Flip Box and Electricty Question for new Med Room

[turbo14]

Hi Guys and Gals,

Had some questions about one of our new Med rooms that I am setting up. We will be using (2) GrowLab 290 Tents equipped with (4) 1000w Lights in Magnum 8" Hoods. We will be using a flip box to control our 4 ballast to power 2 rooms on flipflop light schedules. There will be a total of (4) 8" Can Fans that will need to be on 24/7 as well as (4-6) AP100 Pond Pumps running 24/7 as well as 4 irrigation pumps.

I am going to have a electrician come do all wiring and setup for dedicated outlets, but I am trying to kind of ball park what I am looking at as far as electric parts costs and what is needed. How many breakers will I need for my (2) 4000w rooms if they will never be on at the same time with flipflopped 12/12? Will two 30 AMPs do?

Also question for the flip box users out there.. Has anyone found a good one that is compatible with Lumateks or Quantums 1000w?

Thanks in advance
good vibes
turbo

 

[turbo14]

http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemMatrix.asp?ic=TIPBDPC075C&eq=&Tp=&MatrixType=2&sGroupCode=TIPBDPC075

Something Like this work? Says it supports up to 7500 watts on a 30 amp capacity?

 

[Tactician]

You can buy a flip for 4 ballasts, heck I can build you a custom flip. If you have a sparky and he's competent, he can build you a flip wth the neceesary lampcords, receptacles, timer, etc, all crimped, NEMA enclosure, etc, for about $300 and a loadcenter.

 

[Bigrick31]

your 4 1000w lights are going to draw 33.3 amps when sizing a breaker you want to only run 80% of its max amperage on that breaker so if your going to be pulling 33.3 amps youll need at a 42 amp breaker (which no one makes) So youll have to go up to the next standard size you may find a 45 amp breaker but most likely your going to have to go with a 50 amp breaker which requires you to run #8 sized wire. This is all assuming your running the lights a 120v if running at 240v a 30 amp breaker with #10 wire will do.

 

[chuckles]

your 4 1000w lights are going to draw 33.3 amps when sizing a breaker you want to only run 80% of its max amperage on that breaker so if your going to be pulling 33.3 amps youll need at a 42 amp breaker (which no one makes) So youll have to go up to the next standard size you may find a 45 amp breaker but most likely your going to have to go with a 50 amp breaker which requires you to run #8 sized wire. This is all assuming your running the lights a 120v if running at 240v a 30 amp breaker with #10 wire will do.

A 1000 watt ballast draws on average 9.5 amps in a 120v configuration. If its wired in a 240v configuration its approximately 4.75 amps per leg. If the lights are wired for 120v #10 wire is not sufficient. You would need to use a #8 in that configuration. You can however use a 10/3 setup for the 240v application.

 

[turbo14]

A 1000 watt ballast draws on average 9.5 amps in a 120v configuration. If its wired in a 240v configuration its approximately 4.75 amps per leg. If the lights are wired for 120v #10 wire is not sufficient. You would need to use a #8 in that configuration. You can however use a 10/3 setup for the 240v application.

Thank you guys very much for the useful information. Look's like the ballasts that I will be using to start the room will 4 1000w 240v Hydrofarm Magnetic Ballasts. I found a company that makes the 4 Lights switchable (horti-control) but they only offer it in 120v. I will email them and see if they have any other options.

As for running 240v on 1 30AMP with 4 lights at 4.75 Amps, I should be ok? Like I said, this will be dedicated to lights and pumps and fans only. Nothing else will be added to this particular circuit.

Thanks in advance guys/gals
turbo

 

[Bigrick31]

A 1000 watt ballast draws on average 9.5 amps in a 120v configuration. If its wired in a 240v configuration its approximately 4.75 amps per leg. If the lights are wired for 120v #10 wire is not sufficient. You would need to use a #8 in that configuration. You can however use a 10/3 setup for the 240v application.

If your 1000w ballast is drawing 9.5amps than its really inefficient. According to OHMS law a 1000w ballast should only draw 8.3 amps
1000/120 = 8.3. Also if you re read what I posted you will see I suggested a #8 for the 120v circuit and a #10 for the 240v circuit.

 

[Bigrick31]

Thank you guys very much for the useful information. Look's like the ballasts that I will be using to start the room will 4 1000w 240v Hydrofarm Magnetic Ballasts. I found a company that makes the 4 Lights switchable (horti-control) but they only offer it in 120v. I will email them and see if they have any other options.

As for running 240v on 1 30AMP with 4 lights at 4.75 Amps, I should be ok? Like I said, this will be dedicated to lights and pumps and fans only. Nothing else will be added to this particular circuit.

Thanks in advance guys/gals
turbo

The best thing you can do just to be extra sure is to take all the equipment you have and add up the amps each piece says it will draw. It should be clearly labeled on teh equipment the operating voltage and the amperage it draws. Add it all up and multiply that by 1.25 and that will tell you what size breaker you should run if you get an odd number like 41.33333 you just go up to the next standard sized breaker that is carried at your local home improvement store. Once you know the breaker size you can size your wire by going here
http://www.wiringhelp.com/electrical/electrical-safety/wire-type-and-sizing-considerations.html

 

[Sam the Caveman]

A 1000 watt magnetic ballast will draw 150 extra watts on top of the 1000 watts for the bulb.

A lot of people don't add the extra 150 watts when calculating circuit loads. If its just one bulb, not that big of a deal, but 8 or more, your looking at 1200 watts or more just for the ballasts.

Digital and electronic ballasts draw less, but I don't know how much less.

 

[what the]

If your 1000w ballast is drawing 9.5amps than its really inefficient. According to OHMS law a 1000w ballast should only draw 8.3 amps
1000/120 = 8.3.

the "1000 watts" is the output, not the input. As the poster above mentioned there is loss in the ballast. 10-15% When you add this in you end up with a higher current draw. The actual current draw.
so 1100W/120V = 9.17 amp.
Ohms law is an idealized equation that does not account for heat generated in the equipment. This waste heat is generated by the resistance in the circuitry and must be included in your load calculations.

 

[Tactician]

Thank you guys very much for the useful information. Look's like the ballasts that I will be using to start the room will 4 1000w 240v Hydrofarm Magnetic Ballasts. I found a company that makes the 4 Lights switchable (horti-control) but they only offer it in 120v. I will email them and see if they have any other options.

The reason they say the Horticontrol flip is only for 120V ballasts, is because they use 1 relay for 2 ballasts and 4 lights. This cheap way of manufacturing bonds the two neutral wires from both lights with the neutral lamp output. The neutral when wired for 240V carries current/voltage along the neutral, thus making the Horticontrol flip a shock hazard at 240V. If they used 1 relay for 1 ballast and 2 lights, there would be no shock hazard. This was brought to their attention, yet they have done nothing to fix the shock hazard. Shop around and you'll find a better flip.

 

[turbo14]

The best thing you can do just to be extra sure is to take all the equipment you have and add up the amps each piece says it will draw. It should be clearly labeled on teh equipment the operating voltage and the amperage it draws. Add it all up and multiply that by 1.25 and that will tell you what size breaker you should run if you get an odd number like 41.33333 you just go up to the next standard sized breaker that is carried at your local home improvement store. Once you know the breaker size you can size your wire by going here
http://www.wiringhelp.com/electrical/electrical-safety/wire-type-and-sizing-considerations.html

Thanks again everyone for chiming in! Sounds like I might be cutting it close on the 30 AMP breaker, I want to be extra sure that the circuit will never be close to overloading. Would a 50 AMP breaker be overkill? Will I have to add an additional sub panel or will my electrician be able to install it in my current box with spaces open? Again, thanks for all of the great info. I will be hiring a certified electrician to do all of my electric work, I will not be attempting any of this, I just love to know how things work

The reason they say the Horticontrol flip is only for 120V ballasts, is because they use 1 relay for 2 ballasts and 4 lights. This cheap way of manufacturing bonds the two neutral wires from both lights with the neutral lamp output. The neutral when wired for 240V carries current/voltage along the neutral, thus making the Horticontrol flip a shock hazard at 240V. If they used 1 relay for 1 ballast and 2 lights, there would be no shock hazard. This was brought to their attention, yet they have done nothing to fix the shock hazard. Shop around and you'll find a better flip.

Any suggestions on flips? I have tried searching the site and haven't found too much.. I will not be exceeding 4000w flipped in my two rooms powering 8 hoods.

Thanks
turbo

 

[chuckles]

If your 1000w ballast is drawing 9.5amps than its really inefficient. According to OHMS law a 1000w ballast should only draw 8.3 amps
1000/120 = 8.3. Also if you re read what I posted you will see I suggested a #8 for the 120v circuit and a #10 for the 240v circuit.

Do yourself a favor and actually hook an amperage meter up to your equipment and verify what it's drawing. Ohms law is a great tool for figuring baselines for amperage, but its by no means the tell all for actual field equipment installs. I hope you didn't take my post as offensive, because it wasn't meant that way.

 

[Bigrick31]

Do yourself a favor and actually hook an amperage meter up to your equipment and verify what it's drawing. Ohms law is a great tool for figuring baselines for amperage, but its by no means the tell all for actual field equipment installs. I hope you didn't take my post as offensive, because it wasn't meant that way.

Forgot about bulbs my bad ive been using LEDs for quite some time now.

 

[turbo14]

Soo.. would a 50 Amp breakers be over kill? Will I have to get an additional sub panel installed?

turbo

 

[sfzoo]

turbo,

i'm about to hire an electrician for 5kw in a garage. not sure what to tell him if he asks why i need a new breaker or what not.

i'd like to have my shit together when he comes by for the estimate. I've been reading all i can, but still reads like japanese to me.

any tips/advice you can offer when discussing work to be done with an electrician?

 

[what the]

If you can't build it yourself then you need to buy the switches and flip flop (whatever you need). Find a manufactured unit that matches your needs and get a breaker installed that matches the unit. Generally these have range or dryer plugs on them. Find out what type of plug is on the unit and have him install a receptacle for it. Tell him it is for a dryer, or a welder. He doesn't really care.

 

[Girth]

Hey Turbo,
I run 4x 1000w hps ballasts (magnetic) on a 30 Amp outlet @ 240v and haven't had an issue ever. In my opinion, a 50amp breaker is overkill, unless you plan on running an a/c unit or adding more lights to the circuit later. Peace

 

[turbo14]

Hey Turbo,
I run 4x 1000w hps ballasts (magnetic) on a 30 Amp outlet @ 240v and haven't had an issue ever. In my opinion, a 50amp breaker is overkill, unless you plan on running an a/c unit or adding more lights to the circuit later. Peace

Thanks for the input Girth, I'm thinking that I will be fine with the 30amp as well. Thank you guys

turbo