 5.8. I think that's a big part of the problem- I never really deviated from 5.8.

I'm seeing that "bluish" cast on one of my plants, that's over fertilizing isn't it?

Although new to me, the plants I'm growing are known to be good genetics.

CHEERS!

 

[chaz]

yes.ive been a member for only a short while but ive been reading for about 1.5 years.ive seen more conflicting advise here and even seen it turn into almost a war between good people that are just trying to help.its not a matter of how many posts you have or even how long you were a member.ive seen some ludacrist advise given by people who have over ten years as a member even people that came from o.g. and ive sworn up and down that they are purposly giving bad advise.but since ive been a member here i see nothing but people helping others to the full extent.the problem is that a lot of members,mostly new members,that just keep asking the same questions over and over and just dont listen.the fact is stitch,mr.greengenes,kodiak and a few others give advise that is right to the point.i honestly would ask you to find them and ask what they think.ive learned everything i need to know and im confident that if you just tone down the nitrogen and you are def. in the phos. department for sure.thats a fact unless you are in lockout.anything over5.8-5.9 in hydro they will not absorb phos.that means stay lower than that.if you can keep it between 5.3-5.7 that will be great.another thing if you are root bound phos. cant be absorbed,and if the roots are cold same situation.im told that 5.5-5.6 is perfect but i dont know how hard it is to keep it that way.my bud says that when his ph gets too high he will change half the res. and ph water or nute solution to 5.2-5.3 bringing the 6.0-6.2 down to that perfect range.but that is every 5-7 days.he uses the general hydro line by the 5 gal. jug.he burns through nutes just to keep it fresh.i know for a fact that is why he never has a problem.his brother says he wastes more nutes but his bro also has a problem every month.have your girls changed in any way?any recent pics?

 

[chaz]

i like the fact that you are spacing your paraghraphs.im getting a headache from proof-reading my own stuff.sorry!

 

[brightskies]

i like the fact that you are spacing your paraghraphs.im getting a headache from proof-reading my own stuff.sorry!

Hey Chaz! no problem, I'm just glad you're here.

Yes, the advice you're giving me is what I thought I had learned from all of my "filtered" learning from the forums.

I would agree with you and say that everyone I have come across in this forum has been very helpful and gracious. I'd be lost without IC Mag.

The plants appear to be doing better some 3 days later. I see no newly damaged growth tips. I'm seeing new growth that's a little lighter in color since I dropped the EC to 1.4 and made a new rez, leaving out the cal/mag supplement. I set the PH at 5.3 and it has gone up about .08 a day so far for three days. So, I think I'm safe for now.

The plant that was the most heavily affected is a little stunted compared to the others. I'm guessing it was the most sensitive strain of the several that I'm growing. The other plants are showing very slight signs of the same thing, mostly some small yellowish leaf spots.

You had asked me about the calmag. I only started using it on this last rez because the strain I'm growing is known to be a heavy cal/mag feeder. So, I had been adding it to my tap water in the nutrient solution. I stopped using it until I can confidently sort this current problem out.

I'll throw up some pics here when I update my journal in a few days.

Thank you very much Chaz! You've really helped me. I think I'm on the right track now.

Best of luck to you!

 

[chaz]

nice,and im glad we are all here!you know,i have used cal-mag in a few grows and on the first one i was using tap water and my tap has a lot of cal. to begin with.but now that i have an ro system i need the supplement.i wonder if i should be using it more often.if i really helped you, you are welcome. in the same turn,you helped me also to learn a little about hydro and its ph fluctuation.i hope to see some pics.take care of yourself and your ladies and best of luck right back at ya!

 

[Mr. Greengenes]

chaz is giving some good advice on PH, but I think ibjammin is closer with his 'wet feet' diagnosis. Then I read down to where the OP mentions 'six floods a day'. I don't personally run any water systems right now, but I've had some experience diagnosing other peoples, and I've noticed that many E&F and flow table designs are set to wet the roots too often, especially when the plants are large and need TONS of O2 at the roots. A local friend recently cleared up his problem (looked just like yours)on his flow table by reducing the number of daily floods. An easy experiment, maybe worth a try.