DWC growers - HELP~!!!

[pftek]

I need a way to cover a large DWC - what can I use that's cheap and works?

I was thinking sheet metal? Plexiglass? Wood (can I paint it)???

Worried about it getting wet and the repercussions from getting water on it or humidity over 2 months.

Maybe use chicken wire and place net pots in it and then put a tarp over it (to block the light from the water)??

 

[Haps]

Use plywood and seal the shit out of it.

 

[Zen Master]

why is there water outside your DWC bucket?

 

[pftek]

why is there water outside your DWC bucket?

there are no buckets. think of a kiddie pool. it's like that. i want to put a piece of something on top to keep the pots and light out of the water.

something strong enough to hold up the plants.

cant figure it out.

 

[Dreamz_Of_Green]

nice idea i would use plexi glass or something with 2x4 going across the top as supports along the outside edge of the pool

 

[extreegrowerrr]

nice idea i would use plexi glass or something with 2x4 going across the top as supports along the out edge of the pool

agreed

 

[Dreamz_Of_Green]

agreed

or buy 2 kiddie pools turn one upside down and cut holes for potters then place one on top of the the other wallah u got a perfect fit and a lid drill some holes use some thick zipties maybe cut a few slits in the lids sides so air can pass threw your root zone then id use a water pump and a dripper at each plant killing two birds with one stone as u wouldnt have to worry bout lil plants and making dissolved oxygen as the drip at each plant would drop and hit the water a create it for u or add more with airpumps

instead of 2x4s i would use PVC and make a frame now that i think of my post above

 

[MaddsVonF]

1 inch of foam insulation under the star board. Taped edges. No light leaky.

Better use marine grade plywood if you want it to last.

 

[someotherguy]

get yourself a piece of plywood big enough to cover your
res and you don't need anything thicker that maybe 1/2 inch,
maybe even 1/4.

anyway, cut to size and then mark out your holes for your
pots and then cut them out.

after you get it cut out, go to the roofing department at
Lowes or Home Depot, or even any good hardware store,
and get yourself some 'elastomeric' paint.

there is more than one brand so look for that word on
the label, it means it contains rubber and it's made to seal
roofs, on trailers and other stuff.

in any event, it will seal the wood so the water won't
ruin it on you, plus it's cheap at like $15.00 a gallon.

an added plus is it's white so it'll reflect light up.

here's an article that mentions the paint i'm talking about,
hopefully, this will help.

peace, SOG

[FONT=Verdana, sans-serif]
Foylon:

A more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate. Foylon is resistant to most solutions, won't tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.

A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost. It has the ability to reflect about 95% of the light and approximately 85% of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in conjunction with folyon.

A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier nd reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it. If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.

Mylar:

A highly reflective polyester film that comes in varying thickness, the most common being 1 and 2 mm thick. The 2mm thick mylar while not quite as durable as the foylon, is fairly rugged. The 1mm thick mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is quite difficult without damaging it in the process. Both types of mylar are able to reflect approximately 92-97% reflective, giving it the potential to be more reflective than foylon, but because foylon is more easily cleaned without damaging it as well as it being harder to crease, foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective. Important to note is that mylar reflects radiant heat energy just as well as foylon (around 85%), so proper ventilation is necessary if mylar is used in your grow room. Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. The 1mm thick mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls.

C3 anti-detection film:

A specialized type of mylar that exhibits the same properties as the 2mm thick mylar, but in addition to reflecting approximately 92-97% of the light, it also is 90% infrared proof, making your grow room all but invisible to IR scanning. This can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

Flat white paint:

Self explanatory; a great option for large grow rooms or for people who are interested in a low maintenance wall. Flat white paint has the ability to reflect between 75-85% of the light, and does not create hotspots. Adding a fungicide is recommended when painting.

Glossy and eggshell whites not reflect light as efficiently as flat white. Semi-gloss paint for example, only has the ability to reflect between 55-60% of the light. Also important to remember when using paint is that any smears or blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is so care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls. Titanium white paint is very reflective; however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its high cost.

Elastomeric paint (info by furun)

A rubberized roofing paint with 90% reflection. Good for growboxes. Mildew resistant. Highly reflective.

Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating ~ $15.00 (1 Gallon)

Ultra high reflectivity
Forms a rubber-like blanket that expands and contracts
Adheres to almost any surface (very good on wood and metal)
Available @ [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, sans-serif]Lowe's Home Improvement: Buy Kitchen Cabinets, Paint, Appliances & Flooring[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, sans-serif]

White/Black plastic (also known as panda plastic or "poly"):

"Poly" is useful if you are setting up a temporary grow room or don’t want to damage the walls. Poly is easily cleaned.

The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark. The white side is 75-90% reflective. Choose a 6 "mill" thickness of poly for maximum light blockage and duribility.

If this plastic is put too close to the light, you will obviously melt it so be careful!. Panda plastic does not create hotspots. Poly can be attached to the walls by using carpenter’s nails or using tape glue or similar means. This can be used as a cheap alternative to mylar if painting your grow room is out of the question.

Polystyrene Foam Sheeting (more commonly known as Styrofoam):

This is excellent for harsh environment growrooms (your attic for example), provided you have a good ventilation system and a way to keep the temperatures from rising too high (an a/c unit or similar) as it is an excellent insulator.

It is also a great material for use in a temporary setup or for use as a "travelling reflector" on a light mover, where weight is a concern. It is approximately 75-85% light reflective so it is comparable to using a flat white paint. Foam will not create hot spots. Rigid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a free standing wall or can be taped, glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally being the most successful method.

Emergency Blankets:

These are ultra thin polyester blankets that are sold in most camping stores and are constructed of a single layer of polyester film that is covered with a layer of vapor deposited aluminum.

It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin. Holding it between you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with, this coupled with the many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant amount of it reflectivity. It is very easily creased as well which also detracts from its ability to reflect light. And while it is reflects nearly 90% of radiant heat energy, it is only able to reflect around 70% of the light.

The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is very cheap and therefore easily replaced. Emergency blankets can create hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps exist between it and your supporting wall. The easiest way to attach this is to use tape (Aluminum or metal tape is recommended), as it tears very easily once it is cut or punctured.

Aluminum Foil:
Aluminum foil is no more than 55% reflective - if used, make sure that the dull side is the one that is used to reflect the light. When it becomes creased its reflectivity is even lower (around 35%.) It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting. Attaching this to walls is a pain and usually using aluminum tape or glue is the best way. This should only be used as a last resort, and even then its usefulness is questionable.[/FONT]

 

[MaddsVonF]

or you could try,,,

or you could try,,,

going to lowes, 2 inch styrofoam insulation and aluminum tape.

I love that stuff,,,,

hope this helps



ftp

 

[pftek]

maddsvonf - whoa! cool stuff. How does it react to water? or did you duct tape the styrofoam?

how do you think the 4 feet by 8 feet would hold up? would it hold up several plants? or would it snap? would it get soggy with water?

 

[MaddsVonF]

maddsvonf - whoa! cool stuff. How does it react to water? or did you duct tape the styrofoam?

how do you think the 4 feet by 8 feet would hold up? would it hold up several plants? or would it snap? would it get soggy with water?

Get creative.

Use some pvc tubes to build a support frame. Like in pic one. Just don't install the sprinkler heads.

I tape em top, bottom and side's to keep the light out.

The star board plywood is a marine use plywood. The rtek is closed cell so no water absorbs into it.

16 plants for vegging in the big tub. The girls get transplanted into coolers for flower, 2 girls per cooler. Keeps the water temp between 63 and 65 for days on end.

Hope it helps.


ftp

 

[MAZEinaHAZE]

paint my ass.............get the plywood and a box of plastic wrap...6mm. its like any plastic rez lid, but you can create your own dimensions.

get the plywood to the desired size....wrap with plastic, using a staple or nail gun. done !!

PS -- one helping hint. place a piece of cardboard to the plastic, then insert staple/nail. this will help it not rip threw over time !!

cheap, simple,yet very effective !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Airnut]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHBhyqowSEc
Use this foam?? Dont remmember the english word for it, sorry!

Airnut

 

[pftek]

paint my ass.............get the plywood and a box of plastic wrap...6mm. its like any plastic rez lid, but you can create your own dimensions.

get the plywood to the desired size....wrap with plastic, using a staple or nail gun. done !!

PS -- one helping hint. place a piece of cardboard to the plastic, then insert staple/nail. this will help it not rip threw over time !!

cheap, simple,yet very effective !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What about condensation? wouldn't the plastic keep condensation on it?

 

[Haps]

Styrofoam that large will break when any pressure is put on it. It can work, but you gotta be gently with it. Works ok for tubblers, but not ideal.
H

 

[MAZEinaHAZE]

condensation within a DWC container ( rez ) is totally normal, even in lower temps. the plastic tarp ( sheet / roll ) will protect the wood from rot, as well as keep all the water within the rez creating a nice humid atmosphere below. the roots that are NOT submerged will LOVE it !